Timing is set to 32掳 advanced and that's around 10掳 at idle.
As mentioned above main jet is 130.
I've changed one of the jets on the RHS to a 55. Then swapped them. No real difference either way.
Can anyone advise what the problem is?
Smiley 馃槑
BRUTUS 路
Do you mean it will not run at idle speed? Or it can't idle: ie. it runs above 1000rpm all the time?
Maybe one of the jets has been plugged to act as a 'blank' to fill the hole where a e-mag cut-off idle jet was.
The idle jet should be the one to the left as shown in your pic....?
Joel 路
The second Idle jet on the 45degree angle is the aux power jet.
If you're getting a hesitation on acceleration in the mid range you need to go bigger with it.
I ran a few of these on 1600 twinports, those sizes are still for the stock 1300tp, it should still Idle slightly though.
I'll check when I'm in the shed what sizes I went with for a 1600DP
It took alot of trial and error but I got it set perfect from idle to redline.
Smiley 路
BRUTUS wrote:Do you mean it will not run at idle speed? Or it can't idle: ie. it runs above 1000rpm all the time?
Maybe one of the jets has been plugged to act as a 'blank' to fill the hole where a e-mag cut-off idle jet was.
It will not idle, ie stalls.
Both the jets are opened, I've pulled them and cleaned them, blown them out and blown both circuits in the carby out.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Joel wrote:The second Idle jet on the 45degree angle is the aux power jet.
If you're getting a hesitation on acceleration in the mid range you need to go bigger with it.
I ran a few of these on 1600 twinports, those sizes are still for the stock 1300tp, it should still Idle slightly though.
I'll check when I'm in the shed what sizes I went with for a 1600DP
It took alot of trial and error but I got it set perfect from idle to redline.
Thanks Joel, it's good to get a straight answer. At one stage there I did have it idling, only just. It was right on the verge of stalling for a little while before it eventually did.
Smiley 馃槑
Joel 路
Just had a look the same carb I've got on a bog stock 1600Dp with 4into1 header and quite pack muffler has a G60 in the power jet (left one) and a G55 in the Idle jet on the right.
That took alot of experimenting to get right but it was dead smooth after all that though
I would say it had a 135 main jet too.
Smiley 路
Thanks.
I'll have to buy some larger jets.
Smiley 馃槑
BRUTUS 路
The one on the left (at 45deg angle to body) is the idle jet, original size g52.5.
The one on the right (at 90deg angle to body) is the aux. fuel nozzle, orig. size g45.
So the idle is the one one the left.
The main should have x130 originally.
The air correction jet/emulsion tube should have been 170W (maybe that is what appears to be 110 as seen from top?).
The cut-off idle solenoid (or its plug) should be on the other side of the unit. You need to set the idle bypass (large) and mixture screws (small) like on the 30Pict3.
Seems this setup was originally for a 1300 engine. The main will need to be at least about 135 probably.
Smiley 路
Joel wrote:a G60 in the power jet (left one) and a G55 in the Idle jet on the right.
BRUTUS wrote:The one on the left (at 45deg angle to body) is the idle jet, original size g52.5.
The one on the right (at 90deg angle to body) is the aux. fuel nozzle, orig. size g45.
So who is right??
I looks like all my jets might be slightly too small.
And it does have the cutoff solenoid on the LHS of the carby.
Smiley 馃槑
Joel 路
Pffft I'm always right 馃お
joke, Brutus could be, to be honest I've never looked into it, I just ASSuMEd it was the idle jet on the right as thats stock postion on all other carbs and when I was having stumbling on acceleration at revs playing with the left jet sorted it, where as the right jet was more down low.
There's very little technical literature on these carbs out there, if you mention 31pict-3 on thesamba you will get crazy orrrstralian no such carb exists, but then they say that with 1300DP engines too.
Smiley 路
Ok.
I'm still having the same problem.
Have just rebuilt the carby. Cleaned everything out completely.
