I've been looking at a 74 bus with a 1600cc in it.
Are these vans worth much less than if it had a 1800 or 2 litre in it?
Hanzelz ·
Aussieveedubbers · Busses
1600 vs 1800/2 ltr
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/91768/1600-vs-18002-ltr
Andy ·
Condition and spec (deluxe/std etc) of the bus would have more impact on price than the motor.
I'd guess 1800 would be more desirable in a '74 but don't thinki it would affect the price greatly.
Both motors are fine matched to the right gear box, 1600 would be cheaper to re-build if required (and cheaper to upgrade if you want), 1800 would have a little more torque.
2L didn't not make it into bus's until '76, so not original for '74 (pre'74 was 1700 also)
I'd guess 1800 would be more desirable in a '74 but don't thinki it would affect the price greatly.
Both motors are fine matched to the right gear box, 1600 would be cheaper to re-build if required (and cheaper to upgrade if you want), 1800 would have a little more torque.
2L didn't not make it into bus's until '76, so not original for '74 (pre'74 was 1700 also)
4kombiswilldo ·
Most people look at the car and the price first if not knowledgeable about kombi,s.
The 1600 would detract some experienced vw buyers, but theres more to the cars than just the motor.So its the overall car would determine the price and factor in the motor cost ,
to up grade if needed later on.
Ive had kombi,s with all the different air/oil cooled motors.
If you are doing a lot of long distace driving, cant beat a 2ltr and matching box.
Doesnt rev as hard to reach top speed and cruises on 110lkms.
1800 seem a little slugish similar to 1600 although quiker speed pick up.(torque)
A 1600 with an 1800 box is my second choice .Higher freeway gear ratio so less reving.
You could build up it up to 1776 later on with descent carbies and exhaust.
Agree with andy on rebuild costs, saying that 2 litres tend to last longer that a 1600.
You can always find an old rusty bug and swap the 1600 motor over with and adapter plate $35 which is a bonus on the 1600.
The 1600,s go alright once you get them up to speed.
Ive got a 1600 box an 2ltr motor in my ute.Great lowdown torque for towing as it was set up for.Will sit on 110klms but restricted with 1600 box. Sitting on 3500rpms.
All in all you can always pick up descent motors for sale on here later on as an upgrade.
Spend your money on a good minimal rust free base and fix the mechanics as you go whilst on the road,depending on budget of course.
Rust repairs an repaint at panel shops can be around $8/$10k+ ouch depending on base.
Hope this helps.
chuck
The 1600 would detract some experienced vw buyers, but theres more to the cars than just the motor.So its the overall car would determine the price and factor in the motor cost ,
to up grade if needed later on.
Ive had kombi,s with all the different air/oil cooled motors.
If you are doing a lot of long distace driving, cant beat a 2ltr and matching box.
Doesnt rev as hard to reach top speed and cruises on 110lkms.
1800 seem a little slugish similar to 1600 although quiker speed pick up.(torque)
A 1600 with an 1800 box is my second choice .Higher freeway gear ratio so less reving.
You could build up it up to 1776 later on with descent carbies and exhaust.
Agree with andy on rebuild costs, saying that 2 litres tend to last longer that a 1600.
You can always find an old rusty bug and swap the 1600 motor over with and adapter plate $35 which is a bonus on the 1600.
The 1600,s go alright once you get them up to speed.
Ive got a 1600 box an 2ltr motor in my ute.Great lowdown torque for towing as it was set up for.Will sit on 110klms but restricted with 1600 box. Sitting on 3500rpms.
All in all you can always pick up descent motors for sale on here later on as an upgrade.
Spend your money on a good minimal rust free base and fix the mechanics as you go whilst on the road,depending on budget of course.
Rust repairs an repaint at panel shops can be around $8/$10k+ ouch depending on base.
Hope this helps.
chuck
helbus ·
A big engine Type 4 engine (1700, 1800, 2lt) bus can have a Suby motor slip straight in with no cutting at all whatsover. Something that makes the big engine busses more desirable also.
I have a heavy right foot and like acceleration and cruising, so the 2lt would be my pick.
For fuel economy the 1800 with a 2lt box would be good. We had this setup originally and got 10lt/100 km easily on the highway.
I have a heavy right foot and like acceleration and cruising, so the 2lt would be my pick.
For fuel economy the 1800 with a 2lt box would be good. We had this setup originally and got 10lt/100 km easily on the highway.
Andy ·
Enginebay is the same regardless of the motor. The engine bay changed in '73 to allow the type 4 style motor to fit in. Both motors fit fine in the later bus's.
helbus wrote:A big engine Type 4 engine (1700, 1800, 2lt) bus can have a Suby motor slip straight in with no cutting at all whatsover. Something that makes the big engine busses more desirable also.
I have a heavy right foot and like acceleration and cruising, so the 2lt would be my pick.
For fuel economy the 1800 with a 2lt box would be good. We had this setup originally and got 10lt/100 km easily on the highway.
baywindowbandit ·
That's not the case is it? The later bays had a different valance where the tin wear sat higher on the left hand side.Andy wrote:Enginebay is the same regardless of the motor. The engine bay changed in '73 to allow the type 4 style motor to fit in. Both motors fit fine in the later bus's.
Joel ·
They are all like that from 72.
The last of the low lights with the later tail lights had the type4 engine bay but if they had a 1600 engine it just had a massive breast plate tin to fill in the gap.
The last of the low lights with the later tail lights had the type4 engine bay but if they had a 1600 engine it just had a massive breast plate tin to fill in the gap.
porrerahopeful ·
Had a '74 bus with the 1800 and the auto box. great once you got to 100km/h but oh the fuel consumption. A mate had the '75 with a manual...much better proposition in all respects!!!!