Hi Guys

This is a new thread to document the project that I have started in order to rebuild/renew/restore the 1916cc engine in the car in order to solve the problem I had with high oil temperature. Here is the link to the old thread ( http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=100629&page=1 ).

I have just pulled the motor and stripped off all of the tinware and there is quite a bit missing that I will document over the next few days. Also, the tinware was not fitted correctly and absolutely all of the screws were either loose or finger tight....not very good.

I am pretty sure also that the rear engine oil seal is leaking (see the attached photo) and the engine mounts are stuffed (see attached photo) so these will be changed as part of the project.

I will also be fitting a late model engine seal to ensure a better fit of the tinware with the engine compartment.

This is going to be a fun project!

Regards
Greg

Also, the inside of the plenum is full of "gunk". Injector ports are also suspect.

Regards
Greg

pull down and rebuild looks like a good move Greg.

Hi Craig

Yeah, I don't want to waste time and want to do things once and once only.

Regards
Greg

That looks disturbingly like oil in the inlet.... Your breather likely vents back to there (which is fine) if it is blowing by the rings this could explain it....

Yep,

I'm planning to take the engine to Rod Penrose so that he can strip it down to we can see what's inside and if there are any hidden "nasties"....

I'll be going genuine German all of the way if possible.


Regards
Greg

Hi guys

I need to replace the transmission mounts ideally without removing the gearbox.

The car is currently up on stands...is it a simple matter of just undoing the mounts, jacking up the gearbox to get some clearance and then slipping in the new mounts?

oh, it looks as though the axle boots are leaking a bit so I also need to replace them....any simple techniques or tips?

Thanks guys

Regards
Greg

Get Rod to put a stroker crank in it while its apart.....nothing like a few more cc's !!!

Hi Craig

I'll be going to see Rod over the weekend and having a chat with him. The first thing he's going to do is to strip down the engine and see what's inside and if there are any problems and we'll see what happens from there.

Regards
Greg

Engine mounts.... Undo those 2 big nuts as well to remove cradle

Thanks Daimo

I assume I should use a trolley jack to support the gearbox whilst I remove the cradle?

Thanks mate

I need to thoroughly clean the inside and outside of the plenum, throttle body and manifolds. What's the best stuff to use that won't damage the alloy? Normal carburetor cleaner or something else?

I'm also thinking that as I'm going to get the new Vintage Speed exhaust ceramic coated in silver that I would also get the plenum and manifolds done at the same time. Is this going to cause any issues or problem such as make them "hotter" or "cooler"?

Regards
Greg

Hi Guys

Time for an update.

I took the motor to Rod Penrose so that he could strip it down and see if there are any issues. i spoke to rod today and he is going to email me a report of what he found and any suggestions.

I have fitted the new gearbox banana mounts using Kombi heavy duty mounts and nyloc nuts and at the same time fitted a late model engine seal. (see attached photos).

I have also purchased some other bits and pieces from CIP1 (ie: SR15N starter motor, some tools, tinware bits and steering bushes) and also a Vintage Speed 38mm exhaust from VVDS.

All of the EFI hardware has been cleaned and I have sent the injectors to Australian Fuel Injectors for a service and flow testing and hope to have them back sometime this week.

The next thing I need to do is to check over the wiring harness for the ECU etc as it's bit of a "bag of spaghetti". There seems to be a number of phantom wires that don't plug into anything

Anyway, that's the update and I'm looking forward to getting the car back together.

Regards
Greg

Vintage Speed Exhaust

Update: I sent the injectors away to AFI to be flowed and serviced and for the coil to be checked. I got them back today. The injectors were flowed/rated at 71. I also decided to get some new injector connector clips as a few of the existing clips were missing the locking springs. I also got a new air temp sensor and TPS as the plastic housing of the TPS was broken. I'm planning to trace and label all of the ECU wiring harness and test it to make sure everything is 100%. I've decide to have a cylinder head temp sensor installed and connected to the ECU and just need to figure out which one is appropriate. ( http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/search2?location=shop&method=match_al...). Anyway, that's it for the moment.

Regards
Greg

Update: I have spent the day tracing the ECU wiring harness and fabricating a heat shield for behind the rear beaver panel as I am a bit paranoid about any heat damage happening when the new motor and Vintage Speed exhaust is fitted.

I also discovered that the wires to the pins of the Oil Temp Sensor were not really connected! I'm planning on fitting new connectors to the injectors and a few of the "suspect" connections.

There was also a few "redundant" pieces of wire that have now been removed.

Oh, and the new SR15N starter motor has also been installed.

I've posted a few photos..

Regards
Greg

What was Rod's findings with the motor ?

Hi Craig

I'm catching up with him on Monday to have a chat about the status of everything and to discuss what we do with the motor.

Unless there is something wrong with the case etc, I'm planning to spend a bit of money on the existing motor and get it back in the car so that I can start to enjoy driving the thing!

I'll know more after Monday and will let you know what the story is....

Do you have any suggestions?

Regards
Greg

Looking good Greg - love the exhaust !

Thanks mate

Update: I have been using my old motor for mockup so that I can get some idea of how everything is going to fit whilst Rod is sunning himself whilst on holiday

Anyway, the first issue is that the Vintage Speed muffler is hitting the internal seam of the rear beaver panel. (see attached photo). I measured from the centre of the case to the inside edge of the sheetmetal where the engine seal is fitted and the left side is 8mm narrower than the right side...so that accounts for the clearance issue.

