Alright, so it was finally time to put the new guards on Zelda.
Everything bolted on perfectly. I did the wiring and then, well, we tried the brakes, and the indicators, and nothing.
I got a bit further. Currently, I have parkers (on full brightness) and indicators. When I push my brake down, it doesn't do anything whatsoever.
My current wiring is as follows (the exact same on both sides).
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Need this to be fixed before morning!
Brad ·
SebastienPeek wrote:Currently, I have parkers (on full brightness) and indicators. When I push my brake down, it doesn't do anything whatsoever.
Expalin parks on full brightness ?
If you have any lights then that means you have earth as they all use a common. I would suggest you check your bulb bases as they look like aftermarket assemblies and the quality of the bulb holders often lets them down.
SebastienPeek ·
Hey Brad,
I'm uploading a video to YouTube to explain this all in fullness.
I can give it a go. I'm willing to give anything a go, I need this done by tomorrow morning at 9am.
SebastienPeek ·
And by parkers on full brightness I mean it is as if my foot was on the brake pedal.
Parkers are supposed to be dim, and then when the foot is applied to the brake pedal, they go full brightness.
But instead, they're always full brightness.
68AutoBug ·
the light fixture needs to be earthed to the car for any lights to work...
parkers are the very small bulbs... in the headlamps...
not very bright... for parking...
Headlamps - High and Low also need to be earthed to the car otherwise both filiments glow...
one brighter then the other as it needs the earth wire to the car
normally cars get the earth from the guards when they are bolted on...
but if there is paint under the bolts, it won't work...
best to add earth wires if there aren't any there..
You can put a wire from a guard bolt to the light or as I did, I added earth wires and attached the end of the wire to a small self tapping screw on the body of the car..
and the other end to a screw or terminal on the lamp...
power has to flow from the battery back to the battery for the lamps to work...
best of luck
Lee
Brad ·
yeah ok so you have the parkers and brake wires backwards, are you testing it on the car ? If not at least plug the earth wire back into the cluster so you aren't getting feedback through your circuit.
What year beetle is this ?
matberry ·
Your missing the brown earth wire from chassis to reflector/light base.
68AutoBug ·
but the earth wire need to be connected to the tail lamp assembly base for the lights to work properly
Dim and Bright
LEE
68AutoBug ·
see the earth terminal on Your tail lamp assembly bracket with no wire on it??
it needs to connected to the body of the car
LEE
68AutoBug ·
have You actually bolted the tail lamps to the guards???
anyway there should be a brown earth wire to connect to the tail lamp terminal
then they will work
LEE
SebastienPeek ·
SebastienPeek ·
This is the new wiring.
Also replaced the housing with original ones not the reproduction.
Brad ·
rear lights are not LHS and RHS so fis your RHS so it is the same as your LHS and swap the brake and tail over. The mounts are LHS and RHS but the lights aren't.
Hook up your earth
SebastienPeek ·
Okay, so from what I can gather I need to earth each taillight assembly to the chassis.
That's what the now added in brown wire does.
Still the same issue though.
Brad ·
Also why an L Bug without reverse light ?
Brake light is presure switch I would not be suprised if sitting a box on it, even a full one did not activate it. Push the pedal with your foot
SebastienPeek ·
Have been testing with my foot now, same issue.
The reverse light wiring has been screwed with, I need a full day of just tracing wires to get it done.
I have tonight/now to get the brakes working for tomorrow morning.
Each assembly should have the same wires in the same spots, correct?
Each should also be grounded to the chassis?
Is that what the brown wire is for that is already being passed under to the fender?
I'm going to assume so anyway.
SebastienPeek ·
Actually, what is that mustard coloured wire for?
Should I be connecting my brown/earth to it or should I go straight to the chassis myself?
Brad ·
Correct, reverse wire is simple you should have a fuse in the engine bay that takes power from the coil ignition and runs it to the reverse light switch on the transmission and then up to the reverse lights.
Brake lights - check you haven't blown your fuse, check you have power to the switch on the M/C, then just unplug the non powered wire and touch it on the powered wire and make sure they light up.
Brake switches fail all the time so don't be suprised if that is what has happened.
snitz ·
Swap globes left to right and check that no filaments in the globes are blown or are all the globes new?..
SebastienPeek ·
Mine isn't that simple. It has been spliced to kingdom come.
Fuse, not blown.
What does M/C stand for?
How am I supposed to drive her without brake lights?
Should I call work and tell them I can't make it till later in the afternoon and take her to an auto-electrician in the morning?
SebastienPeek ·
All globes are brand new... 🙁
bajachris88 ·
m/c = master cylinder
If you use a flat head to short the two prongs on the master switch, it should turn your brake lights on.
