Hey all.
I picked up my bug the other night. Pretty stoked with it.
I found it on Carsales, rang the guy up and went up to the Sunshine Coast to take a look. It was in amazing condition so I snapped it up.
It has a fresh 1200 motor and came with a heap of receipts from work done over the years. Including the original purchase receipt!
Well, here she is. There is stuff all rust. A little around the deck lid seal, and the bottom of the decklid itself.
I just ordered a heap of parts including a complete lowering kit from Airkewld, wheels from ebay, and exhaust, roofrack and mirrors from Classic VeeDub.
Hurry up Postman!
Camo ·
Congratulations, looks like a great buy. Also looks good, but will look even better with the said mentioned parts 😀😀😀
Make sure you keep us updated as it progresses 👍
Kev
5lam ·
After looking at the receipt from 1964, and looking up the VIN, it seems that its most likely a 1964 model.
Am I right? According to this it is - http://www.vw-resource.com/years.html#1961-1970
It was registered as a 1962.
Camo ·
Just realised this is your car after adding something in the for sale/wanted section. Definitely looks like a 'standard' model, part roof lining, no glove box lid etc. Have a look at your chassis number under the back seat, the 3rd digit will tell you what year. eg, if 2 its a 62, if its a 4 then a 64 model etc.
Kev
5lam ·
Chassis number is on the 1st pic. 6262669
Joel ·
Yep that's 64, last year of the sequential chassis number system.
Mrs Acton was a cheapskate and bought the pov spec model 😂
Its a standard, just had some of the trim replaced with chrome stuff.
Ben386 ·
Yeah saw this on Carsales,good buy!
5lam ·
Sweet.
The guy had it listed on Carsales for over a year he reckons and no takers. Can't understand why. It's going in for roadworthy on wednesday, as it doesn't need anything 🙂
5lam ·
The first lot of goodies arrived this morning from Classic Vee Dub!
Stainless merged headers - I ordered basic steel ones as they will have to be modified to suit the 1200 engine, but these arrived! I guess I'll have to get them TIG welded! 😁
Stainless Phat Boy muffler
And Swan Neck mirrors, and Stainless Headlight Eyebrows.
Theres 1 more part on backorder, that should be here by the end of the week apparently.
5lam ·
More goodies!!
Empi GT 5 spoke wheels, and nuts, and a pair of 155/60 Smart Car tyres for the front.
Just gotta suss out what size I'm going to run on the rear.
5lam ·
Got the front tyres mounted and the rims fitted... 😁
5lam ·
Got the rear tyres fitted up and now all the rims are on the car. I'm just using the standard rear tyres for now, until I find something suitable.
I'm thinking maybe a 185/65.
And as well as the Empi T-Shifter I had left over from my old Baja, I had these smoked clear lenses. I thought I'd chuck them on and see what they look like. I think they suit it.
Can't wait to get rid of that big gap between the tyre and guard!
5lam ·
My roof rack arrived Thursday avo, so I put that together straight away and dropped it on.
And I bolted up my Swan Neck mirrors.
I also got given a box of different coloured Metalflakes, so I'm thinking I might spray the roof....
surfpig ·
How do you find the swan neck mirrors?
And do you have to chop the trim much?
waltermitty ·
I lived around the corner from Youngs of Collaroy . Its a tile shop now i think.
Nice looking beetle . Look after him.
mmmm... How can I say this?
PLEASE DONT METAL FLAKE IT
It deserves better in my opinion.
Mitchell
5lam ·
surfpig wrote:How do you find the swan neck mirrors?
And do you have to chop the trim much?
They're fine! I can see just as well out of them. Its good, because you just glance down at the corner of the winscreen 😎
You need to chop 50mm of the trim, just so the first hole is exposed, and the mirror sits over the rest of the trim.
They don't come with any washers though, so I grabbed 2 largeish washers, and 2 spring washers so they won't come loose.
surfpig ·
yeah cheers, i was thinking about them. but ive just realised that they wont be good on my car cause i ve got a spotty sitting on my bonnet.
ill just get some normal ones🤓
gerggl ·
Very nice ...... a bargain!!
grogy ·
look nice i saw it at pitstop ashmore. it look even better wen it match the plates
5lam ·
grogy wrote:look nice i saw it at pitstop ashmore. it look even better wen it match the plates
I'm really looking forward to getting it closer to the ground!
Unfortunately there's 6-8 weeks turnaround on the beam, plus 10-14 days shipping.
All worth it though!
5lam ·
Started working on a new parcel shelf last week. Got it all cut out, and mounted some 6x9 speaker spacers on it. This will all get trimmed and look like one piece.
Then friday morning, she had a dummy spit and wouldn't start. After a little fault finding, I found it had no spark on cylinder 3 & 4.
A trip down to GC Veedub, and I came back with new plugs and leads, and a new 009 dizzy. It runs now but seems to be lacking power and doesn't feel right, so it's off down to GC Veedub to get a good service.
OldTimer ·
Love it, good pick-up.
Don't agree with the metal flake, but to each his own.
Looking forward to more posts in the future.
Old Timer
OldTimer ·
Oh yeah, aren't you scared some little shite will knock off the mirrors? (I mean break off, not steal - if you see what I mean?)
They'd sure look tempting to some half-brained yobbos I'm sure.
Old Timer
5lam ·
OldTimer wrote:Oh yeah, aren't you scared some little shite will knock off the mirrors? (I mean break off, not steal - if you see what I mean?)
They'd sure look tempting to some half-brained yobbos I'm sure.
Old Timer
Yeah, I did wonder about that, and also people knocking them off accidentally, but I HAD to have a pair. Lol.
I'm not so sure about the flake either. I was mores trying to break up the monotony of the blue, but I think I'm going to 2 tone the bottom of the doors white. It'll look better IMO.
5lam ·
Oh and after a real good service down at GC Veedub, she's back to her old self, and runs a lot better now, thanks to Dave!!
surfpig ·
cant wait to see this new beam on it, how narrow you going?
