I am about to start assembling my new engine that will be installed into the new drag car and hopefully be running in time for the Warwick weekend in October this year . This engine programme started 3 years ago when I contacted the guys @ Pauter Machine in the US requesting an engine that would produce the absolute maximun HP that could be possible . After a few months Mario came up with the following combination based on their modular big block configuration , a complete in house 3299cc engine ;
90mm billet crank with 351 ford main bearings and small block large jnl chevy rod bearings
6.280" x beam moly rods
roller cam with 438 lift and 280 duration @ .050
108mm venolia pistons with billet aluminium modular cylinders
Super Pro heads with 97cc chambers , 57mm x 45mm titanium valves , crower ti. retainers and vasco springs
Pauter block
I have cleaned and inspected all components and am a bit overwhelmed of the amount of work it took to make these components . The size and strength of the components is incredible when compared to the std vw engine components . I will endevour to share with you the components and assembly of the engine as this is a project that has no budget . I have purchased the absolute best parts that money can buy and the amount of technology that will be rerquired to produce over 1000 HP is my goal , ROD.
RodPenrose ·
Here is a comparison between a std 1600cc crank and the billet 90mm Pauter crank . The Pauter crank has a flanged area on the rear where the flywheel is held on with 6 bolts and 6 dowells and is on a 3" bolt circle , the same as a 351 ford crank .
RodPenrose ·
This is a comparison between a std 1600cc rod and the Pauter X beam . The length of the vw rod is 5.394" or 137mm , and the Pauter is 6.280" or 159.5mm . Pauter call their rod an X beam because if you cut the rod in half the beam of the rod will look like a X , unlike the std vw rod that will look like an I .
matara ·
Looking forward to reading about this build! 1000hp is Veyron territory in a Beetle!!!
Good luck with the build Rod
Cheers
Steve
Stanley ·
RodPenrose wrote:I contacted the guys @ Pauter Machine in the US requesting an engine that would produce the absolute maximun HP that could be possible .
this is a project that has no budget .
The Pauter guys must love you Rod....can't wait for this thread to get going....thanks for sharing
Paulc1964au ·
Rod,
Any leftovers just throw into my bug next week lol
RodPenrose ·
From every angle of the heads they are a work of art . These heads are almost twice the weight of a std vw head and the valve sizes have increased from 35mm to 57mm on the intake and from 32mm to 45mm on the ex. side . These were designed for maximun performance and flow with the large intake and ex. ports . The valves are titanium for more strength and less weight , the retainers are also ti. for another weight saving and the dual 1.640" diameter springs have almost 900 psi @ full lift .
RodPenrose ·
You can also see in these pic's that the rockers are now bolted to the heads using mutiple studs as compared to the vw head .
Camo ·
Holly F................
In the chevy world this would be called a big block, is it the same thing in VW engine world 👍👍👍👍👍
So this must mean the money I paid you the other day is now involved in this engine, so am I a part owner 😂😂😂😂
Anyway, bloody beautiful to see. Keep the photos coming 👍
Kev
RodPenrose ·
I suppose you would know which piston I will use in this engine . Here is the 108mm Venolia piston and a std 85.5mm 1600 cc piston . The weight again is almost double that of the std piston so it will handle the amount of boost that it will see . I am recomended to keep the rev's @ around 8500 rpm's unless it is in a final and I must have the win .
RodPenrose ·
Here you can see just how much larger the small block ford main bearings are when compared to the std vw thrust bearing . The vw bearing measures in at 55mm and the ford unit is almost 70mm . The idea behind this is to create as much overlap between the main and rod jnls as possible to keep as much strength as possible in the crank . Along with this the ford main bearings are relativley inexpensive and are a steel main bearing for better support and wear .
mactaylor ·
nice nice nice! bout time you showed the rest of them what you have in store! Thanx mate!
RodPenrose ·
In the first pic I have the larger 1/2 diameter headstud and a vw 8mm unit . The 2nd pic is the one piece aluminium modular cylinder assembly . These cylinders are held in place with 6 x 1/2" and 4 x 7/16" cro-moly studs per side . If you notice the top of the cylinder is dead flat and the bottom of the head is also flat as this type of engine will use a one piece copper head gasket similar to what is used on a convential engine . There ia a small groove machined in the top of the sleeves and there is a steel ring inserted into the bottom of the head to aid in sealing in high boost applications . The 3rd pic is the modular cylinder with a std 1600cc piston installed .
