I've grown up with VW's from the get go & my dad still has the family 74 bug for as long as I can remember (I think 27 years) & both mum & dad have owned beetles, kombi's, golfs for the rest of the time too.
I've always wanted to get into an early aircooler, but was basically thrown into the watercoolers from my very first car.
I've had watercoolers for daily drivers from day one too. Mainly a modified 79 Mk1 & my current turbo'd 76 Mk1 which I'm selling. Both these cars have been absolutely awesome to me & I've never been let down by them & have never had any drama's or 2nd thoughts about doing long distance driving incl the 600+km a week for the daily work grind. I suppose some people would call it stupid or "hardcore" considering they don't have any creature comfort apart from a heater! (no radio's fitted! only the factory radios from new, which were am & didn't work! haha)
Portland 2011
I'm basically asking, how many of you out there daily drive your beetle's?
I have had a very "rough as guts" 66 beetle previously, but it blew up the first day I got it & sold it to a bloke to cut up for a dune buggy. So I wouldn't really call it a good experience.
I have had this thought for a long time & since racing at Portland in the Golf, I'm finally looking at getting into a proper nice aircooler for the daily drive after being around all the nice aircoolers. Not so much the drag ones, but the really nice streeters.
eg. I met the lady owner at Portland & had a good chat to her about her beetle, who's name I honestly can't remember sorry. I think her husband raced "Shrapnel"? correct me if I'm wrong.
Pic from SA DOVW
This engine is way overkill for what I'm after & I know this & the box would cost plenty of $$$$. Too much for what I'm looking for, but I suppose you get the idea.
This car is the ultimate for me along with Martin Wiesners Cal-Look 56 Oval from a very long time ago. Who was also at Portland on looking & is a long time family friend. I was trying to pry his 56 oval out of hands a very long time ago, but settled for his 83 Campaign GTI.
Now dads 74 stock 1600 twin port scoots along "ok" I suppose (no speed demon off the line, but doesn't have any trouble cruising along at 100-120km/h), but I'm wondering what a 60-65 beetle goes like & what I should be looking for.
Yes I love to race cars etc, but I have a 530hp Holden ute I'm currently using for the commute, which is sort of feeling like its being filtered down the more & more I drive it!!! But I'll use this for a thrill when need be.
I'm very picky about suspension & brakes & they have to be in mint working order, but as far as engines go, I don't mind being on the slow side, as long as it can scoot along with ease at 100-105km/h. I don't care about the traffic light dual!!!
Is this a reasonable thought with an early beetle? As it will be used as my daily hack, but a "cool" hack.
Not after show room paint, panel work, but the interior must be in good condition. Obviously rust is a no no, but don't mind the odd panel ding/scrap, as these all have a story to tell & give the car a certain type of character.
Sort of along these lines
But enough of the rambling.
Is this a rational thought?
Just would like (want is a harsh word) something thats ultra reliable, stops & goes around corners, uses little fuel (ute makes up for the fuel saving) & is basically cool as!
Cheers
Tim.
Paulc1964au ·
Motha,
Sounds like an early beetle or even maybe a 68 -69 might be what your after. I can only go by my experience my first car was a 67 beetle i now have a 69 which looks very straight but it by no means a show car. The fact you want a daily driver means you want a good reliable car that you can leave parked at a mall or work without fear of it being damaged etc so what you describe sounds suitable and an early bug aroud 63 to 70 would suit your needs
waveman1500 ·
Bugs can certainly be daily driven. I've only had experiences with the later ones, but they've been more reliable than a lot of '90s cars. Stock 1600cc twin-ports have enough power to be good daily drivers, and they do sit happily at highway speed. The main difference between a bug and an old car in terms of comfort is the increased noise, especially at highway speed.
65standard ·
I drive my '65 beetle everyday, everywhere. It's a 1200 and still 6 volt.
It's not driven hard, as it's my means of transport, and it gets serviced as per maintenance schedules.
The car runs well, keeps up with traffic, and I have no reliability issues. If something goes wrong, it gets fixed.
Bizarre ·
I drive my 75L daily
I do more 250km a week but it is 7 days a week
My concern with earlys is
6 volts
tiny indicators
drum brakes
poor vision
seat belts
low back seats
non collapsable steering colums
I would consider a fat chick and have a early for cruising
waveman1500 ·
I wouldn't worry too much about the poor vision, Bizarre. You can see more out of the back of an early 60s Bug than you can from a VE Commodore!
motha ·
Cheers fella's
The only real place I leave my cars is at home (semi-rural) & at work, which is off street parking. Other than that, its car shows, cruises, friends places etc. Even at our local shopping complex, its not very hectic.
As far as noise goes, I have no problem with it (although the turbo'd mk1 was quiet & the ute is not so quiet! Its pretty hard to quieten down 500hp of NA power), as long as its not that crappy 4cyl. droney noise you hear from most I4 with an exhaust & also the stock "whistle" type noise from the beetles! haha
I have no problem with so called "roughing it". After all, I have daily driven Mk1's golf for the best part of 15 years.
