Hi,

I'm mechanically pretty inept and am having a look a 68 squareback in a couple of days. Anyone got any advice on things I should definitely look out for? The seller has mentioned the engine may need work/new valves as the engine lacks power going up hills. Is this a worrying sign of strife to come or a reasonable repair to take on board?

Any general advice much appreciated. I've been without an aircooled motor for too long and am really hoping this'll be my first type III !

thanks
Al

Depends how much your paying ?But u should check the heater channels and floor pan for rust,see how straight she is check for previous accident dents repairs etc.68 irs 4 stud good choice good luck .Others will advise other stuff...

it will still be swing axle (69 first year of IRS)but where ive found most type 3's to be rust are in the sills ,heater channels, floor pan and behind the rear guards!!!
the motor isnt a big part compared to body work needed
cheers
rhys

sure rhys?
i would say irs too............
need another vote

thats what i always thought??? didnt they upgrade to front discs in 69 aswell?? oh well we will see what it is when he looks at it
is this the one on ebay?
cheers
rhys

Thanks for the advice fellas. It sounds like I shouldn't be overly concerned if the engine needs an overhaul so long as the car is solid and straight?

Its only on for $1500 so I'm not expecting a little gem, but hoping it will be solid and usable.

Is a 68 pre upgrades like disc brakes (and stuff you've lost me on!) okay as a daily driver?

Al

i agree with rhys...69 was the first irs. that's my vote anyway...we'll leave the decider to type 3 breeder tazz
rust will be your biggest issue, the others told you the main areas so as long as you look at them closely you should be right. where are you and the car??

if u are close to someone they might come and look at it for u
look around the window rubbers closely, they show age, fuse box will show tampering, engines easy to fix, inside the gaurds on the bottom where stuff gathers is a big spot for rust, if they let u take the door cards out do so and look for rust on the inside bottom of doors, what else...............
stick u'r head under the car and with a screw driver check how solid the floor pan is by pocking it softly particulalry under the battery, witht he handle knock the heater chanel area (under the door when its closed on the outside)
take a magnet and stick it to the body all around, if it doesnt stick its full of bog......
spare wheel well is a good indicator of the cars condition, take the wheel out and look .

I'm in Tassie, on the NW coast. So, I'll have a good old poke around and hope she stands up to it!

Hey, thanks for all to quick advice, veedub folk are just the nicest, can't wait to get back behind the wheel of a cool car! Just have to make sure that doesn't blind me and I buy a basket case!

I'm from England originally and aircooled drivers all wave at each other there, is that the case in Oz?

Rust also likes to get into the roof on squarebacks, just above the rain gutters.

Also check that the engine mounts are not tearing away from the bodywork.

ok...
early 68's were swing....
later 68 IMPORTS were IRS (Thats the info i have been givin)
69's have front disc's....

As for your purchase,
All of the above and....
where teh engine bay is there is 2 rectangler flaps that drain the water out of the rear guards, They rust out quick!
They fill up with crap get wet and RUSTO!

Top of the front guards near the doors...
They rust out and then begin to eat the body in that area, if you can stick your head in and look up in that area inside.. you can usally see bubbles....

The vents below the front screen, the tube that runs the water out gets blocked.
Battery area, so make sure you fold the seat down...
This is the tricky one....
The lower section on the bulk head... (The bit the font beam bolts too) They rust out behind the lower bolt.
(Yes i can RABBLE ON!)
Tazz....
If you need more info...
Email me..
klubvw@iprimus.com.au

:thumb:thumb:thumb

Ok, just in case anyone is interested . .

I went to look at the car today. Well, all the advice is much appreciated but wasn't really needed for even me to spot this wagon needed more than a bit of scrubbing up. I didn't even bother to try and drive it!

I suppose I shouldn't have expected too much for $1500 asking price but I'm a hopeless optomist. It had the potential for a dedicated and skilled individual with time and equipment, but that aint me unfortunately.

So my quest continues! Might have to buy some beat up Ford (aggghhh) in the meantime!

Al

Wanting a decent daily driver for $1500 is not at all optimistic. Sure, some cars are worth a lot more, but I would say that most of them are worth a lot less.

Probably the best way to go is to buy one that is mechanically good with no rust, but some damage to bolt-on panels, because it brings the price down a lot more than it costs to replace them.

Keep looking for a good one, but don't be too eager about it. Make sure all your mates know what you're looking for, and let you know if they see any for sale. The bargains are usually parked on the side of the road somewhere with a price on the window, not in the Trading Post (although the Trading Post occasionally has some damn good bargains too!).