Smiley ·
Camo wrote:So this must mean the money I paid you the other day is now involved in this engine, so am I a part owner 😂😂😂😂
Seconded!!
I've got dibs on the heads!! 😀
Smiley 🙂
driftdaddy ·
This thread is awesome.....
stagvee40 ·
WOW.
Can not wait to see how this thing comes together.........keep up the good work!👍👍
beetleboyjeff ·
Excellent. This is one must see thread.
beetleboyjeff ·
Excellent. This is one must see thread.
ttriebler ·
Awesome! OK I have to ask...with all that work creating new heads, why didn't they go for a 4 valve design? Air in and out easier. Is it because that wouldn't be staying true enough to the original 2 valve design?
mactaylor ·
ttrieb! you know the answer! vw vw vw vw vw vw! kind of!
matberry ·
Awesome Rod, thanks for sharing.
😍
TICK ·
1000hp easy
Flintstones ·
Thanks for sharing Rod.
It's great and fascinating to see what will make the ultimate flat four in Oz.
1000hp out of a turbo'd 3.3L? easy done😉
Cheers
D
helbus ·
Now that would make the fully sik HSV and FPV racers dumbfounded at a dragmeet in a stock looking Beetle
SebastienPeek ·
That is definitely the truth Pete,
I can just imagine what their faces would look like.
RodPenrose ·
This is what the block looks like with the crank installed . The Pauter block is a one piece block designed with main and cam bearing caps like a convential engine . The main block has a removable front cover , sump , top cover and rear engine plate as well to complete the assembly . The main bearing caps are bolted down into the block once the crank is installed and than cross bolted for added strength .
RodPenrose ·
With the camshaft installed you can see the amount of strength this engine has . Camshaft removal can be done with the engine still in the vehicle by removing the sump . The roller lifters can be installed later .
JVLRacing ·
Hello mr rodney....i have one Question😎 R u still married😎?
All the Best JVL
Ollie ·
Putting Aussie Vee Dubs on the map! Nice work Rod, I'd love to pop by and see this in the flesh/metal!
HappyDaze ·
Rod, how the bloody hell do you expect me to recover from looking at THAT ENGINE, the other day, when you keep showing pictures of it???????? [👍👍👍👍👍]
Sides ·
I'm not convinced it's a Volksy engine at all... the size, weight and general "chunkiness" of everything... I reckon it's from a tractor or somethin (as in a tractor puller).
😀
Frikken awesome Rod... can't wait to see and hear it run !!!
RodPenrose ·
This is what the block looks like with the front cover installed . In the 3rd pic you can see that I have threaded a hole under the Pauter signature for a camshaft sync sensor for the Motec computer .
vlad01 ·
thats a pretty serious looking drag engine.
ian.mezz ·
ok what sort of fuel going in this ?? and how many litres needed to go do the 1/4 mile???
BeetleJuice ·
The engineering at Pauter is 2nd to none. Must be a pleasure to work on!😎
1303Steve ·
Sides wrote:I'm not convinced it's a Volksy engine at all... the size, weight and general "chunkiness" of everything...
Hi
It uses a brass VW timing gear by the look of it.
Rod the stock crank in that comparison photo looks like the one that I traded in on the stroker for Davids bug.
Steve
RodPenrose ·
Here are the large head studs installed . These will be torqued to 65 ft/lb's rather than the 28 ft/lb's on the vw studs . You can now see the difference in the one piece aluminium modular cylinder assembly when compared to the std vw unit .
Governor ·
Great looking engine but a question?, when do we stop actually calling it a VW engine as there are no parts in this made by VW??
13bwagon ·
Black64 wrote:Great looking engine but a question?, when do we stop actually calling it a VW engine as there are no parts in this made by VW??
yeah that is true there is not stock or moded vw parts
and the same goes for a lot of bug engines not one bolt is vw
matara wrote:Looking forward to reading about this build! 1000hp is Veyron territory in a Beetle!!!
Good luck with the build Rod
Cheers
Steve
yes but it will be way lighter then the veyron !
