1968 Type 1

how big of a job is this?
any pointers?
what am i looking at for a new box?
will a worn clutch speed up the wear on my new box?

Are you a mechanic or do you have any mechanical background ???

I'm also contemplating a GB change to a later better ratioed GB from my split case (hopefully the 3.88 one) is this the 1500 box? PPl seem to have very good comments abotu this one instead of the 1600 box.. why's this? I'll also need to weld in another mount on my 54 chassis yeh?

I know about aligning the stb axels to cold chisel marks on the trailing arms when reinstalling the axel tubes etc... need to keep the short axels to keep the 225/60/15's under the guards!

sorry to bust in on your post VW54! But his info maybe usefull to you too...

yep mechanically minded..

not hard fuz, i helped out with a swap and i aint that mech. minded yet and i understood it all
much easier with a friend, like always !

yeah ive decided to do it... infact ive already got the it on the bench anywho back to it

First step is to remove and loosen the rear axle nuts. These are bloody tight so while every thing is hook up remove the split pin and loosen the axle nuts while the brakes and car are still on the ground.

Of course the engine has to come out after this step... so if you can remove n replace the engine the gear box shouldnt be nmuch more trouble to you.

Dont forget the gear shift linkage under the back seat inside the car.

Best bet if you haven't done it before is to read a workshop manual.

the L box ( 4 joint / IRS / single side plate ) is the 3.88: 1 diff ratio box.
the 1500 swing axle has 4.125 : 1 diff.
the earlier 1200 + 1300 swing axles 4.375 : 1 .
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Can you convert a IRS two side plate box into a swing axle configuration ?
(strange how some hang on to the old ideas.)