Is it normal t have a noticeable notch in the center or the steering range? Mine feels quite large and I'm thinking it means my steering box is buggered. I have just had my front wheel alignment done. 3* camber and 3mm toe out and 2x caster shims each side. I have also had the top arms bent and added extra eccentric camber nut and running lowered front end. I was hoping an alignment would fix that whale like steering.

My steering is very inconsistent and has a lot of different steering wheel angles for straight ahead. I stripped my box and cleaned throughly and lubed and adjusted to minimal play. I have also replaced all ball joints and tie rod ends and steering shaft disc.

It's a68 BJ with converted rearIRS I haven't had the rear end aligned yet

This is VW's tolerance but it's 15mm of outer sterring wheel rim play in dead ahead position before you can see the pitman arm move.

Did you make both adjustments to the box? Would need my manual to remember correctly but one is done at full lock and the other dead centre. One does the worm drive the other the roller drive.

I mean if all the BJs are new plus have been checked for no play aswell as the tie rod ends (inner and outer) then that only really leaves the steering box.

even my brand new TRW box is just within tolerance yet only in one direction, odd right? Anyway, just cos you stripped and cleaned the box don't mean it ain't already too worn to be reused. Used to be able to buy new worm drive, I think, as these the ones that wear the most but alas not seen em for sale in ages.

I can't see the rear suspension making the steering notchy. It would just make it crab down the road or just feel twitchy.

I might try the straight ahead adjustment. Any one have a good link. I have only adjusted at full lock.
Cheers

hi

Make sure when your wheels are straight ahead that the steering box is straight ahead, you can do this by counting the number of turns and halving it, of course you will need to back of lock stops when you do this.

A lot of wheel alignment shops will just move the easiest tie rods to get the correct alignment the results is that the steering box can be off centre.

You you should adjust it so that in the straight ahead position you can barely feel play up & down in the pitman arm , if the steering tightens up away from straight ahead as in the play disappears the box is worn too much.

Steve

Here's a link to the steering box blown apart

Beetle Steering box

Full lock adjustment is done on the large allen head grub screw/plug to remove play/wear in the worm gear bearings. Wheels need to be off the floor so tightness can be felt in the steering wheels as it's turned lock to lock and the adjust made at both full locks to ensure play from both bearings is eliminated.
Straight ahead is just the screw with locknut on the top of the box. After locknut is backed off then you just tighten the screw till it goes tight and back it off half a turn. Now try the steering lock to lock. If it tightens as you steering then centre and back off another half turn. Do this till no tightness as you turn. Not if your steering wheel has more than 15mm of play before the pitman arm moves then the box is shagged.

Thanks psimitar
I haven't read how to adjust the box since I did my first bug back in 2000. So I think. Have it wrong. I was adjusting the top screw half a turn at alternating locks.

So what am I doing for a full restart. Loosen the top screw completely???
And what am I feeling for when I adjust the large Allen key?
This is an important change in what I have done, so thanks and hopefully it yields results.

The car hasn't seen much work I think, it only has 61000 miles on the odometer and sat in a shed for 7 years before I bought it.

Cheers

Ps it just feels wrong to drive so I hope I can sort it.

steering box will need to properly aligned to the steering shaft after installing 2 x caster shims each side. This will probably require the notches in the steering box clamp to be elongated to enable it to rotate around the beam.

You need to purchase a good manual so you have the information in front of you when you do the job

This had happenedto me a while ago and i thought the box was on the way out or about to go. Because you are having inconsistent straightline wheel angles, have you checked the bolts above and below the steering coupler to see if they are loose???
My 'notch' was because these bolts were slipping every now and then. I ended up replacing the steering coupler to a red urothane one instead of rubber. i also adjusted the steering box and it now handles like a go-kart!!! :-)

Forgot bout the castor shims. Normally there's enough adjustment for the box to twist on the torsion tube to re-align with the steering column. From memory it's just a case of having the steering column shaft and steer box input shaft as in line with each other as possible. If the box to column shaft is too great then this can cause notchy-ness as the rubber coupler hasn't the flex needed for the angle.

As for the box adjustments a manual is handy here but, again from memory, with the front wheels off the ground you back the slotted screw off so the box feels loose when steered.

Then you adjust the large allen head screw to take slack from the worm drive bearings but the steer wheel still turns smoothly.

Then you do the slotted screw adjustment and hopefully have no tight spots and minimal steer wheel play.

Good advise Marty
I'll investigate box to linkage angles and the tightness of all parts. Although I think I checked that all was tight already. I am using a new German disc to join shaft with box.
Cheers Psimitar
I will give that a go too