im looking at purchasing this camper just wondering what peoples opinions are on the work needed please?
Basixs ·
Aussieveedubbers · Busses
Rust Repairs
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/95398/rust-repairs
pod ·
it would have to be real cheap,as that looks like it needs most of the front replacing
helbus ·
About a hundred hours of your time to do the metal work, if you have the tools to do it properly, and it is repairable. Easy job. Maybe $5000 to get a panel shop to do it.
matberry ·
Yep, for the front, and if the front is anything to go by, the sills and doors are likely to be similar, not to mention, if there is any sign of rust in the roof gutters, walk away.helbus wrote:About a hundred hours of your time to do the metal work, if you have the tools to do it properly, and it is repairable. Easy job. Maybe $5000 to get a panel shop to do it.
MISS VDUB ·
Lower 6 inches all round is usually the doozy with Spits, not sure about bays. That's a pretty rusty front end. It's going to cost you a fortune to fix unless you are good with welding and often dodgy sheet metal parts that don't line up and need refabricating .
Basixs ·
sadly i dont have the skills, tools knowhow or anywhere to do this kind of work 🙁
thanks for the replys, just waiting on what the restorer says.....if it comes in a bit lower than that i could be tempted.
thanks for the replys, just waiting on what the restorer says.....if it comes in a bit lower than that i could be tempted.
68BUS ·
To give you an idea of what his price comes back at.
Uper and Lower skin, inner valance, side steps inner and outer, and new cab flooring = about $680
Hours of labour required (Check against his labour rate).
Remove panels and unstich all areas, prep up for putting back on. - 10-15hr.
Prep up front skin, line up with door, tack in place, check again, fully weld. - 8-10 hour (plus if it is a lowlight, add 2-3hours)
Work on steps and replace both with new metal (Note, these panels are shit and take time to make work) - 10-15 hr.
Cab floor, remove existing and replace - 8-12hr.
This is VERY rough, but may help if he comes back with a price of 1 or 2 days you will know there will be cost blowouts.
Uper and Lower skin, inner valance, side steps inner and outer, and new cab flooring = about $680
Hours of labour required (Check against his labour rate).
Remove panels and unstich all areas, prep up for putting back on. - 10-15hr.
Prep up front skin, line up with door, tack in place, check again, fully weld. - 8-10 hour (plus if it is a lowlight, add 2-3hours)
Work on steps and replace both with new metal (Note, these panels are shit and take time to make work) - 10-15 hr.
Cab floor, remove existing and replace - 8-12hr.
This is VERY rough, but may help if he comes back with a price of 1 or 2 days you will know there will be cost blowouts.
Basixs ·
ok as you all know its difficult to judge these things but hes prepared to do the work and potentially do me a package deal as in getting it back on the rd asap and doing the work as and when budgets will allow.
so around 50 hours work and im guessing mechanics/restorers work at around the $100 mark?
which wouldnt be far off what ive been guesstimated at.
so around 50 hours work and im guessing mechanics/restorers work at around the $100 mark?
which wouldnt be far off what ive been guesstimated at.
MISS VDUB ·
Just a reminder that if that's the rust you CAN see, don't be surprised once you start digging to actually uncover more 🙁
binner ·
rust is a must and it will drive you bust. 😵
if you have the time,knack and tools you can fix anything, if not turn around and head for the bar.
if you have the time,knack and tools you can fix anything, if not turn around and head for the bar.
Klaus ·
looks like normal lowlight rust to me , thats why they make replacement panels , I've had 1 decent lowlight out of 6 that didnt have this area totally rusted out , if its a poptop I'd be looking more around the pillars n gutter sections
rossdanialnaumov ·
This really isn't that bad. You'll be hard pushed to find a lowlight without rust or repairs in these areas. The best things about your pics is it seems it hasn't had repairs done recently which can be allot worse as they're bogged up, painted and you have no idea what you're dealing with. With yours it's what you see is what you get... this is a good thing. Nothing worse than a bogged up, painted car and you don't know where it starts and where it ends.
Mine was the perfect example of bogged up and painted over. I unearthed allot of bog and rust but nothing any other lowlight has including yours. My rear cargo area is perfect as is my gutters and the rest of the car so to me it was a good trade off. You might want to consider this too. If it has good floors, gutters, (sills will always be gone) etc then repairing the front might be worth the effort.
