The time has come to spend some time on my baja and build the car that I have wanted it to be since i bought it about 8 years ago.
The origional plan was the repair the current body to a solid but not pretty state, throw some new paint on and keep on driving. Since removing the Baja kit tonight and doing some digging with a screw driver it has become apparent that it will be too big of a task to be worthwhile. There is a lot of rust in this body! New plan is to find a donor body and do whatever minor rust repairs are on that, switch my gear over and paint.
My floorpan is solid luckily, Engine is great and gearbox was built a couple of years ago. Front end needs new link pin bushings but is already cut and turned so all in all the pan will get a nice freshen up with some gloss black, new bump stop rubbers, front end will get rebuilt. Already has new KYB gas shocks all round.
I have invested in a little Mig welder and will be making some changes to the roof rack and bar work.
Roofrack will house 2 7" Spotties, a shovel and the spare wheel.
I will be shortening the rear cage as it is designed for a 4 into 1 exhaust and leaves a hideous departure angle. I will also be adding tabs for lights as i will not be running VW lights but round mounted lights much like you see on most American style Bajas. My experience with old VW tail lights and indicators has not been pleasant.
My Saas seats will be recovered in black and red vinyl to match the Leather seats in my 944. I will also be painting the car in Guards red or as close as I can get. The Fenders and rear scoop will be black, as will the bar work. Wheels will stay Powdercoated white.
Since then i fitted Wide guards and fitted a cut and turned beam and Custom Vee Dub had a gearbox buil;t for me and fitted Long axles. I put on some wide stockies on the rear with some Federal Mud Terrains and some Standard stockies on the front with All terrains. Also fitted some Saas Bucket seats and removed the horrible interior and made up some Checkerplate door cards.
Got home from work this afternoon and didnt really feel like doing much but I ended up Removing the front Bull bar, Bonnet Hinges, Washer resovoir/switch and pump etc, Wipers, Wiper motor assembly and Glove box.
I Also managed to wedge some sheet metal between my left thumb nail and the fleshy bit = Not fun.
I removed all the Body/chassis bolts bar the ones under the fuel tank and the 2 at the rear that bolt through the shock towers. Whats the trick to get these rear bolts off? I cant fit the socket wrench head in the gap. I tried a swivel extension but that didnt work either. I Could probobly get a box end wrench on them if it remove the rear wheels but I am a little worried that the force needed to budge them will knock the car off jack stands.
Fuel tank came out
front Chassis/body bolts out
Steering Coupler disconnected
Brake fluid resovoir disconnected and removed
Rear shock tower chassis/body bolts out
Also ordered my lights from CBPerformance and some side mount indicators from ebay
I dont have a big enough screw driver to remove the doors, And I am doubtfull ill have much luck with them. Previous owner seems to have rounded off the heads. Just like everything else is over tightened and stripped Grrrr
ctefeh ·
Nick,
If the door hinge screws are already knackered, you might want to try welding (with your new Mig 🙅) a good qual nut onto the bung hinge screws (Inside the nut onto the screws) and rip into the nut with a socket set for example. If the nut snaps off the philips screw...no real harm done. Better line up some free time as you won't be able to close the doors until they are done!
If at all possible, get as many out first without welding....
I started with an Impact driver, and when that failed I drilled 'em. I didn't care about the body though!
Usual stuff about welding...heat destroys paint, no bare hands going touchy etc & watch out for getting flashed...
HTH
Ctefeh
vwsteve ·
if you know someone with an oxy set heat the screws right up red hot, then cool and they should come undone
Anthiron ·
I might try that. I don't really need thaws Doors anyway.
If someone wants the red shell. Come get it before it goes to sims.
1303Steve ·
Hi
Just drill the screws out to 8 mm, works every time.
Are you allowed to use lights on your roof in Qld? In NSW they must be no higher than the headlight centre height, but nobody seems to worry about it down here.
Steve
Anthiron ·
Lights on the roof are illegal. I will have them hooked to a plug under te dash. If I get pulled over I can then prove they are for offroad use only. Hence not connected.
Both good ideas for the doors. Thanks guys.
Only thing left on the body now is the hardware in the passenger door. Should be all out by tomorrow night if I have any energy left after work.
bajachris88 ·
Sick car to start with 👍 looks great.
If ur rebuilding from this, i can only imagine the beast factor once your finished. Gonna be schmick! good on ya Nick!
what rear tyres are you running out of curiousity? they look pretty serious.
