Hey guys. Just wondering what your thoughts are on remote oil filters for a daily driver? Getting my 1835cc (twin webbers, mild cam, blah blah blah) put in this week and after a bit of reading i was thinking about getting an oil filter put in.

Thoughts?

I live in Brisbane and do mostly highway driving. generally i don't drive like a maniac but why else would i go for a bigger motor if i wasn't going to stick the boot in every once in a while? my mechanic recon's it's not really necessary, and i trust him coz he's always done the right thing by me, but wanted to get a few more opinions.

Cheers,
Farhan

its just about the best thing You can do to Your VW type 1 engine...

nice filtered clean oil.. ALL the time...

Go for it.. can make Your engine last longer..

LEE

There a good idea imo. While your at it you could plumb in an oil cooler too.

Any engine will benefit from installation of a remote filter, bearings and internals will last longer as the oil will be cleaner

Can't remember the last vw motor that i have had without one

they are great, just leak a little ....

I think the advice you are receiving is wrong, a full flow filter should be included in any engine rebuild if you want to get the maxium life from it, i could not upload the pages because of the size but this following text is from "How to hot rod vw engines".
OI L FILTERS
When the engine is being modified use a large full-flow
oil filter mounted near the engine. It will
give added oil capacity along with filtering
The easiest full-flow filters to adapt are
those made by Ford. Oil-filter adapter
Part No. C3AZ-6881A used on the 427
engines has threaded holes for the oil-prer
sure sender and it is easily adapted to a
Fram HPK6 with ll2-pipe-threaded openings.
Or use a one-piecefilter base wiith
tapped holes. These are made by ACE,
Fram and Transdapt.
Hoses to and from the oil filter must have
a minimum inside diameter of l/2-inch.
This inside diameter is essential to avoid
oil starvation when the oil is cold. Avoid
interference with the fan belt and crank
pulley. Arrange the hoses so that they do
not have to be removed to install a new
fan belt. Keep the hoses short.
It is very important to use hoses designed for oil
service. They must be specified for long
life at temperaturesto 350F or so.
Aero-Quip braided-steel-covered hoses is
possibly the best you can purchase for
use with an external full-flow filter or
for plumbing to a remote oil cooler.
This hose,and non-sheathed hoses for
oil service,will be available at firms specializingin
aircraft or truck components Royal Brass in SanJose, California has always had the pieces-and good advice-
I've needed for such installations.
FULL.FLOW OIL FILTER
Because the stock VW comes with no oil filter, installing a
full-flow filter may seem needlessly costly.
Simple machine work is also required, so
many owners are tempted to shrug their
shoulders and say that they will get to this
kind of problem later in the day-year-or
some other time. Do it now if you are
planning to race-unless your pocketbook
is bottomless and you enjoy buying new
parts and assembling an engine every
week-end.
So, what's so great about a fullflow
filter and why should you have one?
Full-flow oil filters reduce engine wear up
to 66%! Ford Motor Company, which has
used full-flow filters in most of their
engines for many years, published some
startling comparisons of the wear reductions
which can be expected when a fullflow
filter is used instead of a by-pass-type
filter. In an SAE paper published in the
1950's, Ford showed reductions of 50%
in crankshaft wear, 66 percent in wrist-pin wear
19% in cylinder-wall wear and 52% in ring
wear.
The vw engine,like many other engines
which have been converted for high performance,
suffers from a bad case of
"quick death" when run at high horsepower
output without a full-flow oil
filter. Much of the engine wear occurs
from dirt or particles of metal which are
seldom completely removed from the
engine when it is first built or overhauled.
Some of the engine wear comes from wear
products-bearing particles, pieces off of
the camshaft or lifters, minute bits of carbon
which somehow manage to get past
the rings, and tiny chunks of aluminum
which are worn off of the head or valvespring
retainers by the valve-springs
(especially when the valve springs are
seated directly against the aluminum surface
of the head-instead of against shims
as is correct procedure). When these are
recirculated through the engine with the
oil, additional wear is caused, adding to
the quantity of unwanted junk in the oil
on a continually increasing basis so that
the oil becomes a carrier of wear-producing
material instead of a flow of life sustaining lubricant.
InstallingT he Full-FlowF ilter- The machine work mentioned in the beginning
of this discussionis quite simple. The end
of the oil gallery in the left crankcase
half is opened by drilling through the
aluminum plug and twisting this out with
an EZY -OUT broken-screw remover,or
you can thread a long bolt (with a sliding
knocker) into the plug and knock it out.
Drill the end of the gallery 1 1/2 in. deep
with a 9/ l6-inch drill. Tap the gallery
with a 3/8 NPT (pipe thread) tap, using
the fitting which will be threaded into
the gallery as a guide. Keep taking out
the tap and screwing in the fitting after
you have made a thread or two.
Don't get the tapered
pipe thread so deep that the fitting
bottoms against the crankcase surface.
The fitting must screw in solidly without
bottoming its hex-nut surface against the
crankcase. The oil from the full-flow filter
will enter the engine at this tapped end of
the main oil gallery.