I am fortunate to be able to do all the work myself so you need to weigh someone else doing the work.
Here's some pics of the similar rust areas I cut out: http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z426/rossnaumov/ (start at page 1)
Hope this helps.
Mine was the perfect example of bogged up and painted over. I unearthed allot of bog and rust but nothing any other lowlight has including yours. My rear cargo area is perfect as is my gutters and the rest of the car so to me it was a good trade off. You might want to consider this too. If it has good floors, gutters, (sills will always be gone) etc then repairing the front might be worth the effort.
I am fortunate to be able to do all the work myself so you need to weigh someone else doing the work.
Here's some pics of the similar rust areas I cut out: http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z426/rossnaumov/ (start at page 1)
Hope this helps.
Basixs ·
thanks for all the replies.
ive bitten the bullet and purchased it and its now on the road to the rust merchants for a proper inspection.
the roof and floors seem solid other than the driver and passenger side floor which can apparently be patched,
should arrive up here in nsw next monday so ithen tll be clearer the amount of work and money that needs to be spent.
yes you guessed it..... i did the cardinal sin of buying without seeing 🙂
ive bitten the bullet and purchased it and its now on the road to the rust merchants for a proper inspection.
the roof and floors seem solid other than the driver and passenger side floor which can apparently be patched,
should arrive up here in nsw next monday so ithen tll be clearer the amount of work and money that needs to be spent.
yes you guessed it..... i did the cardinal sin of buying without seeing 🙂
Klaus ·
look on just kampers as they have a good selection of lowlight metal at decent $$
greedy53 ·
been in salt water you will never save it
empi ·
Its a Bay!
Basixs ·
its currently in the operating room.
welded repairs
Front inner lower section, step to step
Front cabin floor areas left and right,
Jacking points all 4 both sides
Right hand battery tray
"bog" repairs
Right hand outer sill,
Left hand outer sill,
Right hand rear corner
Engine cover and left corner
Right outer step
Right hand door at handle
Right hand screen post at turret and lower frame
Left hand frame post at top and round lower window frame
how much should i be looking at paying?
welded repairs
Front inner lower section, step to step
Front cabin floor areas left and right,
Jacking points all 4 both sides
Right hand battery tray
"bog" repairs
Right hand outer sill,
Left hand outer sill,
Right hand rear corner
Engine cover and left corner
Right outer step
Right hand door at handle
Right hand screen post at turret and lower frame
Left hand frame post at top and round lower window frame
how much should i be looking at paying?
helbus ·
$7000 including paint.
Bizarre ·
Without being a smart arse - can I ask why??
If you are not going to do it yourself I am a bit surprised at the expense in front of you
There are a a couple of low lights on ebay at the moment that I think are real good value
This one in particular
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Volkswagen-Kombi-1971-Van-/110835176013?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item19ce4a924d
Its a panel - but you could set it up for camping if thats your thing.
personally i think its better not to cut the roof.
You will spend that much easily and this is a special model to boot
Just asking 👍
If you are not going to do it yourself I am a bit surprised at the expense in front of you
There are a a couple of low lights on ebay at the moment that I think are real good value
This one in particular
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Volkswagen-Kombi-1971-Van-/110835176013?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item19ce4a924d
Its a panel - but you could set it up for camping if thats your thing.
personally i think its better not to cut the roof.
You will spend that much easily and this is a special model to boot
Just asking 👍
Scottkombi ·
I had similar rot apart from the upper A pillars but more structural rot to the front chassis and I had mine lowered and without paint it cost $7,500. He didnt touch the rusty sill on the drivers door either - luckily my passenger door had been replaced and the sliding door was rot free just dented slightly. My tailgate and engine lid were also OK but rsut repairs required around the tailgate at the swage line and in under the tailgate seal. Lots of other fiddly bits too including inside the front fresh air intake.
But now its rot free apart from the original drivers door.
Your van is a rare beast so I would keep it.
But now its rot free apart from the original drivers door.
Your van is a rare beast so I would keep it.
