Hi guys, I have a type 3 wagon, automatic.
I had a problem a few months ago when the brakes failed after what felt like the brakes sticking on when getting on the highway... So I replaced all the rubber brake lines and the master cylinder and that sorted the brakes out... Now I don't drive it very often so I thought id get it out and take it for a run up the street before we took it to the vw show on sunday, what I found was it doing exactly the same thing when I was driving up a long hill under load (like the ramp onto the highway) . by about half way up the hill, it just starts losing power, not like the normal VW goes up hills slow power! by the time I got to the top of the hill the car was barely moving... it seems to drive around on the flat ok when not put under too much load for a long period of time. Any ideas?? 1641cc twin carb.

What dizzy do you have? 009 or vacuum advance?

The auto trans is either worn out, or doesn't have enough ATF in it.

Sounds like a fuel issue. Fuel pump rod worn. Fuel filter??
You'll work if out.

so if you maintain it under load, at the same load after a while it will start to loose power?

Does sound like its draining the fuel bowls. You have a stash of fuel to last a little while under load, then it begins to run out while the pump plays catch up.

That's right Chris... But it doesn't start to pop,fart and miss like it's running out of fuel. It just gets slower and slower until it's almost stopped.... You can slip it into neutral and it will free rev just fine.

Checked the ATF and it's fine and clean... I'll check fuel supply next. I think I've got another pump here, I replaced the fuel filter only about 6 months ago and haven't really driven it.

Oh and the dizzy is a 009.

Was the gearbox kicking down to second gear or was it staying in 3rd gear up the hill ???

Gear box was only in 2nd by the the Time I started going up the hill.... I took it for another test drive after replacing the fuel pump and got the same again .. But I noticed the more I drove it, it started piling to the left then got really hard to turn right ... Them the brakes went again as I got home. So I've found the front left caliper is stuck on and not returning. You push the pedal once and it stays on making everything so hot I could barely touch the wheel not could I turn it. I cracked the bleed nipple in order to release it but it didn't budge. The fluid was dead cold?? I then pried the caliper off the disk and spun it freely, then I applied the brakes and it's locked up again. Mc is new, so are the rubber lines. One leaning towards seized caliper but that to me doesn't explain the brakes going to the floor?

Yep sounds like you need to pull the calipers off and apart or get new ones

You might be able to get away with pulling them apart and freeing up the pistons giving it all a good clean use rubber grease when re assembling
make sure you get a solid bit of wire like coat hanger and push it through the fluid galliers as they tend to block up with sludge

The other question is did you bleed the brakes correctly when replacing the master cyclinder and hoses ??

Yeah, they bled up fine. But then again if there was a problem with the caliper all along then maybe not. They worked fine until I made the car really work to get up a hill.... Another question, late type 3 calipers? Mick motors don't have them, are they hard to get? Are they not the same as late beetle ones?

it could have bleed Ok but the psiton dont move very common

yep extreamly hard to find different size to all others

thats why i said strip and rebuild local brake shop may have seals ??? or the old ones usually work if you dont stuff them getting them apart

there is the seal on the piston and 4 small O Rings between the caliper halfs square section from memory

Earlier ~68? to 70 are the smaller callipers (1 bleed valve)(different to Beetle calliper, I think).
71 - 73 are much larger callipers (2 bleed valves), same as Type 4 car of the same era, apparently. We obtained the earlier type new a few years ago, but had to get the larger/later ones re-built more recently (quite successfully), as could not buy new ones at the time.
Have had both types professionally re-co'ed over the years.

Shite, might have to look into that then.

Do you remember what it cost?? I've just had a quote for about $300 worst case... If the pistons need replacing. If not around $220.

Thats cheap even at the $300 , my landcruiser calipers we're that each !!!!!!!!!!
Also keep in mind that these old rides like a REGULAR IE ONCE A WEEK drive , not once every six months Mick , and you will have far LESS break downs as everything is being used and not seizing up .
Yes i realise that you are selling it , but your never gunna sell it while it's a unreliable and or if you do ,you'll be coping abusive phone calls for the next year from the new owner .
Do you also realise that modern day pump fuels are no better than vinigar after about a month , so don't expect old fuel to run as it should either

2 questions.

has your brake pedal push rod got enough play, no play can cause the brakes to build pressure and forcing then to stay on.

the other is, if its actually lacking power and brakes are sorted, when did you last use up all the fuel? unleaded 91 goes off in weeks to few months max and will run the engine like crap if, not at all.

Had this happen personally few times. Not like the fuels of the early 90s and prior, will be just as good 10 years later! 21 years later in my brother's GT lol.

jUST FOR YOUR INFO IT IS COMMON KNOWLEDGE THAT THE AUTO TRANS FLUID SHOULD BE A LITTLE OVERFILLED.

about 2-3mm. When I climb my driveway which is a little steep, if the gears slip a little its time to put in about 300mm of fluid due to leakage which is common.. Better than a gauge anyday.

Well, it did the same thing before I replaced the master cylinder so I'm leaning more towards the caliper being rooted.

Do you have the larger callipers? (twin pin) or the earlier single pin, there are 2 different size discs...

Later twin pin, I've checked the free play in the pedal... theres about 15mm of free play before it even starts to engage the MC. I'm confident its the caliper on that side.

Pull them apart carefully you may get away re using the seals if they dont get damaged getting them out

If the calipers are jamming on, the seals are more than likely to be the issue. they can go hard over the life of a car, normally from lack of fluid changes.

calipers pistons return a fraction of a mm to release the pads, and that it entirely relied on by the flexing of the pistons seals. Seals go hard, pistons do not return back and the brakes drag.

Right, so I got the calipers overhauld.. one was seized, the other was just old. Fixed my brakes but she still wont drive up the hill! turns out it was 2 separate issues all along... we are pretty confident its a fuel supply issue but where?? I have replaced the fuel pump, filter and all the rubber fuel lines... its like the fuel bowls are getting sucked dry. I've checked the needle and seats, they are not leaking nor are they sticky. Anyone have any advise on where to look next?? yes it does have a tank of fairly old fuel in it but I only use 98 and im sure if it was shitty fuel it wouldn't just lose power and stall under load, I would think it would just run like shit all the time.

only one way to FIX a fuel issue

start at the front

Pull tank and clean including filter fill with soapy water and nuts n bolts to remove any internal dirt n crud

check the vent line to see if tank can breath may be blocked

replace rubber flex lines with quality German tubing

blow main fuel line to remove blockages no kinks in fuel lines

pull tops of carbies after start up and idle to check fuel levels in bowl

check fuel pump pressure should be 5 lbs of so

I have a set of carbs that were taken off a 71 square Auto running perfectly if you want to try?