5lam ·
4"
Narrowest I can go and still have shocks.
surfpig ·
Yeah nice, mines 4.5" with shocks.
It's gonna look so much better though!
5lam ·
What beam are you running??
surfpig ·
Rancho deluxe, they are based down in bendigo I think.
kempos ·
BlackBug wrote:Started working on a new parcel shelf last week. Got it all cut out, and mounted some 6x9 speaker spacers on it. This will all get trimmed and look like one piece.
Nice... I'm working on one similar. I'd really like to see how you mount or fix it in place. Are you putting in a sub as well (underneath perhaps) ??
5lam ·
Yep, I'm putting in a 12" Sub. Basically just using a small angled alloy tab at either end, and one in the middle. The sub box is a snug fit and will support the centre.
kempos ·
I hate you!!!😁 sooooo jealous!
Can't wait for the pics of it all in (soon I hope 😁 )
5lam ·
Okay, so the box turned out to be an inch too high to clear where I wanted the parcel shelf to sit, so I cut the box down a bit, and put a new front piece on it also. I cut the sub hole into the angled part of the box (which was originally the back), so now it sits perfectly and follows the angle of the seat.
Realistically I should've just started from scratch!
Kempos - I'll put pics up of how I mounted the shelf soon
5lam ·
Got the sub box modified to fit neatly in the rear. Retrimmed it with some spare Spiderweb pattern material I had from a past project.
Perfect fit.
Out with the old.....
In with the new.
DylanTheDubber ·
The Car is Cooool as but wait! the number plate is 5LAM but its stock ride hight? Slam it slam it slam it! 😎 i hope thats whats coming next.
From Dylan
SebastienPeek ·
Doesn't that have a rear AUX cable?
Should be fishing it through the glovebox, boom.
Hidden.
Just my two cents.
5lam ·
It has a rear aux and a front aux and USB port. I definately will be running an aux cord from the rear into the glovebox though.
I'm counting down the weeks til my lowering kit gets here! Last I looked my beam was just about to hit the jig!
SebastienPeek ·
Yeah, definitely needs that rear auxiliary to the glovebox!
That sounds extremely exciting, can't wait to see 5LAM scraping 😉
5lam ·
Just a random pic my girl took at The Spit on Sunday. I like it 😀
5lam ·
Well, I'm still fiddling with the stereo install at the moment.
I'm trimming the parcel shelf and speaker pods with some temporary material until the whole interior gets done.
The speaker trim rings I hit with some grey vinyl/plastic dye so they blend in a little better.
And I've order some amber foglights, a safety star, and I scored a popes nose rego plate light for it also.
Here's a couple shots I took yesterday down in Burleigh 😵💫
thebullfrog ·
Where are you getting your lowering kit from? Those mirrors look awesome =)
5lam ·
It's coming from Airkewld in the US. All their beams are made to order, which is why there's a long turnaround time.
blink ·
this is one sexy looking bug
5lam ·
Thanks Blink!
Amber Foglights installed.
5lam ·
More goodies!
Scored an early 'popes nose' rego plate light. No broken studs, and I managed to get the rusty old nuts off without breaking any myself! haha
And more goodies from the VeeDub Online Store.
popes nose seal, door handles and window winders, and a bonus set of valve caps! Score! Can't recommend these guys enough. Very helpful too.
5lam ·
Got one door done. I'll finish the passenger door this avo, then I've just gotta mount and wire the amp, and trim the parcel shelf.
surfpig ·
BlackBug wrote:It's coming from Airkewld in the US. All their beams are made to order, which is why there's a long turnaround time.
how narrow did you go?
5lam ·
4"
thebullfrog ·
How are you working around the legalities of the 4inch narrowed, im hopefully order the complete lowering kit soon =)
5lam ·
thebullfrog wrote:How are you working around the legalities of the 4inch narrowed, im hopefully order the complete lowering kit soon =)
I think the cops would have to be pretty cluey to pick up on it.
4" Shouldn't make a huge difference, plus I will still be running shocks. Any adjustment to the track or wheelbase is illegal anyway, so even a 2" beam would get you a ticket.
They'll be more interested in the ride height I think.....
thebullfrog ·
Thats what i was thinking, who would want to pick on a beetle when there is a commodore doing nuts up the street. How would you go when submitting a mod plate application, or not bother at all??? Chances of being caught are so low
5lam ·
thebullfrog wrote:Thats what i was thinking, who would want to pick on a beetle when there is a commodore doing nuts up the street. How would you go when submitting a mod plate application, or not bother at all??? Chances of being caught are so low
I don't think it's a legal modification, hence not mod plateable.
You could always speak to a few engineers first.
5lam ·
Picked up my new motor last night! Scored a good 1600TP complete bottom end, and a stuffed 1200 complete motor on ebay.
I plan on buying new everything for the TP, and the both of my 1200's (one seized, one good runner) will be up for sale shortly.
Also, my Safety Star and gearknob arrived, so I'm working on mounting the star, and making my shifter extension at the moment!
Things are coming along nicely 😵💫
5lam ·
Well, it's all happening.
I ordered a crap-load of new parts for the new motor! New tinware, carby, manifolds, alternator, you name it! 😎
My beam is in Powdercoat as of last week, so thats probably not far off now, and also ordered some sweet Drop Spring Plates from Jer-Fab!
Safety Star is mounted and hooked up, and I've started the shifter extension.
Pics up soon. Photobucket is playing up at the mo 👎
surfpig ·
Sounds good mate,
I'm keen to see what these drop plates look like. I was gonna buy some but decided to notch mine instead. Which size did you end up going?
5lam ·
surfpig wrote:Sounds good mate,
I'm keen to see what these drop plates look like. I was gonna buy some but decided to notch mine instead. Which size did you end up going?
Here's the bracket I whipped up for the Safety Star.
Mounted up...
...and wired.
Shifter extension started
I tweaked the bends a little more afterwards, as it hit the windscreen in 1st and 3rd 😂
And I scored some old school suitcases to go with my Malleys Esky
5lam ·
Woohoo, my goodies from Airkewld arrived!
