Help......

My only daily driver just acquired a very loose flywheel, and mangled the dowel holes on the crank and flywheel.

Been googling and it is doable to drill new holes with a jig without removing the crankshaft. Effectively creating an 8 dowel setup.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/8_doweling_crank/ 

Money is tight so the cheap fix is what is happening. No new crank/flywheel etc.

So does anyone have the magic jig that I can hire or where can you buy one?

Cheers
Dave

The long answer is; if the dowel holes are elongated, than the crankshaft end needs to be refaced flat and the flywheel machined so they both have a flat surface to connect, other wise it will come loose again. Once you have the parts fitting together, you will need the jig to guide your drill through the flywheel and then the crankshaft. I've seen it done before, but he was a specialist machinist with tooling that was specific to the job, that he had made. And I might add, it was the 1980's and he would do heaps of them. And if you get this far, don't forget to reset the end float, or else the rear main will seize with in a minute.
Short answer is; NO
sorry for the bad news, Dave

I don't think trying to drill the pin holes in the crank while the engine is assembled will be very successful

you really need to strip it and do the job

I had it done once years ago, and it worked OK. From memory, the holes in the crank were OK, it was only the holes in the flywheel that had been worn a bit, so we only re-drilled them.

Just thinking about it, I have a feeling we drilled the holes in the crank a larger size and used larger dowels.

Thanks guys.

Ordered a jig from Volks.com.au $54 delivered.

Also getting a freshly re-ground crank on Monday.

Will be 8 doweling it and the flywheel.

While the case i split may as well put in a cam, so just getting an Engle 100.

Someone said VW engines are uber reliable......until we modify/mess them up....

make sure you get the engle lifters as well to match the cam

what carbies do you run

Weber ICT 34's (Empi ones)

Stock internals, 1641 stock heads, above carbs, Pertronics ign with dual advance dissy (not sure I get much vac advance off the T'd ICT's...)

Getting lifters too, do I need springs as well?

Currently on OG '67 ones....

Also is line boreing needed, or optional?

Not split the case yet, what do you look for to see if boring is needed?

Cheers

When you split the case, clean it up and take it to a reputable engine re-conditioner and have them measure up the case. They will then tell you whether or not it needs to be done.
Dave

the thrust bearing face? seems to be a bigger issue on cases i have worked on

What is the endplay like on your crank now?

End play was minimal, but with the flywheel off it's massive ( to be expected)

Will take the lot to my nearest engine man next week.

Is line boring similar to getting oversize bearings but on the outside of them?

Like a crank gets ground smaller, then bigger bearing to suit, the case "hole" gets bigger and an oversize (externally) bearing to suit?

Cheers

Ok, cases split and all cleaned up.

The surfaces on all main bearing areas look very good, tight contact between the bearings and case, no hammering/fretting at all.

Looks like it's had work done before, white pen marks on the crank...

T .020

M .010

Thrust and mains clearances? also each con rod and end cap have been punched and matched, 1 dot, 2 dots etc, but they are not on the corresponding journals, so probably reground at some point. (will measure)

The guy I'm getting the cam from fitted it but never ran, he's going hotter, so I get the cam, lifters, gear, and he's going dual springs so I will get his new springs as well.

Just need to see if my case has already been bored over size, looks too bloody good for 49 years old..... Will compare tomorrow against new stock bearings.

Got a tiny bit of side to side play on the con rods is that ok?

I will be using new main bearings, on the freshly ground crank, (obviously)

Assuming the case is not stuffed, thrust wise (which it looks like it's good) do you just dial out the end play with the 3 shims between flywheel and crank?

Cheers

Ok almost finished now, 8 doweled the crank and flywheel, could have easily done it without removing the crank...

At least now I have a hot cam Engle110, lifters, hd springs.

I will get the correct shims for end play tomorrow then refit and back on the road.

Anyone can borrow the jig for post costs, it is really easy!

Cheers
Dave