I elongated the flange holes a bit but there is still a clearance problem. I spoke to MT at Vintage Speed just to make sure that I can cut off the top corners and he confirmed that there would not be a problem.

I will wait until I have my hands on the new motor before we go into major surgery


Oh, I have also managed to get a Cylinder Head Temp Sensor that will be installed into the head near # 3 and connected to the ECU ( http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/vw/022906041.html ) that will be used instead of the Oil Temp sensor for cold starts.

Regards
Greg
Regards
Greg

Update:

After driving Rod nuts over the previous few weeks, I've decided to have Rod build a new 2054cc motor and to move away from EFI and install dual carbies.

The main reason for this is due to the simplicity of the setup/configuration of the carbies compared to EFI and the cost. It will also enable Rod to completely setup the motor, tinware, carbies etc at his workshop so that all I will need to do is to "plug" take the completed motor and ancillary bits and pieces and install it into my car. This will also enable me to get the car on the road as soon as possible and to run it in properly.

I may decide to either sell off the entire EFI system hardware (ECU, manifolds, plenum, crank trigger etc) or keep it in the car with the view of reinstating it at some later stage............

Over the next week I will be attempting to move the body over on the chassis to adjust for the 10mm difference.

Regards
Greg

Update:

Well, it's been a very busy few weeks as I have been working on tracking down and fixing a leak in the gear box and other stuff prior to installing the new motor.

Here is a list of what's been done:

1. Gear box leak - oil was basically streaming out of a leak from the axle tube retainer plate. Once the gearbox was pulled out and the tube retainer plate removed it was clear that the reason was because the "O" ring was missing and that there was some rust between the 2 mating pieces. (see photo). I cleaned up the rust, thoroughly cleaned the area with Loctite cleaner and used Loctite Black Maxx to create a bead around the rim where the "O" ring sits. (I discussed the issue with a Loctite Technical guy who surprisingly knew about VW Beetle axle tubes!). These "O" rings are not available and do NOT come in the standard gearbox gasket kits that are sold around the traps. I also replaced the axle boot at the same time. The axle bearing gasket and "O" rings where also replaced.

2. When the gearbox was out I noticed a number of gaps in a few locations where the body meets the chassis so I sealed them up with some Sikaflex. Also, the front nose cone boot of the gearbox was missing...so a new boot was fitted.

3. The clutch cable will also need to be replaced as the existing cable appears to be too long as there is a think spacer nut under the wing nut that I assume has been used to take up the slack. I will need to pull the cable to get the correct length.

4. Moving the body to the left - this has been done and the motor now sits in the centre addressing the clearance issue I had. I also used my Dremel to remove some "dags" of body metal where it was possibly going to hit the Vintage exhaust muffler.

5. Reversing light - as the car has a 1974 gearbox, I decided to fit and wire up the revering light switch.

6. Tracing wiring - whilst this has been a frustrating and lengthy process due to the removing of the EFI harness and the fact that a wire would start as blue at the front of the car and go through 2 colour changes before ending up as a grey wire at the rear of the car, it needed to be done.

7. Mocking up - I still have the original motor and have been using it for mocking up to make sure that the new motor will fit with minimal stress and to allow me to rewire the car for the ignition and gauge sender setup. I will also be rewiring the alarm system to make sure that all is well.

8. New electric fuel pump - I'm fitting a new Carter electric pump where the old EFI pump was located under the fuel tank. At this stage I will be leaving the 3/8" aluminum tube that runs from the front to the rear and using a brass "step down" connector I made using some connectors from ENZED to step down to 5/16". (see photo).

9. External Oil cooler with fan - I decided to fit a small fan operated external oil cooler up under the rear near the gearbox just in case the new motor needs it.

Well, that's about it. There are a lot of little things on my list of stuff to do and I'm looking forward to getting the car back on the road sometime over the new 2 weeks.

I am waiting on stuff to arrive from CB and Pierside and I am hoping both will come by the end of next week.

Regards
Greg

Update:

Here are a few photos of the car with the mockup motor installed with the exhaust so that I can run the necessary ignition and sender wiring.

Regards
Greg

How it going , you must be out driving it by now.???

Hi Ian,

I just got the motor back from Rod on Friday.

We spent the morning on the Dyno and it looks, sounds and goes (on the dyno) great!

I started installing it in the car today and hope to have it on the road either late Sunday or Monday and can't wait to drive it.

I'm taking my time with the installation as there is a lot of new wiring that needs to be terminated and checked before firing up the motor.

I'll post some photos when it's finished and going...here's what it looks like so far.

Regards
Greg

Hi guys

I have finished the installation and setup of the new motor and everything has gone really well. All of the wiring is working and the car started first try!

Sensational!

Today I went for a long drive down to Rod's so that we can do a little bit of "tweaking" and the car went beautifully!

During the installation, I noticed that I was not getting full throttle with the carbs as the accelerator pedal was not providing enough travel.

I have a question, is there a replacement longer linkage bar available perhaps or is there an adjustable linkage bar replacement available or will I need to make one up?

Regards
Greg