Basixs ·
i was wondering what people thought the work listed would cost.
i have someone starting on it and am im happy with the price and his standard of work from what ive seen on his website and word of mouth. problem is there is quite a bit of mechanical work and other bits and pieces to purchase before i can get him/her on the rd. coming from interstate i have to re-register in NSW which means a more stringent check.
the item listed on ebay is nice but already at 10k with 6 days to run.....i was also slightly impatient
the bus i have purchased is the same as this 1 but not lowered....more rust....crappier paint etc etc
http://www.lowlight.com.au/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1312847431
a rare beast in itself....i dont know, i just like it
i have someone starting on it and am im happy with the price and his standard of work from what ive seen on his website and word of mouth. problem is there is quite a bit of mechanical work and other bits and pieces to purchase before i can get him/her on the rd. coming from interstate i have to re-register in NSW which means a more stringent check.
the item listed on ebay is nice but already at 10k with 6 days to run.....i was also slightly impatient
the bus i have purchased is the same as this 1 but not lowered....more rust....crappier paint etc etc
http://www.lowlight.com.au/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1312847431
a rare beast in itself....i dont know, i just like it
Bizarre ·
Then that is all that mattersBasixs wrote:i....i dont know, i just like it
Enjoy the journey 👍
68BUS ·
Basixs,
Don't be put off by the negative comments. There have been many of us that have started this and gotten to the point of giving up, hence why there are so many part done vans for sale.
If you have got the money, great! If not, just take your time.
If the rest of your van has the same amount of rust in the sills and jacking points then 7grand is not that unrealistic. That is not for a bog job though, that is for rust alone. There is a lot of work to get filler on and looking straight that would be above that.
Just see how you go and how well your money is lasting. You get an idea pretty quick.
From there you can decide what you will do yourself.
Best of luck and would be good if you start a resto thread with lots of pictures for the rest of us.
Where are you based by the way?
Cheers,
Brad
Don't be put off by the negative comments. There have been many of us that have started this and gotten to the point of giving up, hence why there are so many part done vans for sale.
If you have got the money, great! If not, just take your time.
If the rest of your van has the same amount of rust in the sills and jacking points then 7grand is not that unrealistic. That is not for a bog job though, that is for rust alone. There is a lot of work to get filler on and looking straight that would be above that.
Just see how you go and how well your money is lasting. You get an idea pretty quick.
From there you can decide what you will do yourself.
Best of luck and would be good if you start a resto thread with lots of pictures for the rest of us.
Where are you based by the way?
Cheers,
Brad
Scottkombi ·
There was one 71 lowlight that just finished on ebay (see link: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11010.m43.l1123/7?euid=04b86f9edc1f4fc386157baab528b78f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com.au%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D320857263430%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AWNA%3AAU%3A1123 ).
Which the seller said had only surface rust.
But even though he shows minimal photos and the entire front floor is like swiss cheese plus the back of the front wheel well will be rusty as it is rusty from the inside carco area and the dreaded front valance and sills arent shown nor is the windscreen sill and A pillars and it got up to $3500 + with no interior at all and tyres that are falling off.
You got a bargain my friend!
Which the seller said had only surface rust.
But even though he shows minimal photos and the entire front floor is like swiss cheese plus the back of the front wheel well will be rusty as it is rusty from the inside carco area and the dreaded front valance and sills arent shown nor is the windscreen sill and A pillars and it got up to $3500 + with no interior at all and tyres that are falling off.
You got a bargain my friend!
68BUS ·
Surface rust hey???
I reckon I could take to that with a screw driver and fill a Milo Tin!!
I reckon I could take to that with a screw driver and fill a Milo Tin!!
Klaus ·
should have bought my rust free rego ready 70 micro would have sold it for 5000
Basixs ·
well the work has been completed, this is the floor. the drivers side flexes under my foot constantly which is extremely annoying, i was advised to go with the mechanics patch rather than repro floor which i really should have done i think
Governor ·
Wow, if thats how they fix a floor? I would hate to see the rest!!
Obviously not a decent resto place
Obviously not a decent resto place
68BUS ·
Baxis,
If the work is done and you are not happy with it, take a few steps to correct / prevent further damage. (As it is you got it cheap so its not the end of the world).