RodPenrose ·
Here are some pic's with the cylinders installed . The cylinders are installed first and then the piston and rods are installed as one unit as in a conventional engine . In the first pic I have placed a std 1600cc piston in the cylinders for a comparison . Notice how the top of the cylinders are flat and not inserted into the head like a vw cylinder . If you look close , you will notice a small groove on the top of the sleeves . This is machined here because the heads have a steel oring on them that will actually push the copper head gaskets intothe top of the cylinders to create a better seal . The system has been proven at over 50 psi boost .
vw54 ·
I can spot 2 genuine VW parts
the cam lobes are nice
Wired1 ·
How do you cool the cylinders? or is it only for short runs?
Awesome, goes without saying.
Craig Torrens ·
Dizzy drive and the brass gear ??
fullnoise ·
You are mad. But in a good way.
I am speechless. Some would argue that's good too.
We're not worthy, we're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy e're not worthy
matberry ·
Brass drive and circlip
I reckon there are 5 more, unseen though.
Governor ·
What ever it's called you would have to change the title as it's not a VW engine.
Stanley ·
Black64 wrote:What ever it's called you would have to change the title as it's not a VW engine.
here we go
Sides ·
What's the line that JVL normally throws in about popcorn ???
😂
Keep the pics coming Rod... hopefully no veil of secrecy coming down on this baby as Warwick gets closer !!!
RodPenrose ·
Here in these pics you can see how the sump has been machined with a groove for an o'ring seal . The base of the cylinders are also machined for an o'ring so no sealant is required . You can also see a pic of the piston and rod assembled and ready to be installed into the cylinder . I have had a venturie ring made to the size of the bore to make the piston easy to install .
RodPenrose ·
In these pic's you can see the one piece .040 copper head gasket . You can also see the steel o'ring in the head that will push the head gasket into the barrel groove .
VolksVair ·
Its going to need one hell of a tuff drive train to transmit all that HP to the ground, thats one sick puppy, I am enjoying this assembly, thankyou
Paulc1964au ·
Rod,
Looks awesome so when are you planning installing it in my car since you have it at the moment 🙂
whathaveidone ·
Stanley wrote:
Black64 wrote:What ever it's called you would have to change the title as it's not a VW engine.
here we go
My thoughts exactly Stanly. Who cares what engine it is!!! Its based on a VW engine, Its going in a VW based car and will be way better than any thing most of us can ever imagine building!!!! Lets cut all the crap and just look at the photos and read Rods posts. Sorry Rod couldnt help myself😬😬
Camo ·
Rod,
is there a steal o-ring that goes on either side of that copper head gasket, I just cant see in the photos ??
Kev
Sides ·
btw - possibly a dumb question Rod... but is this the actual assembly of the engine we're seeing, or are you just test fitting parts at this point ???
matberry ·
Keep smiling Rod
Those V8 comparisons.....at least the crank, heads and most of the components will 'fit' a production engine. Not the case with the Pauter. Vw based, yep all the way for me. VW....well not much really, but lets face it, who can make 1000hp from a 1600 with a mag case????????
Thanks for sharing the build Rod.
DaveCarter ·
This thing is ridiculous. Can't wait to see it in action at Warwick
RodPenrose ·
I have been waiting on some more fittings to arrive as I have confirmation from the guys @ Pauter to redesign the oiling system to suit my specific needs . The fuel that I will use will be methanol with a shot of nitrous oxide/sunoco racing fuel for some extra kick . This engine only uses 1 genuine VW part , that being the brass distributor drive gear on the crankshaft , and even that has to be modified . I still call it a VW engine as it will bolt to any VW transmission , and with a bit of machining the crank could be installed into a std case , the cam could be used and almost every other part as well . The engine is going together for the final time and when the new components arrive I will continue with the assembly . I have also ordered the new components from Lenco that will allow me to monitor the clutch slippage . I also need to mount the vacuum pump , alternator and the strater motor that is mounted from the engine side now , ROD.
RodPenrose ·
I have received the parts I have been waiting for and can now finish the final assembly . Here is a comparison between a std VW lifter and the Pauter roller lifter . In the last pic is a std VW pushrod and the Pauter dual tapered moly unit .
RodPenrose ·
Here is the Pauter aluminium pushrod tube . It is a 2 piece spring loaded deal that can be adjusted to suit any width engine by re-positioning the circlip in a different groove . These use a std type 1 seal at the engine end , and a larger t3 seal in the centre and head end .