I wouldn't mind if I have to fit a later model 1600 twin port or a single port setup into an early body if I have to. But if the stock engine can do it without killing it, I don't mind.
I have a modifying problem with anything I touch & this will probably end up with a 1916cc & bigger with twin webers eventually anyway!!!
My ute was suppose to be my daily driver replacement & thought, I'd only do a tune, exhaust & cold air intake for a bit more power & also the advantages of heaps better fuel efficiency with the tune etc (as they run pig rich stock!) But when I dropped it off, I wound up with a cam kit, high stall & diff gears. Week later I picked up a 313rwkw ute!!!!
motha ·
waveman1500 wrote:I wouldn't worry too much about the poor vision, Bizarre. You can see more out of the back of an early 60s Bug than you can from a VE Commodore!
This is true!!!!
My brother had a VE SSV Wagon & the rear vision is bloody horrible.
The Passat CC is beyond a joke too!
ps I work for VW as a mechanic, so I have alittle bit of an idea about new cars. But watercooled!!!! haha
But I don't think I would have any drama's doing normal type service & upkeep work on a early beetle. But as far as modding engines, boxs, etc. Might need some research
greasykitchen ·
I moved from a '72 1300 bug as a daily driver to a '76 golf. There was a noticable difference in comfort level, power and overall feel. Though the golf is still an old fashioned car, it's much easier to keep up with traffic in one of them than a beetle. On the other hand, the golf's brakes are probably no more effective than the 4 wheel drums on my beetle.
My 22 cents.
65standard ·
Bizarre wrote:I drive my 75L daily
I do more 250km a week but it is 7 days a week
My concern with earlys is
6 volts
tiny indicators
drum brakes
poor vision
seat belts
low back seats
non collapsable steering colums
I would consider a fat chick and have a early for cruising
6 Volts no problem
Indicators not much smaller than current day cars, just not as bright
Have seat belts
Drum brakes work great for this car. No weight and no high powered engine to slow down
Steering column not an issue. I don't speed and keep my distance from those in front of me
helbus ·
We have our 1302S Beetle as a family daily driver. We get asked very often where our new car is. I tell them the 75 Kombi is at home.
Joel ·
motha wrote:I'm very picky about suspension & brakes
Heed the advice of Bizarre.
I would be looking at a later model.
Early beetles have the "look" but are let down by everything else especially as a daily driver.
If the look is what your after you can stick an early body on a late pan or just early guards and bumpers on a late standard bug.
People will say oh but the brakes are fine yadda yadda but till you're in a emergency stop type situation where all the other cars around you can stop rreal quick you find out just how bad 6 volt brakes are and how unpredictable the suspension can be, a fully loaded school bus can stop better.
No matter how slow you drive you still need to be able to stop as quick as everyone else around you and it's pointles leaving big gaps cos the arrogant fkwit drivers around only squeeze into a gap they see.
I have 4 wheel discs on mine and several times in city traffic I've had to make use of them thanks to careless other drivers.
In a 6 volt bug I wouldn't have stood a chance of stopping.
Even the best setup linkpin/swing axle bug with 6 volt brakes still corners and stops like a bucket of shite.
People will argue but it's fact.
They were ahead of there time when new and are miles in front of other cars from the same era but they are also 50 year old cars now and handle like such.
Flintstones ·
I drove a couple of early beetles some time ago as daily's and they were great (one had disks/drums the other standard drum/drums)
I'd definitely covert it to 12V if it isn't already, also do something about the wiper motor (you'd need to slow it down if it's still a 6V) + it allows you to have a decent radio/cd player
Fit disk brakes up front at the very least, simply for servicing, as I found that the drum brakes needed consistent adjusting (I was traveling at least 300km's per week)
In my 58 i had a 1500 single port which had plenty of scoot for daily traffic.
Other that that enjoy😎
Cheers
D
motha ·
Joel wrote:
motha wrote:I'm very picky about suspension & brakes
Heed the advice of Bizarre.
I would be looking at a later model.
Early beetles have the "look" but are let down by everything else especially as a daily driver.
If the look is what your after you can stick an early body on a late pan or just early guards and bumpers on a late standard bug.
People will say oh but the brakes are fine yadda yadda but till you're in a emergency stop type situation where all the other cars around you can stop rreal quick you find out just how bad 6 volt brakes are and how unpredictable the suspension can be, a fully loaded school bus can stop better.
No matter how slow you drive you still need to be able to stop as quick as everyone else around you and it's pointles leaving big gaps cos the arrogant fkwit drivers around only squeeze into a gap they see.
I have 4 wheel discs on mine and several times in city traffic I've had to make use of them thanks to careless other drivers.
In a 6 volt bug I wouldn't have stood a chance of stopping.
Even the best setup linkpin/swing axle bug with 6 volt brakes still corners and stops like a bucket of shite.
