Aussieveedubbers · Tech Talk

Rust preventative?

https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/98007/rust-preventative

bluebaja ·

Hi
Interested in knowing what people have used as a rust preventative inside the Beetle central chassis tunnel.
I have just done a rust repair on the front "napolean hat' area and looking up inside the tunnel there is surface rust I wish to stop from progressing.
I am thinking of drilling a few access holes (to be rubber bunged) to allow me to spray/pour in a rust preventative in critical areas.
The thing is this is going to be a baja so water will be getting in at some stage. I have used fisholene before but I am conserned if water gets in it will get "under" it.
Any ideas??
Thanks

toey1984 ·

Consider using PENETROL.
It penetrates rust spots and also is a conditioner.
Drys hard and glossy (apparently)

http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php

psimitar ·

You can buy Waxoyl from RS Components. Originally made in Swizterland or Sweden, something like that. Anyway, it is a wax impregnated with a rust conditioner and inhibitor. It remains in a soft waxy substrate and can self heal from small scratches. There are others like Bilt Hamber but the guy who sells it is ripping everyone off.

There's Tens----something or other. Can't remember it's name properly.

Otherwise I have looked online quite exhaustively and not found all that much else 🙁

68AutoBug ·

bluebaja wrote:Hi
Interested in knowing what people have used as a rust preventative inside the Beetle central chassis tunnel.
I have just done a rust repair on the front "napolean hat' area and looking up inside the tunnel there is surface rust I wish to stop from progressing.
I am thinking of drilling a few access holes (to be rubber bunged) to allow me to spray/pour in a rust preventative in critical areas.
The thing is this is going to be a baja so water will be getting in at some stage. I have used fisholene before but I am conserned if water gets in it will get "under" it.
Any ideas??
Thanks
Hi
I have been using fish oil since the late 60s to stop rust that is already there plus seals the surface so no new rust can start
it eventually dries [in the winter] much quicker in summer..
you can pour it in the doors and catch any excess and reuse...
it dries clear and doesn't smell like it used to... lol
its now deodorised.. killrust is the best brand.. I always brush or spray it with at least two coats - let dry in between..
it will spread over rusted surfaces [like oil flows] and stop any air getting to the old rust... so it just stops it...
don't use on wet metal must be dry..

Lee probably the cheapest on the market too...

Bob down ·

does fish oil have any negative affects on paintwork that is in good nick?

bajachris88 ·

Deodorised fish oil still smells fishy, & deodorised lanolin oil still smells like sheep 😂 but tis what i have used.

psimitar ·

neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is still waxy.

Pays for what you gets 😉

Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too 🙂

Aussie ·

psimitar wrote:neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is still waxy.

Pays for what you gets 😉

Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too 🙂
How much is the Waxoyl? Went to RS website but no price shown??

psimitar ·

Aussie wrote:
psimitar wrote:neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is still waxy.

Pays for what you gets 😉

Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too 🙂
How much is the Waxoyl? Went to RS website but no price shown??
Used to be $80 for a 5l can. You have to fone for the pump action spary kit. $23 for a 400ml aerosol 🙂

AndrewB ·

dont go near killrust with any paints where thinners is involved. dont ask.... 🙅

psimitar ·

AndrewB wrote:dont go near killrust with any paints where thinners is involved. dont ask.... 🙅
So you need to use a isolator before priming? Not surprised as it didn't like having zinc primer sprayed on it. creased and bubbled nicely 😉

vlad01 ·

Eastwood cavity wax and similar brands are great. Kill rust by wattle, POR15 epoxy, master series 2 pak epoxy, KBS.

vlad01 ·

psimitar wrote:neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is still waxy.

Pays for what you gets 😉

Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too 🙂

not if its preped properly. It likes bare acid etched metal such as using POR15 metal ready before hand.

we have stuff at home thats hasn't rusted yet after 30 years plus in the weather with kill rust. We have a tin water tank that was on wood sleeper only an " above the ground and for the last 15 years was sunk in the dirt, drained the water last year ans tipped the tank over to find kill rust my dad painted on bottom looking like new with less than a few match head sized flakes coming off in 1 or 2 small areas 🤪


I found kill rust actually works way better without primer, must be bare chemically etched metal (phosphoric acid) Sticks like dog crap.

though I do agree that por15 and kbs work better but when kill rust is done right the kill rust is not that far behind.

vlad01 ·

Bob down wrote:does fish oil have any negative affects on paintwork that is in good nick?

not really. only negative effect is it doesn't last long enough in normal conditions. I find the fishoil breaks down in a few years and virtually disappears and rust comes back better than ever 😉

psimitar ·

vlad01 wrote:
psimitar wrote:neither fish oil or lanolin will neutralise the rust already present tho. It'll stop new rust forming but needs re-applying once dried out.
Waxoyl and Tectyl don't dry out and I've seen cars that were waxoyled from new in the UK that 40yrs later are completely rust free and the wax is still waxy.

Pays for what you gets 😉

Kill rust is OK on parts that don't see the elements but under car etc it won't last very well. KBS is the Oz version of POR15 and just as good yet cheaper. If correctly applied it's tough as old boots too 🙂

not if its preped properly. It likes bare acid etched metal such as using POR15 metal ready before hand.

we have stuff at home thats hasn't rusted yet after 30 years plus in the weather with kill rust. We have a tin water tank that was on wood sleeper only an " above the ground and for the last 15 years was sunk in the dirt, drained the water last year ans tipped the tank over to find kill rust my dad painted on bottom looking like new with less than a few match head sized flakes coming off in 1 or 2 small areas 🤪


I found kill rust actually works way better without primer, must be bare chemically etched metal (phosphoric acid) Sticks like dog crap.

though I do agree that por15 and kbs work better but when kill rust is done right the kill rust is not that far behind.
Killrust is OK, as I said, but even sanding the metal with 120 wet n dry I've found it don't adhere all that well. etching the metal makes anything stick well 🙂

Still I'm happy to use the stuff on interior areas but prefer KBS for outside areas 😀