FINALLY! after a bit more than a year of scrimping and saving it's time to go engine shopping 馃憤
I'm not building it myself.... most likely will get custom vee dub to build it for me. looking at an 1835cc for daily driving / traffic terrorising. What in your guys opinion should i be putting the money into? my budget is about 6k and that will have to include carbies and the rest of the stuff. is it even possible to get something built for that money that will be reliable and have a decent amount of grunt?
suggestions would be greatly appreciated 馃檪
Oh, also, does anyone know anything about mounting monster tachos and ADRs? are they legal to have? i've seen a mount that uses the centre air vent to hold the gague / wiring. can't remember what website i saw it on. i'd rather do that than drill through the dash or something
Paulc1964au 路
Sounds about right budget I am about to have a 1776 built, so far have a new case, polished and ported heads, engle 110 cam and counter weighted crank shaft, mohle pistons and twin delorto 40's.
Engine case is machined for external oil cooler and also have a additional oil sump.
Still need to buy digital distributor, alternator, tinware etc then its off to custom bugs and buses to have it assembled and installed
^good advice
or get a smaller engine kit and have some super awesome heads or up the quality of say crank and rods
ps; I'm not sold on the Decade carbs so I'd go Weber
Bizarre 路
What are Decade Carbs??
Are they just DRD's rebuild of Emps??
vwo60 路
The decade carbs are a redisgn on the IDF's, there is a review of them in the november hot VW's, very good carb. i also forgot to mention, what ever youy do, do not put Kadron's on it, use one barrel per cylinder for your carburation.
Governor 路
I would use the DRD L 7 heads or his new ones hes just released
Paulc1964au 路
of course there are so many combinations and the big question is exhaust lol for me i will probably g for a vintagespeed exhaust
matberry 路
vwo60 wrote:The decade carbs are a redisgn on the IDF's, there is a review of them in the november hot VW's, very good carb. i also forgot to mention, what ever youy do, do not put Kadron's on it, use one barrel per cylinder for your carburation.
The Hot VW's article does a comparison with dual single throat Solex's, with a .8 sec improvement on the 1/4.......mmmm.
yes admittingly on a basic 1600. More testing required for me to 'recommend' them.
vwo60 路
As you said a basic 1600, just like to HMPX they have them right from what i read, but if you want 44IDF's you can have them for $260 US extra, this includes setting up to suit your engine.
Aussie Dubbin 路
Love this thread. Good on you for putting actual costs, company and suggested shipping and import duty. Thanks.
matberry 路
My point really was that the HVW's test was hardly worth the paper it was written on. To be meaningful it has to compare a set of Webers to the Decades back to back, and jet them too ffs.
I believe the quality of the DRD kits would definately reduces the build time of a high hp engine.
bajachris88 路
What i found interesting is it is not the overseas go-fast bits that cost the biggest money. Its all the little extra things. Cranks, P&B's and cam kits are relatively inexpensive compared to the sum of the total cost of the extras like pushrods, pushrod tubes, crank handware kits, oil cooler + mount, dissy drive shaft, general hardware/seals, shims/spacers, flywheel, pulleys, rockers, alt stands, oil pumps, oil strainer, tinwear, sump plates, rocker covers, gland nuts, relief valves and case studs etc.
Cip1 has a 10% sale at the moment to for halloween. expires on wednesday night. Be aware you can be taxed import duty if overseas purchase is over $1000
vwo60 路
Never happened to me in fifteen years if you use USPS.
"If a parcel, i.e. one consignment addressed to you contains goods or other packages that were imported for other people (such as your friends or relatives) and the parcel has a declared or assessed value exceeding A$1000 you will need to lodge an import declaration and pay the duty, taxes and charges. Customs law does not permit a parcel to be split or broken down into separate packages for assessment, even if those other packages were imported for other people. "
"Duty, GST and other taxes are calculated and payable when you make an import declaration for goods that have a value above A$1000 or if you import alcohol and/or tobacco products. When your import declaration is processed, Customs and Border Protection will provide you with a payment advice. The payment advice will show all amounts payable to Customs and Border Protection relating to your imported goods."
matberry 路
Yes Chris, but we have a free trade agreement with the states so I believe it's just gst, an extra 10%, so spend $3000 and pay $300, not really a deal killer. I've always kept my US orders under a grand and not been hit yet (in recent years at least), as bigger items I've purchased locally. I did have to pay duties on a large order from Sweden and duty was 5% +gst, so again, not bad really.