RodPenrose ·
Here are the Pauter billet 1.5 ratio rockers . These are mounted as a pair with 3 mounting points per cylinder for added strength . The total lift will be around 650-660 thou at the valve
RodPenrose ·
This is a look at the inside of the valve covers and the base of the inlet manifold . Both of these have a groove similar to the sump and top cover for an o'ring . This is a far better way to seal two machined surfaces as compared to a paper gasket .
RodPenrose ·
Here you can see the match ported IDA intake manifolds with the nitrous nozzles installed . These are a custom made stainless steel anular nozzle that will spray the gas directly at the intake valve .
RodPenrose ·
Here you can see the rockers assembled on the heads . The rocker assemblies are mounted using 3 x 3/8 bolts per cylinder . The rockers are a roller tip deal and will connect with the hardened valve tips and therefore will not require the use of lash caps . Upon my request , I have had every 2nd valve adjuster drilled hollow to allow more oil to splash around inside the valve cover . This may change on the # 3 and # 4 cylinder valve cover as the vacuum pump will be mounted to this cover and may pull too much oil from the engine .
RodPenrose ·
Here are a few pics of the engine on the stand . Here you can get an idea of of what the finished engine will look like . I have also included a few pics of some of the sensors , cylinder head temp and boost pressure . The flywheel is set up for either a dual or triple disc system .
RodPenrose ·
.
motha ·
Jeez!!!
This is one serious bit of gear Rod.
Can't wait to hear how it goes!!!
How far off is this from making its first pass?
Thanks again for the chat today too.
Unfortunately, the other bug I mentioned about also fell through. So will keep my eye out for a mid-late 50's bug.
RodPenrose ·
The engine assembly is finished and I am now installing and fitting all of the external accessories . The 2nd pic shows the racing alternator mounted above the # 2 cyl and the Vacuum pump above the # 4 cyl is in the 3rd pic . The crank pulleys will be sent away to be anodised and the tirgger wheel for the crank sensor is yet to be mounted , ROD.
BugsyMalone ·
Speechless 😵😵😵😵😵😵
Love to hear the thing purrr, I reckon if you drove past some girls with that they would magically lose their clothes and end up in the beetle 😀
RodPenrose ·
The first pic is the completed nitrous oxide set-up . I have 1 x nitrous and 1 x fuel solinoid per side with the jets being mounted at the nozzle .
In the 2nd pic is how I have mounted the mercury coils to the inside of the intake runners . I have 4 coils with really short leads .
In the last pic you can see how I have mounted the fuel lines from the fuel rail . These lines go to the injectors and keep the top of the engine clear for conrod bearing inspection without removing the engine from the car , ROD.
hellbugged ·
nice how it's all so well planned Rod.......loadsa thought and experience
NOS bottle warmer/blanket i hope
vassy66T1 ·
Wow!!
That looks amazing.
Neat work on taming the snakes (hoses)
Lucky Phil ·
Hey Rod, How is this going. Have you startedd it yet?
bevoracing ·
Wish I could see the pictures.
DylanTheDubber ·
WooooooW Rod! How much are these Things worth?
If i gave you $15k would you build me one?
From Dylan
matberry ·
DylanTheDubber wrote:WooooooW Rod! How much are these Things worth?
If i gave you $15k would you build me one?
From Dylan
😂😂😂
Plus parts🤪🤪
RodPenrose ·
Dylan , here is a break down on the costs ;
new unassembled engine $ 26000
Motec E-888 , M-800 , dash $ 9800
Gt 51r custom turbo by garrett $ 4400
Assorted motec/racepac sensors $ 4700
XRP hose and assorted fittings $ 3800
modified bosch injectors $ 2400
Turbosmart dual wastegates $ 910
Turbosmart blow off valve $ 440
Turbosmart E-Boost 2 $ 700
Turbosmart FPR 1200 $ 550
HPC tc1 exhaust coating $ free
Edelbrock throttle body $ 480
Enderlie DSR fuel pump $ 600
Assorted sizes of tube for intake , exhaust , brackets and machine engine plates , approx $ 1500
Cost of labour to fabricate all necessary brackets , assemble oil and fuel lines , weld intake and exhaust and assemble the engine ? , ROD.
Craig S ·
WOW!! That's a lotta monies!!!
😵💫😵💫😵💫
Probably about what I expected though given what has gone into this.