People will argue but it's fact.
They were ahead of there time when new and are miles in front of other cars from the same era but they are also 50 year old cars now and handle like such.
You won't get an argument out of me on the problems with traffic!
I tackle the $@%wit Melb drivers everyday & yes they are quick to jam their brakes on at the drop of the hat!!!
Eg! Just last week I was driving along & 4 lanes of traffic moving at 100km/h. No drama's. No one was slowing down up front, to the side & all was well until..............
of all things, the sun came out from behind a clowd & all hell broke loss! The sun! for @$%@ sake!!!
What is it with these people. They are scared of everything incl. other drivers in front, to the side, behind, water not incl. rain. I mean spray from washer jets!!!, rain, the sun, trucks coming along side, people towing trailers.
But driving training etc is whole different story! My uncle works for vic roads & is a driving inspector & words direct from his mouth "driving instructors are only teaching kids how to get their licence! Not how to drive!" Couldn't a truer word said!!!!
hellbugged ·
just keep the golf ❓
motha ·
I understand what your saying Joel^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ & yes old stuff isn't exactly the best thing to tackle everyday, but I'm also use to driving a 12 sec 220+hp 76 golf on 165's with a locked diff too!
So its not like I don't have any experience in driving stupid old cars in current day traffic & yes you have to adjust to the driving style.
But yes a early body on a late pan would be ideal, but I'm not interested in having to build another car either & spending big $$$$$. I'd prefer something already done. Been building/playing/modding cars the best part of my life so far & kind of over it to be honest especially putting in all that effort to go slow!
I don't have a problem building stuff like 500+ small block chev's etc.
Obviously I don't mind tinkering with the odd things here & there like upgrading headlights & brakes etc. though, but not something to that level.
Flintstones wrote:I drove a couple of early beetles some time ago as daily's and they were great (one had disks/drums the other standard drum/drums)
I'd definitely covert it to 12V if it isn't already, also do something about the wiper motor (you'd need to slow it down if it's still a 6V) + it allows you to have a decent radio/cd player
Fit disk brakes up front at the very least, simply for servicing, as I found that the drum brakes needed consistent adjusting (I was traveling at least 300km's per week)
In my 58 i had a 1500 single port which had plenty of scoot for daily traffic.
Other that that enjoy😎
Cheers
D
Yeah, that sounds pretty cool. So did this 58 have the original box as well, or something with better suited ratio's?
My daily drive is mostly hwy driving, so comfortable 95-105km/h cruising has to be on the cards.
I have added the disc upgrade to the options list too.
These beetles don't "appear" to bad, but is the $$$$ on the money???
Plus it not only needs an engine rebuild, which I just can't be stuffed doing, but it has a terminal rust problem too.
I mean real rust in every panel!!!!!!!!!!!
hellbugged ·
cool yep understand all that.
I'm crrently driving a dead stock '67.....260miles on 32 litres.
well said in response to Joel's "issues"..........the thing is the brakes and handling are in proportion to it's power and speed.....and as you said, it is what is and needs to be driven accordingly.
LUFTMEISTER ·
A daily LP is fine .......the strut guys just like to bag us because they have a Jap suspension set up.....plus they like getting wheel alignments 😂
motha ·
LUFTMEISTER wrote:A daily LP is fine .......the strut guys just like to bag us because they have a Jap suspension set up.....plus they like getting wheel alignments 😂
LP as in Link Pin setup yeah?
Sorry, just new to the beetle lingo! haha
Funny thing is & I don't mean to offend anyone at all, but alot of the so called "hardcore" vw people I've met/come across don't even have VW's as daily drivers! Some of these people also look down on the watercoolers, but then they have cars like toyotas, commodores, mitsubishi's, fords, mazda's etc. as daily drivers & everything BUT a VW!!! Hardcore to the max!!!!!!!
But I also know how "good" the new vw's actually are & don't blame them.
I got my mum out of an older VW & put her in a i30 Hyundai & she loves it & hasn't looked back!
Joel ·
motha wrote:I understand what your saying Joel^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ & yes old stuff isn't exactly the best thing to tackle everyday, but I'm also use to driving a 12 sec 220+hp 76 golf on 165's with a locked diff too!
So its not like I don't have any experience in driving stupid old cars in current day traffic & yes you have to adjust to the driving style.
But yes a early body on a late pan would be ideal, but I'm not interested in having to build another car either & spending big $$$$$. I'd prefer something already done. Been building/playing/modding cars the best part of my life so far & kind of over it to be honest especially putting in all that effort to go slow!
I don't have a problem building stuff like 500+ small block chev's etc.
Obviously I don't mind tinkering with the odd things here & there like upgrading headlights & brakes etc. though, but not something to that level.
Wasnt having a dig at your driving abilities nor was I trying to spark a debate on which model is the best handling cos fact remains any aircooled VW in stock format has poor handling when compared to a front engined FWD vehicle be it link pin, balljoint, strut, IRS etc.
