Installing a NEW Highbeam Relay

Hi Guys,

I know this has been addressed a little in the past on this forum, but I am in need of some further clarification.

My 70 Beetle had the old original latching relay, but the plunger part is rusted away. I then ordered a new one, and I assume it is right as it seems to be the only one that anyone offers (and it is stated as being the right replacement). My problem is this...

The old relay has terminals: S, F, 30, 56, and 56a
The NEW relay terminals: S, 30, 56, 56a and 56b

I also read somewhere on this forum that;

30 = power
56 = dash light
56a = low
56b = high

To date neither myself or a local Auto Electrician (the only one in town) can work out how the NEW relay works. He can not even get it to SWITCH for us at all.

Can anyone clarify all the terminals for me and indicate which ones on the old relay go with which on the NEW relay?

Cheers...

Stigandr wrote:I also read somewhere on this forum that;

30 = power
56 = dash light
56a = low
56b = high

That's a bit off.

They are both essentially the same relay just the terminals are labelled different.

30 is constant battery power on everything in the car.

It should be a big red one that comes off the constant power fuse

56 is the headlight on signal from the light switch

S is the ground from the high beam dipper switch

56a is the low beam feed out that goes to the 2 low beam fuses

and 56b is high beam feed, it's marked F on older relays.

Thanks Joel. Back to the Auto Electrician on Friday as there is a couple of other little issues too. We shall see how that goes. Hopefully we will get it all working as it should.

Cheers..

f that doesn't fix it I think I may have another relay similar to the original unit.PM if stuck Cheers les

Okay, so is there some trick I am missing or something with the newer relays?

The old one works fine when plugged in and everything functions as it should apart from the plunger being absent so it does not latch the switch. If you latch it manually the high beams work fine.

When I (or the auto electrician) plug in one of the new ones using the terminal matchings as Joel indicated.....nothing happens. We can not get one of the new types of relays to SWITCH at all. Is something else needed? Is there a trick or some black magic ritual I need to perform?

Right now we are all stumped. 🙁

Make sure the high beam switch is actually working properly and grounding the relay when you pull the lever.

Thanks Joel. I do believe it was grounding the old relay properly. The old one was switching, just had no plunger to flick the latch. I will check again though. 🙂

I thought the troubles I had with getting this thing to start were frustrating. I am now feeling that they were nothing compared to this....as this should be fairly simple.....or so I though.

I have found that over the years....

no auto electrician can work out VW s wiring systems...

so, its better to work it out Yourself... if You can

best of LUck

:LEE

Are you sure it's not a dud relay out of the box?

stick 12volts on 30 and ground S and make sure it pulls in.

As Lee said alot of auto electricians have trouble with VWs and the high beam uses a latching relay setup unlike most other cars which have a multi position stalk instead.

If it is a dud, then i have managed to buy two faulty ones. One from cip and one from CVD. 🙁 Neither want to work.

Both the auto elect (who seemed to know what he was doing) and myself could not get the new one to switch in the car or out. I will try again today ("stick 12volts on 30 and ground S and make sure it pulls in.") or tomorrow though.

That is the right relay to replace the old latching style though isn't it?

For the record, if anyone is ever having issues installing one of the new style VW Beetle highbeam switching relays (Part No. 111-941-583), that replace the old latching ones....I found this;

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/headrelay.pdf

It would appear that you do not connect the red constant power wire to terminal 30 on the relay as with the old ones. Now you make a bridge wire to run from terminal 56 (headlight switch) to terminal 30 and power is received that way.

I am no auto electrician, so do not ask me. I just found the above pdf when searching online. And, I have now tried it on my bug. It worked first go. I have low beam, high beam, and my driving lights which I thought also had issues, now work too.

I am a happy camper....😂

Thanks again for all the help guys, and hopefully this may help others too.

Cheers...

Great News Stig

do You use another relay for Your driving lights?

cheers

LEE

Yes Lee, there is another relay in there.

The bug had them already installed when I bought it. They were done right though. There is an on/off switch on the dash and they are wired into the high beam on the headlights.

The relay on the driving lights is a louder one though....you can really hear it click when they are turned on...lol

that is good then..

the louder relay may be mounted somewhere where it transmits sound..
some relays have a metal case with a bracket attached
some relays have a plastic case with metal bracket and
others are all plastic case and bracket

cheers

Lee

Glad to hear that you got it working,I do have a new unit and a couple of used ones if you are chasing one in the future. Cheers Les

Joel wrote:Make sure the high beam switch is actually working properly and grounding the relay when you pull the lever.

I had this problem recently when I painted the blinker arm as it was chipped.... and also painted the high beam contacts on the arm switch... lol

good quality epoxy paint will do that... lol 😂

LEE