fly wheel nut

So the donk's out and the preasure plate's off (should there be split washers under the preasure plate bolts?) now I've got to get the 36mm nut off to remove the fly wheel, any tips on how to hold the fly wheel from turning while getting the BBN off?
Thanks
Don

a lump of angle with a few holes sp as you can bolt it to the fly wheel

then just use your big socket and breaker bar

Have a look here
http://914ev.blogspot.com.au/2007/03/flywheel-and-engine-mount-removal.html

or

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bankier/5997705472/

Great,thanks Bizarre, back to the shed. 😁

you should also have a concave spring washer behind the nut too. If not got one buy one b4 refitting 😉

Oh and a trick for doing the nut back up without a torque wrench.

Weight yourself and convert into pounds. Now divide 217 by your weight. The answer is the length in feet you need to stand from the centre of the nut to do the nut upto 217lbft 🙂

donn wrote:So the donk's out and the pressure plate's off (should there be split washers under the pressure plate bolts?) now I've got to get the 36mm nut off to remove the fly wheel, any tips on how to hold the fly wheel from turning while getting the BBN off?
Thanks
Don

there is a small special tool that holds the teeth on the ring gear
someone may be able to lend You one...
otherwise try to bolt a long piece of steel angle to the flywheel.

I bolted the angle to My alloy crankshaft pulley and it broke the pulley... so don't do that.... lol

usually 5ft piece of pipe on a breaker bar...
1/2 inch breaker bar..
although I snapped off My Son's new 1/2 drive breaker bar
had to use 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket...

are You going to paint your engine Donn?????

and no split washers on pressure plate... as when tensioning the bolts, the washers could show an incorrect reading especially when some tension is used to hold the bolts.
also, the washers are the weak link... they are able to come loose if they spread while tensioning/tightening so aren't used
If washers are used they would be the waved type..

cheers

LEE

there is a small special tool that holds the teeth on the ring gear

You can buy this from Meyers Manx Australia.

http://www.meyersmanx.com.au/FLYWHEEL-LOCK-6-AND-12-VOLT-P230.aspx

I'm too cheap to buy fancy locking tools.
Like Bizarre says piece of angle works well.

Other side is drilled out for doing the same thing with axle nuts.

Hi

The M8 pressure plate bolts usually have a wave washer under them.

You can also use the original VW spark plug tube spanner to lock the flywheel or any bit of tube really. One end of the tube spanner locks into the teeth and the other against the heaterbox pipe near the head flange.

Steve

68AutoBug wrote:there is a small special tool that holds the teeth on the ring gear
LEE

Donn,

I have one of these tools. I was going to try and catch up with you this week to pick up the breast tin for Matt (and have a yarn if we have time). I could bring the tool with me if you wish.

Actually, I will put it in the car anyway - that way I will have it with me.

i use an old crankshaft pulley with a piece of pipe welded to it ,especially good for the semi autos

A vw spark plug spanner fitted between the flywheel teeth and the exhaust flange will hold the flywheel,Joel's angle iron works exceptionally well and also stabilises the engine the tool that goes onto the engine bolt is sometimes iffy as i have seen the studs bent and broken off.

I bought the special tool from CIP1 last year and it is brilliant. Cost about US$90.
Also does rear axle nuts. It works by multiplying torque (about 5x) with a small gear drive.
It works so well you can remove nuts with a 3/8 drive ratchet if theyre not totally frozen on.
Wouldn't be without it!

x2 on the CIP tool.
Just makes it soooo much easier.

Ok lads, we are talking about removing the gland nut but I would like some advise on doing the bastard up. Firstly I don't have a tension wrench that goes up to 230lb or whatever it is meant to be.

I want to know can you just doing it up using a piece of pipe f*%#en tight and maybe put some lock tight on there.

Sorry Donn for hijacking your thread, but I thought this maybe something you also want to know and I am at this stage now.

Cheers, Kev

Good point, Kev. When I did the 356 engine for the Cooper, and asked around a bit, I decided to buy a REALLY GOOD nut [Rod Penrose had one]. I won't tell what torque I tightened it to, but it was more than Porsche spec!

When you work out what torque [pound/foot] you need, get on the bathroom scales and note your weight - in POUNDS. Divide the required torque by your weight [pounds], and you have the distance in feet, from the centre of the nut to where your weight must be. Put a mark on the bar [or pipe] at this point. With the bar horizontal, and a hand either side of the mark, lift BOTH feet off the floor. It's that easy.👍

Hi Greg,

thanks for that, but if I go off your calculations I have to hang off a bar at the 1.25ft mark. That's only about the length of a standard sidchrome breaker bar.

I don't mean to argue with your wisdom and maths, but this doesn't seem like it would be tight enough.

I had my weight on a bar about 3 feet long to crack it and yes I understand that it may take more to undo it.

Anyone else got any input or good ideas on how to get it to correct tension without tension wrench.

Also, what about using loctite ??

Thanks again, Kev

Lucky Phil wrote:I bought the special tool from CIP1 last year and it is brilliant. Cost about US$90.
Also does rear axle nuts. It works by multiplying torque (about 5x) with a small gear drive.
It works so well you can remove nuts with a 3/8 drive ratchet if theyre not totally frozen on.
Wouldn't be without it!

This tool is also used to tighte these nuts too.
Nuts are tightened with a normal tension wrench to about 28 foot lb. easy as.