G'day guys,

I need some assistance with trying to trace what's causing my clutch pedal shudder. It only happened this morning on my way to work.

Here's the scenario. When I begin to depress the clutch pedal, I can feel the shudder in the pedal, and when fully depressed it sounds like rattling tinware. This happens going up through the gears and is worse on change down.

I adjusted the clutch this afternoon, but there doesn't appear to be that positive "hump" when you press the clutch pedal, taking up the free-play then pushing the pedal to the floor. It feels more like a gradual taking up of tension.

The clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and clips were renewed in 2012 about 23,000 miles ago. The Bowden tube and clutch cable were changed in 2013, about 15,000 miles ago. The Bowden tube has the right amount of dip/bend in it. The clutch isn't slipping.

I don't know whether the spring fingers (newer multi-finger type) in the pressure plate have lost springiness, or the throw out bearing is playing up or whether the flywheel gland nut may need to be looked at.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

norm

check your engine mounts

Thanks Barls. That's one of the first things I checked. The engine to the gearbox and the gearbox mounts. The front gearbox mount bolts were a bit loose, and I thought this may have fixed or alleviated the problem, but no go on that point.

Bowden tube bent?

could be a broken arm on the clutch fork

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the input. The scary thought that passed through my mind today after having to drive the bug out of necessity was that the "rattling tinware" sound could be the clutch cable conduit adrift in the tunnel causing the rattling and shuddering of the clutch pedal when I press it. I hope it isn't. Has anyone had that happen to them?

I'll be dropping the engine either way to check the pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch and crankshaft gland nut.

Cheers,

Norm

Had the clutch tube come adrift in the tunnel in my Mum's beetle when she still had it. Came off right at the end near the pedals, had to cut the tunnel open to braze it up.

Here's what I found today when I dropped the engine. One side of the diaphragm of the pressure plate collapsed. No wonder the clutch pedal would shudder and make a racket when I pressed it. The clutch disk still looks virtually new after 23,000 miles with still 8.8mm of material left on it. As it's undamaged, it will be going back on. The clutch fork is fine and the flywheel is good.

With a new 180mm pressure plate and throw-out bearing in hand, will put it back together tomorrow and get the Bug back to its rightful place. Up and about on the roads.

Thanks to those that gave tips and ideas

Norm

these are bad words

Make sure there is plenty of free play at the pedal. As long as the clutch dis-engages, the free play isn't important.

You don't want to 'turn the diaphragm inside-out'. I'm not saying that's what happened.

Greg,

I usually give the pedal freeplay about 25mm, even though the book says 20mm.

Thanks for the input.

Cheers.

Norm

That is a weird fault to have happened plus I'm appalled that it was a Sachs unit. Their stuff is usually good. Hopefully material and production quality aren't falling and it was a quality inspection failure. Be a shame for another brand to be penny pinching

Got the car back together yesterday and the new clutch pressure plate and throw-out bearing work a treat. Hopefully I get more than 23,000 miles out of the new pressure plate, a LUK brand this time.

Thanks for all the input and tips.

Norm

I have the same pressure plate, so hopefully that doesn't happen to me when my car is finished!
Good to hear you have it sorted