Does the engine oil definetely have to come out to take engine out? How do you pull the accellorator cable out from the fan housing once it is
unbolted from carb?
Simon
Is this on a beetle ?
If you are not working on the motor, then leave the oil in it.
Re Cable: just reach your hand behind the fan housing and pull it through, then get under the car and pull it through the rear tinware hole.
Putting new piston rings in, yes beetle
Thanks for your help.
if you are putting new rings in then yes drain the oil
Once you take the clyinders off you can see into the sump
a) you WILL spill it
b) it is open to atmosphere and crap WILL blow in
Ok thanks drain plug was stuck, so had to loosen the other 6 or somthing
nuts. Fingers crossed that nothing goes wrong lol
Simon
in a beetle there is a acc. cable tube
grab it with pliers ...avoid snagging the cable as ...u pull the tube out
then pull cable from behind fanshroud
Quote: |
Ive found on a few beetles people have put a hose clamp on the back of the tube that goes through the fan shroud. The one your ACC cable goes through
when taking a motor out, you don't need to remove this tube as it comes out with the complete motor and tinware. You only need to remove the tube if
you are taking the fanshoud off whilst in the car.
A motor is more efficiently removed complete, then stripped once removed.
Well my first time pulling motor went with out too many dramas Took ages
tho to pull engine from gearbox as my driveway is on a fairly big slope and the fact that I used ramps to raise Beetle didn't help.
Will strip down engine tommorow and put new rings in.
Anything tips I should know before I attempt this?
Thanks alot everyone for all your help.
Simon
Ball Hone
Took the heads to a head machinist today and the news is not good. Heads
have several cracks and spark plug holes have been helicoiled. Looks like im up for some new or good used heads. Anyone got some good used 1600 DP
heads that they are willing to sell? Will post in Buying and Selling.
Simon
Well got the engine back in and running tonight after my first top end rebuild. After I worked out that a car needs fuel to start, it started straight up
. Feel so happy right now that I thought I might have an acceptance speech and thank the people that made this
possible
First up: Joel (Joel), thanks heaps man couldn't have done
it without your vast knowledge. Thanks Steve (greedy53) for being so nice and trying to help and thanks Liam (liam66) for selling me some good heads.
Thanks also to everyone else on AVD that offered me advice
Just gotta fix a sticking throttle issue and *fingers crossed* I should be done. Hopefully don't have to drop the engine for another 10 years. Don't know how you guys do it so quick.
Thanks everyone!
Simon
thats what these forums are all about
Just out of curiosity, where are the cracks in the head from the photos shown?
I wouldn't worry too much about the helicoiled spark plugs as this just means that the thread was previously sheared while trying to install the
spark plugs into an alloy head incorrectly. I am sure that there are lots of engines with helicoils to fix that problem.
Looking at the photos the head seems quite good. Not that I am an expert, I am just interested in what to look for in case I need to remove the head
for any reason.
- Adam
The photo doesnt really show the cracks. In the first picture you can see cracks branching off from the spark plugs holes in both chambers. In the
second picture it has cracks coming from spark plug holes and also on the left chamber u can see it is all cracked between the two valves.
Simon
you can see the cracks in the heads from the plug hole to the inlet valve
Top pic LHS is best example