Thought i would use some spare parts form the garage to build a BUGGET race car to have some fun.
The idea is to keep the build cost way down and the maintenanece that doesn't exceed the auto's diff gears or case. But i still want to go as fast or faster than my black kombi if i can.
This is some of the stuff from my parts bin.
1 x 66 vw notch
2L kombi auto
1800 auto diff gears (4.360)
4000 rpm stall converter
13b cosmo, s4 rotors (8.4:1 comp)
Microtech Lt-8s
6 x 1700cc injectors
3 x 910 bosh fuel pumps
malpassi fuel reg
M/T street radials (275 or 235)
2 x garrett gt40 turbos with .96 to4 exhaust housings
11CAB ·
What happened to the Splitty?
20bkombi ·
I have already started machining the exhaust housings and spacer plates. The gt40's come with 1.18 (45 style), with would be to big for what I need so i've machined the .96 (T04 style) housings to suit the bigger gt40 rear wheel. They needed 7.4mm spacers to mate them together.
20bkombi ·
11CAB wrote:What happened to the Splitty?
The splitty will end up with my 20bt and a very custom vw 010 auto/9'' dif $$$$, The type 3 is for some fun and more R&D leading to the splitty. So the bus won't be for a while.
And I want a cheap kicker for now.😂😂
tar76 ·
Looking froward to watching/reading about this notch coming together 😎
Stanley ·
About freak in time Aaron. I've been posting type 3 pics to get you motivated. Will look forward to this.
1916baja ·
👍
Stanley ·
Additionally, those rear over riders would look on my notch. Think of the weight saving....😀
20bkombi ·
Stanley wrote:About freak in time Aaron. I've been posting type 3 pics to get you motivated. Will look forward to this.
😂
hey stanley do you still have that race seat for sale??
Stanley ·
Yep...it's yours if you want it
20bkombi ·
Here's some pics of the spacers to fit the small housings on the gt40's
T04 exhaust housing fitted
this shows how much bigger they are over a single 13b turbo. Together they should get a 13b spinning!!!!
I machined and polished the compressors too.
Stanley ·
In the nicest possible way you're a freak Aaron
20bkombi ·
Stanley wrote:In the nicest possible way you're a freak Aaron
🥲🥲🥲
I dont understand why people keep saying this 😂
With the turbos done, I'll start porting the engine, and remove some of the 3er panels, interior, engine & box.
nbturbo ·
As usual top class stuff. Love looking at your work.
dangerous ·
Ah, good work dude,
I'll take that gearbox off your hans to help the funds department.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
So is the notch going to be flat black to keep it in the family so to speak LOL
20bkombi ·
Stanley wrote:Yep...it's yours if you want it
Pm sent
20bkombi ·
dangerous wrote:Ah, good work dude,
I'll take that gearbox off your hans to help the funds department.
Thanks Dave, every bit helps!
Stanley ·
what colour....flat black?
mackaymanx ·
I didn't think the 1800 auto(003) diff gears fitted the 2L auto. Are the pinion shaft interchangable or are you changing the pinion gears on the shaft?
20bkombi ·
Yep, mat black with orange roll cage, stripes and wheels.
I just use the 1800 crown wheel and the pinion gear, not the pinion shaft.
The 2L diff center has larger stub shafts and planetary gears.
humpty ·
Wow...... I am so looking forward to this project progressing.... Huge fan of TIII's and Notch's in particular.... Will be looking forward to seeing how you make the rear end work with a horsepower injection!
20bkombi ·
At the moment I'm thinking of removing the 1966 3er torsion tube with horns and using 70's wagon
Tube and torsion bars, and kombi axles and bearing housing with extended tube diagonal arms.
Also make the spring plates longer.
I'll start with kombi c/v's and go from there.
matberry ·
20bkombi wrote:Yep, mat black with orange roll cage, stripes and wheels.
Sounds great 👍👍
Longer spring plates will require even bigger torsions (for your already heavier and more powerful engine).
20bkombi ·
Yeah I know, I was going to make the plates not much longer than stock length and cut the centre out of the torsion tube to allow the engine and box to go further forward shortening the bars, turning them down to get the right pressure.
I'll see when I do a dummy set up.
humpty ·
Why not forget about the torsions and the springplates all together?.... Just fit rose joint trailing links and coil shocks..... Much easier to tune the suspension then, and getting your toe angles bang on will be a snack!
20bkombi ·
humpty wrote:Why not forget about the torsions and the springplates all together?.... Just fit rose joint trailing links and coil shocks..... Much easier to tune the suspension then, and getting your toe angles bang on will be a snack!
Yes it would be easier but I don't have coil overs on the shelf, I do have torsion bars though!! :-) limited $$$
2442supercharged ·
do you think the kombi cv's will be enough for your horsepower
matberry ·
2442supercharged wrote:do you think the kombi cv's will be enough for your horsepower
My guess is same answer applies, and I gather it'll be auto ???
humpty ·
20bkombi wrote:
humpty wrote:Why not forget about the torsions and the springplates all together?.... Just fit rose joint trailing links and coil shocks..... Much easier to tune the suspension then, and getting your toe angles bang on will be a snack!
Yes it would be easier but I don't have coil overs on the shelf, I do have torsion bars though!! :-) limited $$$
Fair enough....
20bkombi ·
matberry wrote:
2442supercharged wrote:do you think the kombi cv's will be enough for your horsepower
My guess is same answer applies, and I gather it'll be auto ???
That's right Matt. It will be auto.
All the way till 2006 I ran kombi cv's in the black bus, back then had 430hp 12.1 1/4,
7.60 on the 1/8. I did break a few but that bus is more then twice the weight of the 3er.
Looking at using 4 calipers on the rear insted of a trans break the cv's will be preloaded on the line, can always
up grade later.
The trick is to use old ones (worn in), I broke all the new ones I put in.
20bkombi ·
moving on to the body.
its had a new front cut, then they hit somthing again
found some fly screen and a paint brush
time to start cutting🥲😂
humpty ·
Yum.... TIII rust and some hidden treasures...... The Split bus guys will be queuing up for that transaxle and brakes Aaron.... More bux for the coffers!
20bkombi ·
humpty wrote:The Split bus guys will be queuing up for that transaxle and brakes Aaron.... More bux for the coffers!
That box is sold, but I have another for sale.
The more I cut out the less rust repairs to fix.
Unfortunately there was not 1cent found, typical Vw!!! 😂
matberry ·
Crikey, no coins........who owned it before?
I'll often recover a few dollars at least in a Volksie (all given back to the owner of course 😉 ), the last Porsche floor replacement was positively a gold mine !!!!!!
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
The first dual cab my uncle did we found over $30 in coins under the rear seat and the heater pipes and ducting under the dash were stuffed with bags of wacky tobaccy!! Very very old stuff as it disintegrated when we pulled it out of the pipes into almost dust!!
The more you cut out Aaron the less rust repairs!! Looks like a lot of cutting lol
Stanley ·
AAAAARRRROOONNN....have you seen the bar stools. They were here this morning....😀
essex ·
Stanley wrote:AAAAARRRROOONNN....have you seen the bar stools. They were here this morning....😀
that's the first thing I saw too...
matberry ·
Go man. cut cut cut.👍👍👍👍
20bkombi ·
Stanley wrote:AAAAARRRROOONNN....have you seen the bar stools. They were here this morning....😀
You need a kitchen to have stools.😂😂😂
20bkombi ·
cut...cut...cut!!!!
just need to cut a bit more above the tyre for travel, then sort out the torsion tube then on to the pan and front beam.
I can see it finished already🤪🤪
vassy66T1 ·
Faarrrrkk
That looks awesome !!!! 😀
20bkombi ·
Thanks Marcus, long week end coming up too. I'll have two full days to play but need to start on engine machining very soon.
humpty ·
That is freakin' insane Aaron..... Amazingly fast work, but crazy cool too!.... Can't wait to see what's next.... 👍👍
essex ·
thats a lot of cutting!
cam070 ·
Certainly some weight shedding going on there.
modnrod ·
Gday Aaron.
That looks cool man! I just love Type 3s, dunno why really, go figure! 😂
Now that you've cut it all out, I spose this is the wrong time to suggest considering that instead of cutting down the torsion housing and shortening the torsion bars (if I have that right?), coilovers like Simon suggested can be had as cheap as chips under the front of damn near every old Datto or Tojo little sedan from the 70s and 80s to boost up the spring rate. Seen them used on the back of Super Sedans (in the good old days at least, less now that lots of people have a "shiny stuff" fetish) with 4-links to good effect.
I have a Kombi auto and a few bits like a future Oxyboxer and a couple of T4 bits staring forlornly at me out in the shed, and dreams of a type 3.........now you have me feeling all fired up again dammit! HAHA!
Can't wait to see the old girl scare the crap out of the shiny Commodes at the track.
20bkombi ·
Thanks for the nice comments guys!!
I think I'd rather go air bags like my bus if i hah ghe money, easy to tune, change hight. ect....
Probably just because I've used them before.
typethreeking ·
Your out of control!!! At this rate you'll be finished before me!!!
20bkombi ·
Still a long way the go, this is the easy part 🙂
humpty ·
20bkombi wrote:Still a long way the go, this is the easy part 🙂
Really?..... I find it very hard to cut up cars.... Even rusty ones!
thatshimofficer ·
humpty wrote:
20bkombi wrote:Still a long way the go, this is the easy part 🙂
Really?..... I find it very hard to cut up cars.... Even rusty ones!