It's not hard to change that though, but is the work involved overkill for a daily/cruiser? up to the individual I guess.
motha ·
Joel wrote:
motha wrote:I understand what your saying Joel^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ & yes old stuff isn't exactly the best thing to tackle everyday, but I'm also use to driving a 12 sec 220+hp 76 golf on 165's with a locked diff too!
So its not like I don't have any experience in driving stupid old cars in current day traffic & yes you have to adjust to the driving style.
But yes a early body on a late pan would be ideal, but I'm not interested in having to build another car either & spending big $$$$$. I'd prefer something already done. Been building/playing/modding cars the best part of my life so far & kind of over it to be honest especially putting in all that effort to go slow!
I don't have a problem building stuff like 500+ small block chev's etc.
Obviously I don't mind tinkering with the odd things here & there like upgrading headlights & brakes etc. though, but not something to that level.
Wasnt having a dig at your driving abilities nor was I trying to spark a debate on which model is the best handling cos fact remains any aircooled VW in stock format has poor handling when compared to a front engined FWD vehicle be it link pin, balljoint, strut, IRS etc.
It's not hard to change that though, but is the work involved overkill for a daily/cruiser? up to the individual I guess.
All good Joel. I didn't take it as a dig at all & didn't even think you were.
I'm one of the more "thick skinned" computer sort of person.
But yes I do take on advice tips etc. from anyone. Especially people who've been there & done it.
After all, my only VW beetle ownership experience was probably the shortest lived in history! Blew up with-in 10 mins of running time! haha
rob53 ·
I used to drive my '70 as a daily and put 500km+ a week. Definitily more fun to drive, but now use a Golf as a daily instead. All the creature comforts, safety, fuel economy and ease of keeping up with traffic are my main reasons. I'd be weary of comparing a mk1 golf to a beetle in terms of comfort and etc. because they really are two completely different cars.
Craig Torrens ·
Joel wrote:People will say oh but the brakes are fine yadda yadda but till you're in a emergency stop type situation where all the other cars around you can stop rreal quick you find out just how bad 6 volt brakes are and how unpredictable the suspension can be, a fully loaded school bus can stop better.
No matter how slow you drive you still need to be able to stop as quick as everyone else around you and it's pointles leaving big gaps cos the arrogant fkwit drivers around only squeeze into a gap they see.
I have 4 wheel discs on mine and several times in city traffic I've had to make use of them thanks to careless other drivers.
In a 6 volt bug I wouldn't have stood a chance of stopping.
Even the best setup linkpin/swing axle bug with 6 volt brakes still corners and stops like a bucket of shite.
People will argue but it's fact.
Its not really a fact that they are all "shite"...probably just your limited experience with good ones.
Drum brakes in GOOD condition stop fine for city driving, and are also fine when performing emergency stopping....its only when you do repeated high speed stopping they are shocking.
The only ones that are "shite" are the ones that have not been setup properly or are in average to poor condition re shoes, wheel cylinders, fluid, and out of round drum faces.
motha ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
Joel wrote:People will say oh but the brakes are fine yadda yadda but till you're in a emergency stop type situation where all the other cars around you can stop rreal quick you find out just how bad 6 volt brakes are and how unpredictable the suspension can be, a fully loaded school bus can stop better.
No matter how slow you drive you still need to be able to stop as quick as everyone else around you and it's pointles leaving big gaps cos the arrogant fkwit drivers around only squeeze into a gap they see.
I have 4 wheel discs on mine and several times in city traffic I've had to make use of them thanks to careless other drivers.
In a 6 volt bug I wouldn't have stood a chance of stopping.
Even the best setup linkpin/swing axle bug with 6 volt brakes still corners and stops like a bucket of shite.
People will argue but it's fact.
Its not really a fact that they are all "shite"...probably just your limited experience with good ones.
Drum brakes in GOOD condition stop fine for city driving, and are also fine when performing emergency stopping....its only when you do repeated high speed stopping they are shocking.
The only ones that are "shite" are the ones that have not been setup properly or are in average to poor condition re shoes, wheel cylinders, fluid, and out of round drum faces.
True!
After all, The majority of trucks still have drums & when in 100% servicable condition they "are" better than discs.
But only on the first & maybe second hard application. After that they will fade & the last time I was at trade school, they still teach it too.
Had drums on a landcruiser I once owned & they pulled up the 350ci small block under the bonnet ok.
The do have more operating service area than disc's but don't like repeated heavy applications, due to dispersing the heat.
Barnabie ·
Drive my 1971 1300 every day, about an 80km round trip most of which is through a 100km/h zone, 5 days a week. Handling, performance, comfort obviously worlds away from that you'd get in a modern vehicle, but I have limited mechanical hassles, cheap comprehensive insurance, excellent economy and reliability, and the grin factor every time I'm in it.
Best of luck with your search.