Based on the photos the weld quality and penetration seem like they will be okay, would have to check the underside to be sure. But kombis are funny beasts, unlike beetles that have a chassis that un bolts from the body and provides the car with its strength, the kombi's bodu actually provides much of the cars strength which is why it is welded to the ladder frame. So if you now have a bunch of floppy panels it may eventualy lead to your door closures being out of what and sticking etc...
The floor repair should have had grooves in it as per original for strength, best bet would be to weld (or get them to as it is a defect) some 25x25x1.5-3mm angle on underneath it to strengthen it right up without being visible. Then for all the other repairs, get a bunch of fish oil or penetrol from Suapcheap and flood in behind sills, bottom of doors, lower front clip etc... They may not have used weld through primer in these areas. (And even if they have, if you want the van for more than 3 years it is worth doing).
But ultimately dont despair, just work with what you have to give you a safe and functioning van.
If the work is done and you are not happy with it, take a few steps to correct / prevent further damage. (As it is you got it cheap so its not the end of the world).
Based on the photos the weld quality and penetration seem like they will be okay, would have to check the underside to be sure. But kombis are funny beasts, unlike beetles that have a chassis that un bolts from the body and provides the car with its strength, the kombi's bodu actually provides much of the cars strength which is why it is welded to the ladder frame. So if you now have a bunch of floppy panels it may eventualy lead to your door closures being out of what and sticking etc...
The floor repair should have had grooves in it as per original for strength, best bet would be to weld (or get them to as it is a defect) some 25x25x1.5-3mm angle on underneath it to strengthen it right up without being visible. Then for all the other repairs, get a bunch of fish oil or penetrol from Suapcheap and flood in behind sills, bottom of doors, lower front clip etc... They may not have used weld through primer in these areas. (And even if they have, if you want the van for more than 3 years it is worth doing).
But ultimately dont despair, just work with what you have to give you a safe and functioning van.
Klaus ·
another way to remove the flex is to get a trolly jack and a big lump of timber , jack it up till it touches the underside and using a wide chisel or bricky bolster belt some grooves into the flat flooring
matberry ·
Cheap job...you get what you pay for. The end.
Scottkombi ·
If that is your only problem, I wouldnt worry - I know at least one other person with the same problem.
If it really drives you nuts get some floor section donor or new floor and have it welded in later on.
If the rest is now rot free - its all good.
If it really drives you nuts get some floor section donor or new floor and have it welded in later on.
If the rest is now rot free - its all good.
Basixs ·
thanks for all the responses.68BUS wrote:Baxis,
If the work is done and you are not happy with it, take a few steps to correct / prevent further damage. (As it is you got it cheap so its not the end of the world).
Based on the photos the weld quality and penetration seem like they will be okay, would have to check the underside to be sure. But kombis are funny beasts, unlike beetles that have a chassis that un bolts from the body and provides the car with its strength, the kombi's bodu actually provides much of the cars strength which is why it is welded to the ladder frame. So if you now have a bunch of floppy panels it may eventualy lead to your door closures being out of what and sticking etc...
The floor repair should have had grooves in it as per original for strength, best bet would be to weld (or get them to as it is a defect) some 25x25x1.5-3mm angle on underneath it to strengthen it right up without being visible. Then for all the other repairs, get a bunch of fish oil or penetrol from Suapcheap and flood in behind sills, bottom of doors, lower front clip etc... They may not have used weld through primer in these areas. (And even if they have, if you want the van for more than 3 years it is worth doing).
But ultimately dont despair, just work with what you have to give you a safe and functioning van.
i think a few of you would be suprised who has actually done the work he is well respected within the "Kombi community".
how much should i have paid to have a decent piece of metal welded into the floor or even if i had provided the repro pieces myself like i was going to originally?
no all the other rot hasn't gone, the rest of it was "bogged" other than under the front valance and the jacking points which does look like a good job. The rest i feel needs to be done again before i look at having a cheapish respray done.
so do i take it back and ask him to fix it or should i just go elsewhere?
please try and keep the comments positive.....just telling me "its a cheap job end of" isnt really constructive 🙂
Governor ·
That is a crap job full stop. It doesnt matter if they are a well respected place or not.
It also depends on what you asked for?
If you said you wanted the metal replaced as cheap as possible then that is what you got.
Its about 3-4 hours to replace that floor section with the correct repro part.