Looking forward to the day when I can see this fly down the quarter in anger.
STIDUB ·
is it passion or insanity when you keep track of the $$$ 😂 suddenly my build isnt so bad 👍
matberry ·
Prices like that you don't forget. 😎
Not to mention the 'incedentals'.
Thanks for sharing Rod, think of paying ALL labour too. 🤓
Sides ·
Yeah, keeping track of the individual prices is passion... EVER adding them up into a single number... THAT would be insanity I reckon !!!
😀
vassy66T1 ·
Honesty appreciated Rod. Can't wait to hear and see it.
Doug Sweetman ·
Just. Freaking. Awesome.
Thanks Rod, I appreciate the sharing as I will never own anything like this !!!!! As much as I would like to .
Love the o ring seals everywhere I don't think you will have too much trouble keeping the boost inside the engine where it is meant to be !!!!
RodPenrose ·
I am now ready to set the clutch up and install the engine into my new drag car . The flywheel is a custom aluminium deal with an L&T pressure plate and either a dual or tripple disc set-up . To start with I will be using the 8" dual disc set-up and I have attached some comparison pic's against the std VW units , ROD.
RodPenrose ·
Before I start with the clutch I have to install the rear main seal and rear engine plate . The seal is much larger that the original VW seal and to keep this seal in place and to stop it from either blowing out or getting sucked in , I have machined up a seal holder that will house the seal that will be mounted to the inside of the engine plate , ROD.
RodPenrose ·
More pic's of seal .
RodPenrose ·
In the first pic you can see the flywheel mounted , in the 2nd pic is the installation of the 6 x clutch stands the 2 clutch plates and the floater plate . In the last pis is the complete clutch assembly . The clutch has 6 x adjustable stands to set the ring height , as well as 6 x individual springs to set up the static pressure . You will also notice that there is a small bolt and nut mounted at the base of each of the 6 fingers that are used to attach extra weight to in order to make the clutch hit harder at the higher rpm's . The more weight added to the fingers the harder the clutch will clamp the plates . I do not fully understand how it all works at the moment , but this is the most complex part of the entire car and is the secret to actually finding the fine line between clutch slip and wheel spin , ROD.
Flintstones ·
The build is looking great Rod.
When I used to have my worked V8 Commodore, I used to run a centreforce clutch arrangement and it had weights in between the fingers which moved with centrifugal force.
So as the RPM's increase the weights would move outwards and thus adding further clamping force onto the clutch.
This clutch gave me a very light pedal and I was able to use my car as a daily.
Might be a similar situation here...
How many sensor's are monitoring the motor, cause there are a few in the last pic.
Cheers
D
RodPenrose ·
D , I have the following Motec and racepac sensors mounted on the engine for data aquisition only , these will not tune or change the engine tune in any way ;
GT 101 on the crank for RPM's
Motec Cam sync sensor
4 x Exhaust temps
1 inlet air temp before the intercooler
1 inlet air temp after the intercooler
fuel temp
oil temp
oil pressure
fuel pressure
cylinder head temp on each head
barrel temp on each barrel
throttle position
Nitrous fuel pressure
Nitrous bottle pressure
vacuum/pressure for the block { case }
turbo speed
exhaust pressure
Lambda from turbo exhaust
boost pressure
water temp { intercooler water }
I will also have a fuel flow sensor mounted , however I cant seem to find any thing that is suitable yet . Then there are a shit load more on the new car that will monitor the drive line , suspension and chassis , ROD.
RodPenrose ·
Done , and installed , ROD.
Doug Sweetman ·
Looking good Rod !!
Lucky Phil ·
Hey Rod. How about an update?
tar76 ·
😵 That motor is insane 😵
dangerous ·
should be just about running I reckon!
RodPenrose ·
Due to the amount of people that have told me that the engine looks shit hot apart from the rusty turbo housing , I have now received it back from HPC in Vic . I will bolt the turbo and dump pipe on tomorrow , and if I finish polishing the nitrous fuel tank and the catch can I will try to start this tomorrow . I will post some pic's then . I have also received the initial tune from Paradise Motorsports in the US and have installed it into the Motec ecu ready to go , ROD.
hellbugged ·
oohhhh how exciting 👍
Flintstones ·
Vid's please👍
Cheers
D
Ollie ·
Rod, I would love to race you in my 1500 Single Port.