You best avoid anything I do then Simon!
20bkombi ·
20bkombi wrote:long week end coming up too. I'll have two full days to play but need to start on engine machining very soon.
Not much fab work as planed but I did pick up a kombi rear end
And fuel tank from Dave Richardson, a 70's beetle front beam and race seat from Stanley, And Dave Butler helped out buy buying all my old gear boxes.
Thanks guys for helping out!!
Tonight I cut and shortened a kombi rear torsion tube by 7"each side, and the stepped the bearing carrier out 65mm for the 295 M/T,s. Still need another set of spring plates for strength because of the offset.
The torsion tube will end up 5" higher than stock and 2" forward.
Still have to make the torsion bars fit.
Pics soon, Aaron.
Sides ·
Definitely speeding through dude... love it !!!
👍
Curious with all the talk of beams and torsion bar positioning and also that the cross section under the back seat is still there... I'd assumed tube car, but maybe is gonna be a pan car ???
empi ·
Should have just started with a roof section and some guards!! Wow keep it up intreagued to see what goes on here.
20bkombi ·
Sides wrote:Definitely speeding through dude... love it !!!
👍
Curious with all the talk of beams and torsion bar positioning and also that the cross section under the back seat is still there... I'd assumed tube car, but maybe is gonna be a pan car ???
It will be a bit of both, all the pan will stay and will be joined to the cage from fron beam to the rear beam and so on!
still dreaming, i have to see what its going to look like
The tube was shortrend by 14''🤪🤪🤪
making the kombi rear like a type 1,3
20bkombi ·
Sorry ill edit the pic tomorrow they went out of order and double ups
modnrod ·
The more I look at that rear end stuff, the more I realise how heavy it looks!
Keep going man, this is cool. 🙂
humpty ·
Why the Bus rear end?
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Auto and rotor is a heavy combo!!
20bkombi ·
humpty wrote:Why the Bus rear end?
It ended up like this as,
• I wanted to run kombi stub axles ( thicker)
• it comes with heavier spring rate for the weight of the rotary, two T04's, auto and the lengthining of the spring plates.
• larger diameter torsion tube to weld the cage to
• tube steel diagonal arms are easy to shorten
• over all strength, who know how much power this could end up with????
20bkombi ·
I have a few ideas on lightening the suspension, but that can happen later.
Although things are moving along quickly, there has been a lot of thought gone into this build and always open to suggestions.
I have all day and night to think about each part and plan for the future.
This is better spent time than rework on the black bus.
20bkombi ·
Nearly finished rear end
Engine and box 5'' forward than stock
nothing has been welded. I'll have gas on saterday, so let the fun begin!!!!
SebastienPeek ·
Wow, very impressive work Aaron!
I am very excited to see what comes of Saturday that is for sure!
matberry ·
Love the narrowed design concepts.👍👍👍
20bkombi ·
Thanks Matt and Sebastien, I'll probably change the torsion extentions and make it like my bus with cut bars, but at the moment this set up will be easy to tune by starting stiffer and machining the bars down as i need.
Sat wont look like much but all the rear suspension will be welded and front beam narrowed with adjusters.
Mabe some rust repairs too. It won't look like much work but its the little things that take time.
After all this the cage will begin!!
20bkombi ·
I'm going to move the pivot boxes in 15mm just for a little extra trianglation ( if that's a word?) for the diagonals, it's just getting a little narrow.
Turbo54 ·
aaron,
Have you ever seen the black Mazda 323 13B turbo running in the supercharged outlaw class?I have never seen a little car launch so hard ever. Was out of control.
This is really cool.
T54
humpty ·
Another benefit with the drive sitting that far forward over stock, is your CV's will be very happy.... Good move.
Amazingly fast work Aaron.
empi ·
Oooh uz been a busy boy!! 🤖
Hurry up i wanna see more.😀
1916baja ·
Far out Aaron you work fast!
20bkombi ·
Not as much done as planed but still moving forward.
Cleaned and narrowed the (type 1) front beam 3'', now the tyres sit 105mm in from the guards, also cut some of the front body but still needs more, as there's still more rust😂😂
made a jig for drilling the dimples from the old center of the original beam.
20bkombi ·
Now back to the rear end and weld up the torsion tube, mount it to the pan temporally then on to the roll cage.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looking good mate!!
humpty ·
Welcome to Aaron's Speed Shop..... We build'em fast! 😂
20bkombi ·
humpty wrote:Welcome to Aaron's Speed Shop..... We build'em fast! 😂
That's funny :-)
But those who know me or have seen me work know that this is my normal pace, and you have to remember that I don't go to pubs, do drugs, wach much tv, or follow many other sports, footy,ect.
That leaves a lot of shed time. Im also impatient with my self and can't sit still, why walk when you can run.
You guys could probably explain me better.....?
20bkombi ·
And to think I've been married for 7 years TODAY.
I don't know how Bec's put up with me and Vw's for 12years total.😍
1916baja ·
Congrats mate! When i met my wife Lisa, she wouldn't even get in a beach buggy.... Now look at her! She owned one less than a year into dating me! Now she has the Kombi!
humpty ·
Oh I'm familiar with your work ethic Aaron, but its still warrants a pat on the back.... Keep it up! 😵💫
And the ladies are saints as far as I'm concerned.... Yes.... Even my ex is awesome about this past time we invest so much in!
20bkombi ·
To night I cut that bit of rust i found out of the front, and welded up the rear end.
these are the out board tubes i welded to the spring plate
and the spline on the end
I'll finish the rear tomorrow and tack it to the pan
humpty ·
Damn that's some pretty welds.... 😍
modnrod ·
You crack me up Aaron! Race car engineering the easy way, HAHA!
Just a giggle, not being at all rude, but if you found a small bubble of rust on a beetle roof, would you fix it by making it into a convertible? 😁
Keep it going, it's great stuff!
Flintstones ·
and the rust thought it had a chance 😂
some nice work 👍
Cheers
D
20bkombi ·
modnrod wrote:You crack me up Aaron! Race car engineering the easy way, HAHA!
Just a giggle, not being at all rude, but if you found a small bubble of rust on a beetle roof, would you fix it by making it into a convertible? 😁
Keep it going, it's great stuff!
Thanks every one, love the comments!!
I have the flue but pushing on through.
I bent some extra spring plates, slotted them, machined the cast diagonals for larger pipe which is thinner, welded it all to the pan, allowing for camber and toe.
new diagonals
20bkombi ·
Now the rear is in i can test full wheel travel and see where the turbo's are going to sit so i can make the cage to suit.
essex ·
Very nice.
essex ·
Like the notching idea using the lathe!
Stanley ·
Good stuff Aaron...keep it comin'. Get some vitamin c into ya.
1916baja ·
That's incredible work! You're mental! Love it.
humpty ·
Skillz.... Yeah you got'em! 😵
hypo-vw ·
looks great Aaron ..... nice bends on the cage 👍
mactaylor ·
good stuff cant wait to see more!
empi ·
Wholy Flerkin Schnit!!🤪
Keep it up.
20bkombi ·
Thanks everyone!!
I'm sitll very fluey, had all the right drugs, so should be good for the weekend. Man this sucks...cough,cough.
Bec's making me chicken soup, yummm!!
Did a little tonight.
Turbos are in position, rear stays and adaptor plate are welded in, now for all the supports.
Every thing is centered from the line.
1916baja ·
That's awesome man, i can't wait to see it run!
11CAB ·
So we'll see this running at Warwick in October..... 😂
20bkombi ·
11CAB wrote:So we'll see this running at Warwick in October..... 😂
That's the plan, I might have to borrow Bec's motor, turbo and box as money is getting low.
I'll just do what I can and if it doesn't make it I still have the bus to race 🥲
typethreeking ·
worlds fastest drag car build!!🤪
Stanley ·
Sorry mate I may have been the carrier of you flu. Mmmmm....chicken soup.
20bkombi ·
No. I've seen day by day, a full drag car built in 4 weeks, drive in to cut up to staging at the tree, show condition!!
But 7 specialist men working full time.
I'm not going to rush, it needs to be right.
That's ok Stanley, it was worth the soup!!
omszee ·
totally AWESOME, i got a type three and you are giving me some ideas of doing something similar ..
Boostn ·
Not surprisingly Awesome!
You crack me up Aaron.
JVLRacing ·
20bkombi wrote:No. I've seen day by day, a full drag car built in 4 weeks, drive in to cut up to staging at the tree, show condition!!
But 7 specialist men working full time.
I'm not going to rush, it needs to be right.
That's ok Stanley, it was worth the soup!!
pfft we use to build supertourers in two weeks with 3 blokes😂
not bad mate😎
Dak-A-Tak ·
The Soup , I feel there is a race car name there .
Look deep into the soup and you will see new idea's , plus the soup bowl , may end up used in the build to .
Have your thought about the tranny blanket ?
11CAB ·
Like this????
20bkombi ·
Dak-A-Tak wrote:The Soup , I feel there is a race car name there .
Look deep into the soup and you will see new idea's , plus the soup bowl , may end up used in the build to .
Have your thought about the tranny blanket ?