If no one claims your free body too soon, you could do some MIG practice 🙂
Anthiron ·
Thanks for the kind words chris.
Can you tell me what mods u had to do to fit your body lift?
The tyres are federal 235 muddies I don't remember the model name ATM I'll post it up for you soon. Fronts are 195/85 r15s federal all terrains. Both have been fantastic tyres.
Stoked to find no rust in the pan at all.
bajachris88 ·
nice stuff 👍
only mod for body lift was repositioning and welding of the steering column conduit tube through the front firewall. Was a pita to access with an angle grinder, a jig saw worked better but the blade didn't last long. but once the conduit was cut out and a bit of metal below it removed to drop it down a bit on the firewall, i fitted the whole steering setup together for proper positioning then welded the conduit up, disassembled teh steering and tidied it up with some fibrefill and paint.
I bought some tube to cut into 2 inch pieces as body spacers for all body bolts apart from the floor halves, and a couple dozen of longer bolts of course.
Factory wiring loom and stock TMI carpet kit had enough excess/slack to not require any adjustments for the lift kit.
Fairly straight forward, i was lucky enough to purchase the floor channels already prefabbed. Although i had to cut and shut rear channel for the kombi box gear selector shaft.
Now you got a welder mate you can do anything 🙂
Anthiron ·
I think I will look into the lift kit while I have the body off. How much did you pay for yours if you don't mind me asking chris?
Body is now completely stripped. So if no one comes to pick it up it will go to sims.
Need to borrow a gurney to clean the crud off the pan etc then I'll start rubbing it back for paint.
Anthiron ·
Last night I gernied and scraped some of the crud off the frame horns and frame head. Unfortunately I got a small amount of water in the tunnel. I'll have to get some moisture absorbing beads to throw in there.
baghall ·
Well done anthiron looks like your moving fast on this. Certainly showing me up on mine. I gotta get onto lifting my body as well.
Anthiron ·
I am just trying to ride the initial wave of enthusiasm baghall 🙂 hopefully it lasts!
Anthiron ·
Well the old body has gone to start a new life as a cube...
I Started wire wheeling the pan halves today and found a few holes in the battery tray. It has already had a new tray welded in at some stage as you can see. I guess I shall weld in another.
Will have a gearbox, 1500 engine, link pin front end, floor pan, stock wide 5 wheels, 60's glass, etc for sale soon.
Anthiron ·
Well Imageshack doesnt want to work for me today so perhaps pics of progress tomorrow.
Wirewheeled most of the pan halves now. Hav'nt started on the frame head or horns etc yet.
I am waiting for the Fuel guage I want to come back in stock before completing an order from CIP, Urathane bump stops, Guages, Beam supports, Door mounting hardware, and lots of other small things. Want to get this stuff while the dollar is strong. It will save me a bundle on VDO guages etc.
The carpet kit, rubbers, Lift kit etc will come from VOLLKS or Classic when the time comes.
Going to throw some paint stripper on the new body on Monday, See what sort of hidden nastiness i find. Turns out there is a lot of bondo in the front Quarters. I am not looking forward to ripping it out. Once I know what I am in for with the body i will finish the pan before I bother with it again.
Anyone who needs anything from a 67 beetle let me know as I will be using the Body Shell only.
Nicko
ancientbugger ·
Looks like you've really got the bit between your teeth, good on you. BTW Nick if you're anywhere near my place over the weekend drop in and check out Micks baja.
Anthiron ·
Hi Barry, I will be working all weekend but will probably be down that way on monday arvo if you will be home?
Yeah it has kinda sunk in that I am past the point of no return now🤪
ancientbugger ·
Me and Mick will be home at about 4.15 pm drop 'round. Gotta check out your 944 just don't wind Mick up about his ricer😀
My brain is overloaded from wph+s paperwork today so I havent done any work on the baja.....Maybe later.
Sounds good Barry
Anthiron ·
Just ordered some support braces for my front beam, locking nuts for the front spindles, new seat belts, VDO oil pressure guage and sender, mounting screws for the doors from CIP 🙂
Anthiron ·
Sick as a dog today barry, I dont think ill make it.....Maybe wednesday? does that suit?
ancientbugger ·
Not a hangover Nick!!! Sorry to hear that but yes Wednesday is good.
Anthiron ·
Not a hangover, Just the flu. On top of that I had a Self insurance saftey audit today at work. Luckily we did fairly well on that.
