Just bought myself a 1970 Beetle with a '73 1600 in it last week. Decided I better change the oil.

I have read alot about what oil to use but am still unsure.
In John Muir's book he talks about detergent and non-detergent oils.
How do I know whether my current oil is detergent or non-det?
In regard to grade: I talked to Volkspower and they say to use 25W-60.
What recommendations do you have?

Thanks

[Edited on 10-9-2003 by *did*]

Don't worry about detergent and non-detergent oils. That book is very old and it's not an issue these days.

Use any good 20W50 oil and you should be fine. Go for a decent specification like SJ or later oils (ie SJ, SL etc)

I wouldn't use anything but Castrol Magnatec oil.. IMHO the best.... and Your Beetle engine naturally should have the best.... I don't want My beetle engine to wear out for a long long time...:thumb
Castrol Magnatec 5L for under $30.00
There are so many oils out there, its a difficult decision, but once You have picked one and it seems OK, stick with it.
Don't mix oils... Buy the best You can afford... cheers Lee

what ever oil - regularity is more important.

Cheap oil changed every 3 - 5,ooo kms is better thant big buck oil changed every 10,000 kms


PS
Congratulations on the purchase.

(damn edit mode - cant see what was typed)

Your first?
Was it a 71? - super or standard?

[Edited on 10-9-2003 by blue74l]

I personally wouldn't use 25w60 engine oil in an air cooled VW Engine...
the original grade recommended was 30 grade oil... a light grade engine oil.
Castrol Magnatec is a 10w40 engine oil.
Not too heavy to slow down the oil cooling in the VW oil cooler..
and Yes, regularity is the Key...
every 3000 miles. change the oil...
cheers
Lee

[Edited on 10-9-2003 by 68AutoBug]

I've heard lots of negative things about Castrol Magnetic, and would never use it.

Do a search on the net and you'll see what I mean.

A mineral oil will give less oil leaks than a synthetic oil. That's a big plus for the mineral oil in a VW motor.

Yeah, not real keen on the old Magnatec - made the lifters in my V8s and a Pajero go ticky ticky. I've used GTX2 in everythig I own for years - inlcuding a 1916cc Beetle. (Daily driver and circuit sprints) Change every 2000 miles in the Beetle and my old cruiser and 5000km in the daily driver. No oil filter in a beetle and carbys/chokes and shorter trips contaminates oil with petrol far more than EFI

cars with hydraulic lifters are different, and need higher quality oil. I tried SL grade mineral oil in my V6 and it didn't like it. Noisy lifters. Then I got some advise off the MX6 boys and they said to run a thin high quality 5W-30 synthetic. I did that (Castrol Synthetic R) and the lifter noise went away. They also don't like magnetic.

But the VW engine does not have any hydraulic lifters or other fancy bearings, and therefore does not need a fancy oil. Like blue says, just change it more often. You can buy good oil for the VW for about $14.

According to the spec sheet for castrol.
20W 50 (Or GTX2) is the recomended oil for use.
I think we had this before didnt we Wes?
I use Castrol Formula R 25W-50 (The old GP50) in the 1916 in summer and GTX 2 in winter......

Castrol Magnatec is only a 10W 40.
Synthetics or Semi Synthetics are not good for Aircooled engines as the Castrol Tech Head told us..
Thats what GTX and GTX 2 are for....

Tazz.

Thanks guys,
I think I will go for the GTX2, as its cheap and easy to get a hold of.

For those who were wondering: my beetle is a 1970 1500 body, but with a '73 1600 (AD) in it. Extractors, 009 dizzy, different cam (not sure which), lightened flywheel. And yeah, its my first!

Tazz
OK.. I am changing to GTX2 also....
I looked up Castrol and air cooled industrial engines and GTX2 is recommended for VW engines....
They don't list Beetles etc any more on their oil recommendation list for cars.
Thanks for the info..
cheers
Lee

PS. I'll keep the Magnatec for My Lancer.

