Vacuum advance dissy with kadrons, where do i get vacuum from?

OK, so my new motor came with Kadrons and an vacuum advance dissy. It has the vacuum hose out of the diaphram plugged up.

Now, given that there are no available vacuum ports on the carbs, is it OK to tap into the balance tube for vacuum?, will it get the right type of vacuum signal to operate the advance correctly?

I don't really want to run a 009, but if it's going to be too much hassle to get this dissy working properly, then I will.

Yes you can run the vacuum - but you have to drill your manifolds.

AJ Sims in the USofA does this.

Try his site - www.lowbugget.com
or do some searching on www.shoptalkforums.com on the speed and drag forums.

I think some one described what you have to do.

Easier to run a 009

[Edited on 18-8-2003 by blue74l]

What about the vacuum connection for power assisted brakes? (If you have them).

It's a 1960 bug, so It doesn't have power assisted brakes.

I don't really want to drill my carbs.

Does anyone know if it would be OK to tap into the balance tube for dissy vacuum?

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=51140&highlight=kadron+vacuum

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=50831&highlight=kadron+vacuum

Sorry for being so lazy but read these two posts.

See if your answer is there

Your easiest solution is to get a thread cut into both manifolds, and then screw in a barbed brass fitting. 5/16" fittings would be fine. You can have this done at any hydraulic shop (enzed, or pirtek).

Just mark on the manifold with some white paint where the fittings can go and still be easily accessable. I put mine directly out the side of each manifold, facing the rear of the car, about 1" down from the carb flange.

If you use only one manifold for the vacuum signal, you get a poor vacuum signal and this will affect your timing. The signal pulses because the vacuum is being created by only two cylendars. This would affect your idling a lot.

You then need a t-piece to link the two manifolds together, and then link to the dist. diaphram. This will be better because the vacuum signal is from all 4 cylendars.

The linked manifolds (balance pipe) will provide you with a more stable idle. Just be sure to balance your carbs with the hose next to one manifold kinked.

You will also notice your idle speed drops off when the balance pipe is open. This is normal, and you just need to open the throttle's up a little more each side to get it right when balancing the carbs, then unkink the hose and check your idling speed periodically.

Good luck,

Ian.

[Edited on 18-8-2003 by iswinkels]

I hate to burst your bubble, but if you run your Vac advance off the manifold it wont work because it will have constant vacuum ALL the time. You dont want vacuum at idle. The vacuum port needs to be above the throttle plate so that there is no vacuum at idle , but is when you crack the throttle open.

Which is why the standard Solex's on my 1800 kombi run the vacuum line from one carby, and not the balance pipe...

Oh well, I'll put a 009 on it for now. The carbs will eventually need to be rebuilt, so I'll go for the vacuum advance then.

:P

That is just about everyones reply

It just gets too hard to do the vac port.

009 - 1
common sense - 0 🙁

Get off my back😀

hey - i am on your side :thumb

Just a pity there aint a few more places like Rimco, AC.net and AJ's that we can get things done here that are especially set up for VW that you can get these things done at

Any carby shop should be able to do it.

I just can't be bothered with all the mucking about at this point, I've spent the better part of two weekends putting this motor in (and convering to 12v + other minor repairs), and it's so close to being driveable, I just can't wait.