It also depends on what you asked for?
If you said you wanted the metal replaced as cheap as possible then that is what you got.
Its about 3-4 hours to replace that floor section with the correct repro part.
Pumba ·
i think a few of you would be suprised who has actually done the work he is well respected within the "Kombi community".
Tell us and see if we are surprised😉
Tell us and see if we are surprised😉
Basixs ·
i dont really want to start bad mouthing anyone to be honest, im new to this whole thing and dont want to start burning bridges just yet.
ive emailed him and await a response.
also could anyone tell me why it would have been registered as a 2 seater when it has 3 seats with belts in the front and 2 fixed seatbelts in the rear?
ive emailed him and await a response.
also could anyone tell me why it would have been registered as a 2 seater when it has 3 seats with belts in the front and 2 fixed seatbelts in the rear?
Governor ·
If its a camper? Most of them were reg as two seaters, you would need to get it engineered( depending on what state you are in) for it to carry more people.
Klaus ·
if all the factory brackets and seat belt holes with captive nuts are there just bolt all the original seats in and belts and get it ammended by a blue slip inspector if in nsw , done it a few times
68BUS ·
What Klaus said, A lot of campers have rock and roll beds in the back with seat belts but there are only a few sellers / types that have ADR (Aust Design Regs) approval. Kustom Kombi on the goldly has them for about $1000.
You would be the best judge of how happy you are with their work. If you are happy with what you got for the price then go to them and let them know that you are not happy with certain elements and can they do them in a different manner.
I would still very much recommend the use of some sort of treatment in the sills etc, We should all being doing that. If you have a lot of bog maybe go something that dries fully like penetrol ($13 for a spraypack from bunnings).
And don;t pay attention to people that have nothing better to do than bitch about things. You get them everywhere.
You would be the best judge of how happy you are with their work. If you are happy with what you got for the price then go to them and let them know that you are not happy with certain elements and can they do them in a different manner.
I would still very much recommend the use of some sort of treatment in the sills etc, We should all being doing that. If you have a lot of bog maybe go something that dries fully like penetrol ($13 for a spraypack from bunnings).
And don;t pay attention to people that have nothing better to do than bitch about things. You get them everywhere.
Basixs ·
thanks again.
mechanic is now saying i required it doing like that due to my budget. not true....i said i would supply the floor panels but he wanted to use his own pieces so he didnt have to fanny about making them fit.....i tried to go with what he suggested to make it easier for him, not wanting to upset him but i wasnt expecting a shoddy result at the end by doing so.
he has offered to shrink the metal in the floor to get rid of the "can"ing is this a good solution?
ive spoken to the blue slip guys who said to take it back out to them to check it.....should be able to have it changed to a 3/5 seater on re-inspection providing they were originally available like that.
mechanic is now saying i required it doing like that due to my budget. not true....i said i would supply the floor panels but he wanted to use his own pieces so he didnt have to fanny about making them fit.....i tried to go with what he suggested to make it easier for him, not wanting to upset him but i wasnt expecting a shoddy result at the end by doing so.
he has offered to shrink the metal in the floor to get rid of the "can"ing is this a good solution?
ive spoken to the blue slip guys who said to take it back out to them to check it.....should be able to have it changed to a 3/5 seater on re-inspection providing they were originally available like that.
Governor ·
Here is the panel you need,
Cab Floor Repair Drivers side 73-79
Right side cab floor repair for late bays
$79.00
or
Cab Floor Repair Drivers side 68-72
Right side cab floor repair
$79.00
from The Bus Stop
It should take no more than 2-3 hours to fit, that includes removing the old metal, done this a number of times
Its OK to say just get them to put some angle iron underneath it, but that is so dodgy, get it done properly the first time, when or if you come to sell it and the buyer sees angle iron or flat steel in there they will wonder what the rest is like?
Cab Floor Repair Drivers side 73-79
Right side cab floor repair for late bays
$79.00
or
Cab Floor Repair Drivers side 68-72
Right side cab floor repair
$79.00
from The Bus Stop
It should take no more than 2-3 hours to fit, that includes removing the old metal, done this a number of times
Its OK to say just get them to put some angle iron underneath it, but that is so dodgy, get it done properly the first time, when or if you come to sell it and the buyer sees angle iron or flat steel in there they will wonder what the rest is like?