4" narrowed Ultimate Beam, and narrowed tie rods.
2.5" drop spindles, new king pins and bushes, shorter front and rear shocks.
Narrowed torsion springs and new bushes.
My 1600TP is home now. Just need to find time to fiddle with it.
I thought all my engine parts would be here by now, but I haven't seen anything yet.
AndrewB ·
How much did those drop plates set you back including shipping?
Been on the fence about grabbing a set of those...
Nice looking car!
Big fan of fog lights.
thebullfrog ·
i shall be ordering my goodies from airkewld soon!! The same lowering kit for my 70 and the BAD stage 3 kit...im pumped =)
AndrewB ·
How much did those drop plates set you back including shipping?
Been on the fence about grabbing a set of those...
Nice looking car!
Big fan of fog lights and roof racks.
5lam ·
AndrewB wrote:How much did those drop plates set you back including shipping?
Been on the fence about grabbing a set of those...
Nice looking car!
Big fan of fog lights and roof racks.
The drop plates are $200 for 2, 3, or 4" drop, plus $85 shipping
thebullfrog ·
Have you got your new beam and that in yet? I'm keen to know how the install went. =)
5lam ·
thebullfrog wrote:Have you got your new beam and that in yet? I'm keen to know how the install went. =)
Don't I wish! I'm not sure that I'll get to install it til the xmas holidays. I'm allowing a full weekend to drop the front and rear, as i want to tidy up a few things before reassembly.
If I do get a free weekend then i might get it done sooner, but I can't see that happening.
thebullfrog ·
Ah okay, thats unfortunate, how long did it take to get from US to aus? does the beam making process take long? I will take body off when i do all mine =) make life easier.
5lam ·
Yeah, as they're all made to order there's about 6 weeks turnaround on the beams.
Worth the wait though.
Theif you're just after a beam tho, hit up DownUnder Beams.
I just couldn't have the car apart for longer than a weekend so it made more sense to buy a kit with everything done ready to roll
thebullfrog ·
Im going lowering kit and disc brakes haha, so all is good =) I'll order as soon as pete is back from bug jam ( a few days) and then anxiously wait.
Bit hot for roof racks these days! Unless its water skis???
Keen to see it with the beam done.
thebullfrog ·
GedMcCormick wrote:Dave
Bit hot for roof racks these days! Unless its water skis???
Keen to see it with the beam done.
I am also keen to see the beam in, will you clean up the ski racks or anything?
5lam ·
They don't really need cleaning up!
One pair has been installed on a vehicle and used before.. It has broken straps from the weather. The other pair is mint and hasn't been installed or used before.
I'll probably sell a pair on, as I won't use both.
5lam ·
Well it took me the entire weekend to do it, but it's now low....
Old beam vs 4" Narrowed Airkewld Beam
Stock spindles vs Airkewld 2.5" Drop spindles
Before and after Springplate Notching (my Jer Fab spring plates haven't arrived yet, so these are temporary.
And this is how it sits.....
Yep, too low! 3 splines is way too much in the rear, so It's going to come back up to better height. I need to be realistic as its a daily driver.
Looks cool though....
hellbugged ·
cool ride!
telf ·
Nice mate. Looks real clean. Where abouts are you on the goldie?
surfpig ·
thats a whole heap better!
cool ride dude
captainvw ·
Will be a fun ride in the wet 👍
5lam ·
Raised the rear up a spline yesterday, and i'm going to bring the front up just a wee bit.
I live at Pacific Pines, Telf, and work in Ashmore.
NUG637 ·
bout time that thing saw the weeds 😎
5lam ·
NUG637 wrote:bout time that thing saw the weeds 😎
Haha, I know. I usually only get enough free time for a bit of tinkering, and this was a weekend job, so I'd been waiting for the opportunity for weeks.
bens1964vw ·
thats so badass
PHAT BUG ·
It's amazing how any car can look sooo much better when Narrowed and slammed!!
Well done champ, love it😎
Dasdubber ·
Looks sweet slammed mate.
Let me know if you need any more Airkewld products as we are the official Australian importer/distributor. We have some more stock leaving in the new year including an air ride kit or two.
Cheers
Al (Burleigh Heads)
5lam ·
I was very tempted to bag it, as thats what I do for work.
I am seriously considering air shocks for the front now though.
J BOMB ·
so much better 🙂
5lam ·
Threw together a before & after pic.
I've since raised it up a little. Still waiting on my drop plates, so i'll fiddle with the height more when they arrive. I've decided air shocks are definately going in the front.
bens1964vw ·
does that sticker say drifting is gay? haha
Camo ·
Man, the car is looking great. You have really made a big difference from before until now photos. Congratulations👍
I have been thinking this for quite some time, but your number plates 0-SLAM make me automatically think of Islam. Not meaning to put you off, it just pops into my mind every time I see your car 😂😂😂😂😂
Anyway, you have done a great job and should be very proud every time you are driving it or even when it's sitting still.
Kev
5lam ·
bens1964vw wrote:does that sticker say drifting is gay? haha
Yep, haha!
And Camo, it's not the first time someone has told me that!
Mattriots ·
What's the blue plastic thing on the bonnet and where do I get one!!!!
Super1302 ·
neat ride you have there. 👍
5lam ·
Mattriots wrote:What's the blue plastic thing on the bonnet and where do I get one!!!!
It's a wind deflector. They pop up on eBay every now and then.
AndrewB ·
hahaha love the drifting sticker hahahaha
man that bug is looking sexy now, nice work!
Have your jerfabs shipped yet?
5lam ·
AndrewB wrote:hahaha love the drifting sticker hahahaha
man that bug is looking sexy now, nice work!
Have your jerfabs shipped yet?
They were waiting for me when I got home from work yesterday avo. Hopefully I can put them in this weekend.
I need to do axle boots, and brake master cylinder too.
AndrewB ·
Sweet, Looking forward to hearing how those go
5lam ·
Big pile of parts, waiting to find their way onto the car!