Kris 😀
Flintstones ·
motha wrote:
Flintstones wrote:I drove a couple of early beetles some time ago as daily's and they were great (one had disks/drums the other standard drum/drums)
I'd definitely covert it to 12V if it isn't already, also do something about the wiper motor (you'd need to slow it down if it's still a 6V) + it allows you to have a decent radio/cd player
Fit disk brakes up front at the very least, simply for servicing, as I found that the drum brakes needed consistent adjusting (I was traveling at least 300km's per week)
In my 58 i had a 1500 single port which had plenty of scoot for daily traffic.
Other that that enjoy😎
Cheers
D
Yeah, that sounds pretty cool. So did this 58 have the original box as well, or something with better suited ratio's?
My daily drive is mostly hwy driving, so comfortable 95-105km/h cruising has to be on the cards.
I have added the disc upgrade to the options list too.
These beetles don't "appear" to bad, but is the $$$$ on the money???
My 58 was my first VW and I'm not sure if it was the original box, don't think it was, but it was fine for both city and hwy driving.
Not to throw a spanner in the works, but have you thought about a type 3 for a daily?
I had a 65 Squareback which I put disk brakes on the front and also put in a TLE injected motor (later factory 1600cc type 3 motor which was microtech'd also) and found the type 3 a much nicer car for daily commute.
I wish I'd driven a type 3 before building my oval cause I found it much more refined compared to a linkpin setup 🙂 (have yet to drive a ball joint beetle, maybe when my oval is finished😂
Cheers
D
beetleboyjeff ·
I was doing about 500km most weekends going to Port Macquarie and back from Newcastle in my 75 Lbug.
Since November, I have been doing about 1200km per weekend going to Port and back from Orange.
Weekend before last I went about 2000km to Brisbane & back from Parkes.
All great fun untill I had a wheel bearing collapse this morning between Lithgow & Bathurst. NRMA trucked it to Bathurst for me, but when we took the hub off, the bearing had 'welded' itself to the stub axle and stuffed it. Boris is sending a replacement, but I won't get it untill tomorrow morning.
I suppose this could happen in any car though.
helbus ·
And compared to a modern POC that will require a special order part from !!! country being 3 weeks? Then requiring only a dealer being !!! k'ms away to fit it.
The Beetle looks good.
I remember about 10 years ago in the Snowy Mountains NSW a wheel bearing let go in our 1975 Bus and the local car parts supplier was able to give us a suitable wheel bearing from another model, and then pointed us in the direction of a handy farmer that was able to change it for us for $50. So about $80 all up and we were on the road again.
Canni. ·
Definitely do-able, drove '60 daily for years - all original including 6v... which I'd probably change if I did it again as I've gotten used to not driving by candle light hah. Never had issue with the drum brakes - kept it serviced and keep a reasonable distance between cars, cause the 36hp made it considerably easier cause you can't go that fast 😀
I switched to a square back cause needed more space, wanted to do the bug up, I do like the comforts such as 12v, radio, feels a bit nicer on the freeway... I'd go back to daily driving the bug definitely cause every day is a cruise then 🙂
motha ·
Thanks all for the replies & stories. Appreciate them 100%
I contacted the owner of the green 60 bug above. Been sold. Ah well.
The search continues.
Have also had a early Type 3 in the back of my mind too. The ones with the bullet style indicators.
Don't mind swingaxles, but not the belly ached swingaxle "camber" look.
Matt Ryan ·
All great fun untill I had a wheel bearing collapse this morning between Lithgow & Bathurst. NRMA trucked it to Bathurst for me, but when we took the hub off, the bearing had 'welded' itself to the stub axle and stuffed it. Boris is sending a replacement, but I won't get it untill tomorrow morning.
I suppose this could happen in any car though.
Only difference, is on a "modern" car you would have had a better chance of hearing the wheel bearing a long time before it let go. There is always a lot of noise going on around you, even in a stock beetle.
Hope you don't get stuffed about too much Jeff. And I hope you replace the bearings on Both front wheels 'cause the other one won't be far behind.
Regards,
Matt.
beetleboyjeff ·
I have had wheel bearing noises since last year. I got them to check them when I got tires at Warners Bay in October - they reckoned they were OK.
I then took it to the VW blokes in Belmont in November, and they reckoned they were OK.
I got new strut inserts and all the brakes done in Orange in February and asked them to check the bearings, and they still reckoned they were OK.
2 or 3 weeks ago, it was getting VERY noisy in the RH rear, I took it back to the place in Orange and they said the rear bearing was starting to disintegrate. I asked them to do both sides, but they could only get one set of bearings, so only did the RH side, as I was driving back to Port that night.
I have still been hearing what I reckoned was bearing noises, so I was planning on getting them checked again in Parkes when I get tires in the next week or so.
I have got a complete set of bearings and seals for all wheels from Vintage, and are getting them all done now - the stuff arived about 10.30am, so it is nearly finished.