Basixs ·
what can i say other than this guy is a complete shyster.
cam070 ·
If it makes you feel any better I had a rubbish rust repair done by a company that I thought was a reputable business in Blacktown. There are so many dodgy rust repair people in the industry.
Basixs ·
thanks mate, its not just the rust reapairs that were done badly it was the charging me for $1600 worth of engine work to then be told the engines screwed after he'd done it not to mention my exhaust and tow bar being removed without authorisation.cam070 wrote:If it makes you feel any better I had a rubbish rust repair done by a company that I thought was a reputable business in Blacktown. There are so many dodgy rust repair people in the industry.
the lies about putting fuel in but the fuel guage not working....it works when i put fuel in and calling me an idiot because im not a bloody mechanic.
Karma is due to pay him a visit.
vw54 ·
I fail to see how you can say BEWARE of a business
when you state you have no skills or knowledge on how to do this job, including mechanical knowledge
Yes you should have got a some sort of firm ball park quote but dont critise a business for not doing a job
Rust repairs are a CAN OF WORMS no one can quote to the exact cent when a car has not been fully stripped of paint and rust in a chemical bath
when you state you have no skills or knowledge on how to do this job, including mechanical knowledge
Yes you should have got a some sort of firm ball park quote but dont critise a business for not doing a job
Rust repairs are a CAN OF WORMS no one can quote to the exact cent when a car has not been fully stripped of paint and rust in a chemical bath
h ·
erm yeah but it looks as if apprentice 'visually impared' freddy worked thru smoko
very ordinary
very ordinary
Basixs ·
quite easily from all the comments i have received from this thread and a number of other forums not to mention the NRMA breakdown guy, the tow truck driver and a couple of local panel beaters.vw54 wrote:I fail to see how you can say BEWARE of a business
when you state you have no skills or knowledge on how to do this job, including mechanical knowledge
Yes you should have got a some sort of firm ball park quote but dont critise a business for not doing a job
Rust repairs are a CAN OF WORMS no one can quote to the exact cent when a car has not been fully stripped of paint and rust in a chemical bath
im not quite sure how you can be backing this business other than if he's a mate?
the work has been done to a poor standard, there are still holes in the floor and windscreen which should have been sorted......thats not even getting to the mechanical side and the things gone missing from my bus either.....
are you saying this is a good standard of work?
adamstuart ·
Don't mean to resurrect this thread, but apparently I lurk too much and haven't posted enough to PM.
Basixs, I'm over in Quakers Hill, presumably not too far from you if you took it to blacktown to be done.
If you need small welding jobs done, i'm happy to help you out.
I'm not a panel beater, a painter or a mechanic, just a fellow enthusiast.
But hell, I could fix the floor better than that.
Feel free to shoot me an email at adamstuart.h@gmail.com if you need a hand.
Basixs, I'm over in Quakers Hill, presumably not too far from you if you took it to blacktown to be done.
If you need small welding jobs done, i'm happy to help you out.
I'm not a panel beater, a painter or a mechanic, just a fellow enthusiast.
But hell, I could fix the floor better than that.
Feel free to shoot me an email at adamstuart.h@gmail.com if you need a hand.
Mr Bubble Head ·
Sorry to see your not happy with the work it does seem to look like a rough rush job. A tip I've learnt from a similar experience is if the engine is broke take it to a mechanic, If the interior is torn take it to a trimmer, if there's a dent or rust take it to a body shop. There's heaps places which deal with basically servicing or mechanical road worthy issues which is great that's there bread and butter. Some of these places will turn there hand to things like welding but don't expect a perfect result it's not really there trade. Sometimes they will bite off more than they can Handel and rush these jobs. I've seen it a million times the boss will say can you rebuild the carbs and weld the floor in this bus for the customer, and the mechanic thinks wtf I'm a mechanic not a fabricator welder. So from the start its never going to see the love from him. The carbs will work a treat though and the care factor for the rust repair is zero. Sometimes the boss will take the money and run without caring if there's a basic level of skill for all of the works undertaken.
Basically don't ask a plumber to bake you a birthday cake
Basically don't ask a plumber to bake you a birthday cake