Can anyone tell me the best way to fit aftermarket seats (sass) to my 71 superbug..
any pics would be helpfull..

ive done what most people do,
keep the runners off the stock seats (they just unclip off) and just weld something to them that the new seats can bolt to

i went for complete replacement tilt/slide[cobra] subframes on my buckets,as the og seat runners were to big for the seat..

Boomerdog......you got any pics of the base of the seat??

the hardest part is finding seasts low enough to fit without your head banging on the roof honda have a few also alfa but the surprise is daihatsu highjet see if i ahve a pic

this is what i did.
found a seat i liked, then measured it up then went and measured up my beetle. they fit.
next,pull the frames off your seats.
get some flat bar,think its about 40 or 50mm wide. measure the width of the base frame of your new seat."say its 550mm"
cut the flat bar 560mm or so"make sure its as wide as your seat frames u pulled off you super bug.
there will be bolt holes on your new seats,mark where they go on the ends of the flat bar.now drill them.
you will have to weld the flat bar on the seat frames, then bolt the seat to the frames.

before u weld the bar onto the frames, put the frames in the car on the runners,put the seat on them and mark where u want the seat.so u know exactly where to weld the flat bar.

hope thats not to confusing.

sweet

ok these are basically how my seats are fixed...

i seam welded a thick structual shaped flat bar cross ways across the pan to the inside of the front of the og seat runners side to side to take the from leg mounts of the seat subframemake sure you seam weld it right across the pan,i then drilled the subframe in postion on the front legs all the way through the pan ,this is looking from the front to the back,the rear mounts pick up on the og seat runners bolted sideways.the seat runners have had bracing added on the face & on the inner pan....note the legs are height adjustable & also different height billit spacers wre used to get the correct level.


this is the side view,front mounting to the left

on the bottom of the pan you have to spread the load on the high tensile bolt ,so using thick gauge flat washers this is achieved, the pan is basically 'sandwiched'between the weld bar & flat load spreader,
under view...

make sure you get someone to weld the inner cross plate well ,there is 0 flex in the pan if you get it right ,i put whole new pans & heater channels in my car on the resto ,just don't attempt it on a suspect rusted floor.by beefing everything up it is way better than the stock setup on a flexy floor.

the beauty of putting in aftermarket subframesis you can position them as far back as you want ,i am 6ft 2 so find i need a bit more leg room for fast shifts,also height wise you can make sure you are not driving looking at the sunvisors all the time, the seats are now set at a comfy height for clutch ,brake,shifter & line lock.


hope this a helped...

sits back..peals a grape, taps finger & waits for all the 'you shouldn't have done it like that' comments...

Dude.... thanks heaps for the pics it's helped alot... and it just makes so much sence.. i think it'll be easier to do
it this way than useing the original seat base...

There's more than one way to skin a cat. Also I think you need an engineers report legaly. So dont do anything if you need to get an inspection.

even if you dont need an inspection, if you have an accident and your injured and the insurance company finds you have modified illegally. they wont have any problem whipping you and making you totally liable.
just food for though
also try looking here
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=49330&page=1#pid462050 
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=76831&page=1#pid715059 
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=49330&page=1#pid462152 
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=35280&page=2#pid375100 

forgot to say all my work was done in the uk ,on entry to oz the car passed the blue slip & engineers report here no probs...i just had to put door handles back on as it was all on remote solanoids & disable the line lock,oh & raise the ride height to a very stupid 100mm......i should be in the circus ,the amount of hoops you have to jump through...

& yes my insurance has every mod listed ...

hmm....
and any of this blue plate compliant?
all this 'welding' work makes me quiver...
the blue plate compliance officer i been in touch with doesn't like the idea of any welding....

sellotape or no more gaps then?...smirk...

high tensile nuts and bolts of a specific size rather...
with a certain size spec metal plating sandwiched on the floorpan with the bolts.

Using the ADR approved seat rails that get sold with the SAAS and autotechnica seats

But if its for trackwork, then why stuff around hey. I just hate the idea of getting a defect slip thats all :P

ANY form of welding on the chassis will require an expensive engineers cert. any bolt on mods requires a cheap run of the mill blue plate instead. Do it the right way once and u will neva have any trouble

I do need to get a roady done for reg.. but the last roady place knocked me back on the orig seats, said they rocked back and forward (not allowed) so i got these seats to do the job, and cause they look good.. but i was saving for a wedding and now a house and i dont have the money to get the engineeres done, so im just gonna get so good original seats to get the roady then i'll do the sass ones.... does anyone have a set of stock seats i can borrow so i can get my car roadied and regersted????? im in melb and am looking to do it next month...