Joel ·
Craig Torrens wrote:Its not really a fact that they are all "shite"...probably just your limited experience with good ones.
Drum brakes in GOOD condition stop fine for city driving, and are also fine when performing emergency stopping....its only when you do repeated high speed stopping they are shocking.
The only ones that are "shite" are the ones that have not been setup properly or are in average to poor condition re shoes, wheel cylinders, fluid, and out of round drum faces.
Thats a valid point.
The only ones that tend to get an entire brake system overhaul with new parts are the show cars and full restos, not all the daily drivers my freinds scare me with 😂
beetleboyjeff wrote:All great fun untill I had a wheel bearing collapse this morning between Lithgow & Bathurst. NRMA trucked it to Bathurst for me, but when we took the hub off, the bearing had 'welded' itself to the stub axle and stuffed it. Boris is sending a replacement, but I won't get it untill tomorrow morning.
I suppose this could happen in any car though.
I can Identify Jeff, mine did the exact same thing only in the middle of nowhere on the Pacific highway at Yelgun.
I couldn't get hold of a new 2 bolt spindle anywhere, that's when mine made the switch to 3 bolt.
Smiley ·
I daily drive my Baja to work and back. I do around 600-800km a week. Is a '65 on a '72 super pan with a king pin front end welded on.
My drums brakes work great, but are always checked and adjusted. The problem with drums is they stop working when wet. Drive through a foot or two of water and you have to keep mega distance from anyone you're following until they dry out.
And if I jump into my '68 semi (with disc front) it is so much better than the Baja at all times, and I've never ever even looked at the brakes once.
This can be fixed like all things, plenty of VW shops offer disc brake front kits for the early cars.
My car is swingaxle, and lifted slightly. So can be downright horrible as far as handling goes. But you just need to learn to drive accordingly.
This can also be fixed, IRS (the double jointed kind) conversions aren't that hard to do, especially not if you're mechanically minded. I have a bit of leg up in that respect with the super pan and the factory pivots boxes.
I really like the idea of an early body on a later pan, but if I was going to that effort I'd go with a balljoint pan and weld some pivot boxes on while I'm going.
Lights and electrics are all upgradeable, it's really quite an easy job to do I don't see why you wouldn't. Leave the 6V starter in it until it dies and collect the bits necessary to convert the starter to 12V when you're ready.
The worst thing I find with my Baja is the noise, carpets and sound deadening would probably help this. But even a stock Beetle is going to be loud compared to a newer car (even if it is a 70's model Golf).
Getting the car quieter is still a work in progress with mine.
Advice on whether to do it or not. I say just do it!!!
Sure it won't stop or handle or accelerate or be as quiet as a modern car. But when you drive down the street people don't stop and turn around to look at you, and kids don't start punching each other when you're driving a Commodore/Falcon/Camry/Plastic Shitbox.
Just do it!!
Smiley 😎
motha ·
Can't thank you all enough for the advice & stories.
Love the last comment above^^^^^ Smiley.
I can remember that happening when mum use to drop us off at school & all the kids would start punching each other "Punch Buggy!" haha
Yes in a normal car you don't get noticed but even in my ute, it attracts alot of attention, due to the noise of a pretty cranky V8 backed up by a 4200 convertor.
You obviously just don't see people punching each other though!
(but drive through Geelong on a weekend at night & your bound to see some "real fights"! They don't call it "fight club" for nothing!)
Still on the hunt. Just need to sell of some cars first
motha ·
I know I'm dragging up an old thread, but thought I'd just add to it, instead of starting off a fresh thread in regards to tracking down a nice beetle!
I came across this one on carsales & even though contacting the person is of course the first port of call.
Its also a days work to go & see it to check out out properly too.
So I thought I'd throw it up here, as the VW "aircooled" community seems fairly tight-nit. So I'm hoping someone would know something of, or about this car below?
Is it as good as its advertised?
The body, interior etc all look in good condition etc., but pics can be deceiving & also don't show whats underneath.
It's probably a '66 model by the rear decklid and interior pattern - these originally have an F series 1300SP motor. Most of them when overhauled up the engine to 1600 as the case is the same pretty much. I drive a '67 which is basically the same about 30km round trip most days, but mostly 60-80km/h. At 100km/h it's pretty loud but handles it OK.
That one looks like a nice car but you need to look at it in the flesh.
Turbo54 ·
Motha, Her name is Rachel and husband is David O'Conner. the diamond green car is beautiful and is hers is the first photo.
heath
motha ·
Thanks for the comments & advice!
I reckon the blue one could be a goer, but would really like to get into something mid-late 50's/oval.
I remember seeing this at the Kustom Nats at Phillip Isl & thought that this was me down to a tea.
Thanks also for putting a name to the Minty Bug. I remember'd it was in the same Tent as Scrapnel & talking to both of them. But just couldn't remember the names.
& yes its a very nice car & a very nice complete package!