If it doesn't turn on, see if you have current at either:
1) At the brake light switch at the master cylinder (use some wire and a spare light bulb etc, or better yet, a multimeter)
2) At the brake light wire at the tail light, check for current/voltage, even by plugging into 'say' the indicator light bulb, you just want that glow to isolate the problem.
NOW! I had issues with my brake lights... it was due to 2 things. 1: corrosion in the bulb housing. and two, if you see the clip in the bulb housing (that holds in the brake light bulb yea?) that clip at the bottom 'Pushes' into the bulb. Sometimes it can get bent and not push hard enough into the base of the bulb to make a great contact. simply remove the bulb and rebend the clip slightly to put a bit more tension on the bulb.
And of course, be 100% positive that the light housing is earthed, and the earth wire is connected to a nice clean blade plug at the light housing in case corrosion is insulating it. again, a multimeter could be used to check this (through the resistance measurement to check for 'continuity' in the circuit IE: making sure the housing is somewhat able to contact to teh chassis, but if testing this way to check the earth, disconnect all wires but the earth wire to see if it is working).
goodluck 👍
SebastienPeek ·
I gave up.
Taking her to an auto-electrician tomorrow morning.
Thanks everyone that landed a hand!
68AutoBug ·
SebastienPeek wrote:Have been testing with my foot now, same issue.
The reverse light wiring has been screwed with, I need a full day of just tracing wires to get it done.
I have tonight/now to get the brakes working for tomorrow morning.
Each assembly should have the same wires in the same spots, correct?
Each should also be grounded to the chassis?
Is that what the brown wire is for that is already being passed under to the fender?
I'm going to assume so anyway.
Yes
that brown wires supplies the earth for all lights..
and If Your tail lights were going bright without the earth wires that means YOUR brake switch IS working OK
otherwise that wouldn't happen
it also wouldn't happen if a filiment was burnt out..
so, all You need is the earth wire to be connected up..
if it doesn't work.. then just make up an extra wire yourself
LEE
bajachris88 ·
dude u will get charged like a mofo! you can nail this!
pity ur not local.
SebastienPeek ·
Lee,
I connected up that wire, and nothing changed. Still no brakes when I push the brake pedal.
Chris,
Yeah, I know I'll get charged high as they can charge me, so I'll try what you said in the morning.
I'll get a mate to come over with a multimeter and we'll nail this.
Sometimes I just wished everything I did with Zelda was smooth sailing. Seems everything goes to shits.
I have a new master cylinder lined up anyway seeing as though one of the things are splitting.
68AutoBug ·
Hi
just connect a piece of wire to the body bare metal and touch the other end of the wire to the silver metal bit on your tail lamps sebastien
that is all it needs
Lee
bajachris88 ·
you'll nail it. 👍
its always the case with the bug. But after the first time you fix a specific problem, every other time ends up a walk in the park.
By the time you replaced everything on it, you'll be right lol (tis what i'm going through now 😢, always 'something' to fix that puts its hand up for attention after another problem is cured)
68AutoBug ·
you would have needed an earth wire as your last guards were fibreglass
Lee
68AutoBug ·
if all the lights worked before
and the lights changed when you pushed the brake pedal..
that is normal when the earth wire is disconnected
Lee
'
SebastienPeek ·
Alright, I'll try it out in the morning Lee.
If all else fails, I know a mate has a multimeter and we'll go through it as thorough as possible.
I just want these damn lights on there already working.
A days worth of work wasted as the only outcome was that she has new fenders on and lights that are /semi/ working.
68AutoBug ·
if I was on holidays in adelaide I would have come over and fixed them
I'm sure there isn't anything wrong with your brake switch
Lee
SebastienPeek ·
Lee, you're right, there were two extra wires on the LHS that were used as grounds.
If I connect the brown wire from the light bulb housing to one of these wires, will that ground both light assemblies or do I need to do to both sides?
Before, was only LHS...
68AutoBug ·
I'm thinking that those go to both lights
Lee
SebastienPeek ·
I'll have to investigate tomorrow morning.
One went to the engine tinware and the other went to bumper bracket mount if I remember correctly.
I'm pretty sure that there was only a ground on the LHS though, if they were the ground anyway.
68AutoBug ·
that sounds a bit odd...
you only need one earth wire
so, maybe you have a spare wire on the rhs???
anyway..
if only the lhs works
connect one to the rhs
it looks like you have the power ok..
just no earth
Lee
cheers
Lee
SebastienPeek ·
Alright, so I have grounded everything and looks okay.
Although, I am pretty sure my battery is drained.
My starter motor isn't even cranking over.
But my taillights still work, and indicators, and everything else in the car. So there is still some juice...