Having said that, if for any reason things aren't right, then it becomes interesting
Governor 路
I have spent thousands on parts sent from the USA.
Most sellers will actually put gift or a lower value on the postal declaration.
I have never once been charged any fees or GST?
If you can get the seller to use USPS its half the price of Fedex or UPS
vwo60 路
As i said, just be carefull how you have it sent, i have not paid any duty in fifteen years.
ragged 路
*Just a note*
Three points, 1. Import duty. 2. GST. 3.Mild mannered street engines for those who are accountants not engineers.
Australia and USA Trade Agreement means you will not pay duty on items originating or manufactured in the USA. If a supplier imports from China and exports to Australia it does not meet the criteria of the "agreement' so import duty is applicable.
If the value of the goods is under AU1000 including postage and handling, you are unlikely to pay the GST. Australian Customs deem that the cost them to process an import is AU100, so if it is under AU1000 they will be running at a loss if they process those items.
If you ask someone to under value or suggest it is a gift you are breaking the law. If you have ever had to deal with customs, they have more power than the police and you will not win. If you have gotten away with this in the past then good luck to you. You are gambling and sometimes you win, but when you loose it is costly. Don't ask me, contact a lawyer!
If you are going to import, select the fastest most economic option. Do not go for the cheapest, and unless you really need it tomorrow, don't go for the most expensive.
This last point is my opinion. If you wish to discuss it send me a PM, as I do not have time for a debate, but happy to discuss the theory if you are after information on an upgraded street engine, not a full race engine.
If you want a reliable daily driver, I would not recommend one carby throat per cylinder, unless of course you want performance and can drive mostly WOT.
To smooth out idle and part throttle running you intake requires a plenum manifold.
Cheers Dave
vwo60 路
Sorry to disagree with you about not using one throat per cylinder, tried most carbie combination during the last thirty years, the only way to go for drivability is exactly that, my 2276,fk87,10.8 to 1, two 48 drla's idles at 900 rpm pulls from 1500 rpm, smooth as silk. and i do not run it at WOT.
Paulc1964au 路
What distributor do you recommend, I am looking at the magnaspark digital.
I have not tried the magnaspark and cannot pass comment on it, i do know that the unilite with the vacuum advance has several advantages over the non vacuum advance model, i have had very good resaults with mine, it has been curved to suit the motor, if you want the best then you have to get rid of the distribuator altogether, this would be my choice. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1890
matberry 路
I've used both the Magnaspark and the Magnaspark Digital. Both great units. The digital has been instrumental in getting my big Fat Performance high comp race engine drivable on the street. The advance maps are fully adjustable on your laptop with vacuum and rpm inputs.
As for single throat per cylinder, I wouldn't have anything else, and many of my clients cars are running reliably like this. It's all in the set-up, jetting, linlages, heads, exhaust, compression ratio, valve train and cooling system, also engine-bay gear ratios and tyre size, build and maintain it properly and they give great performance, economy and longevety
matberry 路
I've also set up quite a few MSD's with very good results. The adjustable advance on the Magnaspark and the MSD are very similar 馃槈. Using different springs and stops works well and is nice and reliable.
coletrickle 路
vwo60 wrote:Sorry to disagree with you about not using one throat per cylinder, tried most carbie combination during the last thirty years, the only way to go for drivability is exactly that, my 2276,fk87,10.8 to 1, two 48 drla's idles at 900 rpm pulls from 1500 rpm, smooth as silk. and i do not run it at WOT.
With all the fruit you've listed above I would have thought that WOT would have been on the cards?
But seriously the bigger the engine the eaiser to break your gearbox.I'd be going for a real nice 1600.A cw 1600 with good rods a and a nice set of heads is all you need?A good little motor will eaisly make 100hp at the wheels and that's a lot of fun!
vwo60 路
Some people would break a crow bar in a sand box, i drive my car hard without abusing it, some people cannot drive and have gear box issues all the time, you could break a vw box with 50 HP.
coletrickle 路
vwo60 wrote:Some people would break a crow bar in a sand box, i drive my car hard without abusing it, some people cannot drive and have gear box issues all the time, you could break a vw box with 50 HP.
just pointing out that the more power you have it is a lot eaiser to break a Vw box.