AndrewB ·
well thats one way to make us jealous 😠 lol
brendanwright ·
Blackbug dude, which Jer Fab springplates did you put on your ride...2, 3 or 4 inch?? Also, with the current ride height, what's the clearance from the lowest part of your guards to the ground on front & back?? I have a 58 beetle that has been narrowed/lowered in the front & also has notched spring plates on the back & sits quite low, but it doesn't sit quite as nice as yours in the ass end...so just wondering if i can get the measurements from you so i have something to work towards.....thanks mate, hope to hear from you soon.
Paulc1964au ·
love the progress
TCS_58 ·
This is coming along nicely, can't wait to see your suspension setup finished, I have a 58 too so you're giving me lots to think about 😁
5lam ·
brendanwright wrote:Blackbug dude, which Jer Fab springplates did you put on your ride...2, 3 or 4 inch?? Also, with the current ride height, what's the clearance from the lowest part of your guards to the ground on front & back?? I have a 58 beetle that has been narrowed/lowered in the front & also has notched spring plates on the back & sits quite low, but it doesn't sit quite as nice as yours in the ass end...so just wondering if i can get the measurements from you so i have something to work towards.....thanks mate, hope to hear from you soon.
I've actually gone back to standard springplates, which i'm going to extend.
The Jer Fab spring plates I had were 3", which are fine if you only want to drop the height of the springplate, but i was trying to get 5.5-6" total drop, and they don't cater for the toe in caused by a drop that big.
I'll have to get some measurements for you. I raised the rear back up until I can extend the springplates, so i'll let you know when it's back down.
brendanwright ·
sweet, thanks mate. Look forward to hearing these measurements. Looks real good sitting down low.
5lam ·
The brakes went out on the old girl just before christmas. I replaced both front brake cylinders, but it turned out it was the master cylinder.
As most shops were shut for the holidays, I hopped online and noticed that Classic VeeDub were still shipping. I ordered a new master cylinder, and an alternator backing plate.
They arrived yesterday 😵💫😬
Anyways, since we've had torrential rain for 2 days straight, I got started masking my new engine tinware for paint. This is to go on the 1600TP.
Masking checkers is a PITA, but I'm sure it will be worth it.
Also dug out some of my spare air ride parts, left over from my old Golf Buggy. I'll get started mounting this stuff soon.
5lam ·
Finished masking the tinware last night, and hit it with some white paint.
Also cut the second set of spring plates (thanks Craig!)
A mate of mine is going to TIG weld them for me sometime this week.
So basically they get welded on the existing spring plates to extend them by 1/2"
Lachlan VL ·
hey blackbug those springplates u bought do they make your wheels camber ?
5lam ·
Lowering a beetle in general will result in camber. Its just the way swing axle VW's are.
Craig Torrens ·
Glad you got the springplates all ok 😎
Love the tinware 👍
Lachlan VL ·
may be quite interested in these and do u know if they would camber with modded z bars. my 69 bug has some issues with clearance on the back guards so this would be ideal for me if would make camber.
5lam ·
Unfortunately, the only way you'll get rid of camber is to either raise the transmisson, or convert it to IRS.
All the extended springplates will do is correct the toe-in from such a big drop.
tar76 ·
Well done mate your bug looks sic!!
Lachlan VL ·
thanks for that really helped me with my situation
bugboymatt ·
Nice turn around from stock to modded. Great work mate.
5lam ·
Had some Pinstriping done yesterday. Not everyones cup of tea, but I have always loved the look of it.
matberry ·
👍👍👍
westi ·
tin ware look's cool as.
captainvw ·
Don't forget to notch em ,i did mine with 6mm scrap steel and Migged them nice and hot drove on them for the next year with out any hassles .....nothing better than driving in the wet with confidance [img]https://www.postimage.org/aV1lbc0i.jpg[/img]
Thats badass CaptainVW!! Whats the reason for the notch? Isn't there enough adjustment in the factory holes? I was under the impression that you only needed that extra 1/2"
I might attack mine with my MIG then. I'll probably weld along the top and bottom too though.
Any info on your tranny raise? I'd like to keep rubber mounts in mine if possible as I drive it daily.
captainvw ·
Raise was 2'' if you end up doing this only go 1 5/8 as that is the same amount as the bus nose cone (thats used to keep the hockey stick in the tunnel) and keep it level.
I elongated the holes so i had adjustment etc i went from 5mm longer minimum to around 1/2 '' i just liked the idea if being able to have some adj in there
If you dont notch the standard plate you wont go any lower than 2 splines with out the spring plate hitting the housing
captainvw ·
Have a look at these pics might make more sense
Stolen from KCW pics curtosy of Franz
This is for 2 outer notches. Includes notched spring plates for a nicer ride 8)
Ah, yeah, I've already notched mine just like that.
Is there any particular bus nosecone I need, or just any bay window one?? And do I use the matching hockey stick as well?
Thanks for the info
captainvw ·
Pre 68 Nose cone you can just re dimple the O.G. hockey stick
5lam ·
surfpig ·
you left a bit of tape down 😉
came up pretty good, you gonna give the engine a coat too?
5lam ·
I'm just going to give the block a good clean up.
There's a fair build-up of grease and crap on it
DieSchnelleKafer ·
where do you buy checkered paint like that?
bugboymatt ·
DieSchnelleKafer wrote:where do you buy checkered paint like that?
hahahahaha……….. Classic….
5lam ·
DieSchnelleKafer wrote:where do you buy checkered paint like that?
It's usually at the back of the hardware store, along with the Skyhooks, Left Handed Screwdrivers, and Buckets of Compressed Air. 😂
Went over to my mates Fab Shop yesterday. Pulled the springplates out and got to work extending them.
They are now 1/2" longer to correct the toe in. Big thanks to Benny @ 3rd Dimension Race Fab for laying down some killer TIG welds! Some of his work is pure art.
The only problem I have now that I measured the height, is that the drivers side has obviously sagged a little, and sits about an inch lower thean the passenger side. Anyone know how I can raise one side the equivalent of half a spline??? 🤪
beetleboyjeff ·
There are a different number of splines on the inside end of the torsion bar than there is on the outside end of the torsion bar.