Jets are as follows -
Main - 135
Idle - 55
Power Correction - 60
Air Correction - 110Z
Car still will not idle. It runs great as soon as the revs are up a little about idle, sounds very strong and revs smoothly. Have yet to take it for a drive. As soon as the revs drop down to idle it just cuts out.
Dizzy is 009, what should the timing be set to?
Could this cause it not to idle?
Any other ideas what the problem could be?
Smiley 路
Just went and double checked the timing.
Is around 32-34 degrees at full advance.
Drops back to around 10 at idle before stalling.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Is the idle with these carbys adjusted with the stop screw on the throttle arm like the early carbs?
Or is it adjusted with the bypass screw like the later carbs?
Or is it a bit of both?
I'm really at a loss as to what's not working.
Smiley 馃槑
matberry 路
Throttle stop screw is ONLY for fast idle adjustment ie. while the choke is on. It should be set initially at about 1 turn in after it engages the fast idle cam when in the running position. Back the screw right out until you have an air gap to the choke fast idle cam, then screw it in to touch and then +1 turn. Idle speed is adjusted at the air bleed/bypass screw (the big one), then set mixture and reset speed then mixture again.
matberry 路
Didn't you have the pop-rivet in the throttle butterfly hole? Is it still there?
The main problem IMO is the 009....get rid of it or the 34pict.
Smiley 路
I couldn't get the 34 to run, tried two different carbies and 3 different dizzys.
So I ditched that idea and went back to the 31PICt-3 and 009 Dissy off my 1300 that died. I've never had a single problem with tuning or running this pair. But now it's a no idle.
So I caved and just rebuilt a Bosch 014 Mechanical/vacuum advance dizzy and am about to tried that.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
What timing should this Dizzy be set to??
I can't seem to get it to run right at all now.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Ok.
I give up now.
I've tried every single combination and every suggestion and idea that anyone has put to me.
The piece of shit still won't run.
Anyone want to buy a Baja? $50 and you can have it, I'm over this shit.
Smiley
matberry 路
You may have a manifold leak, Mr LookoutorImayjustburnmybajaSmiley.......
Smiley 路
matberry wrote:You may have a manifold leak, Mr LookoutorImayjustburnmybajaSmiley.......
Nope, new boots and new gaskets.
Plus that would cause it it idle up rather than not idle wouldn't it?
Smiley
matberry 路
not if there's not enough fuel to idle up
why all the dissy changing?
Timing around 10* initial/30* total can't go wrong.
Just cause you put in new parts doesn't mean there's no leak, check with an aresol can of carb cleaner or the like.
Going out now... good luck
pod 路
And it does have the cutoff solenoid on the LHS of the carby.
Smiley 馃槑
is this still working??
Smiley 路
pod wrote:
And it does have the cutoff solenoid on the LHS of the carby.
Smiley 馃槑
is this still working??
Yep. Clicks on and off like it's supposed to.
Smiley
Smiley 路
matberry wrote:why all the dissy changing?
Timing around 10* initial/30* total can't go wrong.
Just cause you put in new parts doesn't mean there's no leak, check with an aresol can of carb cleaner or the like.
Going out now... good luck
I have tried a stock 009, a modified 009 with the flat spot removed, a brand new SVDA and the old mech/vac dissy I rebuilt this arvo.
With the mech/vac dissy I just tried I set the total advance at 30 and then it dropped off to below 0掳 and stalled. So it had over 40掳 advance? This isn't right.
Smiley
matberry 路
Set vac total with vac disconnected, check idle solenoid with compressed air while powered
Smiley 路
matberry wrote:check idle solenoid with compressed air while powered
How do I do this?
And too late on the vac setting.
I've put the original stock 009 back in.
This carby and this dizzy were on my 1300 and ran perfectly, never had any dramas.
I also just leak checked the manifold and carby, no leaks.
What else could it be?
Valves? Fucked leads? Plugs?
Smiley
matberry 路
Smiley wrote:
matberry wrote:check idle solenoid with compressed air while powered
How do I do this?
