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Aluminium sealant Shineseal
eXraycer - January 8th, 2013 at 09:54 AM

Has anyone had any experience with this stuff? http://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/shineseal 

Basically I had my engine case chemically cleaned and glass bead blasted recently prior to commencing the rebuild. Also bead blasted the gearbox. So now it looks like new but i was faced with the problem of how to keep it that way for as long as possible so I started a search which didn't produce many results. Anyhow the closest I got were some guys stating on forums in the us about a product called zoopseal. Tracked down the new formulation called shineseal here in Australia. They say its good to 700degrees (Fahrenheit I expect) and it makes a chemical bond but does not change the appearance like a lacquer would. Sounded just right although a little expensive.
Anyhow, just wanted to know if anyone had used it. I really just wanted it to assist with keeping dirt and grime from sticking to the cast alloy parts. To make it easier in the future to clean up and maintain a high standard of finish and clean.

vwo60 - January 8th, 2013 at 05:42 PM

The temperature is high enough so it should work but i have has no experence with the product, if it does what it says it could be good, my only reservation could be that it might interfere with heat transfere

matberry - January 8th, 2013 at 06:28 PM

I use and recommend Gibbs Brand. Fantastic on all metal, rubber, glass ...anything. NASA won't do an electrical connection without it as it stops dissimilar metal corrosion and magnesium loves it.

http://www.gibbsbrandaustralia.com/ 

tar76 - January 8th, 2013 at 06:37 PM

Gibbs gives magnesium a really nice patina as well. Love what it did on my block. Reminds me i have to order some more Matt

matberry - January 8th, 2013 at 07:38 PM

No worries Tarin, new aerosol cans available next week. Let me know how much you want.

vlad01 - July 3rd, 2013 at 10:58 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
No worries Tarin, new aerosol cans available next week. Let me know how much you want.


can you tell me more about it?

looking at doing a manifold and bits here and there.

matberry - July 3rd, 2013 at 11:27 PM

Best to check out the web site. Not a paint, sort of like CRC - Armoural combo for metal :crazy:

vlad01 - July 4th, 2013 at 09:47 AM

do you know what the car makers use at the factory?


I have some bits that are cast that never corrodes or tarnish, doesn't look like a paint or anything for the matter of fact.

That sealshine sound more like what I am looking at.

matberry - July 4th, 2013 at 11:24 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by vlad01
do you know what the car makers use at the factory?



No, but I dislike putting any paint-like products on alloy, altho when I built my boat, I used a Tectyl product that looked very similar to clear anodising but I believe they don't make it any more :(. Think it was Tectyl 291 but not sure. May have an old tin somewhere.

vlad01 - July 4th, 2013 at 04:39 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Quote:
Originally posted by vlad01
do you know what the car makers use at the factory?



No, but I dislike putting any paint-like products on alloy, altho when I built my boat, I used a Tectyl product that looked very similar to clear anodising but I believe they don't make it any more :(. Think it was Tectyl 291 but not sure. May have an old tin somewhere.


I don't mind paint, but you must do it right to look and function right.

currently I clean the alloy with phosphoric acid, wash, dry.
super light coat of killrust primer (aero can is best, as its got no build) light coats of VHT caliper silver. Thats it for sandblasted alloy looks that lasts. if I want fancy gloss I go for more coat of the silver plus 2 of the caliper clear.

The kill rust primer is the key to making it last and durable, like anything wattle it works good. The VHT by itself doesn't fair as good even though they say to paint direct.

But in the end of the day if the alloy is just new and clean looking and is sealed off, that is the best.

The gibbs sounds perfect for bare metal flange like areas, eg. chassis part contact faces where paint is not allowed but rust is a problem.

How much is the gibbs?

matberry - July 4th, 2013 at 07:33 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by vlad01

How much is the gibbs?


Sounds like you have a system worked out.

I use Gibbs Brand in many places but it is exceptional in and around any seam (like rain gutters and body seams) and as rubber loves it too, it's good for those rust prone area's under the seals, and chrome trims, and electrical connections, nd, and .... My magnesium Porsche fan is maintained purely by applyinging Gibbs, I take the car on the beach and without the Gibbs the fan would be white and crusty with oxidation in no time.
Cost for the 400 ml aerosol is $36.00 +gst and postage.

vlad01 - July 4th, 2013 at 09:12 PM

Sounds good. I would like to use in on wheel hubs between the disk and bracket, bearing retainers, ball joint seats etc... Those kind of places get rusty but painting is out of the question as that causes stuff to come loose.

I'll PM you when I want a can.

vlad01 - July 8th, 2013 at 04:47 PM

how well does it work for mildly polished alloy?

vlad01 - July 14th, 2013 at 11:21 AM

Matt, Did you get my PM?

matberry - July 14th, 2013 at 02:57 PM

No mate, try again, don't forget th fill out subject line. Gibbs works on any surface, polished - rough cast

vlad01 - July 14th, 2013 at 10:29 PM

PM sent again.

Can't wait to use it, the winter moisture is shocking atm. Everything is dripping wet indoors so this should help a lot to protect my stuff and cars.