Moving the inside 1 spline one way, and the outside 1 spline the other way changes the angle of the torsion bar by 50' of a degree, so you can get the angle quite accurate.
If you take both sides just out over the stop at once, and let them hang on the torsion bars with no tension on them, you should be able to look across under the car and check that they are both at the same angle.
This whole procedure is set out in workshop manuals, or there are threads on here that go into this is depth with photos. Do a search.
5lam ·
Got it, so at the moment I'm +1 inner, -3 outer = 4.42 inch drop.
If I rotate the lower side +6inner, -5 outer it will equal 3.44 inch drop, and give me the inch I need.
5lam ·
Finally got the car all level, and happy with this ride height for now. Until it goes on air ride anyway 😂
For those who asked for measurements I hope these help
The rear sits at 115mm, and the front at 85mm. Both measurements taken at the edge of the guard, so obviously the floorpan and beam etc sit a lot lower, but that will give you something to compare to yours.
Front
Rear
And a few up-to-date pics of how it's looking.
brendanwright ·
Looks tops mate, nice work.
69bug ·
Looks great! Love it!!
5lam ·
I bought a steering boss the other day (thanks Calcool!)
Drove all the way up to Brissy to pick it up, and i was pretty bummed when I got home, and it wasn't the same bolt pattern as my wheel 👎
So, I figure I could MAKE it fit.
I marked out the bolt pattern of my wheel on to the Boss.
Set it up in the drill press and drilled a bunch of 4.8mm holes.
Then tapped it using my el-cheapo tap & die set, with a 1/4 tap
And hey presto - the wheel fits, and now its a multi-fit steering boss. haha
cressy75 ·
great read mate
givin me some ideas for mine when it gets started
5lam ·
Thanks Cressy.
I'm really working on getting the 1600TP finished and in, now. Picked up a pair of Dual Port Manifolds, which I just need to clean up. Only a few more parts now, and I can start putting it all together.
Got some stainless gravel guards too.
I've been thinking a lot about engine cooling also, for when the new motor goes in. I don't want to cut vents into the decklid. The new W lid is fibreglass, so I can't even get louvres punched in it. I'm thinking this might be a solution though. Cutting 3 x 3.5" holes behind the rego plate, then spacing the top of the plate out, so it acts as a scoop (kinda). This would let hot air escape when in traffic too, and would be pretty well hidden.
Your thoughts? Am I on the right track, or do the vents need to be at the top of the decklid?
thebullfrog ·
Thats a solid idea, well hidden and definately worth giving it a go.
5lam ·
Might try it on the original decklid for now, since its toast anyway 😂
squizy ·
Nice build thread. I was going through it and saw you cut the door cards and went "nooooo". but as I kept reading the rest of what you'd made me go "stuff it, nice stance". Good work hombre.
Joel ·
BlackBug wrote:I've been thinking a lot about engine cooling also, for when the new motor goes in. I don't want to cut vents into the decklid. The new W lid is fibreglass, so I can't even get louvres punched in it. I'm thinking this might be a solution though. Cutting 3 x 3.5" holes behind the rego plate, then spacing the top of the plate out, so it acts as a scoop (kinda). This would let hot air escape when in traffic too, and would be pretty well hidden.
Your thoughts? Am I on the right track, or do the vents need to be at the top of the decklid?
Hot air only escapes out the bottom of the engine, the decklid vents are only for the fan to draw in fresh air, and with a doghouse 1600 engine in you definately need some sort of venting.
Behind the plate will be fine, or just prop the bottom open abit, it's only so the fan can pull in enough air.
It's a very common mod in the Germanlook world for the number plate to be spaced out and vents behind:
5lam ·
Thanks Joel, thats the sort of thing I was going for! 👍
5lam ·
Well, still going trying to get the 1600 finished. I'm hoping to have it in within the next 2 weeks for my trip down to Port Mac. Someone should buy my 1200 engine! 🙂
Pretty much done cleaning the engine up
And have started putting bits and pieces back on
Last few bits and pieces arrived Monday. Just need plugs, leads, belt and j-pipes now.
And I shot some clear on my tinware.
My fuel tank sprung another leak. After bodgy quick fixes 6 times now, I'd had enough and needed to get the new tank sorted.
I had a Herculiner bed liner kit left over from a previous project, so I decided to coat it with that. It's a rubberised coating like Rhino Liner and its indestructible!
Old Tank!
New Tank, and the bedliner kit
Done
It's good being able to put a full tank of fuel in, and not worry whether its leaking out or not. haha
5lam ·
Well it doesn't look like i'll have the engine in in time. I think I'll have the motor all together, but I won't have enough cash to get it installed with a new clutch and trans mounts before next weekend.
It's coming along..
Also picked up a nice ratty reverse light. (Thanks Al!!) Just needed a new bulb. Anyone know if there's a way to hook this up so it comes on when reverse gear is selected?? Or are they normally just hooked up to a manual switch on the dash?
Also scored a pair of ski's for my ski rack. $5 on ebay 😁
Joel ·
That #4 exh pushrod tube looks fairly fubar.
You get a pretty epic oil leak when the rod rubs through.
Now's an easy time to replace them.
If you're lucky there may be a bung in the nose cone of the tranny for a reverse light switch.
Some people rig microswitches on the shift rod coupler but a toggle switch is the easy fix.
Dasdubber ·
Good to see the light still works mate. Depends on your gearbox - on the nose cone there should be a reverse switch (looks like a an oil pressure switch but with two tangs)....later boxes had them but not early. If you don' thave the switch on the gearbox you'll have to manually switch it on the dash.
Al
5lam ·
Yeah all the pushrod tubes look pretty average. I'm yet to pull the heads and replace all of them, and give them a clean. I will probably leave that to GC Veedub also.
I'll have to get under and have a look at my gearbox. Thanks guys 😉
nrh_racing ·
Out of interest do you think the rear end is softer now that you have lengthened the arms.
