May be a dumb question but i guess only to people that know the answer.

I have a 1963 beetle floor and shell (link pin front end) I brought a new narrowed front beam to bolt in but it looks like it's not high enough. photos below to explain. I have tried to measure the opening on the floor were the front end bolts on and compared it to my 1967 floor i have and it looks higher. I have a feeling the floors are different between 1963 and 1967. does anyone know if this is the case?

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woah! Ball joint beams are different height to link pin. (post 68')

I believe there may be a mix up in what you have been supplied.

I really think the floor is different to my other floors, I will have another look today and post my findings. I have down the back a 1967, 1965 & 1964 floor. I also have 2 other link pin standard front ends. I will take notes of all and try and work out what is incorrect.

All link pin beetles left the factory with the same spacing between the torsion bar housings . Balljoint beams are wider apart.

Maybe someone swapped your pan and put on the older body (usually for the old skool styling with the mod con running gear from the younger pan).

Alternatively, maybe in the past life it had a front end bingle, and they replaced the frame head, but welded on a ball joint frame head (which allows for stock ball joint beams and hence stock disc brakes).

Pure speculation... just putting thoughts out there

Chris, right on the money buddy. i will post some photos

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Well Chris, I feel like a bum shit now. I sandblasted this floor and painted it. I did notice the welding but I didn’t think too much about it. (I had totally forgot about it - thinking it just must have been the way they done things back then). Now it all makes sense.

So what now I ask myself???

so am I now chasing an adjustable 2" narrowed ball joint front beam complete with lowered drop spindles and brake callipers???
shocks are prob different too?

I have only ever played with link pin stuff. if steering box and tie rods different also?
(PS would love disk brakes - drum is not very good - lol)

Definately some questionable work going on there, but the crux of your situation seems to be you have a ball-joint frame-head fitted ti that pan and your trying to fit a link-pin beam. Both beams have the top tube in the same location relative to the body, just the ball-joint beam has the lower tube some 20mm or so lower.

So what beam did you have in it before ?

it had a standard link pin but was never driven. the guy had 3 beetles and made 1 from the 3. this is the history from the guy i brought it from (not the shell i am using - i only used this floor because it was a 1963 and my shell is 63 - it was rust free) the floor i was going to use was a 1967 i repaired all the rust and painted, only changed at the last min to keep years the same. shot myself in the foot.

so can some one fill me in re: what i will need to get hold off to convert to ball joint...eg...brake master cylinder..will it be different due to disk brakes? etc etc etc

There's variables as to what is your best plan of attack, like what engine, ride height wheels etc etc
For something to 'bolt in' it APPEARS your will need a ball joint front end. They come in disc or drum depending on the model and your master cylinder concerns are relivant to any combo, it needs to be based on what brakes you have, but upgrading to dual circuit is a good saftey measure no matter what you have but you need to have suspension first

Start with your desired 'look' of the car, stance, wheels, level of performance etc....then you might make better decisions at this early stage....my 2c

Good advice there from Matt, novasmic....more than 2c worth.

In fact it's more like 4c, or even up to 5c worth there.

well the biggest question i have is this. I have empi 15" 5.5 rims i need to know if the disk brake bolt patten will be the same.
I would like the car to sit so you can just slide your fingers on top of the tyre like i have it now in the photo.

And you still have that set-up, (beam, brakes, wheels etc) which is on a link-pin beam???

If yes, change the frame-head of the pan to link-pin. Not an easy job, but best option IMO.

might be a good idea-option. only if the original one is underneeth the one thats been welded on. If i can get in and cut off the newer one. i agree it would be the best option. I might pull the tank out tomorrow and have a closer look.

If i can confirm all i need to do is cut off the new one thats what i will do...

Thanks for your input. again didnt think of doing that. I think thats one of the best reasons for using a forum. looking at every angle.

Thanks again.

I will let you know how i go....

All done...only a little plate on the lower part of the front end to remove not a very big job. best option and the cheapest one.