Not sure if I am looking for the impossible. High Temp contact adhesive wanted to stick bunnings boat type carpet to the roof and get it to stay there rather than the glue melting in the heat.

silicone? but that's not a contact type glue...maybe one of the construction adhesives will do the job, simmilar to LIQUID NAILS, though you would need the LIQUID NAILS PLATINUM variety as the standard is not for metal heated by the sun, I know the standard Liquid nails works as a contact adhesive, not sure about the platinum .

Hi
I have used generic contact cement which is very cheap to purchase in tubes...
The secret is...
one.. the surfaces MUST be perfectly clean..
two.. coat both surfaces with contact adhesive...
three... wait until its touch dry... [not long on a hot day]
four... push together... in Your case the carpet to the roof.
Now You only get one go at this...
as soon as it grabs.. that is it...
and it should stick for many years...

I stuck those foam yoga mats everywhere in My beetle about 15 years ago... two layers on the roof... around the sides.. in the doors etc.. under the mudguards to stop stone chips..
above the gearbox and on the sides in the engine compartment.. and painted it flat black..

If You use contact cement the other way... just stick it on the roof or carpet and hold it there till it drys... it doesn't last all that long... and especially carpet will come adrift...
as far as i can tell... all contact adhesive or contact cement are all the same.. all look the same and smell the same and stick the same... so the cheaper the better...

cheers

Lee

Sikaflex.

There is a high temp contact adhesive, just ask any auto upholsterer

http://www.ritepricedistributors.com.au/adhesives/aerosols/3m-super-90-spray-...

I should have pointed out its for a T3 transporter so don't want to be spending a fortune either. anything in a tube I am going to be needing lots of. I will give the normal contact adhesive a go. I might ask an auto trimmer too and see what they say. its a big bit on lining

Kwik grip gel.

Can get it in a tin, apply with brush

There is more than one type of "standard" contact adhesive (though there is not really a "standard" as all manufacturers have slightly different mixes ), one is a liquid and there's another one more like a jelly, the jelly one is easier to apply overhead as it won't keep dripping / running off your application tool. The construction glue in tubes is available in a large sausage like container (like a large long plastic bag) and is surprisingly inexpensive, I'd strongly suggest you read the instructions on the pack for its' suitability before investing the time, $ are most times cheaper than time even if you are doing it yourself and not paying someone, the manufacturers make recomendations for a reason, they don't want their product to earn a bad reputation which it will quickly do if used in the wrong situation.
My two bobs worth.

Fair enough, however i did use it with marine carpet on the roof of my matt black beetle

Sikaflex polyurethane adhesive tube. Will stick a runny turd to a waterfall. Setting time may be an issue, upside down. Make sure you do not get any on you as you have to wear it off once it sets. My2c

Sikaflex is acidic and will cause rust on bare metal surfaces. Not sure if this issue was ever addressed but that's coming from our bus panel shop where the whole fleet suffered from rust on siliconed areas.

Use wurth products as the alternative was their recommendation after researching the issue

Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive not a silicone. There are 2 types of silicone acidic & non acidic depending on the surface they are being used on.

Neutral cure silicones are used on Metal, painted surfaces, acrylics and "soft" plastics.
Acid cure silicone are used on fired masonry such as tiles, porcelain, glass (except coated or painted glass), PVC class 2, timber or timber product and "hard plastics".
As the name suggests acid cure silicone contains acid which chemically displaces hygroscopic water and oily molecules trapped in pores on the embedment surfaces.
Always read manufacturers instructions regarding silicone sealants for plumbing fittings because sometimes they specify neutral sealants where the rule would suggest using acid cure sealants and visa versa.

Polyurethane sealants and polysulphide sealants (Hybrid silicone/urethane) are another class of sealants that can generally be used where ever silicone is used. The advantage these sealants have over silicone is that they are stronger, can bridge greater distances, and can be used with special primers to really adhere strongly to surfaces.

Again however anything classed as a polysulphide will have a slightly corrosive effect on delicate surfaces and should be used on the same surfaces as acid cure silicone.

Read more: http://www.renovateforum.com/f205/neutral-cure-vs-acidic-cure-silicone-56863/...

Polyurethanes hold our jets together, so that sh*t hangs on. My2c

http://www.daleys.com.au/products/view/92 

Good info luftmiester, thanx

use TAC adhesive brush 205.

designed for automotive trimming and industrial applications, made in Dandenong, high temp rating.

sticks like no other contact glue I have EVER used. 25 bucks for 500ml or 1L? I forget. I have bulk of this stuff coz I loved it so much.

http://www.tacadhesives.com.au/