The reason i ask, i have done the same, added half an inch. i reckon it has dropped slightly but now is softer, it makes sense by making the arm longer it has more leverage hence softer but didn't know if i was dreaming 😉
If so is there heavy duty torsion bars??
5lam ·
Hmm, not that I've noticed. I know what you mean, I'm just not sure it would make a notable difference.
5lam ·
Went down to Port Macquarie for a Minitruck show last weekend. Brought home a trophy for best old school. Pretty stoked! She ran really well there and back too.
And this weekend I did this....
Pretty happy with how it turned out. Exactly how I pictured it.
hellbugged ·
Gotta love a rattle can two tone 👍
looks good
ClockworkMonkey ·
looking good! how did you learn to do all this stuff? is it your trade? or just years of tinkering?
tar76 ·
Are you still going to cut the holes in you deck lid??
5lam ·
My old man was a mechanic, and I always used to watch him at work, and help him out. Always been around cars, and tinkering so it was a natural progression really!!
Still going to do the decklid. Car is booked in for the 19th to get the motor put in, so I need to do it before then.
5lam ·
Last lot of parts for the TP.
I tackled the pushrod tubes last night, and I must say they were quite easy. I had a quick read through a couple of how-to's with the spring loaded pushrod tubes, and it seemed that everyone struggled with them. I didn't have any dramas at all. Nice and easy.
Out with the old...
In with the new.
Also, I really hate the slip joints on most VW exhaust systems, so I whipped up a couple pairs of flanges, and had a mate TIG them on for me. No leaks here!
5lam ·
Well, bar a few tweaks that GCVD will sort out, the engine is together. It gets dropped off this avo, then the car goes in tomorrow, so I should have it back Friday. Can't wait!!
hellbugged ·
Cool as.
Man i'm feeling sorry for that poor muffler already
matberry ·
hellbugged wrote:Cool as.
Man i'm feeling sorry for that poor muffler already
x2 in both respects......
Keep up the good work.
Lachlan VL ·
very good lookin motor x3 respect for muffler
5lam ·
Yeah I'm not sure the Phat Boy muffler will be staying long. Looking at other alternatives now.
Joel ·
I ruined several quiet packs and hot dogs on mine and it was never anywhere near as low as yours.
The Euro Tri-mill systems give great ground clearance on lowered cars and are fairly loud and obnoxious if you liked the fatboy.
5lam ·
Not so much after loud and obnoxious, just something with a nice tone, that looks cool.
I love my Phat Boy... Such a wicked sound, Even if it does scrape occasionally
5lam ·
I totally forgot. I did the decklid Wednesday night in preperation for the new motor.
I marked out a bunch of holes behind the plate, and cut them out with a 54mm holesaw.
I made a couple 30mm spacers from some aluminium tube I had, and bolted the plate back on, with a piece of mesh behind the decklid. The mesh is simply held in place with the plate bolts.
And you can't even tell unless you're standing right above it. Still unsure as to whether it's best to prop the top of the plate, or the bottom, but I'll see how it goes.
5lam ·
Its in! So happy. What a difference over the 1200. From going up the hill on the way home in 2nd gear, to being able to cruise up it in 4th. So good!!
It's backfiring a lot, and running rich, so I might have to get it looked at again this avo, but hopefully it just needs a couple minor adjustments.
Muffler hangs waaay too low, and would tag the ground on takeoff, and changing into 2nd. Its for sale if anyone wants it....
Went to my mates shed on saturday and whipped up a temporary fix until my new system comes.
And just chillin with my mates Golf
hellbugged ·
Yeah looking sweet as! Good vision and execution on this ride!
Yep yep new motors exciting hey....
Just finishing a big bore single port for my stocka and looking forward that fresh paint baking for the first time smell... Never gets old that!
thatshimofficer ·
I always planned to go lower with my beetle, but ran into similar issue's to you. My engine cost me way too much money to risk ripping exhausts and cases to pieces. There is video of my exhaust VERY close to the ground on a mild launch, so a hard launch when my traction issue's are fixed will see my exhaust dragging the ground...
Looking forward to seeing what exhaust you run permanently...
5lam ·
Can't seem to find the exhaust I want in Aus, so I'm getting a friend to ship one over for me. Haven't seen one on a car here yet, so I can't wait to get it. Has even more ground clearance than a stock muffler
AndrewB ·
Joel wrote:I ruined several quiet packs and hot dogs on mine and it was never anywhere near as low as yours.
The Euro Tri-mill systems give great ground clearance on lowered cars and are fairly loud and obnoxious if you liked the fatboy.
Where did you get this? loud and obnoxious and clearance tick all my boxes haha....
Dave come tell us about the boo boo you had with your manifold today lol
SebastienPeek ·
Bahah yeah, where's the photo of the manifold issue... 😉
5lam ·
Okay, I should explain what happened there.
GCVD said they didn't have any clamps for the intake boots, and said i'd just have to look elsewhere for clamps. I used hose clamps which seemed fine, but obviously weren't as they split the boots. I thought they would've either replaced the clamps or at least told me they were wrong when I dropped the motor off, but nope. He still managed to come up with 4 of them when I went in yesterday.
So this happened...
Now the paint on my tinware is fucked from the fuel, but it still doesn't run right. Still coughing and backfiring. I'm really pissed
matberry ·
Problem is the boots not the clamps.
5lam ·
They reckon those red ones @ $11.50 each were better than the black rubber ones @$5 each, as they lasted longer.
I just put another set in. I didn't want to cheap out on anything and regret it later.
Stanley ·
If they were split that could be the source of the backfire and miss. Is it better with the new ones?
5lam ·
Nope, still runs like absolute shit. So pissed off. Back to GCVD again this avo
thatshimofficer ·
What size motor did you put in it?
D-train ·
Looks good mate, pity about it been temperamental..
5lam ·
Its a 1600TP.
