Hi there, just wondering if i could get a little info on Rego.
I'm looking at buying a type 3 that has been out of rego for a couple of year. Rust is pretty minimal, paint job is pretty rough, but the car is straight.
I dont have any experience with Registering older cars, especially after they have fallen out of rego. How hard is it to get older cars reregistered in NSW?
I guess its a pretty open question, and it would depend where you go too.
But provided that the brakes work, blinkers work, engine and gearbox work, plus seats and seatbelts etc, is it very difficult?
I really like the car, and will be taking it on as a project.
But first, just wanted to get bit of an idea how strict NSW is on registering older cars that have been out of rego.
Appreciate any help i can get
Cheers

Quite strict. You will need a 'Blue Slip' which is a comprehensive inspection. they will look at everything and the car must be not far short of mechanically immaculate to pass - oil leaks, exhaust smoke, seatbelts, tyres, brake lines, rips in trim, holes in carpet etc rust etc must all be 110%.

[ Edited on 9-2-2007 by VWCOOL ]

110% thats tough. So 10% better than new?

I've never had any trouble in registering 3 cars and a car trailer which had expired rego. The only problem I had was when retractable seat belts were fitted in place of original. I had to reinforce the mounting which I saw as rather pointless but I did it without complaining as you dont need the grief. A legal roadworthy car will always pass a roadworthy inspection.

If you want my advice leave a few things on it blatantly obvious that are not working but easy to fix. Remember the Blue slip guys job is to find stuff. From an RTA view point theBlue Slip guy can't pass all cars with out find anything. If he does they are going to come and investigate how he does Blus Slips. And he don’t want that hassle. So make a few small things obvious like a bald tyre or blinker that doesn't flash. They will be happy to find some small things that they can put on their list. You then fix them easily and then go back and they recheck these items. Too easy. I have found if you fix everything they then go look for stuff that is really hard to fix. Like a slight oil leak on a VW engine. Man that can be a pain to fix it you just want to drive the thing. We all know they leak, so a small oil drop should be fine but you could get knocked back on it.

hmm, might need to get the thing repainted then :S
i kind of wanted to leave it rough for a bit
So i guess a bit of it depends on "who you know" for getting the blue slip?
I myself dont want to drivng around in a dangerous car, so it'll be mechanically 100% before i try to get the blue slip, but i guess i have to look at rust, paint, and interior condition a bit more by the sounds of it..

we got failed when the dot inspector removed the seat covers and found a really small tear about 15mm long and a ciggy burn depends on what sort of day they are having i guess

They can not knock you back on dodgy paint. Dents etc. But can on structural rust, ripped seats, seat belts etc.

Thanks for the help everyone.
The info has been really helpfull.
I was just wondering one more thing though. Is the fact that the car has a later model floorplan on it going to impact on its blue slip?. Could it be knocked back for that? It's not original, and its newer than the original car is (i guess). Its also a 12 volt system too.
Is anyone on this bord authorised to do blue slips etc?
Maybe i should be asking them specific questions, instead of boring everyone else with general stuff :blush
thanks for the help
cheers

No, you don't need paint. Just as long as you know the original colour. Check Vanwinkle in VWMA mag. What it needs to be a all STEEL. They probably won't notice the floor pan. Get it booked in on a Sat morn, they are usually flat out then.

They do want to see the engine number/chassis. They do check for visible rust, though they don't go pulling up carpet if its fastened down etc., They will just use a lead light under it. They will check for oil leaks big time, and for anything else thats leaking like brake cylinders, master cylinders etc., Leaking hoses, weal bearings, tie rod ends, still that moves and shouldn't.

Good news is that most people only make 2 trips to get the bluey. I've never had one go straight through. You do want to do it right ... as then you and the general public that you might injure will feel much better about the whole thing.

Modifications = trouble. You need to get a licenced NSW engineer to check all modifications from standard. This can require you to do other stuff, like retractable belts and blower/demisters on the screen.

Far easier to get it regod as near to stock as possible, then come home and slam it. But then again, they didn't notice my adjustable beam etc., when I got a bluey, but they did go and check to see if a panel van needed a headliner in the cargo area.

My advice is just to show up and deny all knowledge of everything. Smile, be nice but definately adjust you IQ down to a low level. They are not checking original spec against what they see. They don't have time. They wont care its 12v, just that the lights work.

You are dealing with human interpretation of a set of rules of course, nothing is definate. The alternative method is go see Big Phil at the Blue Cattle Dog in St. Clair - just take a pen with you and a hundred bucks. lol....

haha cheers.
thanks for the extra info.
it makes things easier having a tiny bit more of an understanding for the system, as its all new for me.
thanks again.