Could it be because I grounded both assemblies to the same piece of tinware and that is causing an issue with the starter motor?
Sorry for all my noob questions, I'm trying to learn as much as possible as quickly as possible so I can fix it tonight along with replacing my brake master cylinder with a new one.
Thanks again to all that have lended me a hand!
68AutoBug ·
Hi Sebastien
no, it doesn't matter where You earth out the tail lamps...
and it seems Your battery needs charging...
due to You testing out the lights..
the starter motor needs a full battery charge to work..
You can start Your car by having someone push it...
You put it in 2nd gear clutch in... key on..
when You get the car moving as fast as you can
You let out the clutch suddenly and push the accelerator pedal down.. and it should start...
Important part..
then push the clutch in.. and hit the brakes,,, unless You want to keep driving...
You will need to drive it for at least 10 minutes to recharge the battery.. so You can restart it next time..
Your generator won't charge with the engine idling... it needs to be revved to recharge Your battery..
next thing on Your list...
buy a battery charger...
I use mine a lot as I don't drive My car all the time...
cheers
LEE
Aussie Dubbin ·
Sebastian give me a call 0415 539 554 im sure it can be fixed without an electrician bill. Where do you live in adelaide? i might be able to come over tonight.
In the next posts i run through what i would check.
Aussie Dubbin ·
So do you have a cheap currency trester? If not you can make one with a simple bulb, run current via a spare wire ( i suggest about 1-3 foot long) then simply hold the wire onto the base of the globe, earth the side of the globe out on some exposed body metal, then use the other end to see if there is current at any connector by pressing the exposed end onto the connector. If there is power it will light up. CRUDE tooling but if you dont have one it helps.
OK Brake wiring is simple when you understand what is happening.
Power comes from the battery to the dash via a high power wire and sreads throughout the fuse box from there. One wire from the fuse box will go directly to the master cylinder. You need to chase this wire (not remove it just find it) from here you can test the master cylinder end to see if there is current running. This line is constantly powered just waiting to be earthed. Pull the ruber boot off and one side should be powered.
If your lucky there is power her. If there is
Aussie Dubbin ·
Get a mate to put his foot on the pedal and this should "Bridge" the two pins and when the brake is applied there should be power at both sides.
If so then go to the rear of the car and see if there is power at the rear line anywhere.
You need to chase the power and see where it stops. Use the lamp tool i suggested above. If you lose power anywehere you will know where you need to sort. I've got a class to teach but i can easily help you out i'm sure.
Just remember the power is already at the master cylinder and trying to be earthed. All you have to do is connect an uninterrupted line formt he m/c to the lights grounded point and you will have power.
Hope that helps give me a call
SebastienPeek ·
Hey Aussie Dubbin,
Just gave you a call and left you a voicemail.
I'm at work at the moment but will be home around 5pm.
If you can, give me a call back when you get the chance, left my number in the voicemail.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Seb
PS, I don't have anything. I'd really like it if you could come around and lend a hand.
I'm situated in Glynde (Near Kmart Firle). Like I said, give me a buzz back when you can.
SebastienPeek ·
Alrighty, after a chat to Aussie Dubbin this afternoon,
I thought I'd investigate more into the brake master cylinder.
This is it's current state.
I also, well, this isn't plugged in anywhere?
Oh, also found that I had a fuel filter under here as well, woot!
And I figured that I had the three bolt pattern on the front springs. Means I can get some lowered ones.
Joel ·
Don't stress bout the unused plug, Zelda's just had a new mastercylinder at some stage and new one is non genuine.
Originals had a brake light switch on front and rear circuits, alot of aftermarket m/c only have one on the fronts so theres nothing for that plug.
Leak is coming from the feed from the reservoir it's just whether its the rubber hose splitting or the rubber grommet.
BiX ·
follow aussie dubbin's advice, I always find if you work through these things systematically, you will find the problem. Normally i start at the battery with a multi meter or globe tester and work from there, following the problem. if you jump about, you will just chase your tail. Simple thinngs like said above, check at the brake pressure switch, then out from the brake pressure, then at the lights, then out from the lights etc etc.....
68AutoBug ·
check out the blue hose which may have split...
its only the brake fluid feed pipe...
you could replace the blue hose with something else till you get some... there isn't any pressure there...
unlikely you need a new brake master cylinder
Lee
PS. did you get all your lights to work??
SebastienPeek ·
Lee, already bought a new brake master cylinder, that is somewhat awkward...
I'll invest in a new hose when I get some time over the weekend.
Nah, still haven't gotten all the lights to work, need to test as Aussie Dubbin has mentioned, but he might be coming over on the weekend to lend a hand if he gets the chance.