Thanks Dion. Looks like I got it sorted though. Turns out my coil is frying the points. I knew it would bite me in the ass. The only second hand part I used on it - of course it had to be stuffed. lol
Johnnie B ·
What muffler have you ended up ordering? The best system for your set up would either be a complete sidewinder system which is headers and muffler. Otherwise you can do what I have done in the past. Get an exhaust place to make you a pipe that comes from where your headers merge (at the 3 bolt plate). Bend the pipe 180 degrees and run the pipe forwards, throw on a muffler and dump the exhaust out in front of the back wheel. You just have to get crafty when you take the pipe past your rear axle but it works really well and if done right will never hit the ground.
Joel ·
AndrewB wrote:
Joel wrote:I ruined several quiet packs and hot dogs on mine and it was never anywhere near as low as yours.
The Euro Tri-mill systems give great ground clearance on lowered cars and are fairly loud and obnoxious if you liked the fatboy.
Where did you get this? loud and obnoxious and clearance tick all my boxes haha....
It's just the tri-mill ceramic coated Euro twin tip system.
Empi do a knock off but it has smaller baffled tips so not as loud and I don't think in ceramic coated or stainless and most people complain the fit is terrible and they end up noisy in short time.
George sells them:
ive got a similair empi system to the one that joel posted,
its on my 1500 single port and sounds great for some reason ahahaha
5lam ·
I'm getting one of these. I don't think there's anything else out there that can offer as much ground clearance as this, and I love the look of it.
DreamWeaver ·
For my daily I have used two exhaust's of the years (appart from stock)
Nice loud one for shows 09'
It was stock empi GT twin system, now its known as the "Evil Twin"
and the one I've got on now, keeps the police happy 😉
Header is a euro twin tuck away and muffler is a modified bugpack hide out muffler.
Muffler lines up with the bottom of the heat exchangers - max clearance
surfpig ·
ive got the same empi gt twin except no shark tail,
this is my opinion so you dont have to listen to it. but i think that exhaust in the video is shit, looks wise. i reckon a nice clean ass looks better then two poles sticking in it...
thatshimofficer ·
I agree with ya Surfpig.... Looks horrible... And I reckon systems that don't merge sound crap as well... But each to their own...
5lam ·
DreamWeaver wrote:For my daily I have used two exhaust's of the years (appart from stock)
Nice loud one for shows 09'
It was stock empi GT twin system, now its known as the "Evil Twin"
and the one I've got on now, keeps the police happy 😉
Header is a euro twin tuck away and muffler is a modified bugpack hide out muffler.
Muffler lines up with the bottom of the heat exchangers - max clearance
I have those merged headers now, and they're still causing problems scraping on everything. I really like the tips on the first one.
Already ordered the thunderbird exhaust anyways, so I'll decide whether I like it or not once its on the car! At least I won't have to worry about hitting it on anything, anyway.
I do value everyone's input though. Thanks 😎
DreamWeaver ·
Not all merged headers where created even 😉
One of the ways I found out which header to use was to check the space between the collector to the top primary
see images bellow:
Normal header: 1/58 collector, 1/38 primarys
'Euro tuck away' header: 2/58 collector, 1 1/2 primarys Note space between collector and top primary bend
DreamWeaver ·
ya dig? 😉
Side on veiw when fitted
dubster ·
Very nice Dave love that exhaust of yours
5lam ·
DreamWeaver wrote:ya dig? 😉
Side on veiw when fitted
Ah I see.
This looks badass!
hellbugged ·
Yeah I did the hideaway for a while..... Good for angle jobs u drive ways etc but had to be real careful rolling down off speed humps cause it's right behind the axle line
It's demise was hitting an old timber bridge a tad too fast, suspension squatted and the leading square edge caught the head of a bridge bolt. The bridge didn't have much "give" in it 🙅
5lam ·
hellbugged wrote:Yeah I did the hideaway for a while..... Good for angle jobs u drive ways etc but had to be real careful rolling down off speed humps cause it's right behind the axle line
It's demise was hitting an old timber bridge a tad too fast, suspension squatted and the leading square edge caught the head of a bridge bolt. The bridge didn't have much "give" in it 🙅
Haha, thats exactly it. Like I said, my main reason for the Thunderbird system is the ground clearance it offers. Even the old stock muffler scraped on driveways and speedbumps. Sure I could raise the car, but where's the fun in that??
DreamWeaver ·
Think it can be safely said that skill and forethought is needed when driving a low VW regardless of its exhaust system 😉
matberry ·
DreamWeaver wrote:Think it can be safely said that skill and forethought is needed when driving a low VW regardless of its exhaust system 😉
👍👍👍
hellbugged ·
Oh yes indeed
It's amazing where you can get them using those couple of vital accessories
5lam ·
DreamWeaver wrote:Think it can be safely said that skill and forethought is needed when driving a low VW regardless of its exhaust system 😉
Did you just call me crap? 🥲😂
I'm pretty good with lining up driveways and gutters, but it's always going to hit something!
5lam ·
Not much to report here.
Had a good time at the GC Veedub show. My first VW show with my car. Interior was nowhere near ready in time, but hopefully by the next show.
The new exhaust arrived friday, thanks to one of my club members from the US. Saved me $150 on shipping!
Gotta make up some flanges for this system now, but should have it installed by the weekend.
And my housemate just bought himself a 70 Ragtop. At least he was told it was a 70 anyway. Its still swing axle rear. I thought IRS started from 69 on? So now I have another beetle to slam. Looking for another beam to buy so I can narrow it.
Joel ·
It's only US bugs that went IRS in 69, Oz stayed swing axle.
It was only Superbugs and the last 76 bugs that got IRS.
dragsters for life ·
DreamWeaver wrote:Think it can be safely said that skill and forethought is needed when driving a low VW regardless of its exhaust system 😉
damn straight, i ended up using a motor bike muffler and we made our headers from the 3 sets i had destroyed, you learn fast
5lam ·
Well, after 4 hours of cutting, modifying, and welding we finally got the new exhaust on. None of it lined up right.
I'm pretty happy with it though. Nice note, and lots of clearance.
5lam ·
Weird question, but can anyone tell me the ID, OD and thickness of a swingaxle rear wheel bearing??