To cheer me up though this was waiting for me at home, Thanks CBP 🙂
Does anyone know where I can buy Rust Bullet? Preferably online or over the phone for delivery
Anthiron ·
PS Barry can you PM me your number. I have lost it
ancientbugger ·
I think my PM is playing up, I've just tried twice and it's telling me I'm trying to save it (?) anyway my home number is 5449 1031 and my mobile is 0412 115193.Looking forward to seeing you Nick👍
Anthiron ·
excellent Barry. Ill give you a call before I pop around. Need anything for Micks Baja? im trying to clear out my stash of parts now that I know what I am using and not using.
Well my neighbour came over this afternoon with a big box from CIP for me that had been misdelivered. So It was a good afternoon for packages!
I will have to try to bolt it down to the pan bending/shaping as I go. then tack weld the peices together. Once it is joined where it will be when the body bolts on I can fill the hideous gaps and weld the seams etc.
Anthiron ·
Got the lift kit bolted directly to the pan today. Had to widen 2 bolt holes in the rear piece. pulled about 2 inches of bend out of the side pieces.
Haven't made any huge breakthroughs the last few days.
Bought a little C02 Cylinder for the Mig.
Had a bit of a practise
Tacked the lift kit together and removed it from the floorpan
Scrapped the battery tray repair I had as I had not removed enough of the rusted metal and was blowing through. Have now cut a bigger section and am having success with plug welding the new peice down (I have overlapped it about 1cm on each side) I will then be welding mounts for the battery box to this new larger section.
Picked up a bit of scrap 1mm sheet from a metal place around the corner to use for finishing the lift kit.
Back to work tomorrow 🙁
Anthiron ·
I Have booked in 2 weeks Holidays from work starting on the 21st of November.
Hoping to have the floorpan painted and lift kit finished and ready by then so I can spend 2 weeks on the body.
I Might be ambitious but I would like to see the bare body back on the pan by the time I go back to work on the 5th of December.
Aiming now to be finished by Dubs by the Pie 2012
Anthiron ·
Well my welds are not the prettiest but they are solid.
Battery tray is in. Needs a bit more cleaning up but it feels good to have successfully welded something 🙂
Just need to find something to use as a good strap mount to weld front and rear of the box for a safety strap.
Still needs a good tidy up.
PS: I blantantly plagiarised this from Smiley. Hope you dont mind mate. It was just such a good idea.
Nicko
Anthiron ·
Just ordered a 75Amp Alternator, Stand, Clamp, some under the pushrods tinware peices, blue leads, blue dissy cap, blue lead seperators, Degree Pulley, Tinware set screws and Alt pulley. From Classicveedub
Going with a Blue theme on the engine. Will be ordering some blue billet Pieces from airkewled in the USA when funds permit.
Anthiron ·
Well a package from CVD came yesterday. It seems i have received a Chrome Alt instead of the Raw one I ordered. Also was charged for the crank pulley I ordered but It was not in the box....
I got the rear pieces done and seam welded the joins where the side pieces bend before I ran out of CO2. So I shall continue tomorrow.
Anthiron ·
Got a new CO2 Cylinder today and did some more welding on the lift kit. only have the topside of the front passenger join to do now. I Also spent about 2 hours grinding down the welds to smooth.
This also turned up express post from george (he forgot it in my last order) looks like he doesnt have any raw Alternators so I will have to settle for the chrome one.
I have started cleaning up the ttinware. Need to get a furniture trolley or something to move the engine outside to start cleaning it up. Also need to find a puller to remove the Crank pulley to fit the degree pulley.
Was hoping to have the pan halves painted by now but ended up having to make a couple of trips to brisbane on my days off chasing an injector for the 944 after number 3 started leaking. The guys at T + D say they have never seen one leak from the base before.
Have fun removing all the lining clips hehe, i just shaved all mine recently,
Bought two different spotweld drill bits... ended up removing all the clips with a cold chisel with a fairly extreme grind, got all the rows of clips off in one piece though lol
great fun! 😁
Anthiron ·
Big shout out for Mick (1916Baja) for the great job he did on my seats.
some peices of flat bar to use for the light mounts and the supports for the spare wheel. The half inch threaded bar is for the spare wheel mounts and the 5/8" threaded bar is for the shovel mounts on the side.
It's great to see this thing getting some love.
Saw it for many years cruise past my place in mooloolaba. Baja's may change appearance over the years but always live on.
In regards to the steering tube/body relocation for the lift kit. Leave it where it is and use 2 uni's down to the steering box, by moving the box position on the beam even a little your bump steer will be terrible. I made this mistake many years ago, and it took bajawes to set me straight on steering geometry.
