Do you have to run the 2 little square peices of tinware that sits under the barrells above the J tubes on a 1600,and can they be fitted without removing the J tubes.
yes - you need to run these, otherwise the cooling effect wont work properly
i have seen them fitted afterwards by hammering the clips flat and them running a long skinny bolt through from the top with a washer up there
won't work at all
It sucks when you don't remember to put them on untill after u have torqued the heads down 
Not that I've ever done that 
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Hi
Ive seen them fitted on top of the cylinders.
Steve
if they have been missed when assembling the engine better off removing the heads and fitting properly other wise they will probally rattle loose and fall out there made to be a slightly spring fit when installed
I never missed fitting them,i got the engine with them missing so i wonder how long they have been missing??? the engine come up good on a compresion test and end float is good,i was told the motor runs well, and it does look to be in good condition.So i guess im better of buying a set of spring loaded J tubes and fitting them,anybody got a set they want to sell??? cheers shane.
Spring loaded j tubes!To quote Jackie Childs"What is a wookie doing on endor it does not make sense"I think you mean springloaded pushrod tubes.Its cheaper to get a full set of std vw pushrod tubes and a tube of curil sealant(green 1) and a set of the white elring push rod tube seals and do the the job properly Ive seen more springloaded pushrod tubes leak than those that don't leak.This is the start of something that took me a long time to get my head around,but don't tell anyone ok,With a vw when you try every way under the sun to get around doing the job the right way all you do is delay doing the job the right way.And when you start doing things like this your on the way to doing heaps of cool stuff with your vw and gashing your hands and learning new swear words!
Pushrod tubes thats what i meant
thanks cole,the only reason why i
want the spring loaded ones is then i dont have to take the heads off???
See how it goes dude but my crystal ball tells me that the engine you bought may not be all you were told,I hope i'm wrong but you said you were told it runs well so even if it was only 15 minutes with out the deflector plates as soon as it gets hot after you fit the deflector plates you will have a lot of blow by and oil leaks due to compression getting past the rings and into the sump and you will pull the engine to fit new/good 2nd hand pistons,rings and possibly heads! it looks in ok condition because he degreased it!
I know im trying to do it on the cheap??? to be honest i paid next to nothing for the motor it came as part of a package deal my mate got,it even came
with a engine stand
,i have had the motor spinning
on a stand to do the compresion test and it spins fine,so im just trying to put it together and see if it runs good if not i will put it in the
corner,so im trying to spend little $$$ as i can on it.
OK i can do cheap remove heads,remove pushrod tubes fit deflector plates ask any of your mates who have been into vws for a while if they have any of those brown brazillian pushrod tube seals(when i buy a brazillian gasket kit i only use the paper gaskets the rest of it in the bin)if they have they will give them to you probally while smiling.If you cant get any for free clean up the old seals and tubes,seal up with high temp sillicone re assemble and your good to go!