Joel ·
Zorst looks good, although get ready for the joys of burned shins 😉
DreamWeaver ·
Should sound pretty tuff, nice work 😎
hellbugged ·
BlackBug wrote:Weird question, but can anyone tell me the ID, OD and thickness of a swingaxle rear wheel bearing??
Can do tonight.... Or the part number if that's easier. It's been rear axles for 3 months now at my place, bearings everywhere ya look!
hellbugged ·
Nachi or fag 6306
19mm thick
30mm I.D
72mm O.D
You can get sealed ones to run on ya low lowered swing axles as well apparently
5lam ·
Thanks Daimo! I had a part number for sealed bearings, and just wanted to double check the size, as I'm going to try and source them locally rather than wait for them to come from OS.
It started making a real bad grinding noise yesterday, so I parked it up until I can fix it.
5lam ·
Finally picked up a pair of new sealed wheel bearings. Decided to grab new rear flexi brake hoses, and wheel cylinders while it's all apart, so will probably attack it this weekend.
These are the bearings I got. Should last longer than a standard bearing!
Finally got me a visor too, thanks to AndrewB 😎
vassy66T1 ·
Very cool 👍
dragsters for life ·
love the muffler set up boss, i think it looks tight
5lam ·
Well I spent all day saturday on it. Got the bearings replaced, and all the axle seals, and new brake cylinders (lucky cos one was leaking pretty bad!)
The RH Bearing was toast!!
Shiny stuff
Also got the clutch cable tube repaired. Thanks to all that helped me out with that one. That worked a treat!
Though when I took it for a test drive around the block, it started making a squealing sound when I got to the end of the street. It sounds like the RH rear wheel but I can't be sure. I put everything back together exactly how it came apart, and had a manual with me to double check, so I don't know what it could be!
Any suggestions? I only have 3 weeks left to get it all up and running, and reliable to make the trip to Gosford and back.
5lam ·
Well I'm really kinda stuck, and bummed at the moment.
After a lot of messing around and pulling the hubs apart 3 times now, it would seem that my fulcrum plates have slipped behind the axle, and are causing a bad wobble in the rear end, not to mention noisy as.
My local Veedub mechanic seems to think I'd be better off buying a new box as it may have damaged something internally now, but I really can't afford it. Even $1000 to do the fulcrum plates is gonna take a while. Is my mechanic right??
matberry ·
Ouch. Is he right??? that's a hard one. If the wheel wobbles, has heaps of run-out, and when jacked up the wheel doesn't rotate smoothly by had I'd say he's on the money. As for damaged internally, chances are pretty good.
lowvwbug67 ·
i had the same problem with my and it was the box. id say his on the money but do check before you go removing your gear box as to what mattberry has said.
77dual ·
Just read through the whole thread, nice work mate 😎
5lam ·
77dual wrote:Just read through the whole thread, nice work mate 😎
Thanks mate 😊
Had a bit of a name change from Blackbug. Most people know me as Slam from my plates and other forums, anyway, plus my bug ain't black. 😂
Picked up a 1500 box on the weekend. Made me a bit happier, but I've still gotta find some $$ to get it installed. I also need a nosecone and hockeystick for it if someone has one. It has Split Bus ones on it at the mo.
driftdaddy ·
5lam wrote:Had some Pinstriping done yesterday. Not everyones cup of tea, but I have always loved the look of it.
questions
who did your pinsriping? It looks awesome!
5lam ·
It was done by Scotty Makin, Beatniks cc
63ragtop ·
that gearbox is setup for a gearbox rise/bodydrop, I'm just saying.
😉
5lam ·
Yeah, I know I should probably do it, I just didn't want to solid mount the box as its driven regularly
5lam ·
Well I hate to do this, but she will be up for sale shortly.
lowvwbug67 ·
Thats not good news champ. Good luck with the sale tho
5lam ·
Jamie from Kustom Kombi has offered to take a look at the gearbox, so he's gone for sleepovers with Laila. 😁
5lam ·
Well it turns out it has a bent axle, and axle tube, along with chewed fulcrum plates, and damaged axles. Still not sure how it happened, but it didn't have anything to do with my bearing debacle anyway. The side gear is also stuck in the gearbox. Turns freely but won't come out!
So, out comes the motor, ready to swap in a new box. Fun and games.
5lam ·
Got the old box out. Boy was there some crud under there!
Me cleaning the rest of the dirt and gunk of the rear horns.
And this hitchhiker was living in a nest above the box! 🤪
New box is now bolted up. Now we can drop it back down, crack the hub nuts, and swap my brakes and bearings over. 👍
hellbugged ·
Just be careful pulling the bearings out that the axle doesn't move out allowing the fulcrum plates to fall out of posi again
5lam ·
hellbugged wrote:Just be careful pulling the bearings out that the axle doesn't move out allowing the fulcrum plates to fall out of posi again
Lol. Yeah I won't be doing any of that! I have a professional on hand! 😎
5lam ·
Well, it's back on the road again. Felt good to be able to cruise it again!! I can't thank Jamie from Kustom Kombi enough for all his help.
As soon as I got him back, I started on the headlights. I got some aftermarket crystal headlights from ebay. The bezels were a terrible fit, and I broke one of the lenses, so I hopped online and bought some Porsche lenses.
I pulled the inner rim out, removed the lense, shot some black paint then started masking off more checkers.
Then I shot it with some white, removed the remaining tape, and sprayed a coat of clear over the lot.
Glued the new lenses in (I just used some black windscreen sealant), and re-assembled them.
Before
After
Just chillin at a mates shop, helping him put up his new signage.
waaagh ·
I love this car. You've done a great job with it. I just have 2 questions, what size are the the rear tyres you have? I don't think it has been mentioned anywhere. Also, are the wheels you have 15 x 7?
h ·
looking schweet!
lurve the checkers 😉
5lam ·
They are just stock size 165 R15. I think thats a 165/80? And the rims are just 15x5
waaagh ·
Are the fronts the same? It's just that the rears look chunkier than the fronts, well to me at least
