Got it back the other day and it is all peeling on the inside.
Out side looks good, but the inside is rubbish
The inside looks like a thin layer of hot dipped gal that is just peeling and bubbling
is this normal??
I have had to grind this heavy skin off that is bubbling and loose in places otherwise it is jusy going to rust
The indicators are a pain to clean around.
Using a wire wheel but I can not get in there.
I am giving it an etch primer and hammertone. Did this to my other ones and they have been fine outside for like 5 years.
68AutoBug ·
as the outside is the important part to be rechromed they don't do the back of the bumper....
otherwise it would cost You more......
what did it cost to have Your bumper rechromed?
spray behind Your bumper with light grey primer or silver...
cheers
LEE
vw54 ·
yep thats normal give it a rub back and paint it liker u did before
Yogie ·
When I got mine done, they said the chrome doesn't adhere to the curves on the back as well as it does to the front (outside). I painted a silver POR15 coating to the inside with a paint brush and it has lasted well for more than 8 years now.
Yogie
waveman1500 ·
I've always painted the insides of my bumpers black. They look fine that way and it doesn't look like a failed attempt at a chrome job. Just a normal wire brush (not on a grinder) and then painted on with a brush works for me.
Lucky Phil ·
I just painted the inside of my bumper with killrust primer and then killrust 'aluminium silver' colour.
Looks ok but maybe a little tacky.
I will probably try black next time.
vlad01 ·
Yes! that is the right thing to do ^
chrome is current density sensitive so it does not plate recessed, nooks, enclosed areas etc....
so yep, thats normal for a bumper chroming and why VW painted the inside at the factory.
psimitar ·
Yogie wrote:When I got mine done, they said the chrome doesn't adhere to the curves on the back as well as it does to the front (outside). I painted a silver POR15 coating to the inside with a paint brush and it has lasted well for more than 8 years now.
Yogie
They told you crap then cos don't matter the curves it has it depends on how it's prepped so the copper and nickel bond well with the steel/base metal.
If they use the latest methods then a clean plain steel surface can be nickel plated and then chromed without the need for copper but the older method requires the use of copper for the nickel to adhere too 😉
vw54 ·
yes preparation is a must when chrome plating an item
Also for inner surfaces you woul have to make an anode to allow the chrome better throwing power to the surface when in the chrome solution
I usually polish all the sharpe edges before getting a re chrome done then paint the inner surfaces with Wheel silver paint makes for a nice job
Aussie Dubbin ·
VW54 is on the right track. Imagine you are trying to chrome a bumber that has lots of bends and nooks and crannies, The annode needs to mirror as best as possible the shapes of the material being chromed. If the annode cannot get close then the 'throw' of chrome is not as hard or consistent... hence crappy chrome. Also they need to prep the bars so do you really want to start paying the chromer to strip, copper coat and polish and then try to make an annode fit closely to the back of the bumper along its lenght?
helbus ·
I'm sure they could finish inside the bar to a shiny polished finish for double the price.
grumble ·
Buggered if I know any better but I had my Ghia bars rechromed at Hamilton Chrome and the inside looked pretty good,when I refitted the bars I painted inside with Tectyl as a precaution tp prevent any future problems.