ClockworkMonkey 路
Unfortunately i live in a shoebox and don't have anywhere to put the parts once they arrive 馃檨 importing parts was initially an idea i had and from the information you guys have put up here big things are possible.
I'm definately not going to be driving it flat out all the time (i'm assuming WOT is Wide Open Throttle?). it's a daily and i just want to make it a little more special. i'm not on a quest for high HP or low 1/4 times, just something i can take to a club meet or show day and park with pride 馃檪
some people have said to me once you go upwards from 1915cc engines tend to me a little more temperamental and have trouble with heat. i'd say this is in racing / drag applications and not related to a plain old daily but i dunno.
Thanks for all the info guys! i'm taking the car in to the mechanics on thursday so i'll take some of this info with me and have a good chat. Peter from Custom veedub has always been really good to me and the car. he's been looking after it for the last 2 out of 3 owners.
Very much appreciate the parts list and pricing vwo60! i'll be having a good look at that website tonight 馃檪
vwo60 路
A large engine does not equart to a tempremental engine, my engine runs 10.8 to compression ratio and is totally streetable as the rest of the engine has been matched so it works together, if done correctly it is not stressed and will live a long time, as for living in a shoe box you can have the parts delivered to your engine builder, Dave Butler is your man (55934806), he has built 100's of engines and is a machinist by trade so every thing is done inhouse, i cannot recommend him enough, he carried out the machining on my 2276 for me. import your parts, employ the best engine builder and get much better value for your money.
Paulc1964au 路
ClockworkMonkey wrote:Unfortunately i live in a shoebox and don't have anywhere to put the parts once they arrive 馃檨 importing parts was initially an idea i had and from the information you guys have put up here big things are possible.
I'm definately not going to be driving it flat out all the time (i'm assuming WOT is Wide Open Throttle?). it's a daily and i just want to make it a little more special. i'm not on a quest for high HP or low 1/4 times, just something i can take to a club meet or show day and park with pride 馃檪
some people have said to me once you go upwards from 1915cc engines tend to me a little more temperamental and have trouble with heat. i'd say this is in racing / drag applications and not related to a plain old daily but i dunno.
Thanks for all the info guys! i'm taking the car in to the mechanics on thursday so i'll take some of this info with me and have a good chat. Peter from Custom veedub has always been really good to me and the car. he's been looking after it for the last 2 out of 3 owners.
Very much appreciate the parts list and pricing vwo60! i'll be having a good look at that website tonight 馃檪
I am pretty much in the same situation hence building a 1776. I want a torque engine but not interested in high speed, just a little low down action so its a little quick of the set of lights just to raise a few eyebrows lol.
For me its more about a nice reliable motor that is fun to drive
Craig Torrens 路
if you want torque, put a stroker crank in it......its still going to be reliable.
matberry 路
Yep, big lazy understressed engine.......O dear, the possibilities
vwo60 路
Exactly what i have been saying, you can build the stroker by importing your own parts and have a heap more torque and reliable power for about the same price as building a 1776 here.
70AutoStik 路
But building a stroker is not just about importing a bunch of parts and throwing them in - there is a very good reason it costs so much more to have someone build it for you, often known as minimum wage!
Don't get me wrong, I'm a stroker guy - "Nothing beats inches, and the best way to get more inches is to stroke it!" Just kidding, but if you are building an engine to live at "lazy revs," or you are racing off road or hill climb, or just need the biggest size you can get (a la Bob Hoover,) stroking is a goer. Don't have the science figured out yet, but I agree with a lot of professional engine builders that a stroker is more reponsive, even if the RR is kept high.
If you want to keep costs down, try a 1776 or 1915 (unless you're in a Kombi or something.) You'll still get plenty of torque for your application and you won't spend enough time using the full power of the engine for heat to become an issue.
vwo60 路
With the budget stated in the first post there is enough money to import the parts and have someone like Dave Butler build it and still come out around the cost of a 1776. not rocket science.
binner 路
dont use DB shenker for freight, thats all I can say. My invoice came to $1200 total incl freight and I got fuc%^n reamed by shenker. They couldn't even track/find my order then started to charge me for storage freight daily after they found out it was sitting at their port in Bris for 2 weeks.
Since buying pretty much every part of an engine build from O/S I think the best/most efficient/best customer/fright charge service are
> Pierside parts
>Cip1
>aircooled