Smiley
Take out the solenoid jet, hook 12v to the terminal, earth the body (it should click same as when it's installed), and blow compressed air through the jet.
May have been blocked and this is the only way to check/clear it.
Smiley 路
matberry wrote:
Smiley wrote:
matberry wrote:check idle solenoid with compressed air while powered
How do I do this?
Smiley
Take out the solenoid jet, hook 12v to the terminal, earth the body (it should click same as when it's installed), and blow compressed air through the jet.
May have been blocked and this is the only way to check/clear it.
The solenoid is just a plunger on the LHS of the carby. All it does is seal against a seat and cut the fuel off to prevent runon. There are no holes in it.
I swapped in another solenoid, it made no difference.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Does the hole in the butterfly plate have to be blocked the same as a 34PICT-3???
It never needed to be on my 1300, but at this point I'm willing to try anything.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Ok. Here's all the info.
Engine is a 1600 Twinport AD case.
Valves have been checked and are set to .006"
Plugs are new gapped to 0.028"
Leads are new.
Coil is a red GT40
Distributor is a stock 009.
Running electronic ignition.
Timing is set to 10掳 at idle and 32掳 at full advance.
Carby is a 31PICT-3 with
Main - 135
Idle - 55
Power Correction - 60
Air Correction - 110Z
Choke is not operational so I've set it to stay open.
Fuel cutoff solenoid is connected and working correctly, have checked with the engine off and while running.
Have triple checked the manifold and carby for vacuum leaks, there are none.
Engine starts and runs, but only if you hold the throttle. Otherwise it just stalls. Acts like the cutoff solenoid is not functioning, just stalls out.
Can ANYONE suggest anything else that it could be before I burn it to the ground??
Smiley 馃槵
Joel 路
Silly question but are you dead sure it's fuel?
could be weak spark, especially with a GT40 door stop.
I've had one do the same thing, I swore it was a carb problem, rough/no idle but swapped the GT40 for aother coil bam problem gone.
got another coil to try?
68AutoBug 路
Hi
sounds like the idle jet is blocked...
or can be the coil as Joel suggested..
are You sure the idle electromagnetic cutoff valve is actually NOT stuck closed..???
LEE
PS: check the High tension lead to the coil.... silicone ones can break VERY easily.....
try a VW wire HT lead in to check if You are getting all the spark... wire leads don't break..
Smiley 路
Joel wrote:Silly question but are you dead sure it's fuel?
could be weak spark, especially with a GT40 door stop.
I've had one do the same thing, I swore it was a carb problem, rough/no idle but swapped the GT40 for aother coil bam problem gone.
got another coil to try?
Tried a different coil. No difference to problem.
68AutoBug wrote:Hi
sounds like the idle jet is blocked...
or can be the coil as Joel suggested..
are You sure the idle electromagnetic cutoff valve is actually NOT stuck closed..???
LEE
PS: check the High tension lead to the coil.... silicone ones can break VERY easily.....
try a VW wire HT lead in to check if You are getting all the spark... wire leads don't break..
Cutoff solenoid is operating as it should, I'm sure.
All the leads are brand new, I bought them this morning.
Any more brain busters?
The only other thing that I can think of is the electronic ignition. About to throw the points back in it and try.
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Joel wrote:could be weak spark, especially with a GT40 door stop.
Why are these no good?
It's not one of the crappy round ones.
It's one of these
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Points made no difference. 馃槵馃槵
Smiley 馃槵
68AutoBug 路
Smiley wrote:Does the hole in the butterfly plate have to be blocked the same as a 34PICT-3???
It never needed to be on my 1300, but at this point I'm willing to try anything.
Smiley 馃槑
No...
I don't think that would fix this problem..
You haven't put any OLD fuel into Your tank???
Fuel doesn't last long these days before going off...
and causing problems..
have You tried adjusting the timing??
LEE
LEE written at 2pm..
68AutoBug 路
Smiley wrote:
Joel wrote:could be weak spark, especially with a GT40 door stop.
Why are these no good?