NO but seriously Im excited for this!
RodPenrose ·
I have installed this engine into my new car and it has been on the dyno for a couple of days to sort out the tune . After 3 days I ended up with 475 HP @ the wheels on 18 lb's of boost . According to the Dyno operator this equates to 680 HP , but I would say closer to 630 HP . We tuned it on 7 lb's , 10 lb's , 14 lb's and finally 18 lb's of boost and the tune is perfect according to the lambda sensor . This is about half way of where I will finally end up with in the regards to power .
On it's first outting on the 1/4 mile a couple of weeks ago the engine was perfect and never missed a beat . I have a crank pulley seal that is leaking and will now be replaced and all of the pressures and temps look good . The car went 9.26 @ 141 mph and I am happy with the engine at this power level . I will run the car again in a couple of weeks and I will increase the boost by another 5-10 lb's once I am comfortable that the clutch settings will handle it . I will also try to dyno the car before I go out in a mid December , ROD.
h ·
👍 cool but INSANE
DubLeg ·
That's how you build engines. Any videos yet?
tar76 ·
Couldn't squeeze this motor in with the manifolds you send up to me next week Rod??? 😂😂
TorxKiwi ·
DubLeg wrote:That's how you build engines. Any videos yet?
There are a couple on YouTube, search Rod Penrose. That thing is a beast!!!
RodPenrose ·
I have spent all week on the dyno and have sorted a few issues that have been thrown my way . After breaking the drive shaft , damaging the car and suspension a little , popping out the pinion bearing seal in the differential , over heating the diff and hosing oil everywhere , I ended up with 550 HP at the wheels and over 1000 ft/lb's of torque . This was the end result with over 25 dyno runs and finally just over 31 lb's of boost . The new dyno is reading really low according to the operator and he says about 750 HP is where we are at now . I would calculate it to be around 680 , but I will know more when I hit the track for the Sydney Showdown this weekend . I have done the usual maintanance and found some fine metal flakes in the oil filter , so I have removed the engine and dismantled it for a precautionary inspection . I will post pics of what the inside of the engine looks like , ROD.
RodPenrose ·
I have now found that I have been running the engine way too lean so I have added some 35% more fuel and it looks like the reliability I am after is finally here . I ran the engine 2 weeks ago and had some fuel pressure issues that turned out to be an incorrectly installed fuel pump . I have fixed this and will now give it another run this Saturday at WSID . I am now using somewhere in the region of 13 litres of fuel per minute at full throttle . I have been looking @ some more data and now with just over 600 hp @ the wheels and 32 lb's of boost the intake temps are still around 76 degrees before the intercooler and 36 degrees after the cooler . I have not yet started to fill the cooler with water or ice , ROD.
Doug Sweetman ·
Wow killer intercooler....
Allbones ·
So when will this be available for street use? Ahhhhhhahahahahaha.
RodPenrose ·
Well , it has been a long time between up-dates here so I will let you know where I am up to . I have ran the car a few times and with about 40 odd runs on the engine it seems to be very reliable . I did have an issue with the rockers with one breaking on me that I cannot find a reason why . I have installed a new set of the next generation Pauter rockers and went down from the 1.5 ratio to the 1.4 . I have upgraded to some larger diameter pushrods that are now 1/2" - 9/16 ' - 1/2' one piece swaged units due to the pushrod flex I was getting from the 900 lb's of spring pressure .
The main bearings are perfect and I have now replaced the conrod bearings due to normal wear . I have also changed the piston rings to a new custom total seal combo that is working well also . The engine is now @ 38 lb's of boost and around the 800 HP mark . The engine in a car that weighs 2013 lb's or 915 kg's , is now going 5.13 @ 135 mph on the 1/8 mile and 8.12 @ 164 on the 1/4 mile . I am still yet to use the intercooler and with more runs and more tuning I am sure there is at least another 100 + HP left in the combo before I start to increase the boost again . The engine tune according to all of the data is actually getting richer at the top end of the track and this is starting to restrict the power and speed of the car . With every run we are learning about more about the engine and last time out Owen accidently added 1 degree extra of timing and the car went 6 mph faster . I am still probably about 6-7 degrees away from where I should be , but we will be slowly sneaking up on it to prevent any failures . ROD.