Any tips about pressing bus CVs onto type3 axles (without a press).
The reco bus CVs seem to be quite tight in the splines, a real interferance fit.
Is this correct?
whats the story with machining the axles to fit the bus CVs? I saw on your build-up page.
They should just slide on . Keep trying .
Have you re welded the Kombi flanges onto the drive axles ???
The old cvs had to be pressed off the axles from the type 3 I got them from,
The Bentley manual shows that new ones should be pressed on too.
I have bus 2 bug stubs.
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on the splines ?
are there burs on the ends ?
did you exchange ones ?
I agree with Craig you need to do some mach work ( if you have not done this )
Count the splines ect may be the wrong units ( BMW )
Have the shafts been loaded on the ends you can see scuff marks were they rub if no free travel ,This happens when mounts that brake ect .
get a file and clean them up !
seagull :o
They should just slip onto the splines as Seagull says check for burrs etc
If they should just slip on, why were the old ones such a trouble to get off?
The Robert Bentley manual, an official VW service manual, clearly shows diagrams of how to remove and install bus CVs with a hydraulic press.
Are you guys fitting old CV's or new ones? Because even on the clean ends they did not just slip on.
The ones I have are german GKN Lobro. My VW mechanic said they might be reco-ed but they look brand new to me.
Also, I'm organizing to have the axles machined at the moment.
All mine have been "tap off" and "tap on" using a rubber mallet !
Never needed to use the press.
They have been second hand/rebuilt, I have never tried new, maybe they are tighter ??
The spline looks to be right but is definitely an interferance fit.
Hope they are the right ones, this is the code on one of them.
GKN52GERMANY7153120198008 138/00
Any ideas if this is right?
Hi
The best way to make them fit is to skim off the rear of the CV where it buts up to the flange on the axle, the flange on the axle is not real thick
so i dont think it the best bit to modify.
I have always just knocke the CVs on with a hyde mallet.
The bentley manual also says to use a press to remove the axle shafts from the trailing arms, I find little resistance with a cooper mallet.
1302Steve
I'm talking about modifing the drive axles :thumb not the stub flanges !
Hi
I was just giving an example of how the Bently book gets a bit carried away.
1302Steve
that's cool, I thought I must have explained myself incorrectly 
Yes the bentley book seems very anal :o
Hi
I bought a Bently manual for my old Audi 200 and in a lot of cases it said use VAG special tool blah blah 123 or something similar, not much use when
your trying to do it yourself at home and not to get stung by a dealer.
1302Steve
Check the inner section of the CV... all the ones i have fitted have a slight leed machined into the spline area.
Are they the right way around, and i also use a alloy drift n knockometer to remove n install does not take much effort to fit them.
I installed brand spanking new Lobro CV's and only required the usual tap.
During normal use the CV hits the circlip on the axle, this makes the circlip hit the back of it's groove, which burrs the splines at the back of
the circlip groove. This makes the old CV's nearly impossible to get off, and the new ones almost impossible to get on.
You need to get a hacksaw blade or triangle file and remove the blurrs from the splines at the back edge of the circlip groove.
And yes the kombi CV's are wider than the beetle ones. So you can either machine the inner CV thinner as Steve suggested, or machine the shoulder
of the axle so it's CV landing is wider. Either will work. I went for the machining the axle as then I can put any CV on, and don't need to
machine the CV before I put it on. Good for if you need to replace it in the middle of nowhere. as for weakening the axle, I haven't seen a
broken axle yet, and quite a few people are using these machined down axles. :thumb
I've now have the axles complete with new CVs ready to go on when I can find the time to do so.:thumb