😂The soup was chicken (rotisserie, rotary)😂
I have made room for a ballistic blanket or scatter shield for when I go faster than 11.0 or 7.01/8 mile, at this stage becs engine and turbo are looking good so should only see 7.6's I guess.
I keep the andra book close and read the wording carefully.
modnrod ·
11CAB wrote:Like this????
😂😂😂
20bkombi ·
It stands on its own suspension
lower side bars, front top bar, 4 front bars to beam all done.
only 23 bars to go!!!!!
geting the right size tyre under the front (145x15)
Stanley ·
Awesome stuff Aaron...lovin' it 👍
tar76 ·
Stanley wrote:Awesome stuff Aaron...lovin' it 👍
Me to, this is insane!
modnrod ·
Very cool man!
I still can't believe how fast you work.
I'd love to see this thing popping wheels all over the track
matberry ·
👍👍
humpty ·
OMFG!
JVLRacing ·
goin thru alot of popcorn here🤪
typethreeking ·
Lookin good mate, you putting the old front back on ( removable) ??
vassy66T1 ·
Liking the way this is heading 👍👍
thatshimofficer ·
Awesome build... Would love to see this car, and my Notch parked side by side one day... I'll make it happen I reckon... Even if I have to send mine interstate for it!
What size are the rear treads you are using there? They Look meaty!
cam070 ·
Do you actually sleep?
bugzla ·
good to see another great vw rota build
20bkombi ·
typethreeking wrote:Lookin good mate, you putting the old front back on ( removable) ??
Thanks for the kind words guys!!
The old front is now bolt on/off, same as the rear.
The bonnet and boot will open as normal but the front guards will be attached to the apron as one then bolted on/off to body, same goes for the rear.
You will see pics soon.
The rear tyres are 275's but measure 295mm...11.5"
Glad to keep y'all entertained😂
Dak-A-Tak ·
Well done Aron & Bec , be good seeing a Type3 notch racing .
AAAARRHHH
20bkombi ·
Dak-A-Tak wrote:Well done Aron & Bec , be good seeing a Type3 notch racing .
AAAARRHHH , Car is a race car , so trans shield or Blanket cover sould be put on before racing .Doesn't matter what times .
Tech dictates this before racing mate , Its to protect you and others , Just like a race suit and helmet .
Just becouse Craigs event (warwick) is vw's ,. rules are rules.
Not trying to be a pain in your arsss , but Craigs event is a Andra event .
A couple of cars at Sydney shouldn't been allowed to race . This doesn't happpen any where else in drag racing .
Thanks, pete!!
No sweat mate!! At least we know you've got our Back when it comes to safety and rules, specially the new comers.
I had another look at the book and can't see that I fit any category below
4.2.1.1 Auto Transmission/Protection
The following vehicles using automotive based automatic transmissions, must be fitted with an approved ballistic blanket, a protective shield fabricated from a minimum 6mm (1/4 inch) aluminium or 3mm (1/8 inch) steel offering 180 degrees of protection (pan rail to pan rail), mounted securely with two steel straps 3mm thick and 25mm wide passing under the transmission, or any transmission shield meeting SFI 4.1 installed to manufacturers requirements.
• All dragsters / altereds / funny cars.
• All vehicles using transmission brakes.
• All supercharged vehicles (inc. nitrous oxide) with an ET quicker than 11.00 (1/4 mile)/7.00 (1/8 mile). • All vehicles quicker than 10.00 (1/4 mile)/6.50(1/8 mile).
Any external shield or blanket must be removed from the vehicle for checking during the Technical Inspection.
4.2.1.2 Auto Transmission/Coolers
All vehicles fitted with a transmission cooler must use industry standard cooler lines and barbed fittings and correct clamps as a minimum. Rubber fuel line, or hosing not meeting industry standards for the application, is not permitted.
Doesn't state about race car or street car?
The way I saw it was as long as I don't go faster than 7.0 1/8th I'm fine.
Would like to clear this up as I would need to sell more stuff to order one.
Regards aaron
Stanley ·
20bkombi wrote:Would like to clear this up as I would need to sell more stuff to order one.
Regards aaron
x2
nbturbo ·
Aaron,I have the same dilemma with my car. I have studied the rule book and if you read that line about the cutoff time- it actually reads quicker than 6.5. The Tech guy here has been no help. I didn't factor in needing anything as I was building my car.
20bkombi ·
nbturbo wrote:Aaron,I have the same dilemma with my car. I have studied the rule book and if you read that line about the cutoff time- it actually reads quicker than 6.5. The Tech guy here has been no help. I didn't factor in needing anything as I was building my car.
I assumed that the 6.5 was for N/A, I could be wrong though. Can any one else shed some light???
modnrod ·
The rule book says (in a nutshell) anything quicker than 11.00 (7.00 1/8) with ANY forced induction, and ANY vehicle quicker than 10.00 (6.50 1/8), and also ANY vehicle running a transbrake. The ANDRA guys will let you run without one fitted until you get past those performance limits. If you turn up at a "regional" meeting at a country track, they probably won't even check for a shield, as most of them would be dead-set shocked to see a dak-dak run well into the 6's anyway (obviously apart from those guys who have been at the Jamboree-style events of the past and recently). If you get it tech inspected, and they ask about a shield, they can't force it to be done until you reach those performance limits.
Having said that, I still have vivid memories of a Hemi 6 standard (cast.......aaaagghh! what was I thinking!) flywheel coming apart on a flat-shift from 2nd to 3rd (3sp box) at 6750. Half of it went down, half up, and a large chunk of something (bellhousing, flywheel, engine block, gearbox.......who knows?) went out the side of the tunnel, over my left knee, between both my arms, and took out the drivers window at about 90MPH. I also remember watching a mate in his V8 Cortina vanish behind a huge cloud of smoke across the finish line, as his converter blew up at 130........all you could see was this giant cloud, with smoking bits of oily alloy tumbling down the track out of the smoke cloud. That's the reason for all the rules I guess. Me personally I won't run any flywheel other than steel on anything, and since I like the little bottles a lot, anything I run on juice (actually, I can't remember anything that hasn't recently! HAHA!), all my stuff has at least a scatter shield of some sort due to previous dunderhead moments 🤪 or a serious balloon shield on the converter, and obviously very hefty driveshaft loops, even on dak-daks.
I know I'm preaching to the converted here, and you blokes all know your stuff, but even if it was my car with my daughter driving it, ONLY because all that stuff is safely behind you not next to your legs, I wouldn't worry about it until you reach the performance limits, or know you will for a fact. Aaron, your little hotrod at about 20-25psi boost I will guess at around 400 Moroso HP, and the weight on the line at around 1500lbs, so according to the slide rule with traction and ideal gearing you MIGHT be running high 8s at 150MPH............
Better buy a chute as well mate!
Have a bloody good time, don't get to hung up on the ANDRA stuff, but just go by the book and you'll be fine. That cage you're making is a work of art, and DAMN I wish I could weld half as good as some of you blokes!
I'm living vicariously through your exploits! 😁
Dak-A-Tak ·
Aaron , Yes , I changed my post , to keep the peace with everyone . But its about safety for everyone . It really gets under my skin that vw people go on about this et rule and try to avoid the real picture .
This Tech et rule is drag racings biggest bullshit rule out there .
Your cars performance will past that et quickly and is being built as a drag race car so should be Tech on that from the start .( my personal belief)
The funny thing is Troys full chassis car has to have a inspection at chassis stage and then another for full tech before he can even go down the track .
This is why its so wrong , your car or mine isn't any different when you start looking at the modifications dune . ( its a full on drag car )
Your car is a supercharged sedan and comes under the super sedan class rules . ( doesn't matter thats it rear engine )
Class rules are part of it but quality of work and engineering of car is what its all about .
ANDRA can walk up to anyone and say get a tech mate based on its potential .
I can go on and on about what could happen at the track ( look at Michael Nash ) .
Yes , I may be stepping on toes with everyone but build your car to its fastest et potential when it comes to class items and safety once .
I know money is a big part of your direction and decisions .
You have my phone number if you want to chew my ear .
Peter P
westi ·
gooo pete.
yeh guy's good piont with all the mods your doing get it signed of by a techky.
when it's a moded as yours is better to go overboard ,and do it all.you know it will be fast so don't fuck around with maybe's.
as for the build up aaron it's lookin good,but too heavy for my liking.ahahhaahahahahh.couple more pounds of boost will fix that.lol
keep it up mate.
when r u going to bring out the old girl pete.
matberry ·
mmm yep, sorry Aaron, I'm with Pete and Westi, forced induction pure race car=scattershield and tech
whathaveidone ·
Dak-A-Tak wrote:Aaron , Yes , I changed my post , to keep the peace with everyone . But its about safety for everyone . It really gets under my skin that vw people go on about this et rule and try to avoid the real picture .
This Tech et rule is drag racings biggest bullshit rule out there .
Your cars performance will past that et quickly and is being built as a drag race car so should be Tech on that from the start .( my personal belief)
The funny thing is Troys full chassis car has to have a inspection at chassis stage and then another for full tech before he can even go down the track .
This is why its so wrong , your car or mine isn't any different when you start looking at the modifications dune . ( its a full on drag car )
Your car is a supercharged sedan and comes under the super sedan class rules . ( doesn't matter thats it rear engine )
Class rules are part of it but quality of work and engineering of car is what its all about .