Good luck with your build and look forward to the end result,
Anthiron ·
Thanks for the tip Nils. I hadn't even thought that far ahead yet!
ancientbugger ·
Hey Nick I think it's time for an update I'm getting a bit cold turkey for some piccies!😁
Smiley ·
ancientbugger wrote:Hey Nick I think it's time for an update I'm getting a bit cold turkey for some piccies!😁
Seconded!!
More updates please!!!!
Smiley 🙂
Anthiron ·
Ok I have been Slack!
No excuses really. just been lazy.
Since my last update I have managed to sell my Porsche
And just because I couldnt help myself, a few Billet engine assessories and other bits and pieces from Airkewled.
Also removed the front end yesterday and gave it a good scrub ready to drop off to Pete at Custom Offroad next week to do the KP Bushes and a few other things. Then it will get a seam weld treatment and a coat of gloss black.
You're not clearancing the framehead for the lond tie rod droop? It's a nessicary mod if you want more down travel on the front. Unless you go to rack and pinion steering 🤓
Smiley 🙂
Anthiron ·
Yes I was wondering if anyone would notice that.
I remembered to do that after I painted it........ Oh well. Not a lot of harm done. Easy to repaint.
I'll wait untill I have the front end back to get the angle right for the Long tie rod.
Smiley ·
Make sure you get some good solid welds.
When I was starting to do my buggy pan a long time ago the way I marked it out was to bolt an assembled frontend onto the floorpan.
Then set the steering on full lock one way. Mark where the long tie rod is with a paint pen/whatever you want. Then turn the steering to the other lock and mark it again. You will find the long tie rod will be forward on one and back on the other. It moves quite a bit forward/back during steering.
You can then use these marks as the limits of where you need to scollop the framehead.
Sorry I don't have any pictures, I hope the description isn't too confusing.
Smiley 🙂
Anthiron ·
Sound advice smiley. Will do.
I have a mate who's a boiler maker. Might get him to do the welding on the frame head.
Anthiron ·
Sand blasting done! Body is naked...... Well it's in primer now.
Not too
Many surprises, a pillars which I knew abOut didn't get any worse after blasting.
Couple of spots inside passenger heater channel, passenger rear quarter has a 50c sized spot. Couple of other spots here and there but over all quite pleased.
Can I cut the heater tubes that run under the rear seat and weld up the holes? Or are these important structurally? I will
Not be running heaters and it seems silly to have extra metal for no reason.
Pics soon. Gotta race to work. Posting this on my iPhone.
Smiley ·
Anthiron wrote:Can I cut the heater tubes that run under the rear seat and weld up the holes? Or are these important structurally? I will
Not be running heaters and it seems silly to have extra metal for no reason.
I did when I was building Alyce. Gives you more room under the back seat too.
Picked up my front end yesterday from Pete. Everything is nice and tight, ready to go. Custom long tie rod ready to go on and top shock mounts drilled for bolts.
Also picked up my barwork Hoops (One for the front bar, one for the roof rack and one for the rear bar), and my new mirrors 🙂
Keep it coming! I like to hear all the advice and see pictures as well.
Anthiron ·
Work has been slow on this of late.
Did a big Garage clean out and now I have a much better area to get some things done!
Put the front end back on last week and started cleaning up the brake backing plates and the drums (The only origional parts going back on) new shoes, Cylinders, springs etc all arrived.
I have an inner bearing race stuck on the drivers side sprindle which I have managed to get some movement out of but have yet to get it off the spindle. Gave it a good soak in WD40 and repeatedly heated and cooled with a torch.
Once this is off and I have the backing plates painted I will reassemble the brakes and get the wheels back on so I can measure the area to be scalloped out of the frame head to clean the long tie rod. Then the whole assembly comes off again to cut and weld the frame head.
Also sanded, primed and painted the seat rails.
Back at work for another fortnight now so I will keep at it next R+R.
ancientbugger ·
Good to see you haven't given up on it Nick👍
Doug Sweetman ·
Great read, makes me miss my baja
Anthiron ·
Just won a km/h speedo on eBay that will
Actually fit in my car. (Last one I bought was for an L bug 🙁)
Also ordered front lower qtr replacement panels, some other pieces of tinware I needed, stainless fender mounting hardware, and my rear bar is coming in pieces from Chirco.
Home from work on Wednesday. Should be able to get a couple of full days work on the Baja in.
Anthiron ·
Got home from work yesterday.
Today after some precision angle grinding I managed to dislodge the offending bearing race that was stuck on the drivers side spindle.
