editing the whole post because i dont seem to be getting any answers

secondhand twinport heads - are there different types, ID numbers etc. and what do I check for when looking at them.

can the swap to TP heads be done in the car, or do I need to pull the motor to do it? (I understand I will simply be unbolting the old heads and bolting the new ones on, no gaskets etc. on a beetle and then adjusting valves when its back together, any help on changing heads would be great)

type3 twin carbs - do they physically fit into a type 1 engine bay, using standard linkages etc. tuning is not really an issue.

heads, tin, manifold <- thats all I will need to convert to TP heads?

any helpful comments would be great, but if not, I will go for trial end error until I figure VW's out.

PS all these mods are to try and get the engine breathing a bit better, it has alot of lowdown, but runs out of breath at higher RPM

Check the heads carefully for cracks around the valves and plug holes in the combustion chamber if cracked leave them thier.Type 3 twin carby setup leave alone also ,thier is easier ways with less headaches to have better induction,in saying this you would be better of sticking with the single solex to you find out what is done to the motor.

thanks for the advice, so its just the condition for cracks etc, not different types of heads?

as for what done to the motor? not sure, but we had it out and about yesterday on a permit, and at idle, it is a little grumpy, best comparison I can think of is a large extend port rotary, with a smooth but regular camming over, and off the line, it is a rocket, but really strangles at higher revs.

in short, its definitely not standard, but runs out lof breath, hence I am investigating twinport heads and twin carbs. I guess it means I get an adapter plate and throw a 32/36 weber on top for now.

so many type 3 setups there umm what exactly is so bad about them?

added bit: looks like TP heads, along with the single carb manifold to suit, and while they are off, measure up bore and stroke to see what we have.

I did the type 3 carb thang on to a beetle motor . pretty easy.
ad

bump bump bump.

completely reworded the original post, figured it would be a little more friendly than starting another new thread.

bump.

come on these arent hard questions are they?

but I really would like an answer, especially on the heads, are there different types that need to be matched.

PLEASE

secondhand twinport heads - are there different types, ID numbers etc. and what do I check for when looking at them. - should be the same. Check for cracks. Should measure volume as this will affect comp ratio.

can the swap to TP heads be done in the car, or do I need to pull the motor to do it? (- Pull the motor. Getting the exhaust off #1 and 3 would be a head f#$k in car.
I "thought" head studs were different lenghts though??? I "thgought" dp studs were longer.

type3 twin carbs - do they physically fit into a type 1 engine bay, using standard linkages etc. tuning is not really an issue. - shough fit but i think the linkage will clash with the generator/alternator. T3 are really low. Batter measure and check this. Empi - what did you do here???


heads, tin, manifold <- thats all I will need to convert to TP heads? - check studs as stated b4

Barry

muahahaha I stole her ID.

anyways, if the exhaust is the main issue with head swapping in the car, shouldnt be too hard as we have J-pipes on it, I was more worried about room to pull the heads off

where are the ID numbers on the heads?

if the studs are different, I will just grab them with the heads complete

I have already U2U'd empi, he said he modified the type 3 linkages to work in the type 1.,

now thats the type of response I was looking for, single handedly saved our lives well a little money at least.

your better of running type 4 carbs than type 3 as the type 3 linkage runs in between the fan shroud and the firewall and unless your a magicin with very small hands you will get very frustrated very quickly. Personally I would stick to the stock carb unless your going to do a bit off work to the motor.
graham

thanks for some decent info guys,

well like I said, the motor seems to have a little bit of work done to it already, which is why I want to upgrade the carb, and heads.

and the type 3 looked like a nice idea, as its sitting in the wreckers, can pick the best parts of about 3 or 4 sets, and it will cost under $100 for manifolds, carbs and linkages

BTW empi says he reversed the type 3 linkages into a type 1, so maybe that put them in front of the fan shroud?

anyways keep the info coming people, learning a fair bit.

The serial numbers for the heads are under the valve gear covered in crud.:P

You'll need 4 short studs to suit the dual-port heads.

If you can get the heads off without pulling the engine you're a better man than I am (they'll hit the sides of the engine bay before they clear the studs - don't ask how I know this... &^%$#)

I fitted type 3 carbs behind the shroud on a 1 many years ago and I don't remember it being that difficult - I seem to recall I simply swapped the carbs side-to side, I think I drilled a new hole in the shroud for the cable tube, too.

The exhaust fits up exactly the same.

P.S. I have a pair of virtually new type 3 carbs, with manifolds and linkage, for a good price if you need 'em.

70 autostik is the man

so its just the 2 short studs each side I will need?

and thats what I needed to know, they hit the sides of the engine bay I will pull the motor... actually I think we decided to anyways.

I will have to measure up the type 3 carbs, or at least have a really good look to see if I can make it work before committing. so, you have a set of type 3 carbs in good condition?? how much you looking for for the lot??

and thats good about the exhausts, while the engine is out, we way even fit a pair of heater boxes so we can setup the heater again (Danielle works nights, so the heater would be good esp. in winter)

thanks again for all the input, dont be scared to help me out.