ANDRA can walk up to anyone and say get a tech mate based on its potential .
I can go on and on about what could happen at the track ( look at Michael Nash ) .
Yes , I may be stepping on toes with everyone but build your car to its fastest et potential when it comes to class items and safety once .
I know money is a big part of your direction and decisions .
You have my phone number if you want to chew my ear .
Peter P
👍
typethreeking ·
The andra rule book doesn't really cover a vw drag car, but if you built it as a blown sedan you would be fine, like my car it will start off steady and step it up, but I wanted to spend the money now so it's all set up for when it get quicker.
Stanley ·
matberry wrote:mmm yep, sorry Aaron, I'm with Pete and Westi, forced induction pure race car=scattershield and tech
Agree to a point and we all know what your cars are capable of.
20bkombi ·
Stanley wrote:
20bkombi wrote:Would like to clear this up as I would need to sell more stuff to order one.
Regards aaron
x2
Forget i asked the question!!!!
Never said i wasn't getting a tech insp, was allways going to, and will end up with a trans planket in the future.
Enough said!!!
On with the show.
seat mounts from angle
side and taxi bars
front bars and diagonals
and a wheel a friend gave me to try (was to small for a mini)😂
1916baja ·
Awesome work mate! I wish i had skills like that!
vassy66T1 ·
Awesome work Aaron!!!!
Love it 👍
20bkombi ·
1916baja wrote:Awesome work mate! I wish i had skills like that!
This wasn't so skillful, glowing red welding wire RIGHT THROUGH my thumb, fu.... it hurt.
but still finished the rest of the welding.😂😂
Stanley ·
Looks good mate. Are you going to run a bar under the dash and tie it into the steering column.
And what's planned for the dash
20bkombi ·
Yep dash stays and holding off on the bar that goes under it until steering is sorted. Still have to clean the steering box, then have thought to mount it on the lower beam with tie rods upside down, because the beam is at stock hight and body is lower.
essex ·
Good stuff Aaron.
Enjoying reading the updates.
1916baja ·
Ooh Damn!
20bkombi wrote:
1916baja wrote:Awesome work mate! I wish i had skills like that!
This wasn't so skillful, glowing red welding wire RIGHT THROUGH my thumb, fu.... it hurt.
but still finished the rest of the welding.😂😂
vassy66T1 ·
As clumsy as gloves are I would have no skin on my hands if I didn't use them.
What was the thinking for the diagonal going forward from the LHS front of the seat mount to the base/foot of the half lateral (just next to the drivers door pillar)?
I am almost up to the seat mount so am interested.
20bkombi ·
vassy66T1 wrote:As clumsy as gloves are I would have no skin on my hands if I didn't use them.
What was the thinking for the diagonal going forward from the LHS front of the seat mount to the base/foot of the half lateral (just next to the drivers door pillar)?
I am almost up to the seat mount so am interested.
Would you believe the wire went through a very small hole in the glove. New gloves to day :-)
I have in mind to cut the pan off and change the rear at a later date, so I'm building it similar to a tube chassis. That particular bar is for a diagonal hit in the front to save my legs, I don't have much faith in the pan. Just my thoughts.
whathaveidone ·
👍👍👍👍👍👍
vassy66T1 ·
Thanks Aaron.
Good thinking 👍
Sides ·
Lookin way cool Aaron, and damn that's some big rubber up back !!!
😎
20bkombi wrote:I have in mind to cut the pan off and change the rear at a later date, so I'm building it similar to a tube chassis. That particular bar is for a diagonal hit in the front to save my legs, I don't have much faith in the pan. Just my thoughts.
Are the regs much different/tougher for a tube car compared to a pan car ??? Or does it cost more to compliance them ???
Just wondering why bother carrying the extra weight of the pan around if the car doesn't really need it to hold together is all... though obviously makes for a pretty easy weight reduction program in future !!!
😀
Dasdubber ·
Nice work Aaron! Enjoying watching the progress.
Reminds me a little of a notch I saw in the US a few years ago...obviously more street focussed (for the US anyway):
Don't mean to photobomb your thread, but snapped a few of the tube cars in the US last month - no offence taken if you want me to remove the pics to keep it on topic. Thought it might be relevant with all the discussions on the cage:
Give me a yell if you need a hand with a paint job down the track 🙂
Al
Stanley ·
That seat will be low but obviously it will be ok
humpty ·
Lovely work Aaron.... Sure wish I had the tools and skills to build a cage like that.
20bkombi ·
Awesome Al, thanks for sharing the pics, you know how to capture the right picture. Always good to see other ideas, gives me more inspiration and motivation.
Thanks for the paint offer!!! I was only going to give it a quick coat to stop the surface rust😂
I hope these pics and thred bring more type 3's to race events in Australia.
1916baja ·
Australia was missing a real notch dragcar until now.... I like the look of them.
matberry ·
1916baja wrote:Australia was missing a real notch dragcar until now.... I like the look of them.
x2
good work Aaron
TheMiniMan ·
i been following & waiting to say something, so--> Farkin RRRRsome Aaron
& i don`t understand the "Freak" thing either, i feel it`s just normal sensible stuff , so much so that i`m actually wondering why i hadn`t seen anything similar in sth east Qld earlier
keep on hammering along Aaron, you da man bro :-)
whathaveidone ·
Just read through this again. Awesome work mate👍 Hope you get it done for warwick. If you use Becs motor will you bolt the extra turbo or leave it single???
1916baja ·
I think the 'freak' thing implies to his abilities and the fact that most people would take a hell of alot longer to build a car of this calibre. I've never seen anything like this come together so quickly!
TheMiniMan wrote:i been following & waiting to say something, so--> Farkin RRRRsome Aaron
& i don`t understand the "Freak" thing either, i feel it`s just normal sensible stuff , so much so that i`m actually wondering why i hadn`t seen anything similar in sth east Qld earlier
keep on hammering along Aaron, you da man bro :-)
lou0060 ·
great stuff Aaron. I've done a bit more on my car to iron out some "limp mode" issues so I am looking forward to running with you at Warwick. Keep it going, I'm sure you will get it done in time.
20bkombi ·
whathaveidone wrote:Just read through this again. Awesome work mate👍 Hope you get it done for warwick. If you use Becs motor will you bolt the extra turbo or leave it single???
If i use Becs engine it will include her single turbo (gt45) and tune of 306hp at the wheels, @ 11.8 psi.
20bkombi ·
Well i was sick over the last 2 weeks type 'A' flue and bronchitis, and only managed 1hr in that period.
But i got stuck into it yesterday adding the steering column, welded both side intrusion, taxi bar, and 4 more in the rear. Still lots more to come.
Also swapped some more old parts for this XTR 65mm wastgate.
rear bars
collapsible steering from subaru and vw
Machined a boss to weld in the cage for the knuckles to pivot.
modnrod ·
Nice stuff man.
Hope you're over the last flu effects soon, nasty one this year.
tar76 ·
That rolling floor pan and cage looks bad ass!!😎
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
Wicked dude!👍
20bkombi ·
Did some more today, mounted second turbo with deflectors going in to the exhaust housing ready for manifold.
Did some more on the cage, should be finished tomorrow
essex ·
Good stuff Aaron, really enjoying seeing your progress,
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Man looking good Aaron!! Lot of weight hanging out the back!! Wheelie bars definately on the cards??
Overkill eng ·
Very cool can't wait to see the finished car..
20bkombi ·
A little more tonight.
humpty ·
Damn I wish I could build a cage like that....
dangerous ·
Looks great dude!!
Stanley ·
Too good to put a body on it....nice work mate
vassy66T1 ·
Very cool (and safe) cage Aaron 👍
Super1302 ·
a great build. love the info.👍
20bkombi ·
Thanks guys!!!
I made a front mount for the auto box, mounted the shifter cable to the box and temporary positioned the shifter (need to mount the shifter on more of an angle) and made a rear mount for the engine, extending the rear stays to support the weight.
And started on the exhaust manifold. Made from steam pipe so no future cracks from the 1045' rotary exhaust temps.
Now I'll add the external wastgate pipes and start on the twin exhaust, in to one 4.5" , and 2.5" wast gate exhaust.
20bkombi ·
Finished cutting in the wast gate on the manifold
Started on the rear brakes
Just need a master cylinder and lines.
Made the throttle cable too.
I'll start the exhaust tomorrow.
westi ·
did you know of a material called aluminum.
it's light weight and easy to work with.hahah.
luckily aaron you have alittle thing called boost.
nice quick build up.r u aiming for warwick or something,you r a man on a mission.love it .
poor old kombi,isn't getting any love is it.
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
Awesome!! seems like I blinked and you have built a whole car.
20bkombi ·
westi wrote:nice quick build up.r u aiming for warwick or something,you r a man on a mission.love it .
poor old kombi,isn't getting any love is it.
Warwick would be good but time will tell!!!
kombi needs a break.
more this weekend.
finished the adapters (550 grames each),machined the rotors, made all the brake lines and subaru master, and welded all shock mounts.
because i only have type 3 front shocks
got some axles from DB 👍👍
seat bar which also stops the seat belts from sliding sideways
top bar
water into the tube chassis to save extra pipe work
Some rust repaires are getting started by a very good friend Barry Thompson
jum!!!
