what sealant do i use to seal the crankcase when im rebuilding the engine??

do i oil evrything up before i put it together or will it do that internally??

are there any major dont's that some people do that i should look out for

cheers guys... any help appreciated!!

pertex aviation sealant.......... loctite hi temp red around cam plug

yes OIL EVERYTHING that rotates! (use cam breakin lube if new cam and lifters)

not too much in the cylinders

each and every time you install each new part as you build, turn the crank over so to keep check on it's "free-ness" this will help prevent a total teardown if suddenly you discover it's seized at the end of the build

might think of some more to add later (for sure others will chime in on this one anyways)

dont go to crazy with the sealent on the case faces especially around the flywheel end
ive pulled apart 2 engines now where someone has done that and it had squeezed out and blocked the oil return passage from the main seal
used to drive me nuts trying to figure out why the main seals leaked so badly even with new german Elring seals and Orings and no case cracks

it is all the same stuff im puttin back in so no breaking lube required...
will normal castrol do the job??

yep

IMHO avoid using any silicones or 'thick' gasket cement as this will leave a gap inbetween the cases - i know it may be miniscule, but its important to allow for
bearing "crush" when the surfaces join and get torqued up. Personally i use PERMATEX as it doesn't harden up and gives you time to assemble the halves without
the stress of any curing times. Avoid being over zealous with applying it as it will run into holes , gaps, etc.

When it dries, it is still a bit gooey, but no longer a runny
liquid - its also impervious to oil and other contaminants so it makes a great seal.

I have also applied generous amounts around the cam plug and it has stood the test of time !

I personally dont use any sealant on or around the flywheel seal when installing it or the pushrod tube rubber seals - they should go in dry.

Ok to use with gaskets as well for additional assurance, particularly on piston barrels, oil pump, fuel pump and the generator/alternator pedestal.

Its also highly recommended to use it generously on the six big main nuts and washers that hold the case together too.


As far as assembly lube is concerned - if the engine is going to sit for a while, best use a thicker oil, something like STP additive as it wont
run off while its sitting, otherwise just normal oil if ur super keen to fire it up straightaway.....

Tom Wilson's "Rebuilding your Aircooled Engine" (red book) is a valuable resource and has been my bible for engine rebuilds, I highly
recommend owning one as it has many useful tips and careful explanations of a step-by-step strip-down and rebuild.

have fun and good luck !

Curil T as it doesn't go hard. I always put sealer on pushrod tube seals as i would rather have no leaks then have to pull them all out and seal em up once you've started the engine and it gets hot the leaks will start...

as per above each time you install an item make sure it turns under it own weight

and dont be short on the oil use plenty of it

and this is available at the hardware???

so i put the sealant on everything that comes apart to fix, that i dont to come apart while driving??.... any places where it definitely DOESN'T go???

put on with a small paintbrush maybe??

thanks for the info guys keep it comin.... this is my first dub!!!

i got some permatex ULTRA BLACK today. it says its a hi temp rtv silicone gasket maker - maximum oil resistance... is this suitable???

lets see how im goin so far.... so i put it all around the crankcase surface, barrels, and cam plug?? any other bits??

and what guage oil should be used?? (eg 20W 50)??

cheers
luke

You need to get PERMATEX aviation form a gasket number 3 or 4 (the non hard setting one) in a little white bottle with a blue and red label.

Wrong permatex product. Avation sealant is not silicone based as silicone can squeeze out of joint and set then break off and block an oil feed line! The stuff you want comes in a bottle with a little brush built in.

righteo cheers.... no anyone in ipswich/brissy that stocks it???

Supercheap has it up here, and prob Repco etc etc.

And use the rtv black silicone on the base of the barrels and pushrod tubes (if you're going to use anything there). Always new pushrod tubes if the std type, and paint them too.

i actually work at supercheap and this is the closest i could find.... i'll have a longer look tomorrow and maybe try repco.

the pushrod tubes on the motor at the moment are fairly decent aftermarket ones.... replace anyway???

There's aftermarket and there's aftermarket... More info please, maybe a pic. Most are crapp, scat or JC with 2x small oring are good.
You're looking for Permatex #3.

while ive got the block ripped apart would it pay to replace bearings (old ones look fine)??

and is there any other little things i can replace??

also i have some loctite 515 in the fridge - will this do??

No to 515, must be aviation goo #3 by permatex or curil k2 available at a good volksie shop.

Should you replace bearings and what else while your there?......mmmmI can think of a few but where to start? How do you know the old ones are good?

cbc stores across australia stock loctite no.3 aviation gasket, also blackwoods and atom supply stores should have similar ones the guys in the workshop swear by the stuff in the landrover gearboxes as they are all ally run into similar dramas with other types of silicone not bonding properly, i could mail you some but might take a while from darwin

the engine was in running order when i tore it down so im only assuming the bearings looks fine....

as for the pushrod tubes, they are the two piece plastic ones with the big spring...

pauld, it would save me a fair bit of looking time if you would do that. not in a rush so time is no issue.

those plastic ones where designed by hitler himself to annoy the piss out of anyone ever silly enough to wrench a vw, throw them out! PLEASE, . . . . . . . better yet post a picture of them burning, so they may never bother anyone again

nils, see you feel strongly against these!! dont blame me i didnt buy them. but sounds like i will be buying newbies!

hah ah ah ahahah! yeah seriously new tubes are not worth much. if you plan on doing any off road work you might keep one as a emergency fix. otherwise they have no place on a vw (unless you like your car to change its own oil)

am rebuilding my 1835 over christmas - new years break, will be my first full rebuild. plan on putting up a post with plenty of pix, so stay tuned! and can share some ideas/problems

finally found some #3 (at work - my bad) the build will start as soon as my 92's arrive.

small update......

have been workin on the motor every afternoon for a couple a days and i finally have it all put together!!

only thing is.. i forgot to line up the distributor drive shaft with the crank gear to set the timing right i got the distributor drive out of the case and it requires some finesse to line it all back up. i have the notch in the pulley lined up, i have the drive shaft lined up, but it wont go in
any tips??????????????? or anything else that is commonly missed in a rebuild????????????

cheers
luke

pull it down and start again. If you forgot one thing then there is probably more. Better to waste time than time and money.

To install dizzy drive, set timing marks on crank pulley, install drive shims on the seat by sliding them down a long screwdriver, install drive, but it does rotate as it engages the crank gear, so you need to allow for that as it goes into mesh.