Painted the backing plates and fitted them to the front end.
Took the tie rod ends off the old tie rod and fitted them to the new unit.
See the difference in size and strength in the photo below. The new rod is much beefier.
Picked up a supercheap auto engine stand and fitted the engine to it so I can clean it up and refit the ancillaries.
Fitted my seats to the rails and installed them on the pan.
Somewhere amongst this I managed to tweak my back pretty bad so I am kicking back with some Codeine now.
Was hoping to get some work done on the body on Saturday but my repair panels havent arrived yet. 🙁
Anthiron ·
After some advice from Matt Berry I got the new bearing races into the Nicely painted drums and used some emery paper to lightly reduce the diameter of the front spindle inner section to accept the inner front bearing nicely.
I ended up putting the bearing races in the freezer over night and used a torch to lightly heat the drum. A few careful taps with hammer and punch and they seated nicely.
Just need to find some keyed thrust washers (Mine are awol) so I can grease everything up and do a final instalation.
Spindles sanded
Races fitted to drums
dry fit of everything together
Brakes assembled on backing plates
Doug Sweetman ·
Don't it feel good putting stuff together with new pieces ? Looking good .
Anthiron ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Don't it feel good putting stuff together with new pieces ? Looking good .
Definately exactly what I was thinking while I was assembling the brakes.
I am stuck out in North West QLD "working" untill the 18th and have been thinking over a couple of things.
My main aim is to get the car solid and back together with everything clean/painted and working perfectly.
Secondry aim is to future proof the car for upgrades I may want to add once it is back together down the track.
These things would be
1. IRS Kombi box conversion with type 2 CV's
2. Lifted Combi spindles, longer front trailing arms, International tie rod ends (or an entire front beam swap retaining stock length but possibly longer shock towers).
3. 4 wheel wide 5 disc brakes
4. Bigger engine (bigger type 1 engine. No Subie engine in my VW please)
People are probobly going to say that I should just do this now while the car is apart but in all honesty I really just want to get it back together and stop spending money on it at the moment. I already have a nicely rebuild swinger box that keeps things simple and cheap, I don't have a major issue with drum brakes like some people do and I don't mind the additional maintence. Installing a new beam or spindles and brakes is easy to do later with the body on. This way it doesn't become a never ending project.
As far as Kombi gearbox conversion goes I will have the 3" lift so there will already be more room under there to do the work with the body on but I don't really know what is involved that is different to converting to type 1 IRS.
Should I be welding in mounts now while I can access the pan and horns easily? Or is it just as easy to do with the body on if I have the big Body lift?
Also should I get the pivot boxes welded in now even though I will stick with Swinger for a while? Or will these interfere with the Swinger setup?
My rear barwork pieces have arrived at home in knockdown form and Stainless fender mounting hardware should be waiting as well. Hopefully my front wheelwell repair panels will arrive from George too.
Aim for my next R+R is:
- cut out the section I marked on the framehead that needs clearancing and weld in a new section.
- Get the thrust washers and grease caps off a spare beam at my old mans and finish off the front brake and wheel bearing assembly
- If the repair panels arrive, get the A pillar and wheel wheel rust repairs done.
- Put on the guards, bonnet etc and cut the body for the nose cone and rear section.
Nicko
nils ·
welding in the IRS pivot boxes at this point is not a bad idea, would make it a lot easier
Nothing wrong with having a simple baja nick, My favourite baja on Stockton at the moment is still a swing axle and only sports a 1500 single port
Bone ·
If there's one thing to do while body is off, it's IRS pivot boxes ! Have done a three sets with body on and its a PITA. You WONT regret it !!
Anthiron ·
Whats that Shane? You want to do a 4th set? :P
Bone ·
Nick if you can chase up the pivot boxes we may be able to sort something out.
Anthiron ·
I have some on order........ 🙂
Seriously though. I would be happy to pay you for your time with beer, cash, parts etc.
Also looks like I will be purchasing Nils' 1835cc engine for this thing which comes with a 3 rib kombi box I will put aside for IRS conversion.
Ordered a few things to get the engine ready for my car. (The gold case isnt going to match my car so I will strip it to a long block and paint the case Hi Temp Black.)
Alternator style fuel pump, rod and flange
German engine gasket set.
and a 3'1/8 vdo Tacho
Stainless tinware hardware kit
I was tossing up running a Monster tacho but I couldnt think of anywhere to mount it was was going to either obscure my vision or get in the way of Cd player or the passengers legs where it wil get kicked as people enter the car etc so I went with an in dash Tach. I will be running an in dash shift light also which will use an RPM activated switch to trigger.