And started on the exhaust
still have wastgate to finish and turbo oil drain lines x2
13b type 3 ·
Someone has been a busy little bee while I've been away, good work 🙂
😁
humpty ·
Totally blown away Aaron...
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
oh man, love that dump pipe in front of the back wheel!
silver ·
Does the term "Man Possessed" come to any one else ...
20bkombi ·
Exhaust finished, wastgate pipe finished.
cut the water in and out let
started on the porsche flanges for the stub axles
modnrod ·
Gday Aaron.
Quick question about the HP rating of the cv's.
200HP for late Bug box?
300HP for Kombi?
400HP for Porsche 930?
Something like that?
20bkombi ·
modnrod wrote:Gday Aaron.
Quick question about the HP rating of the cv's.
200HP for late Bug box?
300HP for Kombi?
400HP for Porsche 930?
Something like that?
It all depends on the clutch, engine torque/power, tyre size and vehicle weight.
I've run beetle cv's with 300hp auto 1100+- kg, no worries .
Kombi cv's 430hp 1600kg some breaking, manual box
And 930 cv's 700+- hp 1600kg some breaking, manual box.
Stanley ·
So we'll see you at jambo then. :-)
20bkombi ·
I think I'm pushing it for Warwick Stanley, nice try, 😁
We are back from Valla tonight, so back in the shed. I turned the 4130 steel for the 930 CV flanges, just need to drill and tap the threads and weld them to the shafts.
This is the spacer that i made for the Audi turbo auto diff half shafts ( 930cv) to fit the Kombi auto diff.
And Barry lined up the front vent panel and finished welding it in.
I'll shorten the axles, then on to the engine porting and build. I think once I hear the engine start I'll pull my finger out and do some long hours cause I'll want to drive it. 😁😁
pete wood ·
mate. lovin this build. been lurking watching it for a while. keep it up 👍
20bkombi ·
Started on the engine today rotors are ready
Rotor housings are ported (exhaust)
The end plates are bridge ported, cleaned and ready for assembly.
vassy66T1 ·
They are the maddest engine
Nice work on the axles
Your constant effort is forcing me to start weeknights in the shed 😁👍
tar76 ·
what type of ports are you running? back in the day i ran bridge port and also had one with a extended j port, but they were non turbo. I suppose being turbo you wouldn't go to wild with the porting?
Captain ·
Nice work Aaron, cant believe how quick its coming together, its like your in your shed 24/7 but your still holding down a job. amazing dude.
20bkombi ·
tar76 wrote:what type of ports are you running? back in the day i ran bridge port and also had one with a extended j port, but they were non turbo. I suppose being turbo you wouldn't go to wild with the porting?
Large bridge port cutting in to the side of the rotor housing and massive exhaust port even took out the sleeves.
Made some mods to the stationary gears for better oil flow through the bearings.
Mazda race bearings
Made a grub screw to hold it in position
20bkombi ·
Captain wrote:Nice work Aaron, cant believe how quick its coming together, its like your in your shed 24/7 but your still holding down a job. amazing dude.
Welcome To the forum mark, first post in 3 years, I'm honored!!!
This should give you some inspiration to get that 20b PP going
Sweet!!! Bugger about the eye, hope all goes well.
20bkombi ·
Thanks Ben.
Funny to think ported, cleaned, built and started e engine with one eye.
I have fluid in my retina that needs to be removed this week by laser and injections.
$3200 which we don't have so the spending on the notch has stoped.
I'll get the kombi ready for Warwick then start back on the notch with things that don't cost.
2442supercharged ·
Thats no good hope it all goes well
whathaveidone ·
ouch!!!!!
1916baja ·
That sounds incredible Aaron!
essex ·
Good luck & best wishes with the eye.
nbturbo ·
Yes-good luck with your treatment Aaron and hope recovery goes well.
vassy66T1 ·
Sorry to hear your health has foiled your plans.
Look forward to seeing you at Warwick and in the kombi is just fine. 👍
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
My eyes are watering just thinking about your operation ouch!! Hope everything goes to plan mate!!
thatshimofficer ·
Holy Crap, that eye surgery sounds horrible. Good luck with it, hope it all works out for the best!
20bkombi ·
Thanks every one for the support for my eye, I just got back from the treatment, man it's sore!!!
But whatever it takes to get some sight back.
20bkombi ·
Yesterday I cut down the sway-a-way axles, recut the circlip groove and cleaned up some old porsche cv's.
JVLRacing ·
20bkombi wrote:Thanks Ben.
Funny to think ported, cleaned, built and started e engine with one eye.
I have fluid in my retina that needs to be removed this week by laser and injections.
$3200 which we don't have so the spending on the notch has stoped.
I'll get the kombi ready for Warwick then start back on the notch with things that don't cost.
get well mate...jvl
Birdman ·
That 930 axle and cv setup looks cool as.
I'm very interested in how you turned down the drive shafts and welded on the 110mm rings for the 930 cvs.
Could ya please post up some more pics of that process.
I have to do the same for my 944 shafts.
20bkombi ·
Thanks John, time will tell, going to go nuts with no shed time🥲
JVLRacing ·
20bkombi wrote:Thanks John, time will tell, going to go nuts with no shed time🥲
safe than sorry mate..dont want toget mental in that eye now mate...
Drives shafts very nice mate..might have a job for u 😎
20bkombi ·
Birdman wrote:That 930 axle and cv setup looks cool as.
I'm very interested in how you turned down the drive shafts and welded on the 110mm rings for the 930 cvs.
Could ya please post up some more pics of that process.
I have to do the same for my 944 shafts.
These are the only other pics of the shafts I have left. They are now in the type 3.
I didn't have a small chuck for the rotary table so this is what I came up with.
Dialing the flanges central to drill the holes perfect.
Drilling using a center drill first
Tapping
.
Stanley ·
Nice Aaron.....all the best with the eye man
20bkombi ·
Thanks every one for the support, vision got worse after the op, but is starting to get a little back now.
Thought I'd put the notch together ready to make the supports for the front and rear, and position the radiator, fuel tank and pumps. I want the body to lift off with out removing the tank and radiator, for easy maintenance.
Barry did some more rust repairs
Cut the tank, fits perfectly (20L) and rad is in position
Made a block to move the oil filter over 25mm
Starting to look the part
humpty ·
Damn that's phat! 😵💫
vassy66T1 ·
My favourite notch Aaron 👍
matberry ·
awesome work Aaron.
Have you plans for that tank off cut? You won't believe it, but I'm doing the same for an off-roader and his needs extending. We've already done the mounts but were needing to fab the extra section off tank. Your off-cut would werk beautifully 😉 .
20bkombi ·
It's all yours Matt, thought it would come in handy!!! 😀
Flintstones ·
Great work!
the rear pic looks the business 👍
Cheers
D
tar76 ·
Thats a mean looking notch Aaron 👍:
modnrod ·
Very, VERY cool man.
No "money-on-the-bonnet" from the other lane with this ride I rekn! 🤪
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
Nice
20bkombi ·
Made some injector bosses to change from side feed to top feed injectors.
STOCK ·
Fu#% me Aaron that looks awesome
But you'll need to put an Eski in the back like the Kombi
So we have somewhere to put the our cans
humpty ·
A favourtite car from way back in the day.... Thought you might like it!!!!
Pizzo Bros beautiful racer from 1992 and 9.4 s car with 466 hp.
Dasdubber ·
The notch is looking very cool Aaron - nice work indeed. Glad to see you are keeping Baz busy - he doesn't get enough rust at work or on his panel van, luckily he loves it hey! 🙂
Al
20bkombi ·
Thanks for the pics humpty, I came across this car a while a go, respectable times too.
Thanks Al, I'm pretty happy with it so far too.
Baz has been a big help, he takes a lot of pride in his panel fab, and loves the rust that I left for him.
I'll return the favour when he starts his wifes type 4, turbo, efi, early notch.
I've been getting the Kombi ready for Warwick, now it's dynoed and ready to go.
I have a couple of vw autos to build and 3 rotariy engines to build after Warwick, then it's back on to the notch to get it to the track ASAP.
humpty ·
❓
20bkombi ·
Unfortunately I still have the three rotaries to build to help pay for my eye so will be about 4 weeks until the type three gets back in the shed.
I also want to get the bus back to the track for that 10 second pass ASAP.
FROSTY ·
found another notch pic,
polak ·
20bkombi wrote:
Stanley wrote:In the nicest possible way you're a freak Aaron
🥲🥲🥲
I dont understand why people keep saying this 😂
With the turbos done, I'll start porting the engine, and remove some of the 3er panels, interior, engine & box.
I agree with Stanley, you are a freak hahaha, always coming up with something fun and "outside the square"... love the custom turbo work keep the updates flowing :P
Smiley ·
polak wrote:always coming up with something fun and "outside the square"...
Of course it's outside the square. It's a notchback not a squareback! 😂😂😂😂
Smiley 🙂
humpty ·
Just thought I'd throw a little more inspiration out there Aaron...
😘
Chad Daileys' project...
And Kris Lauffers' new purchase...
TOPCAT69 ·
Any updates on this build Aaron ? cheers Terry 😁
20bkombi ·
The only update is that Ive pushed it back into the work shop but still haven't touched it.
I now have plans to cut the pan out and then complete every thing to have some track time.
I have another design for the rear suspension using air bags.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
20bkombi wrote:The only update is that Ive pushed it back into the work shop but still haven't touched it.
