I dont know about cleaning the carbon out of the combustion chambers or inlet n exhaust ports I do know that it will blow a hell of a lot of white smoke thats for sure.

The only thing ive found to remove carbon deposites is abrasive blasting or scraping the bigger chunks out with a screw driver.

Where did that quote come from ???

i saw it while searching through the shoptalkforums, and yeh thought it was a bit interesting hehe anyone else done this can confirm or deny?

Ive never herd of it being done .... and i dont think i would try it either.

Is this an old engine you have fitted to the car ???

Did you reset the tappets and give it a oil change ??? including the filter screen.

Just take it easy until it settles in.

i wouldnt have tried it, hehe i will do the tappets and oil and everything tomorrow, ithasnt run for more that 10mins today, ive made sure enuff oil was in it to start.

i also need a feeler guage to set the tappets, but thats no probs,

cant wait to drive!!!!!

When you do the tappets unscrew the adjusting screw all the way out and inspect the mating faces of the valve and screw.

You can polish and re shape the screw, so that its nice n even, this will make sure that you get and even surface for the screw to hit against the valve and not have excessive clearance.

Make sure you set them at 0.006 "

If its an OLD 1200 have a look at the tappet shaft studs. Hopefully they have been modified over the years and you dont have the old shitty one still in there cause they will pull the thread out of the alloy head.

dunno about the carbon, but Muir recomends a quart of diesel down the carb to try to loosen a stuck valve.
you never know till youve had a go!!!!!
(not that i would. snicker, snicker)

i did it once and kept waiting for the fire brigade to turn up. it seemed to run better i was just trying to get a few more km's out of a dyeing engine. i would not try it on a new engine although i cannot see what negative effect it would have.

I have heard of a number of people doing this to give a poorly running engine a good 'cleanout'. They usually say it helps where crap building up inside is causing a problem.
Never had the need, so never tried it myself. I suppose you need to look at what is causing the problem as well.
:thumb

I've done this to a couple of motors,
and it seems to work.
Just be frugal with the fluid down the Carby.
Mine was Diesel into a 2Litre Mazda motor
and I also use Diesel [in the Fuel]
as a UCL in my Bike.
That has some people guessing.
It smells like a Diesel,
It sounds like a Diesel
Is it a Diesel??????

You poured diesel into a GUZZI,im thinking of reporting you to the Motoguzzi Owners Club.

have seen ajax (abrasive powder cleaner) thrown into the intake manifold on diesel to deglaze them. Never tried it but here it reduces the blowby caused by glazing. Some tractor wreckers use this theory.

Have also heard of just adding a little twostroke oil for upper cyclinder lube. Old truckies swear by a cup of petrol in diesel, also a 1/2 cup for upper cylinder lube as suggested.

Buy some REDEX if you can still get it. Pour some down inlet with engine at 2000rpm. works fine

I've done it to a few car engines with water. The idea being that as the water hits the hot internal engine parts it turns to steam and lifts off all the crap. I've never done it to the Manx yet.

I've heard REDEX is actually ATF (auto trans fluid) Hence the first post using ATF.
An old friend of mine squirts ATF in his diesel land rover (only a few years old) and swears by it.
Don't know if it works on aircooled motor and I'm not willing to try....anyone ?

when I was at tradeschool, we got told the same kind of thing, but with brake fluid is good for cleaning out the topend of the motor, so I shouldnt imagine it matters what fluid you use, it will burn on the way thru, ma,king a heap of smoke, but probably taking carbon etc. with it.

BTW. it definitely works with water, I dont know how many people have seen a water cooled car with a blown headgasket, but once the heads off, the leaking cylinder is real easy to find, (if leak is bad enough) as the water/coolant going thru the cylinder cleans it up real good, piston crown and combustion chamber alike.

I've heard about the water trick too... People I've talked to say it works...

Is it actually benificial to use Spitfire (or whatever) every now and then? Or is it just a wank by the chem companies to increase sales? On that note, would a tank of PULP do the same job?

i had a badly hesitating bug that would just die when i put foot down and i used a bottle of spitfire poured down the carby in hope it would clean?
it smoked like a maniac for 5 minutes then ran like a dream from then on. some time later about 6 months or so rings blew dont know if there was a connection:repuke

maybe a bike gets more condensation due to the Temp changes, the tank being more exposed than a cars ???

I have twin 4000lt tanks on my boat, that's a lot of metho

water will assist taking carbon out (air cooled engines should be no different) but if an old worn engine is still running fine then dont do it as the water will create very high compression and can kill it. the auto fluid is used by many mechanics to free sticking valves and help blow out ports but this is normally only done on OHV engines and also increases compression but not as much. it has its benifits and also its drawbacks. another draw back of the atf is that if it leaks out of the carby onto painted surfaces then it can lift paint and police will assume it is a fuel leak...