I have suspended the post.

Please don't start another until the Jim and Brad and the moderators have had a chance to look over the thread and understand what happened.

The thread in question may return.

Andrew


I suspended the thread temporarily whilst cleaning out all the sarcastic crap, insults and personal attacks. I will do so again if it degenerates for the third (or is the forth?) time - so please stick to the topic.

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

so wots the only way to get HP????????????? bearing mind that i support all type1 or type4 engine configurations

Cubic Inch, Turbo Charging or a combination of both

Is it about HP or engine efficiency?

Performance for me, is the ability to create the best HP per engine cc.

If you had a 2300cc engine producing 110hp and a 2000cc engine producing 105hp which is better?? The one with the most overall HP or the best HP/cc?

Personally I would prefer the 2300cc as would have more torque and develop the power at lower rpm. For a street car torque is your friend.

so really its personall preference, people have different driving styles and wot eva egine combo suits their needs is a good one

We are also aware that a particular engine builder prefers 1916s, we are also aware he builds fine engines, but be assured he is NOT the only engine builder that can screw together an engine that will last. I have a 1776 bult by Shimo from Hellbug that is about 13 years old and it still pulls easily to redline, and it has been driven hard all its life.


personal abuse and shit fighting are not acceptable - feel free to debate the topic, but keep th personal stuff out of it. The other party/s have been advised as well.

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

You will also note in my response it is my preference to have the larger capacity engine. I didnt say I was right or that everyone must have the larger capacity engine, just that I would prefer it. You should have worked that out already as you profess to know it all.

ahh i see the post will soon enough be suspended again. i am just about to build a 1916cc but only cause i haven't then money to go bigger. that and i like my gear box. i came on here expecting vw people to be helping other vw people. please guys keep the personal hatred to yourselves. Now. while im typing. can anyone give me a rough estimate of what sorta hp or 1/4 mile times i would be getting out of a 1916cc with twin 40 idfs an engle 120 cam with standard lift rockers, hd valve springs, counterweight crank, heads have had work but dunno how much, 1200 dollars worth so i was told. I know its gonna be hard without the proper info about the heads etc but i just want a ball park figure. also lets just say umm, stock compression, i dunno what its gonna be yet. thanks in advance for any help that you guys can give.

[ Edited on 7/9/2006 by bajaben ]

Haven't you built it yet???!!! Ignore the comments in the above posts...some people appear a weeeee bit touchy...but I'm sure they all love each other...sorta...kinda..maybe not:kiss my "stock" 1916 (oops...hope i don't offend) non counterweighted crank ported 040 heads etc ran 13.6 in my Manx,,,read that it was a streeter and very light. Scared the &hit out of me as you know how rough the end of the strip at the Bohle is..try stopping with 4 wheel drum brakes!!! That was back in 1997 and from what i understand the 1916's these days are better. My stroked donk did 14.6 and fell to bits the year before in the same car..I couldn't comment on the HP output..this varies greatly depending on the overall combo of the donk..just hurry up and build it and see how it goes !!!

[ Edited on 7-9-06 by Mick H ]

lol... sounds like it was fun, Mick!

...

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]

Nothing against 1916s at all, I had one in my '76.

Any engine combo is fine as long as it suits your needs any it makes you happy.

thats very true 1964_notch

yeah not built yet everytime i get time to do it i find that my puppy has stolen a part and either eaten it or burried it hahaha. but yeah, im gonna set this engine up with nothing crazy compression wise because im saving to put probably a small blower on it and i really don't wanna have to change stuff around later. thanks for the help guys. this is more what i expected from the forum, when in need we all end up pulling together.

a well built hipo 1916 can produce around 100-120hp at wheels.

and with injection some say about 140hp.

ah wats a 1916.

yep and bare in mind people that even though one of these nice and powerful 1916's might be costly.

its sometimes vital should you want to compete officially in some events to keep a vw motor i believe and also with this you stay in the under 2 litre class.

VERY important for some motorsport events.

an ej20t would be VERY difficult opponents which you would be pitted against.

1916s aren't costly IMO - there's no expensive aftermarket rods or cranks inside them!!

I've had to delete/edit all the $hit out of this thread - a good point was made in that it is not fair to suspend the whole thread because people actually might learn something from the useful info here......so please keep the insults, and personal crap out it (including the sly sarcastic remarks that you feel may not be directed at one person in particular).

Here is my ultimate street 1915.
This combo would most likely change depending on what the final use is,
but I would drive this on the road no worries.
For specific racing use, I would up the cam and comp and use larger venturies, and shorter rods.

CW crank.
FW about 12lbs(8 dowel).
Clutch around 1700lbs with stock disc and pressure plate located tight in FW.
C95 cam with stock rockers or
V26 Engle with 1.5 rockers.
Stock length rods(I like the scat H-beams or eagles ( good value))
"B" piston kit and shortened barrells
(That way can use short pushrods)
Stock early oil pump.
Crank ground to give 1.5 thou clearance on rods and 2.0 on mains.
Cam bearings oil clearance checked, and ground .25 if oil clearance exceeds .002".
small deep sump.
9.0:1 with .040 deck
Out of the box(porting) CB wedge ports, with spring shims fitted,
but flycut to attain comp reqd(maintaining tight deck).
48IDAs with 37 vents, dowelled manifolds to heads.
Max 1 5/8 merge.
Stock late cooling system.

For racing-only I would use a shorter rod,
but fanshroud to carb clearance and fitting it, is an issue for street use.

Did I miss anything.

Anyone else have a favourite combo that they would like to build or have built?

[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by dangerous ]

Pi 3.1416 not 22/7
=1915.38

http://3.141592653589793238462643383279502884197169399375105820974944592.com/ 

Aluminium case
69mm forged counterweighted crank
fk8 cam
Cb super race rods 5.5" (these are th h beams)
1.4 rockers
94mm b (Stroker) piston and barrell kit
aluminium pushrods
aircooled.net L6 (drd) ported heads with 42x37.5 valves
9.5:1 compression
microtech injection (or something similar) perhaps using injection perfection throttle bodies.

that would be the main parts used for the 1916 i would like to build.

should make good power and hopefully rev to 7500

22/7 is an APPROXIMATE value for pi and equals 3.14285.
The ACTUAL value for pi is 3.14158 etc
So check your maths again.

[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by dangerous ]

sorry astro...dangerous is right...but that is NOT the topic of thread..come on...its just wasting reading space.

That sounds like a good combo, "1916"
Is this something you are currently building or planning?
Have your K8 checked by Surecam in Sydney incase it is one of the ones that has a harmonic issue.
Any particular reason for the long rod? More stroke in your future?

[ Edited on 28-9-2006 by dangerous ]