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Are these legal?

psimitar - December 17th, 2012 at 11:00 PM

Just wondering if this is ADR compliant?

Wheel stud kit

Be handy on wide 5 VW's

HappyDaze - December 18th, 2012 at 06:08 AM

Wide 5 studs are M12, those are M14. You would need to re-tap the drums and make sure you had 20 studs, not 16.

dragsters for life - December 18th, 2012 at 06:09 AM

i run studs on my late notch

h - December 18th, 2012 at 06:29 AM

I had studs on my beach buggy when I got it
thought they were ok until the back wheel spat em off on a short run up to a vw neighbors place
I stopped just in time as the wheel detached from the drum and sat luckily upright under the f'glass body as not to crash down into the road
a little scary I must say :grind:
found the nuts up the street got it going again, got it home and studs n nuts outta there
haven't had the same problem with the wheel bolts..
still a little paranoid tho :crazy:

matberry - December 18th, 2012 at 07:36 AM

No they are not legal and they are not safe. The stud can come loose and sometimes gets stuck in the nut and can come out of propper engagement in the drum and then strip the threads. All proper studs have a head on the back that can not pull through the threads under any circumstances.

Joel - December 18th, 2012 at 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by HappyDaze
Wide 5 studs are M12, those are M14. You would need to re-tap the drums and make sure you had 20 studs, not 16.

You can get step studs, but the other way though.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20-WHEEL-STUDS-FOR-OLDER-VWs-CONVERTS-14X1-5mm-TO-...

I'm with Matt, I wouldn't trust those one bit.
I wouldn't use anything without a shoulder on the back to stop them undoing.

Brakes can get pretty toasty which weakens the loctite over time till eventually it lets go, I;ve seen a few of those unscrew out with the wheel nuts.

68BUS - December 18th, 2012 at 09:41 AM

Normal wheel bolts are not that bad. I just do one pretty much the whole way then rotate the drum around till I can slip the second in and so on.
Was difficult the first time until I figured that way out.

HappyDaze - December 18th, 2012 at 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Joel

Quote:

Originally posted by HappyDaze
Wide 5 studs are M12, those are M14. You would need to re-tap the drums and make sure you had 20 studs, not 16.

Those studs seem arse-about to me. :!:

I wouldn't use studs without a shoulder either, particularly ones that are plated - hydrogen embrittlement worries.

vwo60 - December 18th, 2012 at 01:08 PM

If the stud has a full thread engagement in the drum or rotor and the stud is a equal grade as the original bolt then there would be no difference with the load that they will handle, you can get grades of loctite that will not get affected by the heat, i have had to remove this type of stud that had been on the car for several years that was fitted using super retaining compound and they took some shifting, as for the legallity i have no idea but there are plenty of wheel places selling this type of stud, the best type to use as stated are the shoulded studs, but are these legal if they are from the after market as well. the other issue with the screw in stud is the material that the are screwing into, cast iron, not exactly a high tensile material, you should always torque your wheel studs.

snitz - December 18th, 2012 at 01:20 PM

You could always contact Richard Holzl since he is the seller of the wheel studs..maybe he can tell you where he sources them from,The type of material they are made from etc.
He would probably be more qualified to answer any questions or queries regarding these studs than anyone commenting here.. :cool:

SebastienPeek - December 18th, 2012 at 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by snitz
You could always contact Richard Holzl since he is the seller of the wheel studs..maybe he can tell you where he sources them from,The type of material they are made from etc.
He would probably be more qualified to answer any questions or queries regarding these studs than anyone commenting here.. :cool:

Well said.

1303Steve - December 18th, 2012 at 03:21 PM

Hi

I've used similar in the past, only I used high tensile steel M14 rod that I had parted off to the correct length, never had a issue.

Steve

vlad01 - December 18th, 2012 at 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by matberry
No they are not legal and they are not safe. The stud can come loose and sometimes gets stuck in the nut and can come out of propper engagement in the drum and then strip the threads. All proper studs have a head on the back that can not pull through the threads under any circumstances.

press in studs.

helbus - December 18th, 2012 at 10:08 PM

Blank drums fitted with press in studs would be legal, so why not do it that way?

Any engineered vehicle using billet axles and new press in studs is the way to pass VSB14.

psimitar - December 18th, 2012 at 11:00 PM

Quote:

This is what I was thinking but wanted the verdict from those with more experience.

psimitar - December 18th, 2012 at 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by helbus
Blank drums fitted with press in studs would be legal, so why not do it that way?

Any engineered vehicle using billet axles and new press in studs is the way to pass VSB14.

Hmm, what is the minimum thickness of steel and aluminium that a press in stud can be installed in?

psimitar - December 18th, 2012 at 11:13 PM

Quote:

No offence but I generally find those selling an item will only sing it's praises as they wish to make a sale.

It's like asking someone at Harvey Norman a question about an item. They just want your wonga

helbus - December 18th, 2012 at 11:40 PM

I just measured 10 axles and the flange was between 9.58 and 10.36mm.

I assume if the manufacturer of the above mentioned axles was able to sell about 5 million vehicles with 2 per vehicle, then those thickness's would be within specifications. Especially suitable for a Beetle considering the above mentioned are vehicles weighing up to 1400kg and have up to 280hp engines.

1303Steve - December 19th, 2012 at 07:26 AM

Hi

These are sold by Nice products, they sell thousands of studs and nuts, maybe contact them. http://www.niceproducts.com.au/

Steve

psimitar - December 19th, 2012 at 11:21 PM

Cool. Thanks for the replies guys

barls - December 22nd, 2012 at 08:17 AM

i used these ones with no problem. i used lock tight when i put them in and thats where they stayed till i changed stud pattern 3 or 4 years later. all the problems matt mentioned can also happen with the stock bolts might i point out.

matberry - December 22nd, 2012 at 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by barls
the problems matt mentioned can also happen with the stock bolts might i point out.

I don't think so.
The stud can unknowingly work it's way into the nut upon removal/reinstallation and so not continuue to have 1.5xD thread engagement, therefore raising the chance of stripping the thread. Stock bolt always has enough thread (if used with the factory wheel) and factory studs have a head on the back so they definately can't move either.

Bizarre - December 22nd, 2012 at 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by psimitar
Just wondering if this is ADR compliant?

Next to nothing aftermarket is ADR complient

I would have thought to call Richard and talk to him would have been the best option

and yes, I am running these :tu:

psimitar - December 23rd, 2012 at 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bizarre

Quote:

Originally posted by psimitar
Just wondering if this is ADR compliant?

Next to nothing aftermarket is ADR complient

I would have thought to call Richard and talk to him would have been the best option

and yes, I am running these :tu:

Well I suppose the more correct question then is 'would these be signed off by an engineer?'

I've seen them used on CSP products and they are the much better TUV approval but do admit I prefer the security of the press in studs. Tho the CSP use shouldered studs and are torqued to 34lbft. Down side to press in is having to allow that extra few mm clearance for the stud head.