RPM activated switch, programmable from 2000rpm - 9000rpm and can be set to switch off as the designated RPM or switch on. Pretty cool.
My dash layout.
I Think this keeps it pretty simple and functional with minor cutting of the stock metal. The Fascia to mount the guages will be Alloy Check plate. I will also be welding in a platform to support the cd player so it doesnt move around too much offroad like my last one did. Horn and Indicators will be under the dash on the RHS like they were on my old body.
Also George from Classic Vee Dub rang and has posted my repair panels 🙂
ancientbugger ·
Iwas going to suggest Shane for the pivot boxes as he enjoys doing those😀 BTW where did you get the mirrors?
Anthiron ·
Mirrors were a one off stainless steel item. Paul from the manx club made them for his Baja and then decided to part it out. I was lucky enough to snatch them up.
If mick wanted some similar, you could buy a set of bar mounted mirrors from one of the offroad stores in the usa and then weld on a front brace and flat bracket mounts instead of the bar mounts. wouldnt be too hard.
Bone ·
PM sent
Anthiron ·
Got home from work last night. Stopped off at Dad's place in the dark and grabbed the thrust washers and grease caps off a spare K+L beam I have down there (Knew that would be handy for something!)
They were in need of some attention before use!
Also my rear bar from Chirco was waiting for me. I asked them to cut the bar to make it easier to ship........I can't help but think they could have cut it somewhere more appropriate than mid way through the lower bends! 👎
Slept in to at least 6.30am this morning which was a welcome change. After catching up with some friends I deceided to at least get something done today so I grabbed some Wheel bearing grease from repco and after cleaning half of Biloela off this thing>>>>
X2 on the cage cutting, makes it hard to do a good internal sleave.
Crumple zones perhaps?
matberry ·
Keep up the good work mate. Glad to hear of the future increased VW power
Anthiron ·
Picked up the new engine, wheels and early kombi rear brakes from Nils on the weekend.
Got the engine home and after much swearing and the persuasion of a small hammer I managed to get the exhaust off and into its seperate pieces ready to be re coated. (Can Stainless steel be ceramic coated?)
I now have the engine down to a Long block (No picture atm) and I will be giving everything a good clean up. The fan shroud will need a little bit of work but the cylinder tin is good. I will also need to swap the clutch for the early style pressure plate from my old engine.
Some bling for the re-assembly.
Going to put these wheels aside and maybe run them on the front. I have some 15 inch Pecos to run on the rear with 31's if I go this way.
Craig Torrens wrote:Yes, stainless can be coated. 👍
Excellent, cheers Craig!
peter87 ·
looks awesome, how did you prep your wheels for paint?
1916baja ·
Score! That gear of nils' was a bargain! It's shaping up to be a ripper Baja...👍
nils ·
might have missed it somewhere along the line, but what colour do you have in store for the baja?
Mr Muppet ·
Great build mate, love that your keeping it all VW.
DubCrazy ·
i spy a Skyteam in the background, replic of the most awesome honda cb
i love my cafe racers and although its only a 125 these skyteams are great.. if u want a bit more wollop then u can get a kit from the uk that has new pipe,jets and blanks to remove te enviro pipe work on the right hand side... it doubles the bhp, fitted a couple of kits to mates bikes and u really notice the difference... from memory they about $450 landed here (central qld)
steff.....
Anthiron ·
Hi Steff.
I did the pipe myself, fitted a chrome reverse megaphone.
Made a blanking plate for the Egr stuff, that's all gone.
Changed the carby to a mikuni and jetted that.
Removed air box and battery mount assembly and fitted a baby pod filter
Tiny lithium battery is hidden under the tail piece.
Smoked indicators
Wider black drag way bars
Bar end mirrors
Billet tail light mounted on the seat cowl and rear fender removed. ( still have to make up a rear guard)
Geared up front sprocket by 1 tooth.
It's happy on the highway at 105km/h now.
Keeping an eye out for a good early cb 125 to put the tank and seat etc on.
Nicko
Anthiron ·
nils wrote:might have missed it somewhere along the line, but what colour do you have in store for the baja?
Going to keep similar colours.
Guards red for the body and black fenders.
Anthiron ·
peter87 wrote:looks awesome, how did you prep your wheels for paint?
I had them blasted and powdercoated. Costs between 25-60 per wheel depending on where you take them.
