Do you use sealant on the oil screen gaskets?.
There seems to be two schools of thought.

One option is to fit them without, because of problems removing them next time, and the cleanup is a PITA.
They can also be reused if fitted without sealant, but the good book says a new gasket and washers should be used every time anyway.

The downside of no sealant is that they invariably leak.
I tried a new sump plate but it was rather flimsy and it leaked worse.

So I gooped it up plenty with Permatex 3H sealant and no oil is leaking at all.
This is the way I like it, although there are those who will argue that this is unnatural!

I am looking forward to your thoughts.

Phil.

Gaskets are one use only as they compress when you do them up, the next issue is with the migration of oil through the gasket itself, the edge is exposed to the oil so you can try and paint your sealant on the inside edge, this should seal the inside edge and probably slow down the oil seaping through the gasket, i purchased a jaycee sump plate from pierside parts for $39.00 that is oringed around the stud holes and around the circumfrence, not a leak. all the other aluminium sump plates still rely on the gaskets to seal,

You have a point, Lee, about the oil leaking through the threads.
Come to think of it, the problems I have experienced have usually been on engines with studs that either come out instead
of staying put, or have been replaced with bolts.
So if these threads are flogged out (most likely) then the oil is going to travel down them.
Can only make things worse.
Loctite may be the answer.
Trying to clean up the threads and loctite them in is going to be near impossible with the engine in.

Loctite the studs for sure, and use factory nuts that cover the stud. Saying that, I don't use sealer and inevitably they leak, but the cleanup is def a pita if sealer is used.

Shayne's option is the best with the JayCee O-ringed plate

We almost never have leaks, at the plate anyway, often using only a light even smear of H.T. (non-melting) wheel bearing grease on the gaskets, also a little on the stud threads.

and make sure your plate is flat most of them have had a bump or 2!

The plate will often have 'bumps', where the nuts have pushed up around the holes - usually from over-tightening. You can tap these down flat with a hammer [carefully], and make sure the nuts are not over-tightened, and do what BRUTUS says ^.

yep tap the plate flat and dont use any sealer
make sure you use the acorn nuts with the copper gaskets as well

Even with the jaycee plate you will still need to use the copper washers on the studs as the oil will still migrate down the stud.

I clean out the stud threads with degreaser and cotton buds and the studs themselves and then use a fluid barrier loctite on the threads.

Then I make up the gaskets from thicker gasket material or even a corn flakes packet will work well.

Never had a leak after this as the thicker gasket has more gap filling ability than the normal thin paper ones

I never use sealant and mine doesn't leak. Use good quality gasket sets with the copper washers and a nice flat original steel sump plate and you should be fine. I can even get away with reusing the gaskets once or twice and still have no leaks. I have at least two or three helicoiled sump plate studs, so the case isn't immaculate either. I smear engine oil on my gaskets during assembly, rather than grease.