Was driving today and my engine has developed a high pitched squeak.
I will say squeak not squeal as it is short sharp rev based noise.
It "seems" to be coming from underneath on 3/4 side.
I will say seem as I have just come back from a site inspection in good clothes and ain't going climbing under cars just yet.
Drives fine and no loss of power.
Any idea before I get home?
Barry
Loose tinware, check the cylinder air deflectors above the pushrod tubes. Could have popped out at one end. Look for loose screws, rubbing metal.
could be an intake leak if its an ocasional chirp, possibly alternator if it changes with revs
Don't be a wimp Baz,play with danger, climb under and have a look ignore the grime. Someone else will do the washing.
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Doubt it would be a dented pushrod tube making noise from a push rod rubbing as your tin should protect the push rods from any rocks and debris, but wouldn't hurt to put that thought out there.
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I seem to recall having a similar problem and it was the incorrect base gaskets on the Dells.
If they are loose this can occur too.
Make sure that the carbs and manifolds are tight,
and also for lose tinware, as suggested above.
vvds
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delaminated mainifold gasket
All good
thanks for all the tips
Thought it would be
You use the standard metal gaskets?
No. It was a paper one
I have put a metal one on with hi temp silicon gasket goo
Out of interest, what gaskets do others use??
I was told originally to stay away from the metal ones.
Now I have been told to stay away from the paper ones.
As said, I am now using metal with a hi temp gasket goo stuff.
Still, the problem was my fault.
I have had so much trouble over the years running Dells and living outside 24/7, I have had to pull the carbs all the time to get the crap out.
Having the paper ones there, I just pulled and replaced the manifolds. The gaskets looked fine.
I have fixed the water problem now with a rear louvre thing for the engine lid and some turbo tops for the carbs.
Been through some horrible down pours lately and no more problems.
So hopefully, after many years, I am fine
Yes, I have had the same confusing responses to the paper/metal gasket question.
Each camp believes the other one wrong.
And there is the question of sealant too.
Some say do not use sealant at all, some say it's a must.
Blowed if I know!
Either way, I think the most important thing before fitting manifolds is making sure the gasket surface is true.
Tape some wet and dry paper (400 grit or so will do) to a flat sheet of glass.
Mix a solution of kero and oil and put some on the paper.
Rub the gasket surface in a figure 8 until you see a consistent finish.
Phil.
Hi Barry
I'm getting my sons car ready to drive to Sawtell and it was occasionally idling high.
I found the gaskets under the manifolds had broken up.
The ones I had used had two massive holes in them for a locating dowel that VW did away with years ago, got some good ones from VVDS.
Steve
VVDS sold my sold the steel ones
Whatever - going better than ever now
not keen on steel ones
Be careful with gasket goo, make sure its fuel stable.
Selleys gasket marker dissolves when exposed to fuel vapour. I 'made do' with a good glob on some stock DP manifold boot cracks, within a week the
vac leak was back, and the goo just dissolved/melted off from the fuel. The instructions don't say its fuel stable or not, but that one in particular
wasn't.
I use metal gaskets with good quality goo (Wurth flange sealant orange or Loctite Master Gasket flange sealant 515) ON STANDARD manifolds , the thick grafite paper gaskets with no goo on mild ported heads and no gasket just the goo on performance applications. I've been using sealant only for about 3 years with no issues, even where the sealing area is down to 2-3mm.
Hi
These gaskets have been on for the heads for a long time. The good thing about not using goo was that once removed the surface on the head was clean.
I would rather change a gasket every few years.
Steve
I agree Steve, with a paper gasket the cleaning is an issue, but goo only (and using the right products) the head and manifold are easy to clean and reseal if removed for maintenance.