It's not one of the crappy round ones.
It's one of these
....................................................................................
Hi
the points should be GB534 ?
The round coils are oil filled for cooling....
GT40 s have a lower resistance than the other Bosch coils..
round ones.. nothing wrong with the round ones either,,,
IMHO..
I Hope You find the problem...
did you clean the points before using them with petrol or alcohol etc.. they do have a protective coating on them.
Condensor OK... they should be replaced every year or so...
You have the coil connected the correct way... many people
who have owned VWs for many years still get them mixed up at times.. I always check 3 times.... lol
I bought a beetle a few years ago that stopped at every intersection.. [foot off pedal]
I took it home and tuned it up..
and no problems after that...
its probably something easy?? once You find it...
cheers
LEE
PS: sometimes New parts aren't as good as the old parts..
the old parts have been tested and DO work... lol
Smiley 馃槑
Joel 路
GT40 coils just seem to have high fail rate, I;ve had 2 die on me, a couple of freinds the same and just the cases I;ve read on forums.
Overall consensus seems to be the solid state ones you bought at the worst but give it try, I always had a spare coil under the back seat in my bugs.
I would be checking the resistance of it though, most electronic ignitions are very fussy on what the resistance is, 99% of VW kits are designed for 3ohm coils.
Also as Lee mentioned 529 points are designed for the late twin port dissys with the shorty cap (73-76).
the early ones and all 009s use 534 points.
BRUTUS 路
Smiley,
I had a 1600 bug with a 34PICT-4 that had similar symptoms. It all worked/checked out well, except it would NOT idle. I cleaned it out, dismantled everything, etc., but still the same. The idle mix screw and the bypass screw were not doing anything. Then I got Really Annoyed and with the engine running fast (well above idle), removed the idle MIXTURE SCREW, then revved it hard while squirting carb cleaner (using spray can with small plastic tube) in the hole. Then put back MIX SCREW; then removed the (large) bypass screw, with the engine running, then squirted in cleaner as before. It fixed it. (Didn't remove the idle JET, but that might have been next.) There was obviously a blockage that couldn't be got at or seen... Take care...
Smiley 路
68AutoBug wrote:
Smiley wrote:Does the hole in the butterfly plate have to be blocked the same as a 34PICT-3???
It never needed to be on my 1300, but at this point I'm willing to try anything.
Smiley 馃槑
No...
I don't think that would fix this problem..
You haven't put any OLD fuel into Your tank???
Fuel doesn't last long these days before going off...
and causing problems..
have You tried adjusting the timing??
LEE
LEE written at 2pm..
I drive the car everyday, if the fuel has gone of in 3 days I'd be worried!!
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
Joel wrote:GT40 coils just seem to have high fail rate, I;ve had 2 die on me, a couple of freinds the same and just the cases I;ve read on forums.
Overall consensus seems to be the solid state ones you bought at the worst but give it try, I always had a spare coil under the back seat in my bugs.
I would be checking the resistance of it though, most electronic ignitions are very fussy on what the resistance is, 99% of VW kits are designed for 3ohm coils.
Also as Lee mentioned 529 points are designed for the late twin port dissys with the shorty cap (73-76).
the early ones and all 009s use 534 points.
That's just an old picture, the only one I have of the coil, back when I had a vac dizzy, that's what the points are for.
I did try a different coil, and it made no difference at all.
If the GT40 coils are no good what SHOULD I be running? Cause I will just go and buy one.
Was thinking of getting a Pentronix set of electronic points and matching coil. Is this a worthwhile investment?
Smiley 馃槑
Smiley 路
BRUTUS wrote:Smiley,
I had a 1600 bug with a 34PICT-4 that had similar symptoms. It all worked/checked out well, except it would NOT idle. I cleaned it out, dismantled everything, etc., but still the same. The idle mix screw and the bypass screw were not doing anything. Then I got Really Annoyed and with the engine running fast (above idle), removed the idle jet, then revved it hard while squirting carb cleaner (using spray can with small plastic tube) in the hole. Then put back jet; then removed the (large) bypass screw, with the engine running, then squirted in cleaner as before. It fixed it. (Didn't remove the idle mix screw, but that might have been next.) There was obviously a blockage that couldn't be got or seen... Take care...
