Hi All,
I am thinking of doing up a 1200 (40hp) to put in my '59. The reason I am going this way instead of the 1600 is due to size (the '59 has a very tight engine bay) What I was thinking of was dual 34ict webers, 1.25:1 ratio rockers, ported heads, decent exhaust.

I have heard of bigger pistons and cylinders for the 40horse that take capacity out to a 1385cc (83mm???) are these stile available? or are they any good? If they are the bizz does anyone have a set the would want to sell?

What I want from this engine is decent power increase over my 36hp (so I can make it up hills) and reliability. I was think of a Judson for the 36 but I do not want to stress it too much without rebuilding the engine.

Please help me out with some advice and helpful comments.

Regards

Ian Bugden

Is it really that hard to put a 1600Dp in an Oval!!

You could put a 356 porsche motor in there if yo want some more go (for your dough of course!) Old Skool Speed....

Steve

Oh! and if your going 1200 40HP, everything is twice as hard to get and costs twice as much.

one thing you could do is trying to get two standard carbs rigged up. perhaps you could modify a pair off a 1500S Type 3?

Cheers

Steve

Dave,
The cutting involved to get the 1500 sp in, is that on the body or on the engine tinware?
How do you go with reaching sparkplugs etc?
Would the 34 ict's fit?

Thanks

Ian

Dont cut the body work. You have to reduce the heaight of the L/H heater box by reduce or making the top section flat.

just get a grinder and slice the top inch or so off and re braze a new bit of flat steel onto it again and paint it with some paint to stop rust.

No problems changing the spark plugs although i have remove all the sound insulation material from the rear and side fire walls.

The Type 3 carbies will fit but you will have to make mainifolds and linkages etc your better off with the single carby mine runs great.

may be wrong but evem ICT's only come with twin port manifolds

I hope you are ive got some on order.:P

ICT's come in single port as well, just a little harder to find.

I thank everyone that has responded thus far it has been a big help!:bounce

humpfh!

yep - just looked at ac.net and there they were

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=FSK0001&c...

to hot ur 1200 weapon up u will need to follow the following step below..
1. place motor in vehicle witch can transport it to its grave.. THE TIP... seriouly a standard 1600 will got better then a hotted up 1200 and it will last long... there is people with 1600 in the early model beetles :thumb bye bye

Stan Pobjoy up at Coffs Harbour was able to source 1380 barrels and psitons for me a year or so ago to rebuild a 1200 for my 63 single cab. Don't know how it will go out on the road as it is so close to the final push out of the workshop. Maybe I will let you know when it does and how it goes. It has a standard carby that has been rejetted and of course it is balanced etc. by Stan.

i have read that using "B" P&C kits (set up with the piston pin closer to the piston crown for 82mm + stroke motors) in shortened standard (or "B" barrels will give you a narrow motor. 1776-1916cc.
another thing to think of, i have heard that pobjoy hillclimb spec 1916 motors need to use 1200 pushrod tubes an 1600 tubes are too long... so you could get HEAPS of power and still fit the motor in a standard early engine bay.

just some thoughts.
henry.

edit the above options would cost more than a dollar od two.
from everything i have read/tried, adding a good exhaust will give you the best added power per cubic $. after that some headwork... 3 angled valve job and then port mods (see the "how to hotrod VW engines", published by HP books for the info on how to mod the ports yourself). after that there were twin carb kits made to suit 36 and 40 hp 1200's using two rejeted standard carbs, complete kits will probably be hard to find but the manifolds are the most important part. much more than this and you will end up spending big $$$.
if you are willing to run J pipes instead of heater boxes and mess around with the tinware a little (ie use an aftermarket rear tin piece or poss a 36hp tin) and poss narrow/trim the cylinder tin you should be able to fit a 69mm stroke motor, 1300-1916 motor into an early car. a thought to keep in mind is some extractors might not clear the rear valence of an early car (i tried to fit thunderbird extractors under my 63 but ended up using a lukey? tuck away system).
to sum up, i had a mild 1776 (very mild cam, stock heads and kadrons) in a 63 beetle (that had bent frame horns that pushed the motor 1/4 to 1/2 an inch to the right) that fitted, inmodified, into the engine bay. the only trick needed was to remove the right rocker cover to get the engine in and out (bent frame horns)(oh taking the fan belt off helped too). it was a tight fit but worked.
pulling the plugs needed a flex coupling and was much much easier with the air cleaners off (removing the balance pipes was good too) and often left me with skinned knuckles but being able to easily run off the 90mph speedo on a standard 1200 g'box even with 4 people and a weeks worth of camping gear made it all worth while.
simply starting with a 1600DP motor isn't a hastle and is probably much cheaper in the long run.
hope all this helps.
henry.

Quote:

Originally posted by whatnow i have read that using "B" P&C kits (set up with the piston pin closer to the piston crown for 82mm + stroke motors) in shortened standard (or "B" barrels will give you a narrow motor. 1776-1916cc. another thing to think of, i have heard that pobjoy hillclimb spec 1916 motors need to use 1200 pushrod tubes an 1600 tubes are too long... so you could get HEAPS of power and still fit the motor in a standard early engine bay. henry.

if you want to talk to people who have built 69 stroke motors with "B" pistons go to http://www.cal-look.com  and to the forum section.
as for the pobjoy bit i was just repeating what i heard around the traps.

henry.

I thought it was a hotting up a 1200 post ????

I will probably end up running a 1600 tp as it seems to be the cheaper and easier option. I most likley would run either the 34mm ict webbers or kadrons, and a nice exhaust.
I will still run the split case gearbox and keep it 6v. This should give me nice acceleration without breaking the gearbox.

Although the idea of doing a 1200 is still appealling, not too many people have done it before and it would still have that nostalgic look and feel about it.

Ian.

heres my take on the whole thing, for what its worth anyways.
vw54 has the right idea, but remember, a 1600 is the same width of a 1500. engine width depens on crank size, and they use the same. however for some reason, 1500's seem to be cheaper. put some 88mm slip ins in it and you got a 1641.
But I can respect someone building a 40 horse too. Im building one myself, and if it were for any other reason than me building an EMPI car, I wouldnt do it. its very costly. My 83mm P&L's were not cheap. And the same goes for my EMPI counterweighted crank. Cams are the same, but on a 40 horse, I would recommend getting the case machined for cam bearings for safety's sake.
It is VERY possible to build a deciently high horsepower 40 horse, but you have to hunt out alot of parts and use every trick available.

You could always hot up the 36hp

That's what I've done, not really cost effective, but something different

Valves are the size of a 1600 (approx), ported heads with matched ported manifolds,compression is 9:1, fully balanced, custom cam, eight dowelled crank, hardened lifters and cam faces, high volume oil pump,pobjoy Anti-surge sump,009 dizzy, twin 28pict carbies, modified standard exhaust. Will rev past 6000, but will crack the crank if you did !! so 5000rpm max limit. The same motor combo was used by a VW racer called Alan Challis (historic class), who raced against old Jag's, Mga's etc and WON the class ! He used a counterweighted 36hp crank which I was going to use , but due to the poor quality of the 36hp crank it was cracked to pieces.

I should have found/used an okrasa.

If you did all this to a 1200 (40hp) using the better quality crank they have, you would have a little ripper

as I said not really cost effective though