I now have plans to cut the pan out and then complete every thing to have some track time.
I have another design for the rear suspension using air bags.
Awesome dude!! Finding time ain't easy that's for sure!!
20bkombi ·
This is how it sat for 9 months collecting wasp nests spiders and rust.
Time to get started again
Cut the pan out, it weighs 56kg, the new plasma cutter came in very handy!!
The white pipe is where I'm thinking of making new bars, 14.3 kg, so that's 41.7kg saving
Cut away the fire wall and the inner sills.
Also cut out the parcel tray and a bit more of the rear
Stanley ·
Awesome Aaron...look forward to seeing the progress.
20bkombi ·
I had to work around the two white pipes which run from front to rear then 'v' together as they are actually the coolant pipes for the engine.
20bkombi ·
Thanks Stanley!!
1916baja ·
I can't believe its been 9 months!
Camo ·
Wow, just read from start to finish. How did I ever miss this, top stuff 👍
You are definitely a talented man with all your knowledge and skills, I take me hat off to you 👍
I would find it hard to cut up your hard work after all the time it takes, but I guess it is for the better.
Keep up the great work and the photos as this is the best way some of us dummies to learn stuff.
Cheers, Kev
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Westi will be happy Aaron!!! Cut cut cut lol
20bkombi ·
This is how to store a body to take less space, I can now lift it on my own.
Cutting through 42mm pipe to allow the 33mm pipe to run through the front for the radiator
Now for some diagonals
hypo-vw ·
Now thats friggin awesome Aaron !! Too good mate ......
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Looks great mate!! Light too!! Westi would be proud lol
matberry ·
Great work Aaron. Nice tube notching. Tell us tho, what it this 'radiator' thing of which you speak..... lol
20bkombi ·
matberry wrote:Great work Aaron. Nice tube notching. Tell us tho, what it this 'radiator' thing of which you speak..... lol
Like a cozy climate control for your engine. Lol
I'm really enjoying this part of the build, and now to try out my new AC/DC tig 🙂
20bkombi ·
Not the priettiest being a biginner, but way stronger than mig welding, there's always time to improve.
Just so time consuming!!!
humpty ·
Great work as always Aaron.
Stanley ·
Nice Aaron...I find getting into a comfy position the key which can be a problem with TIG.
20bkombi ·
Stanley wrote:Nice Aaron...I find getting into a comfy position the key which can be a problem with TIG.
That's so true, I found my self using my left hand for neally half the welds because of this.
FROSTY ·
I didn't realise it has TWO turbo's.... I'm stoked to see you back on the notch, can't wait for more photos.
essex ·
Really enjoying your thread & build pics Aaron, cheers Barry
nbturbo ·
Another one.I can't believe how many really talented people hang around this site.Just scroll down the Drag Racing thread and check out all the cars being built-awesome.Only place you need to be for inspiration.Well done Aaron.
lou0060 ·
good to see you're back on the notch Aaron. Can always cut out a sunroof to get that bit extra weight saving!!
I think I've seen cars left to rot in fields with more metal than yours.....😂😂😂
JVLRacing ·
those welds mate are beautiful to the eye mate
jvl
omszee ·
great work...very cool
20bkombi ·
Not much happening, though I thought i'd modify the stock type 3 rims for the front last week.
john1960 ·
This is a understatement but you are one clever guy.I was lucky to have you install my radiator some 4 years ago.My son cody still talks about watching your black kombi at warwick.
typethreeking ·
Speed holes😂
20bkombi ·
Thanks john, wow how time flies!!
Speed holes!!! Haha... Nar just don't like the look of stock 4 stud rims
And Bec's first words were ''are you going to get them balanced??".
1916baja ·
What a top idea!
1916baja ·
Grind those hub cap bumps off and get them chromed and you've got a sweet set of custom steel mags!😂
20bkombi ·
Got some time to work on the notch tonight
Front guards are mounted, have to mount the bonnet radiator and fuel tank.
Then on to the rear guards.
Who would know there's nothing under the bonnet. I could wack some plates on it, tint the whindows to hide the cage and go for a spin.😂😂
reub ·
Love your work dude...
matberry ·
reub wrote:Love your work dude...
yep, me too. good job Aaron
1916baja ·
I love the way you work, I would take me a week to knock that up! Bit of time at night is all you need!😂
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Might need a muffler or 2 to drive it on the street lol
humpty ·
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Might need a muffler or 2 to drive it on the street lol
Who needs mufflers?.... That's what the turbos are for!
Stanley ·
humpty wrote:
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Might need a muffler or 2 to drive it on the street lol
Who needs mufflers?.... That's what the turbos are for!
Hell yeh....drove mine on the street with no muffler
20bkombi ·
Inbetween full time courier driving and rebuilding vw automatic transmissions I found a bit more time for the notch.
Fuel tank mount and a strap to hold it down
Radiator mount, no bolts needed at all
Bonnet bracket. It's funny how much factory stuff you cut off then have to totally redesign it all again.
Both rear guards and rear apron are mounted with a total of 4 dzuse clips and 2 quick bolts (push bike quick release hub cam bolts).
This makes it very quick and easy to work on by myself.
This frame part is bolted to a stock guard and slips on to the body.
Plenty of access when you need it.
.
TICK ·
MAD
modnrod ·
I can't find any of the sharp edges you always catch yourself on when checking and tuning between rounds.
What the hell's going on? 🙅
Bloody lovely! 👍
humpty ·
modnrod wrote:I can't find any of the sharp edges you always catch yourself on when checking and tuning between rounds.
What the hell's going on? 🙅
Bloody lovely! 👍
Hahahhaha.... Especially on a type 3!
20bkombi ·
Any one whos worked on a type 3 knows how flimsy the rear guards are, especially if you cut all the inner panels out. That was a big hurdle trying to get it out of my head and make it work.
So the next thing that's been in my mind is the shifter and duel way hand brake, it might end up like this.
Also cleaned up the front rotors, I'll cross drill them at a later date.
I also had to find an other front 4 1/2 stock front rim. Not as easy as it sounds.
Took 4 tyres off rims and i put them in the lathe and they were all bent and buckled. Lucky Troy had a spare which was straight, so I drilled the holes bigger and ready for the M/T front runners next week.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE ·
Work of art as usual mate!!
FROSTY ·
Oh mate that is awesome !!!!!
20bkombi ·
Thanks frosty, i didn't want a console but I had to hide the ugly shifter and hand brake, so this will do.
It will also hide the shifter cable, fuel line, brake lines, wiring and maybe accelerator cable.
Stanley ·
Lookin' good Aaron
matberry ·
Great work mate. looking simple usually takes the most work
20bkombi ·
looking simple usually takes the most work
Thanks Matt, that is so true!!
hypo-vw ·
that looks so good Aaron .... well done mate !! what an impressive build 👍👍
typethreeking ·
Glad that wheel worked out for you mate👍
lou0060 ·
come on Aaron, 3 mths to Warwick, time to get back on it.....
20bkombi ·
Still got another two weeks worth of building Vw automatics then back on the 3er.
Got the front tyres on the rims, with new wheel bearings tie rod ends and ball joints.
Also found a steering wheel on eBay for $45 and a quick release for $26 then made an adapter.
1916baja ·
👍 are you using that poly seat or did you get a kirkey?
20bkombi ·
I think the poly seat will stay til after Warwick, then I might make my own. Do you want it?
1916baja ·
I was chasing Stanley for it the other day, he said you had it but he thought you had a kirkey. When your gonna get rid of it I might grab it off ya??? Whenever you're done with it.
humpty ·
Really nice work Aaron.... Those rims have come up a treat.
If the Gascoyne Dash doesn't happen this year, ill be heading to Warwick again I reckon... It's shaping up to be a massive one!
vassy66T1 ·
Looking WAY cool Aaron!!
I like your vision
20bkombi ·
5 autos in 7 weeks... that will help with the notch parts 😂😂
Console done
Below as the 1 1/4" (31.75mm) Aluminum fuel line runs through the console
Bracket for the booster
Pedals master and brake lins all done
Alternator bracket coppied, mines on the left.
First job for my 1220 pan brake folder is a steering shaft mount
Welded some caliper brackets on the front spindles with the Tig
Made a removable baffle in the fuel tank
Made a breather, but might need to modify it a bit more
And welded it. Just need some "Red Kote" to line it for when I go methanol
OZ Towdster ·
With the volume of fuel going out the 1 1/4 line is the 1/4 breather big enough ???
OZ Towdster ·
And why didn't you make a proper caliper bracket and bolt it to the stub axles existing holes
20bkombi ·
The breather is 10mm ID and the main line is only that size so the 360 Lph mec pump doesn't surge, the pump is 2.5 m from the tank and doesn't self prime. The return will join back in just befor the pump so the breather should be fine.
I would have to cut the original caliper mountings totally off as it was not going to work with the offset of these rotors, yeah a bolt on bracket is what I've always done and would have been better if it would work. Thought I would leave the stock point there I case i change to something better later.
Thanks for the interest Andrew
matberry ·
I hear ya Aaron, but holy crap Batman, inch and a quarter ❗❗❗❗
We're all interested mate, nice build, keep it up 🙂
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
Nice, looks the goods...
empi ·
Wholy hell i wann asee this thing move... and how far u get with that fuel tank with a rotary on the receiveing end!!
