Considering buying a 2000 Beetle 2L motor, 150ks. I dont know much about these new ones. The reviews arent favourable though. Any advice?
Cheers
Dave
My wife has a 2008 TDi and loves it. I dont mind it either.
Unbelievable milage - 600+kms from 45L round town
Over a 1,000kms on a run
Originally I didnt want one - but now enjoy it.
Fun and quirky to drive - but they are different.
Have a drive of one - the sitting position and view is a little different.
Rear seats are for short trips only and the boot is not suited to couriers.
If you want decent rear seating and a good pay load - buy a commodore wagon
We have had no trouble in 3 years and 30,000 odd kms
I would go for a diesel if you can - just stay away from a 1.6L and run a mile from a 1.6L auto.
The diesel is only available in manual
if you have a garage - get a vert.
I reckon they look good. Lowered and 17"s
| Quote: |
I see a lot of them now for sale..
getting a bit old...
well old for a new beetle... lol
they seem to have a few problems that japanese cars don't..
but considering they are made in mexico..
if all the electrical parts were made in Germany wouldn't be so bad I guess...
read recently where someone has a Golf that did an engine at 60,000 [from memory] and had a new one fitted under warranty, another engine blew at
60,000 and VW checked and the owner had been using 95 octane fuel... which just isn't goo enough.. so now no engine..
LEE
We have just had the 210k service on our 2004 2.0l auto cabrio and it has been a great car. No electrical problems at all and pretty much just
regular servicing.
Yogie
Lee I remember reading that story, but the owner had in fact used 91 octane (against VW's specific instructions), not 95.
All modern VWs (except for the 'R' models) can use 95. The high performance models still need 98.
http://www.carpoint.com.au/news/2009/volkswagen/volkswagen-reviews-fuel-recom...
VW sources their parts from all over the world (even some from Australia). Even German-made VWs don't always use German-made parts. Most of the
electrical problems with the Mk3 Golfs, for example, were caused by VW using Italian-made relays and sensors. These are easily replaced.
just make sure everything works in it... make sure there are no warning lights up on the dash etc... especially the airbag or check engine light
if it has electric windows then wind them fully down and listen for a bang at the bottom. If they bang or are really abrupt then they will need
replacement regulators.
Check that correct servicing has been done including the timing belt,water pump and idler. If done by a dealershp these can be quite expensive and
some owners don't do it.
Depending upon where you are buying it from I would check for hail damage (if in victoria) or water damage (nth nsw/qld) etc.
hth
what are you talking about this is the new beetle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgQr_A_99XU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtxcF8fQmtE&feature=related
we had a 2.0 beetle for over 180,000.
Never broke down! Swiss watch
Ran on 91
BUT.... the 2.0 is infamous for using oil via valve guide seals... google it!
Ours needed 500ml to 1 litre every 6000 to 8000kms, this is 'normal'
YIKES
that is a lot of OIL...
so, You really need to check Your OIL every 500 kilometres
as I read recently..
Does Your manual say its OK on 91 octane????
and was that with ethanol?? or without??
LEE
That is the NEW NEW Beetle ... lol
LEE
looks different.. more porscheish...
maybe should drop the beetle name now...???
| Quote: |