Metalfix

Hi guys,

Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).

Anyone had any experiance with it?

I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.

Newt

I just filled a spray gun up with rust converter and sprayed the inside of the tunnel....

Ask an industrial sandblaster what they use? Or look at the UK market. If you can get it shipped then they have far superior products compared to Oz as the UK has far worse rust troubles then us 🙂

Dinitrol, Jenolite, Kurust.....the list goes on. Practical Classic mag is great for such adverts too.

Newt wrote:Hi guys,

Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).

Anyone had any experiance with it?

I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.

Newt

Someone of Here sells ANCHOR WAX ...

which seals the metal.. over rust etc...

and dries hard .. looked it up and seems great stuff..

can be painted over... if needed.. even better than fish oil..!

LEE

68AutoBug wrote:

Newt wrote:Hi guys,

Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).

Anyone had any experiance with it?

I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.

Newt

Someone of Here sells ANCHOR WAX ...

which seals the metal.. over rust etc...

and dries hard .. looked it up and seems great stuff..

can be painted over... if needed.. even better than fish oil..!

LEE

Cool but does it have a rust stabiliser/converter properties? If not then the metal will just rust more slowly underneath the protective new skin.
You always must kill the rust before using a covering Wax. Waxoyl, from RS components of all people (the only Oz importer), is one of the few wax treatments that has a stabiliser and is a self healing wax that never hardens.

Cheers Guys

Newt

Guys,

Out of curiosity, has any one tried electrolysis for inside tunnels. I dont know, stick a star picket inside and wire it to the positive lead.

I was reading about using washing soda (and not baking soda which seems to be a no no) in water as the solution. Is this in itself inherently salty and cause more damage if you dont clean up adequately? (what is adequately?).

Just pondering....

Cheers

Newt

do you mean electro the rust off?

Seriously, get hold of an issue of Practical Classic and look at all the rust treatment adverts. Bilt and Humber are one of the best and a few 500ml cans will fix your tunnel easily with the 600mm injection lances 😉

I have always used Septone Rust coververter - from auto paint supply stores. Has been good to me but I have not been doing it that long compared to most.
I have been recommended a mix to use in the non seen areas instead of fish oil.
= Valvoline Tectyl with a little bit of motor oil. Apparently it works really well.
I have never tried it though, so may be something you would have to research further.
Cheers,
Brad

68AutoBug wrote:

Newt wrote:Hi guys,

Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).

Anyone had any experiance with it?

I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.

Newt

Someone of Here sells ANCHOR WAX ...

which seals the metal.. over rust etc...

and dries hard .. looked it up and seems great stuff..

can be painted over... if needed.. even better than fish oil..!

LEE

You can't paint over Anchor wax
It's just that a wax, the paint won't stick to it.
It's like an oil that you just cover the surface rust with, it won't cure the rust it just stops it getting worse

rust bullet

for fks sake! lee stop giving advise...
anchor wax can not be painted over, its wax!!!!

This will proberbly get deleted but I really can't help myself here.
Lee you are a mod, you should really check your facts before you post.
You could have cost a member a lot of money on wasted paint if they had taken your advice

Tectyl has no converter within it's make up from what I've read.
Seriously I'm not joking. Oz is poorly setup for rust problems. Buy from USA or UK to be certain of a good result. Being patriotic is fine so long as you have a product that works. KBS is great stuff but needs proper surface prep like POR15. Cavity wax with rust inhibitor is the only way to go and Waxoyl, Dinitrol n Bilt n humber are the way to go for long standing results.

Whatever rust treatment you use, it WILL NOT improve the strength of the existing steel section that is being treated - only [maybe] stop the rust from going further. Badly rusted sections, particularly structural areas, should be replaced.

HappyDaze wrote:Whatever rust treatment you use, it WILL NOT improve the strength of the existing steel section that is being treated - only [maybe] stop the rust from going further. Badly rusted sections, particularly structural areas, should be replaced.

Yes, I agree. That is what bog is for!🙂

yes bog is strong...... "snap"

bog is a pos! thats why its called bog.

cut out and replace, weld, braze, lead fill. etc... is the only proper way to fix metal.

If the inside of the tunnel is anything more than light surface rust then an inhibitor will have trouble getting to the bas steel.
Any bad rust needs proper repair like everyone else has said 😉