Klaus ·
Drive a 62 split panel daily for a work car and cant bring myself to drive a late model ..safety this .. airbags that ... people seem to forget that in the 50's 60's 70's these where all daily driven when the roads where worse and to get your license was a trip to the cop shop .
mind you I have junked the redux hubs and gone to 4 wheel discs ... Get yourself into an early bug, ghia , type 3 or Thing you'll luv it
good luck in your search, here's my bit for recycling 😉
motha ·
Klaus wrote:Drive a 62 split panel daily for a work car and cant bring myself to drive a late model ..safety this .. airbags that ... people seem to forget that in the 50's 60's 70's these where all daily driven when the roads where worse and to get your license was a trip to the cop shop .
mind you I have junked the redux hubs and gone to 4 wheel discs ... Get yourself into an early bug, ghia , type 3 or Thing you'll luv it
good luck in your search, here's my bit for recycling 😉
Thats awesome Klaus!!!
love it.
How many km's do you normally clock up over a week's work travel in the bus?
I also have to take into consideration that I spend the best part of 9+hr's in the car each week ranging from 600-1000km a week!
Klaus ·
I can cover anywhere from 300-900 a week , I'm 24hr so get called all times of day/night in all weather , Have used my other vw 1971 lowlight dc with 2110 fricken boot loads of torque for a work truck when the panel is having upgrades or a brake and used to use a 68 type 3 wagon with ej20t for a work vehicle for about 3 yrs alot of fun that was 🙂
Rural Baja ·
I use a 64 Ragtop as my daily, and since i got my licence in December 2009 i have clocked up a total of 41,000kms in it. I have been through three gearboxes (The original was stuffed, pulled it out at 55,000 miles, second one lasted until 72,000 miles and this one up to 80,000 miles) and has had three engines (Original 1200 was pulled out at 56,000 miles due to being slow and 6volt, 1600 lasted until 74,000 when a 1916 went in and that lasted until a knock developed at 77,000)
Basically driving an early beetle everyday is a lot of fun. Of course there is the occasional stops on the side of the road when i run out of fuel (No fuel guage), the time when i lost my passenger side front wheel whilst driving down a gravel road, when my fanbelt decided to snap, when my rear brake drum spline flogged out and i was going nowhere fast (Home on a tow-truck) when all my brakes disappeared in traffic due to a bleeding nipple coming loose... and then all the usual windscreen wiper motor burning out, the horn for some reason start blowing whilst in town, the numerous times that fuses have blown, that wires have fallen off in the engine bay, that i've had to push the car due to flat batteries, when heavy rain comes through the door and my passenger ends up drenched, when the rubber matt covering the battery decides to fall off and set the seat base across the battery... I could continue on!
It's a bog stock, drum braked, 1600cc 12volt 64 Beetle. Nothing special except a good sound system 👍 and yesterday i completed a 500mile, 12 hour trip to the far West Coast of Tassie and back. Not an ounce of problems! Of course i took an arsenal of tools but didn't have to lift the hood once.
If you keep the maintenance up i've found there will be no problems. I wouldn't trade my Rag in on anything, it has been a great 40,000kms in 18 months and last nights trip showed what a bloody good little car a beetle is.
Just my 2c worth 😂
Cheers Bill.
Ps. I have no doubt that this would be the most travelled early beetle (even general air-cooled beetle) in Tasmania.
Rural Baja ·
And this is the car that will get an absolute flogging at Symonns Plains raceway and drove home without even needing to adjust the brakes!
Give me an early anyday 😀
OldTimer ·
Hey motha,
Been watching this thread with some interest. Seems that we all have some advice, and most of it good - some of it biased - and some of it interesting.
Now it's my turn - there are two things you must take into account over all the other things you could think of, and they are:
Buy the best you can afford, and
Buy what you'll be happy with for a long time.
Why the best you can afford? Well obviously the best you can afford will mean (usually) that a lot of the crappy stuff you have to deal with on a old car should already be done, and
Why something you'll be happy with for a long time? Once you've lived with a Dub (no matter the type or vintage) it'll get under your skin and you'll never want to part with it.
Dubs are a strange beast, they bring out all sorts of emotions that people usually leave hidden. Owners become pationate about their cars and all others aren't as good as the one they have. Others swap their patricular models with another model (the grass is always greener), whilst others keep buying the same model over and over. The only constant here is that they all keep buying Dubs.
The last thing I will say is that no matter what model you decide to buy, the Dub community will embrace you whole-heartedly. I cannot count the number of times I've reached out for help or advice and been bambarded with many replies - all helpful and friendly.
I hope you get what you want soon, I know you'll be stoked no matter the model or vintage.
See you on the road.
OldTimer
motha ·
I'm loving these kinds of stories.
Pleasr keep them coming.
I rarely see anyone daily driving beetles or any real old cars at all these days. Especially over a bit of distance.
99% of the time, my 76 golf is the oldest car on the road heading up & down the princes hwy to & from melb.