Speaking as a type 3 enthusiast and an RX8 owner!!
Sides ·
empi wrote:Wholy hell i wann asee this thing move... and how far u get with that fuel tank with a rotary on the receiveing end!!
Heh heh... with a 1 1/4" fuel line... I'd guess a smidge over half a mile. That's all it needs to do the job and get back home again tho.
😉
Really diggin the build Aaron - looks great !!!
👍
20bkombi ·
Whoops Bec left me at home alone!!!
Looks like I'll be borrowing her wagon this Warwick...the notch won't make it this year so I pulled the engine and tranny from mine and shoved it in her type 3. Using her turbo set up with new 13b full race bridge port motor which will rev to 10,000 I thought I'd modify the converter from 4000rpm stall speed to about 4500, may be more as it should make more boost at the same time.
The tune will be limited to the single fuel pump, so only about 400-420rwhp.
But should be fun on the street and track!!!
It will be on the road tomorrow.....brrrap brrrap. Then back on to the notch or my Lexus v8 turbo conversion in my land cruiser.
humpty ·
As always.... Your a mad man..... Don't forget the incarnation cameras Aaron.
nbturbo ·
Top stuff Aaron. That massive fuel line will give you another couple of litres of fuel- good surge tank. Where are all the rebuilt autos going- Drag Cars i hope?
JVLRacing ·
JVL likes nice stuff...😎
Dasdubber ·
Nice one Aaron, you are a machine! I'm guessing Bec's wagen will get a little further twisted in the bum come Warwick then? 🙂 Will be great to see it run again with your power plant (albeit detuned a little!)
Al
lou0060 ·
ah nice, another "other engine - vw body" entry, although not sure I am looking forward to running against the square with the notch engine......
urban_myth ·
hi Aaron, can you supply,or do you make the pump shafts for the 003 kombi box out of better quality steel.I havent broken one yet but would like to change it before i do.I have a v6 supercharged motor driving through this box.
20bkombi ·
Hi Jason, you won't need the pump shaft to be any stronger than stock. I've been running 300+ rwhp for over 5 years and now over 400rwhp @ 9000 rpm with 195psi of base pressure and no sign of ware. There's no shock load on this shaft as the pump has a good size release ball to flow the excess fluid. Hope this makes sense.
20bkombi ·
I stole the mechanical fuel pump a regulator from the bus and will also fit a bosh 910 efi pump feeding directly to the reg to prime the system for ease of starting.
CDI coils fitted but still in two minds to buy M&W ( pro drag 14, 250mj) or MSD (DIS-2 ho)
Not yet fitted but in place, 4 water to air intercoolers rated to 1000hp+ ea.
And a custome Honda civic radiator sitting in place
Still have some autos and rotaries to build before I can start back on it but I'm keen.
vassy66T1 ·
WOw Aaron!!!
matberry ·
Double wow. Thanks for the update 👍👍
humpty ·
Madness.... Shear madness.
westi ·
to heavy
20bkombi ·
westi wrote:to heavy
I was waiting for you to say that, haha!!
May I say yours is to light ???
I know I have the weight demons against me but I think this will be the key for keeping the air temps and auto oil temps down so I can race all day..
Also keeps the tune in only a few air temp maps.
matberry ·
😂
reub ·
Weight demons maybe, but it's not aircooled...
Look at the 10.5 class, minimum weight of 940kg?? and running 7s??
sauron ·
Aaron, will you be runing a plenum box or a header type pipe between the two turbos and the four intercoolers? Michael
20bkombi ·
reub wrote:Weight demons maybe, but it's not aircooled...
Look at the 10.5 class, minimum weight of 940kg?? and running 7s??
Yes I have seen this class, ill be a shoe in, but the quickest I want to go is 9 to 8.5s.
20bkombi ·
Hi Michael, each turbo will feed into there own cooler on the left, 3" pipe, then the two coolers will be joind together underneath with a 90' 4" out let feeding the other two coolers together via another 90' 4" underneath through the two as one, exiting on top another 90' 4" pipe which then goes to the throttle body.
So just like having two inline coolers with a twin feed.
I looked at just two coolers with the same area as these four but It will be more efficient with more devided water ways running more inlets and outlets, therefor not heating up the water as much as if it had to return back into the other half of the cooler already warm which would not help the intake air.
In other words the water goes through the coolers faster and gets back to the wet ice box to return to 0' Celsius (aprox 35L box) up front.
I'm only running E85 and the goal is to keep the air as cool as I can and knowing that becs type 3 intake temps were reaching 98'C and totally melting 10kgs of ice in 10.92 sec, with 1/3 of the size cooler than the notch and more importantly only 18psi. And I'm planing to double this an be consistent.
Sorry if you cant follow this I just can't explain stuff well, (lefty-loosely, righty-tighty) 😂😂
Frallan ·
Your information sharing and my learning because of that, is really good.
Thanks!
10kg of ice on one run, that is a lot of ice. I need to buy me an ice machine.
Summer in Sweden is cool and ice is not so easy available.
sauron ·
I think I understood that, but gee it made my brain hurt😂
20bkombi ·
Frallan wrote:Your information sharing and my learning because of that, is really good.
Thanks!
10kg of ice on one run, that is a lot of ice. I need to buy me an ice machine.
Summer in Sweden is cool and ice is not so easy available.
It's busy when I go to the dyno, as well as tuning using my logger, I fill and empty the cooler, going through 100kg of ice in some times only 120mins with around 30 power runs. So that's a run every 4 mins and and an ice change every 12.
Yes an ice machine and deep freezer would be nice!!!!
vassy66T1 ·
You're explaining it just fine Aaron
Even I understand it !!
20bkombi ·
Haha... Cool, but if some of you can't understand my gibberish you'll have to wait for more progress pictures😂😂
20bkombi ·
This parts washer should help me get through the vw autos and rotaries I'm building.
Needs a little clean it self😂
Started another one of my manual valve bodies, this one only has two moving valves, main pressure and the M/V.
This will shift even quicker than the earlier ones I've made.
Mine looks a little more simple then the standard one on the right.
motha ·
wow!
Thats awesome!!!
I don't have anywhere near the inclination to figure this out...
I brought a transaxle engineering trans kit with there upgraded 300m input shaft, reverse pattern valve body, chromoly oil pump drive & drum, band & clutch setups a few years ago now, but haven't got around to sorting it out.
Also sourced a 4000 stall from a mob called Speed Kills in the states which I can't find to exist anymore. Again, haven't got around to getting it all together.
Had to modify a Seat gear reduction starter motor to fit behind the watercooled 1.8T bubble block, as the stock Mk1 starter body was too big to fit in the stock location on the auto, as the later block is different to the stock Mk1 engine block.
But hopefully sometime later this year I'll get around to it & hopefully find someone to sort out adjusting the stall speed if required. No transbrake though.
Have you had any experience with the Transaxle Engineering valve body's? If so, how much difference will your valve bodies increase shifting & clamping pressures etc?
20bkombi ·
I would love to see how your mk1 goes with an auto and all the parts you have for it.
I can help with adjusting stall speeds in your converter. I've modified converters from stock, right through to 1400hp+ mopar v8 turbo set ups.
The only item I've used from Transaxle Engineering is there turbine shaft.
My v/b is about as simple as it gets and I think there's would be very similar in shift speeds. As for the clamping pressure that depends on the line pressure spring and tension.
Hope you get around to it soon because I think the vw auto is so under rated.
I hope that my r&d will get more auto to the track and running quick consistent times with less maintenance.
urban_myth ·
hi aaron.can you do this manual conversion to the 003 trans as well?if possible ,at what cost? thanks
motha ·
20bkombi wrote:I would love to see how your mk1 goes with an auto and all the parts you have for it.
I can help with adjusting stall speeds in your converter. I've modified converters from stock, right through to 1400hp+ mopar v8 turbo set ups.
The only item I've used from Transaxle Engineering is there turbine shaft.
My v/b is about as simple as it gets and I think there's would be very similar in shift speeds. As for the clamping pressure that depends on the line pressure spring and tension.
Hope you get around to it soon because I think the vw auto is so under rated.
I hope that my r&d will get more auto to the track and running quick consistent times with less maintenance.
Thanks buddy.
Will get around to it one day.
I chose to use the auto years ago, as I'd had very good experiences with my own early model ute with a full manual & high stall setup & thought "what if I could build a mk1 auto?" to reduce drivetrain breakages & driveability without having to use a mad, heavy drag type clutch or have to buy a very expensive manual dog gear setup. Which no doubt, I'd break! So the risk of setting it up with a auto was a much more viable option & also a much cheaper one if it all went wrong too!
Not long after I'd seen a team in Puerto Rico racing a mk1 with an auto & this was a semi-daily driver, driven to the track, fit some slicks, race, swap them back & then drive home deal & ran in the high 9's! FWD & all!
& they also rarely had any driveshaft failures, even using stock driveshafts & CV joints! As there less shock loading on the drivetrain.
Seeing this sold me on the idea & I went on the hunt to find someone or a place who could help with the internals.
The best place to start was somewhere in America who do dune buggy setups.
As no one will abuse a VW transmission harder than the sand guys & came across Transaxle Engineering, who straight away fit the bill, as Jeff straight away said they normally use LS engines making around 500hp mated to the VW auto & rarely have any issues with them, as long as the oil is regular maintained.
