This is a 1300 SP engine with a 28PICT carby. Timing & dwell seem to be spot on. If I try full throttle off the mark, it will hesitate badly but if I accelerate slower, it would be fine although slow then you can feel it pick up. On steep grades its pretty bad because you have to open the throttle, you have no choice. Idles OK. Leads stuffed? Carby stuffed? Or what?
Raf

dizzy advance working ok??

It seem to be working. I disconnected the carby end and sucked, the timing marking moved up the pulley. I have a 009, should I just wack it in?
By the way, the pulley has one mark one it. This is TDC right? I took a guess that timing should be about 7.5BTDC and that's what I used (estimated what 7.5BTDC is from another pulley)

IF it has "one" mark that is usually 7.5 before

You will be out if you have used it as TDC

Just line the mark up with the case seam

OK, I will do that and see how it goes
Thanks

maybe its icing of the manifold under the carby... the heating pipe may be blocked and not heating properly...

Check down the throat of the carby to see if your accelerator jet has fallen out... :o

Still no joy. I did the following so far:
- replaced the leads
- replaced the points
- replaced condenser
- tried vacuum advance dizzy and a 009
- replaced carby (with another dodgy one)
- timing is spot on and its not 180deg out
The spacer under the carby (the one I had to make to clear the generator) is sealed well
Another symptom, if I fully open the throttle, apart from the coughing, I will get a loud pop from the carby
Any words of wisdom?
Raf

Raf,
have you got another carb lying around that you can stick on it for comparison?
seems like you've eliminated everything else!

Take the filter off and rev it full throttle.
Does the loud pop come from the exhaust or out the top og the carb??

Sounds like a big vacuum leak somwhere.

Does ir run better when the choke is closed???

I tried two 28PICT carbies but both are not in great shape anyway. Anyone hasa 28 or a 30 I can try?
The pop is from the carby not the exhaust. It was runnong OK before I decided to full everything apart to fix an oil leak. I took the carby, manifold, dizzy, generator and fan out. The leak was from the oil cooler. Becuase I took a lot of things out, I got no idea what caused the problem. Maybe I need to reseat the manifold. Any way I can test manifold to head leaks?
Raf

Did u use 2 new intake manifold sealing rings,they go between the head and manifold.

Raf is the carbie the early manual choke type? And is the dissy the large body vac advance only type?
If yes to both then the combination is no good. The carb will pull full vac advance all the time due to the vacuum take off point on the early 28's. You need to find an early mechanical & vac advance distributor to go with that carb. Or a later model vac advance only carby.

Other than that it could be manifold icing. VW Performance Center in Croydon do a nice manifold heater set up that pretty cheap and easy to fit.
D

Raf,

Have you tried that manifold i gave you?, the pre heater pipes were unblocked and you wouldnt need that adaptor plate of yours that i think is half your problem. Also, if you tried that 28 pic carb i gave you without putting a kit through it im suprised it even idles. Your gonna have to spend some money at some stage mate.
good luck

chris

Thanks Chris, both did not fit. I don't mind spending the money but what am I supposed to buy? I don't even know where the problem is.

ok been closely following this thread as i have the very same problem in my bug. check your seal between your air cleaner and carby well (in fact any seal). after readng this thread i went and checked all my seals for a third time and i found that if i exerted a bit more than normal force on the air cleaner it wobbled. It took more than just a light shake to make it move but it did move. I therefore tightened really tight and that did the trick. Moral even if you think its sealing it may not be. Also your carby may have a blockage. 250ml of wynns spit fire poured straight down the carby will clear most gunk, however this will smoke like a biartch and is not recomended for new engines. i was really suprised after i tightened the air cleaner that that did the trick as it must have been just the smallest air leak cos i swear at first inspection this diid not appear loose but after taking only that action i have no problems

i ave a 28 pict and vacuum advance dizzy that i no longer need . both were working fine on the motor i took them off, and i would happily swap for youur 009 as i need one for the new donk im building or if you just want to use to sort shit out no probs. we are in northcote

I took everything of today (with the engine in) Replaced the rings under the manifold and re-sealed everything. Nope still the same shit.

Raf

I think u can get adaptor plates for the manifold to whack on the 34pic u got, ive seen them somewhere? volks performance centre perhaps? The 28 pic carb rebuild kits are easy enuf to come by also as well. Hope u get it sorted soon.
chris

Might have problems with that too. Bigger & higher carby won't clear the KG decklid low profile. What I need is the SP manifold which clears the 12V generator without having to use spacers. I know they exist because I had one before. I used the 28PICT with a 12V generator with no problems with the linkage

Come to think of it, the only thing I haven't replaced is the coil, could it be the problem?

Hey Dean, how did we fix my car - it had the same prob it sounds like.. just changed the carb yeh?

good luck Raf.....

It was the damn coil. I replaced it last night and it idled well for about 10minutes. It was late so I didn't take it for a drive yet.
Raf

:thumb

yahoo!

Drove it to work today. Runs well finally