Need help with self centering on 1968 type1.
So far i have replaced tie rod ends, steering dampener, steering box and had a wheel alignment done at the shop. I did find online the specifications for a 68 type1 toe in, camber and caster but they said they align it to 0 toe in for WA roads. After all this it still wont self center.

Does anyone have any suggestions i could try? Does anyone recommend a shop i could take it to, I live in Karratha WA.

Get a wheel alignment from someone that is not an idiot.

Hi

1968 1500 beetle specifications for front where alignment CAMBER ANGLE [to chassis number 115 979 202]
o
0 40' -+ 30'

CAMBER ANGLE [from chassis number 116 000 001]
o
0 30' -+20'
o o
caster angle 3 20' +- 1

TOE IN 18' TO 40' angular minutes = .047 with 15 inch tyres..

Naturally You won't get self centering with parallel steering.. and modern Wheel alignment machines show all aspects of the front end so anything can be moved or aligned.... and there are NO special wheel alignment specifications for Western Australia...
I have heard many complaints about wheel alignments being done incorrectly and expensive tyres being badly worn prematurely....

I can remember being told many years ago that they adjusted the castor on My vehicle [non Vw] so it steers easier and self centers... etc..


LEE

Thx AA003 and Lee
Good call I will ring another shop and see if they can do it.
Chassis number is 118710875 1600cc and 195/60/15 on the front

Volkswagen made castor shims to reduce this effect, I run them on all my type one based vehicles, but if you increase the castor , you increase the steering effort required at low speed. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-BEETLE-Aluminium-Caster-Shims-Pair-22-2815-/322...

Get the car moving. It won't self centre if you are standing still. lol

Is there nothing You don't know Jeff???

I remember a true story about a little old lady back in the early 60's told the mechanic that Her Beetle didn't stay in the centre of the road when She let go of the steering wheel...
The mechanic went out on a straight bit of road and the car drove perfectly at 30 MPH NO hands... The lady drove away in Her beetle and was soon back complaining to the mechanic.... So He went out and tried it at 40MPH No hands... perfect...

So He told the lady that it was perfect at 40 MPH...
She said Yes it's OK at 40 MPH but when I'm going down a big hill near home and I'm doing 70MPH She said its all over the road NO Hands.....


LEE

hi Guys
Car is booked in tomorrow and they will redo the wheel alignment. Will let you know if that fixes the problem.

Today i was talking to a guy who rebuilt an old ford model T hot rod, who had similar problem his solution was to loosen off the tie rod end nuts that attach to the steering arm half a turn?? question is should those two tie rod end nuts be done up tight on my VW or be backed off, currently all my tie rod ends are done up tight?

Todd

All front end nuts / bolts to be done up tight unless you want to kill yourself

You should have 1 or 2 mm toe in so the car tracks I don't know why WA roads would be different to the rest of AUSSIE

Is the front end lowered or narrowed that will make a difference

Are the Ball joints good you need to load them up to see if good or bad all other bits replaced

Dave, please correct your mistake of "1 or 2 degrees"...that would be about 5 to 10 mm.

We don't want anyone to kill themselves.

Most of our roads are straight, so you only need to turn every 1/2 hour anyway..........

I have always used about 1mm toe-in, a heap of caster, and 0.5deg LH neg camber with 0.25deg neg camber RH.
Surprisingly enough, that seems to work well enough for most of the cars I've driven, even those funny thingys with engines in the front.

Most of the old stuff I've had that doesn't self-centre usually involves a binding or sticky steering box that needs lube or adjustment, or lack of lube in the joints.

yes I meant mm you need some toe in otherwise they wander

well guys still no return to center, specs were not exact to how i asked but apparently they are within the limit.

total toe +1.6
half toe +1.6mm +0.1mm
Camber +00°50" -00°50"
Max diff +01°40"
Caster +02°40" +03°20"
Max diff -00°40"
King Pin Angle +23°20" +23°00"

suggestion from tyre shop was to remove steering dampener and try and eliminate that as possible problem, i have done this and still no return to center.
Front end has NOT been lowered or altered 195/60/15 tyres on front with front jacked up it moves free left and right. Ball joints checked when inspected and are ok steering box new, new tie rod ends and steering column was removed and checked its straight.
Any suggestions as what to check next before i decide to tow it 1700km's down to the city and get the Fremantle VW to try sort it out.
:/ suggestions please..

Ive managed to find a mechanic in town who will have a look at it on monday, ill post any results.
Todd

is there any oil / molly grease in the steering box thick n gooie lubricant

Fairly wide front tyres. What width rims are you running and what is your front tyre pressure?

vw54 the steering box is new so i have not pulled it apart to check. I have adjusted the top screw for the steering wheel play which is about an inch, I have not tried to adjust the hex nut one at the front of the steering box as i don't have the tool to do it could this be the problem? I can get mechanic to check Monday.

hulbyw rims are 5.5" tyre pressure is 32psi.

there is a filler plug on the top of the steering box undo and see if theres any oily / grease stuff inside

if not get some molly grease and a gearbox oil mix together to a slurry

I would have thought 32psi in the front of a Beetle to be a fair bit too much. Doubt it is the cause of the lack of self centreing though. There are threads on here about tyre pressures and it is a bit like asking what engine oil to use. Everyone has their own opinion, and they are all right. Changing pressures won't cost anything so perhaps try 26psi. It will at least make the ride more comfortable and also give you a longer contact patch on the road, together with a change in steering "feel". If you don't like these changes just pump them up again.
Cheers

front tyre pressure should be about 20 psi, factory recommendation 17-18psi
I bet yo have new ball joints fitted, many these days need to be fitted by someone VERY experienced to get the correct crush. Most these days are produced with larger diameter to give a tight fit into the arm, but more often than not they are too tight which causes the balljoint to bind, too much friction and it won't self centre, also the suspension will be noticeable stiffer. You can drop tie rod ends and determine which is the culprit, sometimes they come good with some bumpy road work outs, but this is a hopeful remedy.

GOOD NEWS my vw passed inspection, i took it to a different workshop who also did inspections. They looked over the steering issue checking all the usual faults and couldn't spot anything that would cause the problem, took it for a drive and the "old" fella said she's a great car mate drives well done a great job on the restoration, parked it up and said he will pass it. he did give me the number for another wheel alignment place in town so i may go there at a later date.
I did reduce tyre pressures to 26psi, added some gearbox oil grease mixture to the steering box and sprayed more lubricant on all the moving parts. Maybe being new with a bit more driving it will free up either way happy days
2 1/2 yrs rebuilding its all paid off, another beetle on the road cheers for all your suggestions a great site.

As I said previously , vw made the shims to increase the castor, this will help self centre the steering.

Thx will look into that vwo60