I was sold on that idea, as I'd never make that much power & especially torque or even have the jumping/drivetrain shock loading with my setup. So I ordered their top of the line complete setup.
So after all this, I agree with you 100% on the fact that early 010 autos are overlooked! Some people are just stuck in their ways to have a manual.
But I bet my bottom dollar that the majority of them have never been in a "built" auto with a properly sized high stall, let along owned one. These are probably also the same people who can't get their heads around how you can daily drive a car with a high stall.
My utes is 4500rpm & is no more of a drama than a stock one. Just try & avoid towing heavy cars, as its a TH400, 4500 stall with a gearvendors overdrive unit. So no lock-up clutch convertor like a stock 4L65E setup.
I have a local trans place (who also build some tough as nails autos, incl. my own in my daily 10sec ute) with a contact at Dominator convertors to adjust the high stall if need be, but will definitely keep you in mind if its too much trouble for them!
Can't wait to see the notch hit the track!
20bkombi ·
The latest valve body I made is finished, with trans brake and a extra 'Neutral' gear after 3rd.
humpty ·
That's amazing stuff Aaron.... So awesome to see this sort of stuff being devised.... If my built Bus box gives me the heebees I know where I'll be going next!
Alex VW Heritage ·
Always been a big fan of your bus, the notch is looking even more mental, great work!
20bkombi ·
BRAIN STORMING VW AUTOS MAKES ME CRAZY!!!!!
Haha!! But really I've made these hard lines so I can data log all the pressures that my new valve body puts out to make sure theres no overlap on gear change to save clutches and bands. This is my R&D auto and will test all future v/b's I make.
This is a little off topic but all this will help the drag car in the future.
vassy66T1 ·
Awesome👍👍
matberry ·
Very clever Aaron, good work mate
20bkombi ·
Thanks guys!!
The next thing that crossed my mind was to make a full electronic solenoid valve body, but I think a multi clutch lockup converter will be first.
matberry ·
Yep, guess so....😀
DavoBuggy 1641 ·
That is awesome dude.
20bkombi ·
Had 2 hrs in the shed today between feeding our new born (two weeks today) Lucy Belle Roberts.
Got some data from my v/b before installing it... And yes that is a drill to drive the pump shaft.
Then bolted it in for a test drive.
humpty ·
It's mad how your mind works.... How's Bec feeling Aaron?
Frallan ·
Love it!..... and I know you know.
Now I have to look in to my Innovate logger and see how you managed 5 pressure channels.
20bkombi ·
humpty wrote:It's mad how your mind works.... How's Bec feeling Aaron?
Thanks Humpty!!
Bec and Lucy are going great, 3 weeks and 2 day now.
20bkombi ·
Frallan wrote:Love it!..... and I know you know.
Now I have to look in to my Innovate logger and see how you managed 5 pressure channels.
Haha!!.... I know ;-)
We'll have to workout soon if I can modify your valve body adding a trans brake and extra neutral or I make a new one. I'll email you tomorrow.
With the logging, on this one I used one of my DL-32 innovate units configuring all 5 channels to = ( 0-5v ) and using 0-400 psi sensors. I think they are around $40au ea with wire connectors.
What innovate are you using??
Frallan ·
I have a LMA 2 a LMA3 and a TC4 for my EGT.
The DL32 is probbaly more flexible. Cool in any case.
No hurry yet for the trans brake. I will test it in September and then during our Swedish winter, I can update.
Thanks!
20bkombi ·
Machined some steels to fit more clutches in the auto.
I've moved the steel from where I machined it to get a better pic.
Frallan ·
You are building on your hero status.....
20bkombi ·
Frallan wrote:You are building on your hero status.....
😂😂😂
You're so funny!!!
Today I had great success with the manual valve body I made. Logged all the shifts and modified the v/b to shift absolutely perfect. This one is going in Dean Penrose turbo injected beetle with mini spool, 930 flanges and one of my high rpm stall converters.
This will be one to watch out for on the street or the track!!!
Frallan ·
Good luck for you and Dean! I will follow the progress, as usual with interest, far away but still so close.
20bkombi ·
Had time between auto rebuilds so got a little done on the notch, cut 6 of the intercooler end tanks off and welded them in pairs, made new end tanks and tiged all the pipes.
315 amp tig, still getting use to aluminium welding
Turned up two V bands one for each turbo with o'rings
And a new seat
Performance Upholstery ·
Holy moly!
Stanley ·
Wow...been busy Aaron...glad you upgraded the seat
Performance Upholstery ·
Speaking of the seat.... Wanna get rid of the old one Aaron? Do you know if they are ok for a 10.99 tech??
Vw nutter ·
Wow that is a very impressive setup! nice work!
what sort of hp will this thing be putting out?
Performance Upholstery ·
Heaps! Lol!
nbturbo ·
Well Aaron-it looks like you have nailed another professional Trade.Thats some very neat ally welding for a newcomer.I had better get some scrap ally and do some practice runs to try and keep up.The work on the coolers is outstanding.
20bkombi ·
Thanks Greg, there's still lots of room for improvement.
I made the seat base, welded under the whole chassis and started on the ally sheeting. I'll use the bead roller on the panels at a later stage.
Very messy work shop, but got a bit done the last couple of days
Made 100 of these and have already welded 86 on using a quick jig to line them up
Hopefully I get time go finish the rear fire wall the week after next.
humpty ·
You have a MACHO bender hey?😉
20bkombi ·
It an't so mucho, I had to reweld the eccentric clamps so now it bends 3mm instead of 1.6mm
20bkombi ·
All the aluminium work is done
I made some seat belt covers to protect them from the engine bay.
And fixed down the battery
Now to finish fitting all the guards and start to think about a rear wing and rear opening window.
Stanley ·
Starting to really take shape Aaron...looking great
mactaylor ·
Hi Aaron Where did you get your thin wall ally pipe and bends?
20bkombi ·
The cooler doughnut pipes are 2mm thick from a local fab shop. They always have them in stock.
FROSTY ·
Very nice!! can't wait to see this in the flesh.
morgan ·
looking good
Flintstones ·
Cool build, it certainly is coming along.
Was looking at this pic and was wondering if there is ample clearance between the body and when the tyre grows in height when you're on the load pedal?
20bkombi wrote:
20bkombi ·
FROSTY wrote:Very nice!! can't wait to see this in the flesh.
Thanks guys!!
Don't be fooled Frosty, photos always make it look way better than it really is.
I really would like to build a proper chassis car in the future but for now this will do.
20bkombi ·
Flintstones wrote:Cool build, it certainly is coming along.
Was looking at this pic and was wondering if there is ample clearance between the body and when the tyre grows in height when you're on the load pedal?
20bkombi wrote:
It's just the angle of the picture, theres 110mm with all guards on and me in it.
All the guards and bonnet have been fitted and now removed. Also did a quick wheel alinement, and sorted fuel and water lines.
My new Microtech, 4x Msd coils, Msd leads and M&W CDI will be coming up Jambo weekend. I have some customers autos to get out this weekend to fill in the time.
20bkombi ·
Got up early to bleed the brakes... All done
Sorry no pictures today
20bkombi ·
Nearly finished the fuel system. Lots of $ in speed flow.
Machined down the -20 thread on the fuel filter and welded the 1 1/4 tube to it to save fittings.
Next is to weld another fitting in line for a bosh prime pump, then put a rollover valve on the fuel tank then put the tank liner in to keep it from rusting.
lou0060 ·
nice work Aaron, I'm just so pleased that this thing will run in VW Shootout rather than in other motor class...😀😀
20bkombi ·
lou0060 wrote:nice work Aaron, I'm just so pleased that this thing will run in VW Shootout rather than in other motor class...😀😀
I might not make the top shoot out, I only have a 10psi wast gate spring and an electronic boost controller is the very last thing I'll be installing if there's time.
It will be fun just to have a run at any speed
Wheel alinement tomorrow. I have just a few more things to wire then it's on to building a transmission, diff and modify one of my old converters.
joesbuell ·
Awesome build!
lou0060 ·
2 weeks to go Aaron, how are you progressing? Guessing it is almost finished as you haven't been spend valuable time on here.....
20bkombi ·
lou0060 wrote:2 weeks to go Aaron, how are you progressing? Guessing it is almost finished as you haven't been spend valuable time on here.....
Yes massive hours being spent in the shed lately, still so much to do .
I'll get some pics up of all the small things that take so much time.
These are all done now. Fuel lines, radiator and water lines, oil cooler and lines, most engine/cdi wiring, throttle cable, intercooler water lines in the rear ( esky not finished), ice cooler for the auto as well.
I built a basic trans for now just to get the car to the dyno on Tuesday and will build a good one after Warwick.
Tested the converter today, still not loose enough.
A very quick tune (4mins) and it came to 2 psi at 4850 rpm on the foot brake,( needs more rpm to make more boost, it might come up with a bit more tuning. This will also do for dyno runs and Warwick.
It will be slow of the line as I expected using these two GT 40 turbos ( 2x.96 T4 single entry exhaust housings) they come of 2x 9L trucks now on my 1.3L. The engine should see 10psi at around 5700-5900 rpm on paper but the massive bridge port I've done might alter that a bit.
pete wood ·
Love to see an update on this. 🙂
pete wood ·
Came across this on youtube. Does anyone know if he's got any further?