I'm lazy and couldn't be bothered trying to find the articles on the negative effects of Castrol's Magnetec maaaaaaaaan. Could someone who's been there post up some links please? Thanks

I bought a 20 litre drum of Penrite HPR30 20-60 grade. Mineral oil that covers a large range of viscosity and isn't too expensive. I change both the Beetle and the Bus every 5000km.

Hey, Hellbus!
You're in Blackburn, I live in Blacky too, but my beetles in Ringwood.
Nice bus

If synthetic oils aren't recommended for air-cooleds why did Porsche use Mobil 1 in all their air-cooled and new stuff for the last 15 years? I'm sure there's almost as much stress on my 1835 pushing 1.8ton of kombi up the toowoomba range every day, so it has nothing to do with" high performance engines" and more to do with longevity. Where is the scientific facts to say that synthetic oils aren't suitable for an air-cooled engine. If I can get 250,000 ks between rebuilds I'll use the best oil I can get with filter changes every 3000ks and oil changes every 6000. Everyone has an opinion on what they think is best for their car , but I'll trust Porsche experience for hard driven air-cooled's until I'm proven wrong.

*did*

You will see more of the bus now that the weather is getting better. Also the beetle is going off the road for a quick respray soon, so Fleur will be driving the bus everyday again.

So what oil do You use Dubcab??
Mobil one is a bit expensive for Me....
I know My Beetle deserves the Best... but not Mobil 1...
Magnatec is just under $30 for 5 litres.
Castrol GTX 2 is around $18 for 5 litres.
My Son uses Shell 20w60 oil in His Beetle.
its cheaper still... (for older vehicles)
Lee

A work mate of mine was a Product Manager at Castrol up until 18months ago. (now he works for us).
His recomendation for air cooled VW's is Castrol GTX2. Good enough for me.

Hey *did* I live in Ringwood Small world!

Jay and Wolf

I live in blacky too! maybe i'll see you around when Belle decides to behave more!

I know a number of type 4 Kombi motors with well over 200,000 miles from original on both synthetic and mineral oils.
As I mentioned in the other oil thread, synthetic oil will be have a more stable viscosity at hight temps. This is not the bulk oil temp in your sump but around the rings/valves where the oil is subjected to temps over 400degC.
As Wes says there is no real benefit using synthetics in an old VW (even though some kombi's do have hydraulic lifters on the valves).
The best thing is to get an oil pressure gauge and ensure the pressure is within spec. When old oil starts to break down you will loose oil pressure, so make sure you change oil before this happens, also if you run your oil hot it will also loose pressure so pick an appropirate weight to overcome this. This is assuming an otherwise healthy engine.
Andy
:thumb

Thanks for the Oil Pressure information Andy...
Lee

:thumb gtx2 tyvm

I was using Mobil XHP but changed to Castrol GTX when I rebuilt the motor.

Ain't GTX2 and Super XHP pretty much the same anyways? All this everyday 20W-50 oil is all refined from the same base oil and the separate companies add in thier own additives... Isn't it?

I use Mobil XHP anyways... I used Mobile 1 once... but i wouldn't get enough oil pressure at idle... and after a run to Torquay in my 72 Beetle 1500, it smelt pretty hot....

[Edited on 16-9-2003 by oval TOFU]

Yeah they are, but since I'd just rebuilt the motor (ie. it had NO oil in it), I figured I'd swap over to what the manual recommended, just for the hell of it.

Would it be ok to use a heavier grade of oil in my 1200 (coz of crap compression)? Soemthing like 25W-60? I think Shell or Penzoil market an oil for older cars that have a higher viscosity rating...


It wouldn't be too thick for a humble VW engine would it?

Wouldn't hurt....
You could go for Penrite HPR 30 if you wish....

Just keep up the oil changes..

oval TOFU,
Should be no dramas. My type 4 motor is a little worn, and on a trip to Adelaide was loosing oil pressure (worn bearings) in the 40+ deg heat. I changed to shell 25W70 sport oil I think, problem solved. I would only do it to extend the life on an old motor though.