So I know this is very subjective, but if we are talking a mid 60s beetle which is stripped and totally rust free including the pan, almost complete and with loads of new parts, is around a grand a fair price or is that a bit much? I see a lot which have rust sell for a lot more so logic tells me its good but really don't know much about bugs. I'm looking at a quick turnaround project, not specifically for a bug for myself, so am I barking up the wrong tree or on the right track?
that is a good price. if you knock it back, let me know
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grab it
I'm told that the fuel flap on the side was filled in and it now has a tank with the filler on the inside of the bonnet. Isn't the fuel flap a later thing? The bug has a flat windscreen not a curved one, but may be a hybrid. Any way to tell for sure what year body I am looking at. Im guessing the official year of rego will be the pan not the body, but would chopping and changing bodies and pans decrease the desirability of such a car in resale later on? Car is missing a few things like bumpers and seats, are these relatively easy to get?
sounds like a 68+ beetle if it had a fuel flap. Hybrids are worth a lot less than good original. check it out properly before handing over the cash.
All the details on annual Australian VW changes are here:
http://www.clubvw.org.au/austvw001
Looks as though you're barking up the right track, pfillery.
Ok so I've checked this out and it is indeed rust free. Never seen one with no rust in it. Chassis number starts with 1967 which if my research
serves me correctly is an Aussie built and 1966 pan, does that sound about right (I'm not any sort of expert). Looks like a 1300 motor, swing axle
pan, 12 volt system, brake pedal has no pressure but its been sitting a while so not surprising, clutch is firm so probably a good sign right?
It has a few mods but nothing too far out there, I reckon it would make a good cruiser but I'm hesitant as its missing seats (has the rails) and
bumpers, needs a bit of finishing off, some seals and other bits.
I'm tossing up putting it back together but I don't want to take a huge gamble and end up with something I can't sell later. So is the "rust
free" factor enough to make it worth the punt?
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Anything I should be looking for? I checked all the common sense stuff like the door pillars, inside the body panels and doors (all the interior is
out of it and can see there is no bog and no dodgy messy repairs) even the heater channels are clean. All the body to pan bolts are new so it has had
a body off resto at some stage recently. From what he told me the fuel filler was on the passenger side and was filled in by the last owner, but I
can't see much evidence of that. Maybe someone fitted a later tank and bodged up a makeshift filler for it (I thought the filler would be on the
drivers side if it originally had an external one?)
The pan has been done with sound deadener on the inside and I can't see even any pinholes.
When did they come with a vin plate? Apparently it has id tags but I'm not sure if there would be a separate body number or just the one on the pan
that is important?
For Australian models the external fuel fillers didn't come in until the 1968 model (big windows, 1500 motor), and were ALWAYS on the right
(drivers') side. If this is a 1966 or 1967 model, it would have originally had the fuel filler under the bonnet, on the right. I am not sure what the
owner is talking about with the fuel filler, unless you can show us some photos.
For Australian models, a chassis number starting 196 is a 1966. Starting 197 is a 1967. The 1968 models were German kits, so their numbers start 118
(the THIRD digit is the year).
It was not a 'VIN' plate - VINs were not used until 1980. They were called 'Manufacturers Plates', and they were riveted to the body in the spare
tyre well, below the washer bottle. For Aussie 1960s Beetles they only included the Chassis Number (which should match the one under the back seat),
and the front/rear load limits in pounds.
There was a body number, stamped onto the front panel just near the brake reservoir, but it means nothing. There is no registry of Australian VW body
numbers anywhere. The chassis number is the only thing that matters.
What side is the front bonnet pull? Aussie models from 1960-67 were on the drivers' side; the German '68 and later kits were on the passenger side.
Well, took a punt, deposit paid, pick it up as soon as I can organise a tow.. Now the fun starts. Sell off the parts I don't need and buy the bits I do need to finish it. It is the older 60s wide 5 stud pattern swing axle pan but comes with spare IRS rear end drum to drum with springs, I didn't know they separated from the pan on later bugs. You learn something new every day. Maybe they thought they could convert it. Not sure if the IRS rear ends like that are that sought after or scrapyard fodder but it won't fit the bug so it will be first to go. Might make a good trailer axle
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It is like the one above or very similar. But without the gearbox attached and some surface rust.
I'll probably never do a trailer (don't have wheels to suit or the inclination to put in the time to do one at the moment) and will trip over it if
it sits there. Are they sought after or worth anything? It's bloody heavy so probably at least 100kg of scrap steel but would be a shame to scrap it.
yes, make great trailer, Jeff has one that I was going to copy but eventualy counted up my remaining years against the remaing jobs / wants and projects so sold the rear end, had no trouble moving it on. I rekon they would make a great off road trailer