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Issue assembling crank distributor drive gear
Camo - April 13th, 2014 at 07:31 PM

Hi all,

Just had the new crank in freezer, cam gear and spacer in oven and fitted them. The issue I have is in measuring the brass distributor gear and lock ring, it is wider then the available space.

Yes, I have the cam gear on the correct way with marks facing pulley end and yes they appear to be home tight on their seats.

My Brass distributor drive is 11.3mm thick or 444 thou's of an inch, the locking clip is 2.38mm thick or 93 thou's of an inch.

Can anyone tell me if theirs is the same thickness, and if you were going to reduce either in thickness would you remove it from brass gear or the clip.

I think you may say the spacer, but that is already pressed on :(

I can't find any dimensions on the net re the brass gear thickness, hence why I am asking.

Thanks for you thoughts and feedback, Kev

EDIT: This is a Scat crank and Scat kit that I have.

shokwave2 - April 13th, 2014 at 07:52 PM

Always modify the cheapest part.

Camo - April 13th, 2014 at 08:36 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by shokwave2

Always modify the cheapest part.


I like that :lol:

matberry - April 13th, 2014 at 09:20 PM

Just measured one at 11.17 Kev. Unfortunately I don't have many lying around as I always am using the old German ones as quickly as I get them.

Camo - April 13th, 2014 at 09:32 PM

Thanks Mat, sounds like everyone prefers a lot of the original German parts :yes:

Your drive is about 0.15mm difference to mine and someone else told me there clip is about 0.3mm thinner than mine. That's .45mm and I am needing to reduce by 0.5mm, so it all adds up. The gear drive, spacer and brass drive are all interference fit, so I guess if I take my clip down 0.5mm it should all stay together ok.

Thanks for that, Kev

matberry - April 13th, 2014 at 09:44 PM

Did you dress/debur your gears, if not, it might be wise and take the gear and spacer off and give thier faces a dress on a flat glass with 1200 paper. I would personally leave the clip except for deburring, and work the brass gear a little more if necessary. The drive runs on the middle of the gear so shouldn't be an issue.

Camo - April 14th, 2014 at 08:30 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by matberry

Did you dress/debur your gears, if not, it might be wise and take the gear and spacer off and give thier faces a dress on a flat glass with 1200 paper. I would personally leave the clip except for deburring, and work the brass gear a little more if necessary. The drive runs on the middle of the gear so shouldn't be an issue.


Hi Mat,

this would mean I have to take it somewhere and now get the gear and spacer pressed off. I still find it hard to fathom that everything you buy for a vw needs to be reworked or checked. Not happy Jan :lol:

Thanks heaps for your knowledge, time and experience :tu:

(Still learning) Kev

HappyDaze - April 14th, 2014 at 08:49 AM

Kev, did you ever wonder why it costs so much to have an engine built PROPERLY :?::smirk:

RodPenrose - April 14th, 2014 at 10:07 AM

Kev , make sure that the heated crank gear is seated all the way home . They can creep if you don't hold weight on them until the cool a little . I have never seen an issue with the Scat gear sets yet , however you may be the first . I use these all the time and the fitment is usually pretty good , ROD.

1303Steve - April 14th, 2014 at 10:13 AM

Hi Kev

I have a special puller for the gears if you want to borrow it

Steve

ian.mezz - April 14th, 2014 at 10:46 AM

some shops build a motor, then some times pull them apart after just turning it over to check bearings etc or just do one run and pull down and check clearances etc about 70 hours to build VW performance motor :blush:

vw54 - April 14th, 2014 at 11:53 AM

Yep use origional Volkswagen gears then you wont have any problems