Changing the oil on my 1300 tommorow, I've often used the Shell old engine stuff, but I was trying to remember what some other people have used with good results, I think it was a Castrol oil GTX?

anyway what are you blokes running and what works best?

looked on the Castrol website, they actually recomend the magnatec oil, so I think i'll go get that

I heard the magnetec is no good for vw's, can't remember why but??? I use penrite hpr 30. Used it once and never looked back! My car stopped leaking so much oil when i started using it.

yeah i wouldn't use magnetec in this area this time of year something thinner hpr 30 i would like to try
have a search

i use a pensoil straight 30 had no problems over the years

I use penrite hpr 30 or 50 if your motor is a little tired
I've used 30 for the last 15yrs in all my rides n have never had a problem
go the penrite
castrol meh

heard that castrol turns ur motor black inside, more so then most. im currently using valvoline low vis 10-30 in my new motor and for me its the best iv used so far.... on the old 1300, i used a number of things but got the best results from valvoline xld plus. iv been told by many performance vw ppl that a monograde 30 gives the best of both worlds in an aircooled motor, but i cant seem to find one so personally never tried it.

thinner oil in the winter! but not much thinner.

I use penrite non burn....

penrite classic 30 or hpr 30

we must remember that vw oil is also for cooling as well the book i read ay 30 graed for the best performence

When i got my bug serviced at Vintage they used Nulon 15w/40.

I recommend against 50w oil , too thick for proper cooling, and I'm in Queensland. Penrite is also questionable as too how they measure thier viscosity as thier oils always seem way thicker than most other brands, and since it's the volume/flow of oil that is a major part of our cooling system (thicker oil will show high pressures and lower oil temps as its not got the volume to wash the heat from the pistons as much as a thinner oil). I recommend a thinner oil, unless the bottom end is nearly falling out of the engine when a 50 grade Penrite would be a good choice.

I use and recommend Brad Penn or Castrol magnatec depending on owners requirements.

im using valvoline low-vis 10w-30 and im very happy with it..... not much thicker then running in oil.... great engine response. wouldnt recommend it for older engines though, would probably knock a bit.

Brad Penn 20w-50 or castrol Edge 20w-50, go for an API SG rating oil.

I just bought 5lt of Nulon 20W - 50 High Kilometer Engine Oil. Seems to be doing ok so far.

depends on the health of the engine

20/50 is like tar
fine in old worn shitters that need it to keep some oil pressure up but fresh new engines are generally happiest on something like 10/30
i run mine on 10/30 pennzoil

like polak said im not real impressed with castrol
the engines ive pulled down that i ran out were very sludgy inside
when i decompressed my 1776 after nearly 4000kms on pennzoil it was still cleaan as freshly built inside

problem with thicker oils in fresh engines, well dual releife blocks anyway is the excess pressure is bled off thro the valves and bypasses the oil cooler which pumps the oil temps right up

Whatever happened to that ACE 30 stuff that was around a couple of years ago?

I usually use GTX2 in my VW's and change it often, but my turbo motor will most likely get mobil one fully synthetic one it's broken in (gotta save up for that!! ).

OT: Can't remember where I saw it, but I read somewhere not to use synthetic in a fresh engine either...run it in on mineral oil then swap to synthetic after x number of miles.
Might be to do with the bedding in of the rings?

Changed the oil today, I bought some Penrite HPR 30, seems to be working well, no leaks at all, except for me being a idiot and not looking whilst filling it up and spilling some.

so far Penrite HPR 30

I'm using 20w 50 in my 1600 and its just fine. Granted that it isn't the best condition engine around.
Valvoline, you know what I mean.

Quote:

Originally posted by type3lover Whatever happened to that ACE 30 stuff that was around a couple of years ago? I usually use GTX2 in my VW's and change it often, but my turbo motor will most likely get mobil one fully synthetic one it's broken in (gotta save up for that!! ). OT: Can't remember where I saw it, but I read somewhere not to use synthetic in a fresh engine either...run it in on mineral oil then swap to synthetic after x number of miles. Might be to do with the bedding in of the rings?

ACE 40 (25W-50) and 30 (20W-40) are both available in Sydney from CLASSIC Vee-Dub (George), and VINTAGE Vee-Dub (Boris).
There may be others...? Or Ask your favorite VW store to stock it!
OR "QPL" (Quality Performance Lubes) will courier orders direct (Min. order is 3 x 5L, or 1 x 20L) anywhere in Australia. Phone Neil or Ian on 03 5367 8794 BH. They will take credit card over phone (or post a cheque, etc.).
QPL (the only Australian manufacturer) is at http://www.qplubes.com  which doesn't seem to show up well in searches.
Application/technical enquiries re 'ACE' Air Cooled Engine oils can be sent in writing to aceoil@optusnet.com.au

i run GTX 2.

so Mattberry and Joel are you saying its a little thick and a bit shit? my engines about 8 years old and mostly stock.

its fine in engines with a bit of mileage

just not when theyre freshly built with nice close tolerances it leads to oil pressure being way to high
the engine combats this by bypassing the oil cooler so it heats up more and thins out which just leads to high oil temps
well thats on a dual releife case anyway
pretty sure the single releife dont bypass the cooler

my case is dual releif, and i dont have a pressure guage at the moment (well its sitting in the garage ) dip stick is never too hot to touch after driving, usually only warm.

baja bugs usually have that strange condition of being overcooled

Quote:

Originally posted by Anthiron my case is dual releif, and i dont have a pressure guage at the moment (well its sitting in the garage ) dip stick is never too hot to touch after driving, usually only warm.