I will try this next chance I get.
Will it run if I pull the jets out?
Smiley 馃槑
68AutoBug 路
Smiley wrote:
Joel wrote:GT40 coils just seem to have high fail rate, I;ve had 2 die on me, a couple of freinds the same and just the cases I;ve read on forums.
Overall consensus seems to be the solid state ones you bought at the worst but give it try, I always had a spare coil under the back seat in my bugs.
I would be checking the resistance of it though, most electronic ignitions are very fussy on what the resistance is, 99% of VW kits are designed for 3ohm coils.
Also as Lee mentioned 529 points are designed for the late twin port dissys with the shorty cap (73-76).
the early ones and all 009s use 534 points.
That's just an old picture, the only one I have of the coil, back when I had a vac dizzy, that's what the points are for.
I did try a different coil, and it made no difference at all.
If the GT40 coils are no good what SHOULD I be running? Cause I will just go and buy one.
Was thinking of getting a Pentronix set of electronic points and matching coil. Is this a worthwhile investment?
Smiley 馃槑
i BELIEVE THE PERTRONIX IS Great and well worth the money..
You will need a HIGH Resistance coil...
which is really just a standard coil..
[to fit what????} I just got people [on ebay] to measure the resistance in Ohms of the coils they had for sale...
The answer will be approximate unless they have a really good multimeter...
so a 3 ohm coil May measure 2 ohms or 4 ohms ???
but many measure BELOW 1 ohm.... which isn't good for Pertronix.. or some other ignition systems..
LEE
PS: Good to know what You were doing with those points etc...
Joel 路
Smiley wrote:
Joel wrote:GT40 coils just seem to have high fail rate, I;ve had 2 die on me, a couple of freinds the same and just the cases I;ve read on forums.
Overall consensus seems to be the solid state ones you bought at the worst but give it try, I always had a spare coil under the back seat in my bugs.
I would be checking the resistance of it though, most electronic ignitions are very fussy on what the resistance is, 99% of VW kits are designed for 3ohm coils.
Also as Lee mentioned 529 points are designed for the late twin port dissys with the shorty cap (73-76).
the early ones and all 009s use 534 points.
That's just an old picture, the only one I have of the coil, back when I had a vac dizzy, that's what the points are for.
I did try a different coil, and it made no difference at all.
If the GT40 coils are no good what SHOULD I be running? Cause I will just go and buy one.
Was thinking of getting a Pentronix set of electronic points and matching coil. Is this a worthwhile investment?
Smiley 馃槑
It seems to be luck of the draw with GT40 coils, with all the failures I mentioned there are the exceptions, dads has been on for 10 years now, bought the same time as mine in 2001.
his is still going, mine died in 2005
Although died isnt the right word as it still operated but was doing what you are experiencing.
Would make it run ok at revs but would barely idle roughly or not at all.
Had me puzzled why it ran fine at revs especially under load though which is why I didnt suspect a dud coil it at first.
The other I had die on me was in my Celica, it would cut out when it got hot then would restart after 15 mins of cooling down, run for a bit......rinse and repeat.
As to what to run, piece of string type question.
people rave about Bosch blue for VWs, never used one myself
If pertronix make their coils as good as their electronic ignitions I'd be going for it.
I've had a couple of Hanshin coils which came on bugs I've owned which I suspect were probably OEM coils off jap cars which worked well.
BRUTUS 路
Sorry Smiley, mixed up the Mixture Screw and the Idle Jet. Have corrected text (in capitals) in original post. The problem was apparently behind one of the 2 screws. I don't think I removed the jet, but it was a long time ago, so not sure. I kept the revs up (may have propped open the throttle lever; and removed screws quickly, spray can at the ready... revved it hard when spraying in. It made plenty of fumes.