nbturbo ·
Anybody ever broken them and found an easy way to get the bits out of the crankshaft? I have been over an hour and managed to only get 2 out so far- 6 still to go.
Aussieveedubbers · Tech Mods and Frequently asked Questions
Broken flywheel dowell pins
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/99899/broken-flywheel-dowell-pins
vw54 ·
always hard to get out there tough
dangerous ·
Bummer!
I have done the same and we had to drill them out.
Most dowels are case gardened so the core is softer,
but some are through hardened and can be a pain.
The ones I had to do were thru hardenned and I needed to us a tungsten tip concrete drill, sharpened up.
The other option is some carefull tig welding of a lug on there for a slide hammer.
I have done the same and we had to drill them out.
Most dowels are case gardened so the core is softer,
but some are through hardened and can be a pain.
The ones I had to do were thru hardenned and I needed to us a tungsten tip concrete drill, sharpened up.
The other option is some carefull tig welding of a lug on there for a slide hammer.
HappyDaze ·
The masonry drill ^ is worth a try........but how did you manage to bust 'em, Garry??????🙄
nbturbo ·
. Still trying to figure out what happened. Have done a fair bit of damage. New convertor and crank hub are rooted,but have started on another hub and will run a standard convertor to get me racing. Been talking to Aaron(20b) and I will open the buggered one up and have a go at repairing it. Have run the engine to bed the cam and rings and was almost needing a blood transfusion- had a bit of activity in the front of my shorts.HappyDaze wrote:The masonry drill ^ is worth a try........but how did you manage to bust 'em, Garry??????🙄
nbturbo ·
Thanks for the tip Dave. The 2 I have got out so far are a lot softer in the gutz-but still quite hard.will get back into it tonight. You will probably hear the vocabulary full of " F " words from your place.
dangerous ·
Yeah, last one I did took me a whole day.
The one I experienced sheared on the dyno.
The gland nut also self tightened when it sheared,
so we were unaware of it until we were trying to remove the dyno hub.
Sounds like yours came loose.
When our crank was nitrided it softened the case hardened dowel, and it was not up to the torque capacity.
The new replacement scat dowels, once fitted, never had a problem after that.
Nitriding is normally around 560 degrees, which tempered the dowel to its core,
leaving only the thin layer of nitrided metal,
in the area that was exposed.
The one I experienced sheared on the dyno.
The gland nut also self tightened when it sheared,
so we were unaware of it until we were trying to remove the dyno hub.
Sounds like yours came loose.
When our crank was nitrided it softened the case hardened dowel, and it was not up to the torque capacity.
The new replacement scat dowels, once fitted, never had a problem after that.
Nitriding is normally around 560 degrees, which tempered the dowel to its core,
leaving only the thin layer of nitrided metal,
in the area that was exposed.