Hi

You can also use a filter pump but these can fowl on the exhaust etc or you can also buy an oil pump with two outlets on the cover.

Steve

I fabricated the one on my Ghia using a slant 6 valiant oil filter bracket as these were readily available and there wasn't many available then,this uses a Z9 oil filter which gives another 1/2 litre oil capacity.it has worked well for a lot of years.

This "full flowing" i wouldn't do it myself... is it a difficult / labour intensive job? it seems like it. maybe overkill for just a daily driver? i'm getting a csp python exhaust also. would one of those oil pump / filters work with one of those?

As you still asked if it is a over kill i do not think you have read the above text, Simply it reduces wear on your engine by 66 percent, that is enough to warrant it's installation, at start up all the junk in the engine that is in there from the rebuild that fits through the sump strainer will end up in your bearing's/engine, if your engine builder tells you it is not necessary it is probably because the engine is already together and this is a bit of a problem as far as keeping the swarf out when you drill the main gallery, but it can be done and i have completed this job a few times with the engine assembled, i did not think that any engine builder would leave the filter out, it's far more important than the CSP exhaust, ask the people supplying the exhaust if a filter pump will fit otherwise get a cheaper exhaust and fit the external filter.

Overkill....????

It has nothing to do with level of performance.

If you want maximum longevety from your expensive new motor, fit a full flow oil system. IMO not the in/out pump style, the oil galleries are not large enough.

It is not a labour intensive job, the only labour is to drill and tap one hole in the block and modify the oil pump, about 30-50 dollars, plus the parts and fittings.


Buy quality fittings cheap here...http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=99084

Modern high-detergent oils are designed to clean all the 'crap' from the engine, and transfer it to the filter. If there is NO filter, it just goes round and round, getting dirtier, and taking all the rubbish through the bearings, etc. Get the picture?

now i'm at home i read what you posted carefully vwo60 (writing was too small and annoying reading it on my phone so i gave up). yeah i see where you guys are coming from. the collective wisdom of the forum can't be denied i'll get a full flow filter put in. longevity is definitely what i'm after. plus a little extra oil in the system couldn't hurt.

How did the original beetle engines get away without one?

Your mechanic has failed to give you the correct advice on something that should be installed at the first oportunity.

Why don't you use oil pump which has in and out barbs for filter in the pump cover and does not require any work on the case? No drilling, no tapping, anybody with two left hands can do it...

My mechanic is trying to stop my wife from killing me lol.... with the budget going up and out of control he was just trying to save me some coin.... who needs money anyway? i wish i had a little more technical know how though.... any suggestions on "how to" guides other than the haynes? a mechanic is only one opinion though which is why i asked you guys.

the more i ask the more i learn..... and then better decisions i can eventually make for myself

The other alternative without needing case maching is get a oil filter pump... the oil pump casing houses the oil filter, and is a whopping $58!

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-5385 

Kapeesh

I am running the in out style pump and seems to be all running fine, Bernie Berman motors run this style pump standard set up. and out of the 3 engines i have been playing with they seem all to work quite well.

here is a diagram for reference

Quote:

Originally posted by cb john No drilling, no tapping, anybody with two left hands can do it...

Greg, this is a hard one.. I guess it's about seven..

with a filter system what sort of interval do you need for oil and filter change?

i was changing the oil every 1500 - 2000 miles in my stock engine

3000ml or 5000km, you may have cleaner oil but your valves and other adjustments are still required.

yeah i do the valves every time i do the oill