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Cable stretch and loose tube

paslow22 - August 8th, 2017 at 03:02 PM

Hi.

After much thought I decided to check out the problem I had many moons ago when the clutch peddle went to the floor after it made a noise.

I disconnected the clutch and throttle cables and pulled out the assembly.
I found that the clutch cable was frayed and as it goes in from the front decided to pull it out that way but it now it's stuck (just realised that may be the flex hose at the rear end, will check)

Also I found that the clutch tube at the front end is loose and when I move it I can hear it hitting something in the tunnel about half way along.

I have photos of a half cut tunnel which shows the clutch/fuel and heater tubes.
Thanks to a fellow Aussieveedubber (thanks again.)

As far as I can see it looks like the tube is only welded at two ends with tab support in between.
Would this be right?

My idea to fix is to cut a small section of the tunnel where it is welded at the front and reweld it. then fix the patch I cut out.

Does this sound like a fix.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Darryl

Question,

vw54 - August 8th, 2017 at 03:31 PM

yes that's the method to repair the tunnel tube

vwo60 - August 8th, 2017 at 06:23 PM

Use a hole saw to cut into the tunnel, if you cut a hole with corners it will crack, the round hole solves the problem and I have done this on two cars over the years.

vw54 - August 8th, 2017 at 06:51 PM

as per above hole saw best method

hellbugged - August 8th, 2017 at 07:53 PM

2 inch saw (1 1/2 will do), pilot point 70mm back from centre of big hole in tunnel where pedal cluster goes through, 90 mm up off floor should get you bang on the money and be good for welding and hooking up cables forever more, i'm hoping (well midnight measurements) this point will bring you in just above the tube braket so you dont cut into where it is welded to the side of the tunnel

paslow22 - August 8th, 2017 at 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hellbugged
2 inch saw (1 1/2 will do), pilot point 70mm back from centre of big hole in tunnel where pedal cluster goes through, 90 mm up off floor should get you bang on the money and be good for welding and hooking up cables forever more, i'm hoping (well midnight measurements) this point will bring you in just above the tube braket so you dont cut into where it is welded to the side of the tunnel

Thanks vwo60, VW54 and hellbugged,

I will buy a 2 inch hole saw tomorrow, drill 70mm back and 90mm up from the floor and weld away.

I suppose I could make up a plate to cover the hole and screw it to cover the hole, it sounds better than welding it and I don't think that size of a hole would weaken it.

Let me know what you think.

So am I correct in that there are only 2 welds on the tube? forward and aft and nothing in between.

This is on the 1971 kameleon restoration car on U tube that I was fortunate enough to buy that had a 3 year restoration then caught on fire after a loose fuel line.
All fixed now, had to chase up some paint, very lucky there.

Paint colour is amazing and excellent finish and near perfect even though there are some large pools of dried paint just below the front windscreen, you have to be looking for it.

It is still an amazing result.

I guess they didn't change the clutch cable or it was a new one that failed, when I pulled it out it was attached by only 1 wire strand (true)

Also changed all ball joints and the centre ball joint bar
( twisted) and put grommets around all the wiring going through the body, all missing. 11 all up.

Put a kit through the steering box, (VW King) one was supposed to have had one fitted during the restoration but there was tooooo much play and couldn't be adjusted out.

I have all the receipts for the car restoration and the amount is staggering and jaw dropping, and still needed work done to it.

I feel lucky to own it and feel for the previous owner who went on to creating and planning an unique car only to have it catch on fire after only 12 months on the road.

Only had 1800 klms on it when I purchased it. Everything new.

Thanks again for the infomation

Darryl

beetleboyjeff - August 9th, 2017 at 02:00 AM

That is a lovely car. Congrats on purchasing it.

hellbugged - August 9th, 2017 at 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by paslow22

I will buy a 2 inch hole saw tomorrow, drill 70mm back and 90mm up from the floor and weld away

So am I correct in that there are only 2 welds on the tube? forward and aft and nothing in between.

Darryl

There is a third. Adding /repairing in the middle is the easier of 3 to do.

https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38560&page=16

Welding carefully! You don't want to blow thru into the tube causing cable freying in the future.

If the front is completely broken away, you can slip a big washer over the end of the tube and into position. Tac that to the tube then to the bracket. This allows a bit more marerial to weld to and gets you further away from where it was broken off. Also less likely to blo thru

vwo60 - August 9th, 2017 at 07:05 AM

Weld the opening up as if you screw a cover onto the tunnel it will leave stress risers. there is no point in use a hole saw if you do not weld it up and put the strength back

hellbugged - August 9th, 2017 at 10:01 PM

Yeah there are no other holes in the tunnel :starhit:

vwo60 - August 10th, 2017 at 07:17 AM

All the other holes are a calculation by the manufacturer, not just cut into an important part of the tunnel that takes away strength from that area. I have seen many cracks in tunnels radiating from holes cut in them.

paslow22 - August 10th, 2017 at 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by vwo60
All the other holes are a calculation by the manufacturer, not just cut into an important part of the tunnel that takes away strength from that area. I have seen many cracks in tunnels radiating from holes cut in them.

Ok, I'll weld the hole back up.

Thanks
Darryl

hellbugged - August 10th, 2017 at 06:30 PM

Quote:

You sure that's how it was all figured in the 50's?

vwo60 - August 11th, 2017 at 07:39 AM

What ever that means.