Even seeing old VB-VL commodores is a rarity believe it or not!
Paulc1964au ·
This is my Rosie
Bought her 18 months ago and have had her lowered, new 2 inch narrowed beam, wheels and just had a new interior installed. She is my daily weekend driver and still have plans for a new engine one day lol.
One thing i have learned is they are labour of love and for every $1 you put in you may add half in value but thats not what it is about. I have made some great friends though my VW and wouldnt have it any other way.
BTW Rosie has been raised and inch on the front as the turning circle was a little to wide
motha ·
Well, I'm off to have a look at a beetle tomorrow & it ticks all the boxes.
58 model full resto inside & out, roughly 13 years ago
stock fully restored interior. stock radio blanking plate
2nd owner
70 pan
front disc
12v
stock 1600
It all sounds very mint & the bloke doesn't mind spending coin on it.
Spend big $$$$ on it to start with & it will never let you down is his & my own philosophy!
By the sounds of it, its a awesome cruiser
Is there anything I should look for besides rust in all the usual places?
What sort of front & rear suspension setups are in the 70's pan setup?
Very excited!
Paulc1964au ·
Mine is a 69 has a ball joint front end and swing axle rear end
motha ·
Paulc1964au wrote:Mine is a 69 has a ball joint front end and swing axle rear end
Cheers for the Paulc! Appreciate it.
Well I went & had a look & the car is an older resto. Paint is borderline hammered, but thats also been an everyday driver rain, hail or shine for 13+ years.
Some paint surfaces have humidity bubbles, some paint it cracked & lifting.
But its only surface rust. There is "no" visible structural rust at all! I checked all the common places & other places that I thought would be common sense. Has had a section replaced in the front floor pans, but the rest is mint & straight as a die. Battery tray, heater boxes etc. all look mint.
The interior mint, apart from a cracked stock (batwing?" steering wheel, the headlining at the back above the rear window & the interior light.
Chrome is as you would expect after a long period of service. A few dings, pitting etc etc. But all there & still good. Only one ding in a gaurd & its very tiny! Both front guards have splits in the back corners at the bottom & are alittle floppy.
Engine has normal oil sweat/leak. But didn't drip anything.
Wiring it all new. Semafoirs are there, but not hooked up due to 12v. But I don't think that is a worry.
Gearbox has layshaft bearing issues, due to a whine in 1,2 & 3. 4th is mint.
Engine sounds & is strong. Pulls nice & smooth. Drives straight as an arrow, no shuddering, no wind noise. Brakes are good. Doors shut as does any beetle "Clunk!"
Seals are in reasonable condition & no water leaks.
Overall, its a very nice car & can see the daily driver duties throughout the years.
The only issue I can really find is the paint. But it will also be a daily driver & I could repair sections at a time. Owner didn't bother with them, as its his only car & isn't structural. Which I can understand.
Will just have to weigh up the options, but its looking good so far.
I won't post up any pics or details sorry, until its a done deal.
Paulc1964au ·
looks like a good car to start off with and who knows maybe in the future you can respray it.
motha ·
Paulc1964au wrote:looks like a good car to start off with and who knows maybe in the future you can respray it.
Yeah its along the lines I'm thinking.
As the paint repair can be done in patches, as there is no structural or major rust. All surface rust that I can see. So Bare metal it, rust convertor or cut out & replace the section etc, so it may end up with a few primer patches on it I reckon.
But that adds the character to a 63 year old car that still runs!
I forgot how tiny they are inside with 2 people in the front!
Brought back fond memory's of growing up with a beetle as the "family car".
My parents brought it 2nd hand, buy my dad still owns it to this day. 28+ years later.
So nearly every morning my 76 Golf is the oldest car heading up & down the hwy doing 600-900km a week!
This beetle will be hard to beat then for oldest car then!
I'm a mechanic, so I'm sure I will be able to look after it mechanically & keep it going strong.
motha ·
I've got to ask a few questions in regards to what is the normal type of first upgrades you should be looking at for a daily driver beetle, as I'm clued in with watercooled VW's, but not early aircoolers. I know they are fairly basic setup to a degree & have no problem tackling any job required from mechanicals, to all out full wiring jobs. (I've actually done a few showy cars now with full hidden & upgraded wiring setups. But not for beetle's. More so Mk1 Golfs & old Holdens).
But really would like some handy hints/tips as to what I should be looking at to start with.
eg. is it worth fitting an external oil cooler, oil pump/doghouse oil cooler bypass ? & fit an external oil filter etc etc? Bigger sump to hold more oil to aid in cooling?
Or any other engine upgrades to keep it on the safe side? eg Like better engine crankcase breathing
Is there a bolt in fuel tank which holds more fuel than the stock 58 tank? Not sure what the stock 58 capacity is, but it looks quite small & I do alot of km's a week.
What is needed to get the stock 6v semiphones operational again? 12V - 6V converter etc?