My sons 1500 has a cracked block so need a new engine.
We are thinking of getting a turnkey 1916 from Stan Pobjoy. At $8k it is expensive enough...

The other option is a new long single port motor... one that will last!

The thing is we were quoted $4.5k for a 1641 long single port motor the block is new and from Brazil and rebuilt other major components. So for a extra $3.5k we could get a Stan complete engine...

Is $4.5k about right for a 1641 single port long motor with lots of new parts and reliability is essential. ?.

Is there a trusted builder that could build a good solid 1641 single port...

I don't mind spending money as long as I get a good product and the quote I got was from a local vw builder and I didn't like it when he said that Brasil vw engine parts were good including conrods. Which I really want to stick with good bits... I just lost confidence in some of his comments..

Peter
Canberra

1641 engines use a standard bore block so the extra ccs come from larger bores in 1600 cylinder barrels this results in cylinders with thinner walls and can be a problem as they don't handle heat as well.
I would prefer a 1600 over a 1641 for this reason or get the case machined for larger barrels and go 1916 or 1776 or whatever which are walled like a 1600.
1641 engines are a a way of a very slight increase in a budget fashion as the case does not need splitting and machining.
Stan has a good rep and loves a chat , Rod Penrose on here is worth talking to as are a few others .
Mitchell

I will be selling a 1679cc thick wall soon, pm me if you are interested.
Definitely stay away from 1641cc even if some engines seem to work and have survived abuse.

There is no doubting the reliability of Stans builds. he is set in his ways and it might be difficult for you to get him to build something other than his prescription.
I would resist however his insistence re twin hadrons as I don't like them and would prefer other options.
Rod Penrose also is well respected and has built many engines including some that have been the fastest in the world .
They are however by no means the only builders worth looking.
M

stans motors are good, we have a old one with webbers, its a bit camy for the street as when the power comes on she goes .
runs 15 over the 1/4 all day long . no need for 8 spark plugs .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmfkHZF02v8 

we also have a low compression Vintage vw 1915 small cam twin webbers that is real nice to drive on the street red bug at 1.30 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QTMMjfYuC8 

Wayne also so does some nice work at http://www.wpvw.com.au/welcome.htm 

If Matt Berry is close to you give him a call

Plenty and including the above mentioned engine builders are worth considering, what you need to do is figure out your needs, HP requirement, realistic purpose of the car and budget.

X 2 on twin plugs, IMO not worth the effort and money, spend it on a gearbox and stopping power.

you can't beat rod for value.

http://rodpenroseracing.com.au/24-engines-diy-kits 

Rods motors are the best value for money.

Thank you all for your coments... I showed these to my son and he is determined to get a 1916 engine. Guess we'll be either talking some more to Stan or give Rod a call. Thanks again... btw had a look at Rods web site and it is very well put together easy to navigate and has lots of info... worth the effort ...

Do continue to add comments as I'll be watching this tread...

Thank you very much again.....

Highly recommend Rod for integrity.

Rang Rod to enquire about a new case as I have been recommended to start with by other reputable engine builders. Rod went on to enquire what model Beetle I had (1976) he then explained that if it still had the original engine case it would be an AS21 compound. In his words "the best case VW ever made. I could sell you a new case, but I would be ripping you off unless your old case cannot be rebuilt."

Thanks Rod for your honesty.

For Sale 1970 VW beetle, Monza red in colour. Fuel injected 2213 stroker engine with recent top end rebuild including brand new heads with long throw spark plugs low klms since rebuild.
Haltech engine management. Gene berg stroker crank (90.5 mm bore x 86mm stroke), berg oil coiler, new high amp alternator,Type 3 gearbox with lock out shifter, genuine 16 inch (hand polished) porsche fuchs wheels , saas seats. New running boards. Porsche 944 front discs drum rear. A lot of dollars spent located at salamander bay (near newcastle nsw) $13000 no silly offers thanks regretful sale only selling as Iam moving on to another project. Phone 0413521516

My suggestion would be to give Rod a call and have a chat.

I have one of his 2054cc engines and I absolutely love driving it!

Not sure if anyone knows how good this guy is?


http://vwengines.com.au/ 

Rod built my new engine for my 54 oval...recommended service & help...its the best engine that has been in the car in my 25 years of ownership. ....

Hi guys and thank you everyone for the recomendations .
Peter , The original 1500 cc single port engines were all built on the single relief engine cases and these are no longer available as a replacement case . All of the new engine cases are based on the later 1600 cc dual oil pressure relief cases that you can use to rebuild your engine now if you want to go this way .
http://rodpenroseracing.com.au/cases-magnesiumaluminium/243-magnesium-case-as...
The other alternative is that I can offer you a complete 100% brand new engine that you can either assemble yourself , or I can assemble it for you . You can have any size engine you want based on the same engine case . The 1916 cc engine you mentioned is a good reliable and powerful engine as an up-grade from your 48 HP 1500 cc that you have now .
I can offer you a variety of engines from the 1916 cc engine
http://rodpenroseracing.com.au/84-rpr-base-series  that is all new and assembled that will produce 75 HP . This engine will require a set of twin carbs
http://rodpenroseracing.com.au/bolt-on-carby-kits/539-kadron-dual-carb-kit-no... , and possible a few more small upgrades from your original single port engine .
If you have a little more funds at your disposal , you could go for
http://rodpenroseracing.com.au/25-rpr-signature-series  that will now produce over double of your original power . If you decide to go this way , you will have to up-grade to a set of these
http://rodpenroseracing.com.au/bolt-on-carby-kits/535-40mm-idf-carby-kit-comp... as you will not get the full benefit out of the engine with the smaller carbs . If you need some more info please contact me anytime , Rod , 02-42729920 .

Dont forget its not just the cost of the engine if you go down the higher performance route.
You then need to look at fitting better brakes and suspension, if you have twice the original power you need twice the original braking power.

Brad heard from Rod the other day and his new 1916 is nearly finished And may get on the dyno this week.... if not no biggy as the wait will be worth it... we had to take it off the road 4 weeks ago as there was about 250mls of oil leaking out of the crack every day and had left a trail up the street and into our driveway.... But gave me plenty of time to strip the back and do some body and paint work as well as tidying up a few bits including new boots, trans mounts and wiring....
All that is left to do is get rid of the regulator under the back seat do some wiring as we are getting an alternator with the new engine...

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